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cmb24d acting up?

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One of my new controllers is firing the wrong color and sometimes not at all only on one channel, ive tried a new light module and it didint help. Anybody know something I can check?

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I am having the EXACT same issue. .mine are on channels 16,17,18. Tried EVERYTHING new strip, new power supply, looked bored completely over thinking there was a solder mishap....so frustrated!!!

Meant board...oops

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Mine was purchased at Summer Sale...just getting around to testing it...would love a solution.

Mine was purchased at Summer Sale...just getting around to testing it...would love a solution.

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Its brand new, also purchased during the summer sale or shorty after (I bought two).

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Yes...I tested in hardware utility...lights a totally different color...also different color in sequence compared to other 7 also shuts off when others on...like one rgb channel is wired wrong.

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Did you use the LOR floods or strips or a different Non-LOR style. Can't always assume the wiring is the same on all strings or strips.

 

This is a long shot but make sure the wiring is correct. I ran into this problem once and assumed it was a bad channel or a bad string. Turned out I had the red and green swapped. It's worth a try

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I hacked my floods from the remote control ones and my window lights are just modules so I did all the wiring on all of it, I have double checked everything is hooked up correctly and as mentioned above I even swapped out the light module and the problem stayed with the channel (1-2-3) on this board. My other board had a flood that would come one white for a second then go to blue but im pretty sure that was a bad light, I havent turned on full white to test since I swapped it.

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ok, I was about to post the same thing..  I have 2 that were bought during the summer sale...  I only have 1 connected up so far and have not tried the other 1 yet..  I have the card connected to 8, 5 meter strips

 

Channels 6, 7, and 8 are acting weird..  I am only pulling about 2 or at most 3 amps per channel about .5 or .8 per R, G, B... the heat sinks are not even warm...

 

everything seems to work fine on twinkle but when I put over 80% power everything goes crazzzy..

 

I have 13.5 volts to the card, triple checked all 24 wires going to each strip...  the voltage never goes below 13.40 volts when powered to 100%  I have 25 foot runs to the strips and they are getting 12 volts at the beginning of the strips...

 

hmmmmmmm,  not sure...

 

this is the first time I am using any LOR and maybe I am not doing something correct....

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Cowboy, you just tipped me off to your problems. Note you said things work fine till you go over 80%. So somewhere you are loading down the voltage that is causing things to go crazy. So far you all are holding your cards close to your chest. Cough up the rest of the story. By this I am asking you all to quit talking like a house wife. What color are you all trying to command and what color are you getting? Just telling us you are getting the wrong color is holding back information that might make sense to us old farts. Did you know that Red needs less voltage than Green or Blue? So maybe you are trying for yellow and all you are seeing is Red? That is also a sign of a low voltage out at the strips.

 

Now if these were smart strips. I would ask you if the ends of the strip are color shifted. I even saw the last quarter of a strip strobe like when it was supposed to be a steady color. Cowboy lots of good info, but please try to explain "Weird.

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so, b y weird I mean, sometimes it works and sometime it does not... when it would "act up" was when I would try to power all three R, G and B for white  I believe it is power, I think its these cheap power supplies not giving 30 amps like they are rated..  I have 120 amps (4 power supplies) 2 seem to be maxed, fan on high and 2 seem like they are not even working, fan barely on....  so, I am taking care of the situation....  I am getting a power supply!!!!!   

 

http://www.powermaxconverters.com/pm412volt.html

PM4-100 PFC

 

It will put out a constant 100 AMPS, 1440 watts at 13.2 volts, if this doesnt work I dont know what will..  I dont think I will need close to that power but I know its a great power supply....  I am going to run 4 or 6  guage wire directly to the CMB24D...  I was trying to go cheap and you always pay when that happens...

 

I found out my channel number 6 is fried, it is getting 13 volts and always on..  I have the option of sending it in and having them fix it or soldering it myself...  they said "you have a bad switching transistor on that channel"  I have done some soldering before but not for years and mostly just soldering wires together...   is there a step by step video of changing out the transistor for a channel?

 

 talk about learning fast, this is my first attempt at this type of lighting and man did I dive into the deep end, feet to the fire.....  :)

 

Once I get the new power supply I will let everyone know what the status is... 

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cowboy casey,

How many amps are you drawing per bank from your CMB24D? The controller is only rated for 4 amps per channel to a maximum of 30 amps per side, which equates to less than 2 amps per channel if using all channels on 1 bank. You made a comment a couple of posts back  "I am only pulling about 2 or at most 3 amps per channel", that is too much draw per bank on the controller. Here is the link to the spec sheet: http://www1.lightorama.com/Documents/CMB24D.pdf

 

Cheers

Daryl B.

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ok, I have been trying to figure this out and I think I have finally wrapped my brain around this...  hopefully it will help other people...

 

I have 5 meter strips, 300 LED's per strip of 5050 RGB pulling about 72 watts per strip...  

on http://www.onlineconversion.com/ohms_law.htm 

 

at 12 volts and 72 watts per strip it pulls 6 amps

 

at 6 amps per strip it would be pulling about 2 amps per channel of RGB on 100% full white...

 

I say pulling 2 to 3 amps per channel because as max-paul said, blue and green can pull more power than red, and you have to add the resistance in from the wire run to the strip that will add milliamps to the channel...  what I don't know is how many milliamps does 25 feet of wire add?? the card can handle 2.5 amps per channel and that would be 60 amps for the card...

 

I don't think I am maxing the card out, the heat sinks are not even warm..  in the specs LOR says the card can handle over 4 amps per channel by installing wafer heat sinks but also says that if all 24 channel's are powered at 4 amps that equals 96 amp's and that is over the 30 amps per side of the board...  basically what they are saying is you can have over 4 amps per channel but not all channel's can be used..

 

I think my problem is power, when the card is powered and I try to raise power to all channel's to get white it is crashing the card...  here is what is in the manual..

http://www1.lightorama.com/Documents/CMB24D_Man_Web.pdf

"Erratic Behavior When Lights Turned On 

The most likely cause is insufficient power. If the 
CMB24D is being powered by the same power 
supply as the lights/loads, turning them on may 
cause a voltage drop and crash the microcomputer."
 
with this new power supply it should take care of the problem, we will see...  in case anyone was wondering, I went with the 100 amp power supply because it was the same price as the 75 amp and the 100 amp has better cooling ability..

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You never stated the power supply, which one re you using?

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I have a big 75w power supply and im only running 6 10w floods (1 per channel) on one board that seems to be working fine.

The other board is running 7 modules, so i cant be anywhere near maxing out the boards or power supply.

Theses are the modules.

20141007_081109_zpscm0khv7n.jpg

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And the best way i can describe mine is that one channel (123)dosnt fire green when mixing a color, but it will light green only.

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Ahhh, sorry..  I am currently running 4 30 AMP 360 watt (so they say) power supplies

 

2 are for the board and 2 are for the extenders, the problem is I am not getting anywhere near 30 amps out of them, i figure I am getting about 20 amps out of each..  they would probably be fine if I had 150 LED's per strip and only pulling 1 amp per channel....

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ENFBXQS

 

Which one were you currently using?

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.

I say pulling 2 to 3 amps per channel because as max-paul said, blue and green can pull more power than red, and you have to add the resistance in from the wire run to the strip that will add milliamps to the channel...  what I don't know is how many milliamps does 25 feet of wire add?? the card can handle 2.5 amps per channel and that would be 60 amps for the card...

 

 

Ok, sorry if that is what you took away from my comment. What I said is that Blue and Green take more voltage to operate properly. And if you have a voltage drop, Blue and Green could drop out or dim more so than Red that needs less voltage to operate. Actually all 3 colors of the strings should all pull the same amount of current no matter what color. Resistors are added into the Red LED string to drop more voltage. Thus all 3 circuits (colors) are attached to the same voltage source. And all 3 will pull the same amount of current. The resistors as I learned many years ago in a electronics course. They are called current limiting resistors. But can also be thought of as a voltage dropping resistor.

 

BTW I have to point out, that electrical terms have a strong impact on a conversation. Power is voltage times current. But you have to understand that power can remain the same but voltage drops and current goes up. Or Power can remain the same but voltage rises while current goes down. This is why I had to clear things up and point out I was talking about voltage in my earlier post. While you misquoted me talking about power.

Edited by Max-Paul

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thanks for correcting me...  I know enough to get into trouble and by no means an electrical guru...  I know my 12 volt stuff on the stereo side but taking it from 120 volt and crossing over is proving difficult for me...  I will get it, its just taking me some time..

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The fact that you are trying to learn this stuff is great. I spent many a year back when I was young studying and trial and error and generally pulling my hair at times. Nothing is free that is worth while learning. Keep at it.

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