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Using LOR to trigger foot pad props

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Do not apologize, we all learn from each other. That's the fun part about this hobby. Learning and sharing.

Glad to see you got one.

Could you provide a better idea of what you got? Model number? Close up pic of the relay?

I think regular spade connectors would work just fine.

Two wires will go to the output of the LOR channel dongle. And two wires will go to the prop, with probably a jumper in there but need to see the relay first.

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Do not apologize, we all learn from each other. That's the fun part about this hobby. Learning and sharing.Glad to see you got one.Could you provide a better idea of what you got? Model number? Close up pic of the relay?I think regular spade connectors would work just fine.Two wires will go to the output of the LOR channel dongle. And two wires will go to the prop, with probably a jumper in there but need to see the relay first.

Thanks! I got the exact one you linked to. I'm trying to post the pic of the wiring diagram, but it won't let me for whatever reason. Says the picture is too big, which I really don't think it is.

I'll work on finding a pic of the diagram online and post it here shortly.

Thanks again!

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Do not apologize, we all learn from each other. That's the fun part about this hobby. Learning and sharing.Glad to see you got one.Could you provide a better idea of what you got? Model number? Close up pic of the relay?I think regular spade connectors would work just fine.Two wires will go to the output of the LOR channel dongle. And two wires will go to the prop, with probably a jumper in there but need to see the relay first.

Can't believe I just thought of asking this, but how do the wires connect to the LOR channel dongle?

Thanks again for the help!

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 I'm trying to post the pic of the wiring diagram, but it won't let me for whatever reason. Says the picture is too big, which I really don't think it is.

The LOR forum only allows so much space for posting pics. I use Photobucket when posting pics. But not a problem. I can see the pic you posted.

 

So here we go. Lets explain a little on what the connections are and do.

 

Terminal Descriptions

COIL- This the is the COIL terminal. These are the terminals where you apply voltage to in order to give power to the coils (which then will close the switch). Polarity does not matter. One side gets positive voltage and the other side gets negative voltage. It doesn't matter which order. Polarity only matters if a diode is used.

 

NO- This is Normally Open switch. This is the terminal where you connect the device that you want the relay to power, when the relay is powered, meaning when the COIL receives sufficient voltage. The device connected to NO will be off when the relay has no power and will turn on when the relay receives power.

NC- This is the Normally Closed Switch. This is the terminal where you connect the device that you want powered when the relay receives no power. The device connected to NC will be on when the relay has no power and will turn off when the relay receives power.

COM- This is the common of the relay. If the relay is powered and the switch is closed, COM and NO have continuity. If the relay isn't powered and the switch is open, COM and NC have continuity. This is the terminal of the relay where you connect the first part of your circuit to.

 

This is the circuit below:

DPDT-relay-diagram.png

 

In the picture below, they are using 12v. You will be using 120 from the controller. NOT 12v. Also, the red/green diodes, motor and fan are just for reference only. The 5v & 9v is also for reference only in the drawing.

 

DPDT-relay-circuit.png

 

Think of the 12v power supply shown above as a channel/dongle from your LOR controller.

Since it is AC, it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal. So connect terminals 7 & 8 from the LOR controller. Be sure no power is applied.

For the prop. You are just wanting to complete the circuit. The two wires that was connected to the foot pad will connect to the COM and NO. It doesn't matter which side because what you have is double pole, which means you can operate two different things with it. 

So NO is what you want. Normally Off. When the coil is powered, it will close the connection of the NO and complete the circuit to the prop.

Your choice of terminals on this relay is either 3 & 5 or 4 & 6 for the prop.

 

BEFORE connecting your prop, go ahead and test the relay connection with a volt meter. Test the NO and Com for continuity when LOR is operating/closing the relay.

 

REMEMBER, YOU ARE DEALING WITH ELECTRICITY. If you are not comfortable with doing this, please get with an electrician that is.

 

I hope I explained it okay for ya.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

 

Tom

Edited by Santas Helper

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Okay, so let's be a little more creative.

 

So you have the relay with double pole. One side is for the prop.

Well what about using the other side, lets say for a light that stays on, maybe shining on something. So when the relay kicks in from the LOR, the light goes off and the prop switches on. This would be a "Flip Flop" effect. One thing goes on while the other goes off. Doing this is easy enough with that same relay. Just connect the wires for the light to the 2 & 6 terminals on the opposite side of the relay on the NC and COM terminals (assuming you used 3 & 5 terminals for the prop). One of the wires to the light would be hooked in series, like a light switch. Which if you think about it, a relay is a switch. So you have two switches at your disposal controlled by the LOR controller. :)

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 I'm trying to post the pic of the wiring diagram, but it won't let me for whatever reason. Says the picture is too big, which I really don't think it is.

The LOR forum only allows so much space for posting pics. I use Photobucket when posting pics. But not a problem. I can see the pic you posted.

 

So here we go. Lets explain a little on what the connections are and do.

 

Terminal Descriptions

COIL- This the is the COIL terminal. These are the terminals where you apply voltage to in order to give power to the coils (which then will close the switch). Polarity does not matter. One side gets positive voltage and the other side gets negative voltage. It doesn't matter which order. Polarity only matters if a diode is used.

 

NO- This is Normally Open switch. This is the terminal where you connect the device that you want the relay to power, when the relay is powered, meaning when the COIL receives sufficient voltage. The device connected to NO will be off when the relay has no power and will turn on when the relay receives power.

NC- This is the Normally Closed Switch. This is the terminal where you connect the device that you want powered when the relay receives no power. The device connected to NC will be on when the relay has no power and will turn off when the relay receives power.

COM- This is the common of the relay. If the relay is powered and the switch is closed, COM and NO have continuity. If the relay isn't powered and the switch is open, COM and NC have continuity. This is the terminal of the relay where you connect the first part of your circuit to.

 

This is the circuit below:

 

In the picture below, they are using 12v. You will be using 120 from the controller. NOT 12v. Also, the red/green diodes, motor and fan are just for reference only. The 5v & 9v is also for reference only in the drawing.

 

 

Think of the 12v power supply shown above as a channel/dongle from your LOR controller.

Since it is AC, it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal. So connect terminals 7 & 8 from the LOR controller. Be sure no power is applied.

For the prop. You are just wanting to complete the circuit. The two wires that was connected to the foot pad will connect to the COM and NO. It doesn't matter which side because what you have is double pole, which means you can operate two different things with it. 

So NO is what you want. Normally Off. When the coil is powered, it will close the connection of the NO and complete the circuit to the prop.

Your choice of terminals on this relay is either 3 & 5 or 4 & 6 for the prop.

 

BEFORE connecting your prop, go ahead and test the relay connection with a volt meter. Test the NO and Com for continuity when LOR is operating/closing the relay.

 

REMEMBER, YOU ARE DEALING WITH ELECTRICITY. If you are not comfortable with doing this, please get with an electrician that is.

 

I hope I explained it okay for ya.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

 

Tom

Thanks Tom! This helps a lot. I'm still not clear, however, on how I go about connecting wire to the female ac plug of the LOR controller. I think I understand where that wire will be running to, and how wire is run from the relay to the prop.

Thanks for your incredibly detailed response. I'm hoping this information will be helpful to more than just me, since this is information I've struggled to find anywhere else online.

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Glad to be of help.

 

First, I can't say enough on safety when dealing with 120 AC power. Make sure power is off and any exposed metal (wire & spade connectors) are insulated or covered with electrical tape.

 

So for the wire. Take some SPT wire, add a male vampire plug. This will plug into the female AC plug of the LOR controller. On the other end of that wire, add an "insulated" spade connector to each of those two wires. Those two wires will slip on the connector prongs for the coil on the relay (terminals 7 & 8). If you don't have SPT wire and vampire plug, use a household extension cord and cut off the female plug end and add those insulated spade connectors to that end.

 

Does this help?

 

Tom

Edited by Santas Helper

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Glad to be of help.

 

First, I can't say enough on safety when dealing with 120 AC power. Make sure power is off and any exposed metal (wire & spade connectors) are insulated or covered with electrical tape.

 

So for the wire. Take some SPT wire, add a male vampire plug. This will plug into the female AC plug. On the other end of that wire, add an "insulated" spade connector to each of those two wires. Those two wires will slip on the connector prongs for the coil on the relay. If you don't have SPT wire and vampire plug, use a household extension cord and cut off the female plug end and add those insulated spade connectors to that end.

 

Does this help?

 

Tom

Yes, now it seems extremely obvious :). Thank you.

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Yes, now it seems extremely obvious :). Thank you.

 

great. let me know if you have any other questions. Better to be safe than sorry.

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 I'm trying to post the pic of the wiring diagram, but it won't let me for whatever reason. Says the picture is too big, which I really don't think it is.

The LOR forum only allows so much space for posting pics. I use Photobucket when posting pics. But not a problem. I can see the pic you posted.

 

So here we go. Lets explain a little on what the connections are and do.

 

Terminal Descriptions

COIL- This the is the COIL terminal. These are the terminals where you apply voltage to in order to give power to the coils (which then will close the switch). Polarity does not matter. One side gets positive voltage and the other side gets negative voltage. It doesn't matter which order. Polarity only matters if a diode is used.

 

NO- This is Normally Open switch. This is the terminal where you connect the device that you want the relay to power, when the relay is powered, meaning when the COIL receives sufficient voltage. The device connected to NO will be off when the relay has no power and will turn on when the relay receives power.

NC- This is the Normally Closed Switch. This is the terminal where you connect the device that you want powered when the relay receives no power. The device connected to NC will be on when the relay has no power and will turn off when the relay receives power.

COM- This is the common of the relay. If the relay is powered and the switch is closed, COM and NO have continuity. If the relay isn't powered and the switch is open, COM and NC have continuity. This is the terminal of the relay where you connect the first part of your circuit to.

 

This is the circuit below:

 

In the picture below, they are using 12v. You will be using 120 from the controller. NOT 12v. Also, the red/green diodes, motor and fan are just for reference only. The 5v & 9v is also for reference only in the drawing.

 

 

Think of the 12v power supply shown above as a channel/dongle from your LOR controller.

Since it is AC, it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal. So connect terminals 7 & 8 from the LOR controller. Be sure no power is applied.

For the prop. You are just wanting to complete the circuit. The two wires that was connected to the foot pad will connect to the COM and NO. It doesn't matter which side because what you have is double pole, which means you can operate two different things with it. 

So NO is what you want. Normally Off. When the coil is powered, it will close the connection of the NO and complete the circuit to the prop.

Your choice of terminals on this relay is either 3 & 5 or 4 & 6 for the prop.

 

BEFORE connecting your prop, go ahead and test the relay connection with a volt meter. Test the NO and Com for continuity when LOR is operating/closing the relay.

 

REMEMBER, YOU ARE DEALING WITH ELECTRICITY. If you are not comfortable with doing this, please get with an electrician that is.

 

I hope I explained it okay for ya.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

 

Tom

So, I got into this, and realized the wire coming coming from the prop (which previously went to the footpad before I cut it) is only a single wire, not two.

If I understand correctly, we were expecting 2 (one would go to pin 4{NO} and one would go to 6 {COM}). Because it's just one, should I run it to NO?

Thanks!

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HELP! Ok, so now I potentially feel like the world's biggest idiot, because I'm afraid I somehow did something catastrophic:

 

I wired it exactly how we talked about, tested everything, applied electrical tape, mounted the relay to a board. And applied power. No smoke or anything :) so I was like "Yay, I didn't burn my house down!" 

 

Just as a matter of course, I decided to test a flood from my #1 input on the 16 channel controller using the hardware utility BEFORE I tried applying any power to the relay, which I had plugged into output #2. The utility picked up the controller just fine. Went to turn on output #2...nothing. Tried a few different lights....nothing. Tested the other 16 outputs....nothing. Tested my CMB24D with my Hardware utility...works just fine. 

 

Unplugged EVERYTHING. Plugged it back in. Same thing. Also, that Unit ID keeps reverting back to 01 every time I take power away from it (I've had it set at 02). 

 

In Summary: The hardware utility sees the controller, but won't activate any of the outputs.

 

Did I fry my LOR1602MP3?!?! PLEASE HELP!! I'm freaking out over here!

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HELP! Ok, so now I potentially feel like the world's biggest idiot, because I'm afraid I somehow did something catastrophic:

 

I wired it exactly how we talked about, tested everything, applied electrical tape, mounted the relay to a board. And applied power. No smoke or anything :) so I was like "Yay, I didn't burn my house down!" 

 

Just as a matter of course, I decided to test a flood from my #1 input on the 16 channel controller using the hardware utility BEFORE I tried applying any power to the relay, which I had plugged into output #2. The utility picked up the controller just fine. Went to turn on output #2...nothing. Tried a few different lights....nothing. Tested the other 16 outputs....nothing. Tested my CMB24D with my Hardware utility...works just fine. 

 

Unplugged EVERYTHING. Plugged it back in. Same thing. Also, that Unit ID keeps reverting back to 01 every time I take power away from it (I've had it set at 02). 

 

In Summary: The hardware utility sees the controller, but won't activate any of the outputs.

 

Did I fry my LOR1602MP3?!?! PLEASE HELP!! I'm freaking out over here!

NO idea what I did, but after working on it for an hour, it all of a sudden worked. Just wanted to get this out before someone spends time writing me a huge troubleshooting scheme.

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Are you sure there isn't two separate wires under one rubber sleeve?


So, I got into this, and realized the wire coming coming from the prop (which previously went to the footpad before I cut it) is only a single wire, not two. If I understand correctly, we were expecting 2 (one would go to pin 4{NO} and one would go to 6 {COM}). Because it's just one, should I run it to NO? Thanks!


Are you sure there isn't two separate wires under one rubber sleeve? Edited by Santas Helper

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Are you sure there isn't two separate wires under one rubber sleeve?So, I got into this, and realized the wire coming coming from the prop (which previously went to the footpad before I cut it) is only a single wire, not two. If I understand correctly, we were expecting 2 (one would go to pin 4{NO} and one would go to 6 {COM}). Because it's just one, should I run it to NO? Thanks!Are you sure there isn't two separate wires under one rubber sleeve?
Positive. I did something that I'm not sure I was supposed to do because I couldn't think of anything else. Since there was only one wire from the prop input, I connect it to both the COM and NO.
So is all good now?
All is good in terms of my controller lighting lights, but all of a sudden my light beam triggers aren't working and the prop hasn't worked at all yet.

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The product says it sound and motion activated. Nothing about a foot switch.


I saw that foot pad you are referring to. Did the prop work with the foot pad?


I don't think those two items are compatible.

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Positive. I did something that I'm not sure I was supposed to do because I couldn't think of anything else. Since there was only one wire from the prop input, I connect it to both the COM and NO.

All is good in terms of my controller lighting lights, but all of a sudden my light beam triggers aren't working and the prop hasn't worked at all yet.

Light beam controller is back up. So, at least I'm back to where I started. Now I just gotta get the zombie working!

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On the foot pad, the white connector, it looks like there are two wires coming out of that white connector. Red and black, I think. Is that correct?

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Okay, I just remembered. I have the "Harvester" from Spirit and it has the same type of foot pad.

Please believe when I say. There are two wires. A red and black wire in the single rubber sleeve. They are very small wires but there are two of them.

Slightly cut the outer black sleeve a little at a time. You will find two small wires.

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Okay, I just remembered. I have the "Harvester" from Spirit and it has the same type of foot pad.

Please believe when I say. There are two wires. A red and black wire in the single rubber sleeve. They are very small wires but there are two of them.

Slightly cut the outer black sleeve a little at a time. You will find two small wires.

Oh my gosh, I NEVER would have caught that unless you had me check again. It's bare copper wire threads wrapped perfectly around a red coated wire. It makes it all look like one because unless you fray the threads, it just looks like one large group of threads.

I'll give this a try...

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