Army Lights Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Hi, I'm wondering if there is a way to trigger my halloween props with an LOR output. I have part of my Halloween show triggered by a light beam, and now I'd like part of that triggered portion to include an animatronic Halloween prop. The Halloween prop is normally triggered by an IR sensor, but it also has an input for a step pad. I'm wondering if it would be possible to buy the foot pad, remove the step portion, and splice the input to an LOR input or something. I'm very unsure about whether or not the voltage would be appropriate. Just wondering if anyone has done something like this. If it matters, I'm using a Spirit Halloween Hanging Zombie as my prop. Thanks! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Most likely the foot pad is just a dry contact switch. If that's the case, you could control a relay with a LOR channel and have the relay simulate the foot pad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army Lights Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Ok thanks. I've heard you guys talking about relays, but I've never actually used one. Is something like this what I should be looking for: SainSmart 4-Channel Relay Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057OC5O8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_eAwlwb04NYZQ9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army Lights Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 Anything on that relay guys? I was hoping to pick one up today. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santas Helper Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) A relay is not really needed. Use the foot pad as a regular push button switch connected to the controller. Since there is no voltage to or from a foot pad, it should be as easy as connecting two wires. Edited October 26, 2015 by Santas Helper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army Lights Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 A relay is not really needed. Use the foot pad as a regular push button switch connected to the controller. Since there is no voltage to or from a foot pad, it should be as easy as connecting two wires. Thanks SH, but I'm actually trying to achieve the opposite. I don't want it footpad-activated. I want it to trip with a IR beam (already set up and triggering a sequence). I need the LOR to initiate the prop, using the foot pad input (ie I'd cut the foot pad off and hook it to the LOR). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santas Helper Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Ah, I think I understand. My bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpageler Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Don't know for sure but might want to research the LOR Input Pup. John Storms...listentoour lights, did a video using it for visitor selections of songs. Seems like there was mention of using other triggers like motion sensors, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santas Helper Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 So you want LOR to act like the foot pad (if I understand right). A relay like this would work. All you want is a simple relay that can handle 120v input, or what ever your output is from LOR. Here is an example. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Potter-Brumfield-KRP-11AG-120-Relay-Base-120V-50-60Hz-Tested-Super-Clean-/301779794914?hash=item46437a3be2:g:Q84AAOxyOalTXuuW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army Lights Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Don't know for sure but might want to research the LOR Input Pup. John Storms...listentoour lights, did a video using it for visitor selections of songs. Seems like there was mention of using other triggers like motion sensors, Thanks mpageler, I've actually ordered the input pup and am awaiting its arrival, but I'm not sure that will help me with this. I think this is more of an OUTPUT issue. Ie how do I translate an LOR output into the input for my prop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army Lights Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 So you want LOR to act like the foot pad (if I understand right). A relay like this would work. All you want is a simple relay that can handle 120v input, or what ever your output is from LOR. Here is an example. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Potter-Brumfield-KRP-11AG-120-Relay-Base-120V-50-60Hz-Tested-Super-Clean-/301779794914?hash=item46437a3be2:g:Q84AAOxyOalTXuuW Awesome! This is the answer I need. Now I'll see if I can find this at RadioShack! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army Lights Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 So, they have this part of it, but I'd need the base part for the inputs. Still looking for that. Any ideas? You guys are being very helpful and patient with me. Thanks!! http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-15a-12vdc-125vac-relay/2750031.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santas Helper Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 I wished they had better specs. Is the coil energized with 12vdc or 125vac? The coil needs to be rated for 120vac if coming from the controller with an output of 120vac.If that's the case then you don't need the base. Just solder the wires to the terminals and maybe use shrink wrap tubing to cover exposed terminal/wires. I would suggest wires with quick disconnect terminals for ease of installing and removing the relay.And very important. Make sure the relay is secured to something. You don't want raw 120v just laying around. I would hot glue it to a board on it's side or something like that. That's just my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santas Helper Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Ok thanks. I've heard you guys talking about relays, but I've never actually used one. Is something like this what I should be looking for: SainSmart 4-Channel Relay Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057OC5O8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_eAwlwb04NYZQ9 I'm going to say no on this. It mentions 5v input. You would fry it with 120v. The output can handle 250vac but this is for the contacts on the other end of the relay. The contacts it is controlling. You want 120vac for the input to the coil to energize the coil to close the relay for the contacts. From there it doesn't matter on voltage because you are just completing a path for continuity to the prop. Like a foot pad or motion sensor does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army Lights Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 I wished they had better specs. Is the coil energized with 12vdc or 125vac? The coil needs to be rated for 120vac if coming from the controller with an output of 120vac. If that's the case then you don't need the base. Just solder the wires to the terminals and maybe use shrink wrap tubing to cover exposed terminal/wires. I would suggest wires with quick disconnect terminals for ease of installing and removing the relay. And very important. Make sure the relay is secured to something. You don't want raw 120v just laying around. I would hot glue it to a board on it's side or something like that. That's just my opinion. Thanks SH! I'll pick it up tomorrow and give it a try. Feel like I'm kind of guessing and checking on some of this stuff, which is fine because I like to tinker, but I guess I thought there would be more people out there doing this. Thought there might be a cookie cutter answer. Guess not!! Thanks a ton. I'll let you know how it goes. PS: Do you think I can get away without soldering? I still don't have a soldering iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santas Helper Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 If purchasing that one, I would read the specs that come with it. Make sure it says something of 120v for the coil. If it says 12v for the coil, you'll instantly fry it.As for not soldering, it looks like you might be able to slip a connector on it but hard to say for sure without having it right in front of me. And please use caution when dealing with electricity. You don't have to fear it, just respect it. Respect what harm can be done if not careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santas Helper Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 The Radio Shack relay you are referring to is 12v coil. Will not work with a regular LOR controller unless you use a 12vdc wal-wart. Look at this linkhttp://www.psrelay.com/images/3F%20CATALOG.pdf Then scroll down to the "Ordering Information". It shows a break down of the GEO series relays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army Lights Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 The Radio Shack relay you are referring to is 12v coil. Will not work with a regular LOR controller unless you use a 12vdc wal-wart. Look at this link http://www.psrelay.com/images/3F%20CATALOG.pdf Then scroll down to the "Ordering Information". It shows a break down of the GEO series relays. Wow, thanks for the research. I'm striking out all over the place. I'd REALLY like to figure this thing out. So frustrating. I wouldn't have guessed that there's really not a product that works for this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santas Helper Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 I'd REALLY like to figure this thing out. So frustrating. I wouldn't have guessed that there's really not a product that works for this! The ebay link I provided earlier would be perfect AND with no soldering. There are lots of options out there for what you want to do. The biggest thing for your application is the right input for the coil of the relay. Then if you were relaying power, then make sure the contacts can handle the load. But that part you aren't worried about to trigger a prop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Army Lights Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Except I can't get it here by Halloween I don't think, but you're right...that should work. I'll grab it and hope it gets here in time...if not, there's always next year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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