First RGB Controller

[zvacman]

Hi everyone.  This is my second year doing an animated show but still very much so a newbie.  I am getting into RGB this year and as much as I've read about going all smart I'm doing some dumb this year, because I'm dumb.  I caught a really good deal on two of the CMB24D controllers from a fellow maniac so I bought them, given I already have several dumb RGB strips and some ideas to make them pop!  Anyhow, I still think there are places for all aspects of this hobby.  I was all regular LED lights with LOR AC controllers last year and the feedback was awesome.  I'm going to try and post a photo of the setup that I built tonight, please let me know if I screwed anything up I'd rather find out now than in October.

 

Thanks, Z

[dgrant]

Looks good too me. Just remember that during your testing that it will get warm in the enclosure so you might leave the door open. Now once its deployed outside for the season, you'll be fine up there as its nice and cold outside. Assuming its going outside....if not, heat is the worst enemy of electronics so you might consider a vent but then you need to pay attention to water/snow/ice getting into it if outside.

[sax]

Looks ok.

I have several controllers with this type of configuration....2 LOR dc controllers and 3 of the 9 channel Dmx controllers.

My only concern in your setup is that your control cables will come down and over your power and fuses. Not a big deal unless you gotta replace a fuse....and fight those cables. My setup is with the p/s on top, the controller on bottom....basically rotate your setup 90 degrees.

But, if it doesn't fit that way then you have to place the items the best you can. I use CG 1500 boxes and I am able to get my items oriented that way.

Also, be sure to make allowances for mounting your box.....I use 2 screws in the top of the box...mine are studs mounted, screwed tight and glued in.....then I put wing nuts on the outside of the box to mount. Basically, I don't need to get inside the box to mount it. But be aware of this....the worse thing is finding out in October that you have no way to mount your box because you made the inside look so perfect.....

Another thing to consider is how easy it is to replace the power supply. In 3 years I have lost 1 supply. The last thing I wanted to do was take apart all the connected lights to make the repair...gotta do what you gotta do...but I use L brackets on only 2 sides of my supply. I am able to remove it quickly and replace with the box mounted and lights plugged in. Not that I want to do this but power supplies will break....plan for it from the beginning.

Lastly heating. I was so concerned about this when I first started. I had all my boxes fully closed, max lights on to see if I would overheat/fail. I tested in the summer. Now, I do live in Portland but we do hit the 100s at times. During my testing the power supply did get hot. The fan does turn on. No failures. And I ran these hard. Fan on, door closed does cool the power supply off to the point the fan turns off for awhile then back on. So it is cooling off. Now I don't worry at all. BUT this is with the CG 1500 boxes. It is by no means airtight. I do use the black pieces around the cables but I could hear the air coming out easy enough around it.

But honestly my biggest concern in fall and winter is rain. I must be waterproof. And the water can cool the box I guess....but my point is I can never leave my doors open once mounted.

Good luck

[dgrant]

I was only suggesting he leave the door open during the summer and testing as needed but once it goes outside, it needs to be closed obviously.

[zvacman]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to run my wires down each side if the controller and out through the strain reliefs that I installed along the bottom of the enclosure. I plan on leaving 10 pigtails with waterproof connectors hanging out of the bottom, so if I need to do work on anything there will be enough slack. I didn't post a picture of the back of the box but I did install studs for mounting the box to stands that I make for them. I am glad to hear that heat shouldn't be an issue, commonly the temperature here doesn't go over 30-35 degrees during show time.

Z

[sax]

I was only suggesting he leave the door open during the summer and testing as needed but once it goes outside, it needs to be closed obviously.

Sorry if I made it sound like you suggested keeping the door open once outside. I read it as during summer testing...just like you intended.

BUT....others have stated they leave it open during Halloween since they live in Texas...or California or someplace warm during show season....so I just wanted to point out even in hot summer, Portland hot anyway, that leaving the door closed was ok during my testing.

Sax

[dgrant]

No problem, I wanted to come back and insure other's knew that for running the show at the end of the year, best to have the doors closed! Didn't want anyone thinking we are advertising to leave it open...no way.