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Hi everyone,

 

Basically, here's what I'd like to do. I have a lightning/thunder sequence that will be going on constantly on Halloween, which utilizes the CMB24D and 8x10w RGB Floods. 

 

I then have a separate sequence that I want to run at the front door after trick-or-treaters pass by a motion sensor. 

 

So, here are a few of my questions:

 

1) Can someone point me to a good thread or page that covers step by step how to set up a triggered sequence?

2) Do I need to have the two sequences on separate networks, or can I have my computer connected to my LOR1602MP3, which is then connected to my CMD24D? Ideally, I'd like to have to them all connected, so I only have to use one computer and RS485 adapter (I may have butchered that name, but I'm hoping you know what I mean). 

3) Can someone give me a brief rundown on how to do bullet #2 if it's possible to keep them on the same network?

4) Can I use any standard motion detector I buy at a hardware store, or should I be using the one from the online store. I have no issue with buying the one from the site--it's obviously just more convenient for me to run to HD or Lowes to pick one up. (Please don't get mad at me...I'm not trying to plug other products! I just didn't know if there was anything special about the motion detector LOR sells or if they even care if I use their's!)

 

I think that's all for now! Thank you folks! Always appreciate the support I get here!

 

 

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Hi everyone,

 

Basically, here's what I'd like to do. I have a lightning/thunder sequence that will be going on constantly on Halloween, which utilizes the CMB24D and 8x10w RGB Floods. 

 

I then have a separate sequence that I want to run at the front door after trick-or-treaters pass by a motion sensor. 

 

So, here are a few of my questions:

 

1) Can someone point me to a good thread or page that covers step by step how to set up a triggered sequence?

2) Do I need to have the two sequences on separate networks, or can I have my computer connected to my LOR1602MP3, which is then connected to my CMD24D? Ideally, I'd like to have to them all connected, so I only have to use one computer and RS485 adapter (I may have butchered that name, but I'm hoping you know what I mean). 

3) Can someone give me a brief rundown on how to do bullet #2 if it's possible to keep them on the same network?

4) Can I use any standard motion detector I buy at a hardware store, or should I be using the one from the online store. I have no issue with buying the one from the site--it's obviously just more convenient for me to run to HD or Lowes to pick one up. (Please don't get mad at me...I'm not trying to plug other products! I just didn't know if there was anything special about the motion detector LOR sells or if they even care if I use their's!)

 

I think that's all for now! Thank you folks! Always appreciate the support I get here!

 

 

1)  This is a page I threw together a while back.  http://newburghlights.org/Triggered_show.html

 

2)  No.

 

3)  Yep.  All on the same network.  Computer via USB-485 adapter to first controller to second controller.

 

4)  Any detector that provides a contact closure will work.  I'm using IR light beams as opposed to a PIR detector.

Edited by k6ccc
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1)  This is a page I threw together a while back.  http://newburghlights.org/Triggered_show.html

 

2)  No.

 

3)  Yep.  All on the same network.  Computer via USB-485 adapter to first controller to second controller.

 

4)  Any detector that provides a contact closure will work.  I'm using IR light beams as opposed to a PIR detector.

Awesome! Thank you! Do you recommend a particular IR light beam? Thanks!

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3 Feet should work for me. I just want to use it for someone walking down our front sidewalk. Would you mind telling me what you're using for longer distances though? When I searched for IR Light Barrier on Amazon, the product you linked to was the only one that came up.

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Dang, I also just realized in order to do triggering, I need to have the Advanced software. I only have Basic Plus. That's a nice $70 upgrade. Hey, all in the name of the addiction! 

 

If this is somehow wrong, please let me know, since I think this might be the only function of the Advanced Software I will use.

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Shoot, do I also need to buy an Input Pup? Or can I hook the trigger in somewhere directly to the LOR1602MP3? Please let me know. Thanks!

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By memory, I believe you do need the advanced license to do interactives. As for inputs, if you only need a small number of inputs, your AC controller I think will work for one or maybe two inputs. I can't remember if the 24 port DC controllers can be used for inputs (the 16 port DC controllers that I use can't). I originally used two ServoDogs for inputs, but have replaced those with InputPups.

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Do you enclose this IR Light barrier in a case? How do you weather proof it? Also, would you mind telling me what you use for longer range?

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Sorry, I feel like I'm having a conversation with myself here, but I felt the need provide an update...because I truly have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to these sensors.

 

I went down and bought a PIR sensor at radio shack. The problem is, I have no idea how to wire it to the LOR1602MP3. I found this on LOR's site: http://www.lightorama.com/Documents/UseMotionDetector.pdf , but it's very non-specific, and does not tell me what kind of connectors I should be using. The person at radio shack had no idea either. She recommended I try an Arduino kit, so I bought that with the knowledge that I could return it if it was worthless to me. As of yet, I don't see how this would help me. All the wires have male ends, and it seems I need a wire that connects to 3 male pins on each side.

 

What product would this be? Am I headed down the right road? Thanks!

 

Chris

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Jim, I am curious, why are you using IR as opposed to PIR?

I found much more falsing with IR from snow, back in the days when i first went that route, and PIRs (especially the double trigger Zenith, etc sensors) have been rock solid for me..

 

Chris, simply connect the 2 NO output wires of the PIR into the trigger inputs on your servodog, etc. That will get you going. Just be sure the triggers are set in your software for NO switching..

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Jim, I am curious, why are you using IR as opposed to PIR?

I found much more falsing with IR from snow, back in the days when i first went that route, and PIRs (especially the double trigger Zenith, etc sensors) have been rock solid for me..

 

Chris, simply connect the 2 NO output wires of the PIR into the trigger inputs on your servodog, etc. That will get you going. Just be sure the triggers are set in your software for NO switching..

 

Thanks Greg. I'm a total novice, so can you help break it down just a little bit if you don't mind. When you say servodog, are you referencing the pins shown in this picture  http://www.lightoram...ionDetector.pdf? Also, I'm sure this sounds obvious, but should I just be using female-female jumper cables like the ones shown here:

 

http://www.makershed.com/products/female-to-female-jumper-wires?gclid=CjwKEAjwnf2wBRCf3sOp6oTtnjYSJAANOfheJ84WfloI9hLghj0EwzBpY61w5gWH9bV9C6dPMIi2QBoCJp_w_wcB

 

Lastly, please just confirm for me that there's no issue going directly between the IR detector and the LOR component? 

 

Thanks!!

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Chris, I should have said input pup. That's what happens when you are working on a servodog, and posting at the same time! ;)

You can certainly use other boards with inputs, but many folks are now using the input pup, which allows 8 triggers.

There is no issue going directly from a switched output of another device such as a PIR. Just make sure the output from that device  is a simple NO/NC switch, one that doesn't apply any voltage.

Most don't, but some may. That should be covered in the PIR instructions.

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Chris, I should have said input pup. That's what happens when you are working on a servodog, and posting at the same time! ;)

You can certainly use other boards with inputs, but many folks are now using the input pup, which allows 8 triggers.

There is no issue going directly from a switched output of another device such as a PIR. Just make sure the output from that device  is a simple NO/NC switch, one that doesn't apply any voltage.

Most don't, but some may. That should be covered in the PIR instructions.

Hi, thanks Greg. Just to make sure I understand correctly, if I'm only doing one input, I don't need the PUP, right? What's a NO/NC switch? My best guess is "node open/node closed," but that's a shot in the dark.

Also, I'm still confused about the wiring. As far as I can tell, I need female-female jumper wires, which no one seems to sell in a store. I've ordered them from amazon prime, but can always send them back if that's not what I need. My question is, if those are what I need, how do I cover a distance with those? Can I somehow connect copper or spt wire to them?

Sorry I have so many questions but I've searched high and low on the forums, and I can't find a thread that breaks this process down.

Thanks!

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What's a NO/NC switch? My best guess is "node open/node closed," but that's a shot in the dark. 

 

NO = Normally Open

NC = Normally Closed

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What's a NO/NC switch? My best guess is "node open/node closed," but that's a shot in the dark. 

 

NO = Normally Open

NC = Normally Closed

Ok thanks, guess I wasn't that close :). Any idea on my jumper wire question?

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Guys, I'm so lost. Please help. At this point, I'm thinking I may not get this working at all. Here's what I've got so far:

 

I've connected the RadioShack PIR (http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-passive-infrared-sensor/2760347.html) to the 3 pins covered in the LOR PIR instructions. I did this by hooking female-female jumper wires to the 3 pins on the PIR and the 3 pins on the LOR, then connecting those jumper wires with thermostat wire. In theory, it seems like that should work. Right?

 

I then set up a test sequence in my hardware utility in standalone mode. I changed the input to "Input (norm closed switch)." For a bit, the sequence would run, independent of whether there was anything triggering the PIR. Then, all of a sudden, the Hardware utility would no longer detect the controller. After disconnecting the 3 wires from the heads, it detected it. Re-attaching made it lose the connection again, and so on, so forth. 

 

I feel like I'm dealing with SO many variable issues at this point, I'm hoping someone would be willing to walk me step by step. I'll buy you a beer if you're willing! I REALLY need to have this up and running for my son's birthday party on Saturday.

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Jim, I am curious, why are you using IR as opposed to PIR?

I found much more falsing with IR from snow, back in the days when i first went that route, and PIRs (especially the double trigger Zenith, etc sensors) have been rock solid for me..

 

A light beam has a positive location or line that it will trigger whereas a PIR detects anything in an area.  Since I wanted the trigger to operate specifically when a person walks through a specific location, a beam worked better.  And we don't have snow here.

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Guys, I'm so lost. Please help. At this point, I'm thinking I may not get this working at all. Here's what I've got so far:

 

I've connected the RadioShack PIR (http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-passive-infrared-sensor/2760347.html) to the 3 pins covered in the LOR PIR instructions. I did this by hooking female-female jumper wires to the 3 pins on the PIR and the 3 pins on the LOR, then connecting those jumper wires with thermostat wire. In theory, it seems like that should work. Right?

 

I then set up a test sequence in my hardware utility in standalone mode. I changed the input to "Input (norm closed switch)." For a bit, the sequence would run, independent of whether there was anything triggering the PIR. Then, all of a sudden, the Hardware utility would no longer detect the controller. After disconnecting the 3 wires from the heads, it detected it. Re-attaching made it lose the connection again, and so on, so forth. 

 

I feel like I'm dealing with SO many variable issues at this point, I'm hoping someone would be willing to walk me step by step. I'll buy you a beer if you're willing! I REALLY need to have this up and running for my son's birthday party on Saturday.

 

Off hand it sounds like you don't have something hooked up right.  Input triggers should not have any effect on the ability of the hardware utility to detect the controller.  Before you even try a sequence, use the hardware utility in the input test mode to determine if the controller is seeing switching of the PIR.

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Guys, I'm so lost. Please help. At this point, I'm thinking I may not get this working at all. Here's what I've got so far:

 

I've connected the RadioShack PIR (http://www.radioshack.com/radioshack-passive-infrared-sensor/2760347.html) to the 3 pins covered in the LOR PIR instructions. I did this by hooking female-female jumper wires to the 3 pins on the PIR and the 3 pins on the LOR, then connecting those jumper wires with thermostat wire. In theory, it seems like that should work. Right?

 

I then set up a test sequence in my hardware utility in standalone mode. I changed the input to "Input (norm closed switch)." For a bit, the sequence would run, independent of whether there was anything triggering the PIR. Then, all of a sudden, the Hardware utility would no longer detect the controller. After disconnecting the 3 wires from the heads, it detected it. Re-attaching made it lose the connection again, and so on, so forth. 

 

I feel like I'm dealing with SO many variable issues at this point, I'm hoping someone would be willing to walk me step by step. I'll buy you a beer if you're willing! I REALLY need to have this up and running for my son's birthday party on Saturday.

 

Off hand it sounds like you don't have something hooked up right.  Input triggers should not have any effect on the ability of the hardware utility to detect the controller.  Before you even try a sequence, use the hardware utility in the input test mode to determine if the controller is seeing switching of the PIR.

Thanks! I didn't even know input testing was a feature! So, I'm there:

I started with my wires not being connected at all. The boxes for inputs 2 and 3 are check marked and highlighted green. I then placed all 3 my wires, and the little white box on the right turns from "INPUTS from UNIT 01" to "controller is not responding" highlighted in red. When I remove a wire, it switches back to the original message.

Thoughts?

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You have something wired wrong.  Sounds like the PIR is shorting something other than an input.  What kind of controller are you hooking to and what pins are you hooking to?

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I'm using the pins shown in this diagram (http://www.lightorama.com/Documents/UseMotionDetector.pdf) on my LOR1602MP3. In terms of what I'm hooking to what:

 

GND on the PIR ----> Ground on the diagram

VCC on the PIR ----> +9VDC on the diagram

OUT on the PIR ----> Input pin on the diagram

 

There's a good chance I'm a complete moron and am doing something completely wrong, but as I said at the top, I am a complete novice in the realm of triggering. I really appreciate you spending some time on it. 

 

Is it normal that the Inputs 2 and 3 are triggered without me connecting anything, or is something messed up there as well? 

 

Chris

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Check for a PM from me...

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So, I'm posting this for anyone who eventually has the same problem. Jim and I did some troubleshooting over the phone for quite a while, and I think we've found the solution. First, please don't be dumb like me and trust the LOR diagram that I posted earlier blindly. It was not the same pin configuration as my LOR1602. Simply look at the silk screen on your own board. So, once we found out that my Input1 Cable was actually plugged into another Ground, we were able to isolate the problem to the PIR itself. Long story short, I think it's a crap PIR and I'm going to go with a single beam photoelectric detector.

 

Thanks again, JIM! I'll be out to your show in Glendora SOON!

 

Chris

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