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eurbani

Converting CTB16PC from 30A to 15A

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Just checking to make sure that I am doing this correctly:

 

1) Jump the neutrals from one side to the other.  (Seems straight forward.)

2) Jump the hot from Jumper to Jumper.  (Just making sure it is NOT from jumper to input).

3) No need to jump the grounds as the strain relief will transfer the ground from side to side.  (Right?)

 

 

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Actually, the ground wires are pretty much dunsels when they're attached to a plastic enclosure.

Edited by George Simmons

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Actually, the ground wires are pretty much dunsels when they're attached to a plastic enclosure.

 

Is that a Star Trek reference? 

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Actually, the ground wires are pretty much dunsels when they're attached to a plastic enclosure.

But they do bring the ground from the input "dandles" to the output "dangles".

I guess my question is: does the strain relief do that?

And now that I think about it, it is kind of ridiculous since none of my lights have the need for grounded outlets.

Actually, the ground wires are pretty much dunsels when they're attached to a plastic enclosure.

But they do bring the ground from the input "dandles" to the output "dangles".

I guess my question is: does the strain relief do that?

And now that I think about it, it is kind of ridiculous since none of my lights have the need for grounded outlets.

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So the hot goes from "jumper" to "jumper"? I figured it would be better to go from jumper to input so it would use the fuse on that side as well.

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So the hot goes from "jumper" to "jumper"? I figured it would be better to go from jumper to input so it would use the fuse on that side as well.

I thought about that, but I wonder if two fuses in series reduces or increases the protection.

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It shouldnt change the amp rating, I just figure two fuses are better than one.

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Unless the fuses are in parallel there is no significant advantage or disadvantage to having two fuses in series.  In 'theory' they should both blow at the same time.

However, in an ideal world two fuses in theory would compensate for one fuse being slow to blow when it should blow, and vice versa.

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Hell I have seen fuses in a factory setting blow the first one at say 30 amps and the 100 amp back up stream as well.

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You need to install it in a metal cabinet. It dissipates the heat. If you run 30 amps in plastic, it will get too hot, IMO.

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You need to install it in a metal cabinet. It dissipates the heat. If you run 30 amps in plastic, it will get too hot, IMO.

But all ctb16pc are in plastic and rated at 30amp

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Dale - he wants to go FROM 30amp to 15amp!

That settles it. I shall not respond to a post on my phone ...dyslexia kicked in and I reversed the numbers.

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I'm confused. Why in the world are you wanting to downsize a controller?

 

Doing this hobby since 2005 and this is the first.

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I'm confused. Why in the world are you wanting to downsize a controller?

 

Doing this hobby since 2005 and this is the first.

 

Lower electrical needs on the controller, and don't want to deal with the extra cord. (Just a guess.)

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You know, the easiest (and fastest/most reversible way) would be to buy a triple tap.  Sure, you still have that extra cord hanging out, but you won't have to do any crimping/wiring, and a quick unplug and it's back to 30A.

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Mike,

I use those triple taps on all my controllers anyways. Saves on outlet strips when you have 6 controllers to plug in.

 

Maybe the OP will give us a clue as to why he's trying to reverse amps/power because I'm sure not seeing it.

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I converted all my controllers to single input because im all led and wont be anywhere near 30 amps. So now instead of having to have 10 outlets in the front yard I only need 5.

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I converted all my controllers to single input because im all led and wont be anywhere near 30 amps. So now instead of having to have 10 outlets in the front yard I only need 5.

I've done it to all my controllers that are for arches, candy canes, and snowflake trails. No need to have them double corded and imho, me being me it was just better to convert them.

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You know, the easiest (and fastest/most reversible way) would be to buy a triple tap.  Sure, you still have that extra cord hanging out, but you won't have to do any crimping/wiring, and a quick unplug and it's back to 30A.

 

I will have 37 controllers in the show this year.  I have bunches of triple taps and power strips, but since I will be 90% LED, I just don't see the need for any 30 Amp controllers.

 

Mike,

I use those triple taps on all my controllers anyways. Saves on outlet strips when you have 6 controllers to plug in.

 

Maybe the OP will give us a clue as to why he's trying to reverse amps/power because I'm sure not seeing it.

 

I run my display off 6 outlets.  37 - 30 AMP controllers would need 74 outlets (best case, I would need about 34 triple taps).

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I run my display off 6 outlets.  37 - 30 AMP controllers would need 74 outlets (best case, I would need about 34 triple taps).

I too run LEDs, 99%.

I run my entire display off two outlets on one circuit. Since I run LEDs, I know I won't need 30 amps per controller but for myself, I just plug them in and run them on triple taps.

So you are just wanting to run one cord for all channels on each controller? If that's the case, I didn't know. So I see your reason.

For my self, I keep both of mine because I am now running LEDs floods which require a little more power on some controllers but not all. If anything, I can swap out any controller (because of failure) with the LEDs needing more power and not worry about which controller I choose to replace with. IMHO it's better to have an over powered (factory made) controller to swap with instead of limiting that controller to just that set-up. But that is just me.

Tom

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