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LOR Software Update

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This past season was my first year using Light O Rama.  I am running an older version of S3 and see that there are a few newer versions available.  How do I update to the latest one?  There are a few newer versions in front of the one I am currently running.   

 

Thanks

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Yes, I understand this.  But, do I just run the installer and the newer version installs over the old version?  Will I loose my LOR files?

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While having a backup of the files is always a good idea I've never made a copy of them before upgrading. You need only run the installer, and it will take care of everything for you. 

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I would suggest you track which firmware version you have (controllers/CCR/etc) and update it IF needed before your display season.

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Me personally with the firmware, I go with the old saying " if it ain't broke don't fix it" lol. If I test and they are work appropriately then I don't update... CCD's might require it but I haven't ran into issues with the ac controllers

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Even if you weren't upgrading you should still back up your sequences.

Use Dropbox email via Hotmail or ???

I use Dropbox to backup everything.

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Even if you weren't upgrading you should still back up your sequences.

Use Dropbox email via Hotmail or ???

I use Dropbox to backup everything.

Agreed! Though i still need to setup a dropbox for LOR sequences. While we are talking about dropbox, is it possible to have 2 Dropbox Accounts synced to one pc at the same time? Haven't tried it yet but just thought i would ask to see if anyone else has done it.

Edited by cgreenfield

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Another backup solution is a company like iDrive, Carbonite or the like to backup your entire computer (which you should be doing anyways).

 

-Gary-

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Yes I have been backing up my sequences as well as my computer!  

 

cgreenfield-great question.  Does anybody know the answer?  I would like to do this as well!!

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Yes I have been backing up my sequences as well as my computer!  

 

cgreenfield-great question.  Does anybody know the answer?  I would like to do this as well!!

 

The DropBox client doesn't have any settings (that I've seen) to allow two accounts to be signed in at once.

 

Changing the log-in information would probably cause sync problems between the two accounts and your computer.

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I have searched a bit and have found out the following

 

"Can I have two Dropbox accounts on the same computer or device?"

 

"If you're a Dropbox for Business user, yes! You can have both a personal Dropbox and a work Dropbox on your computer, devices, and the web."

Source: https://www.dropbox.com/help/61/en

 

 

So unless you are a "Dropbox for Buissness user", there is no way of doing it that is supported by dropbox.

 

However.... you can Do something like this....

http://www.dropboxwiki.com/forums-faq/running-multiple-instances-of-dropbox

(Note: I have not tried this yet)

 

-Chris-

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Just a quick note to everyone using Dropbox for backup...

I was hit with a ransom-ware type malware called cryptorbit back in February. It scrambled the first 512 kbytes of each and every file on my hard drive and anything that I had mapped from my PC. Including drop box.

I believe I received the virus from google play page but who knows. It was the only page I had been to on that PC in that timeframe. But the malware could of been hidden and waiting.

Point is, I had several of my backup drives mapped to that PC and lost everything. Luckily my show PC was not connected so I had those files safe. Now I have a thumb drive and burn to a DVD for my backups. I did lose all my superstar sequences and anything that was in work and not on the show PC.

Please, make your backups somewhere that is safe from all hazards.

Good news though is that a fix for this malware is super close. So hopefully I will be able to get my data back. But I know that there will always be a meaner and badder virus or malware created down the line. So please backup accordingly.

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Just a quick note to everyone using Dropbox for backup...

I was hit with a ransom-ware type malware called cryptorbit back in February. It scrambled the first 512 kbytes of each and every file on my hard drive and anything that I had mapped from my PC. Including drop box.

I believe I received the virus from google play page but who knows. It was the only page I had been to on that PC in that timeframe. But the malware could of been hidden and waiting.

Point is, I had several of my backup drives mapped to that PC and lost everything. Luckily my show PC was not connected so I had those files safe. Now I have a thumb drive and burn to a DVD for my backups. I did lose all my superstar sequences and anything that was in work and not on the show PC.

Please, make your backups somewhere that is safe from all hazards.

Good news though is that a fix for this malware is super close. So hopefully I will be able to get my data back. But I know that there will always be a meaner and badder virus or malware created down the line. So please backup accordingly.

I use Dropbox keep the show computer in sync.    I use crashplan for backup, because it keeps multiple versions of your files.  I have the lor directory to backup locally with lots of versions but only for 15 days, and then off disk (another local computer as well as crashplan's cloud) at a lower versioning rate but keeping them much longer.  In your senario the off disk files would have been available and un corrupted.  The version time stamps would also be able to point me to when the malware started doing it's dirty work. providing my restore point. :)  

I do not work for crashplan. :)

 

good to hear that there's a fix coming that will unscramble your files.

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Just to be clear, the restore point you point to using windows, it was erased. All restore points were. So I could not roll my PC back to a previous day when everything was working. So unless you had a hard copy of your files somewhere, all the changes on the hard drives were permanent. And since to Dropbox it looked like a normal file change from me it just went ahead and did it.

And I know the exact time and day it happened. Every file on my PC has that date as the date the file was created. The virus that caused it self deletes and to this day no one has the actual file that creates the malware.

The maker of the malware gives you a code that is included in every directory on your PC and you go to their web page and pay by bit coin to get a key to unlock the files. Of course, you only have a few days to do this or the key is lost forever. For me the "ransom" was $500. I said no way and get to deal with the loss of several files.

For information on this malware, google cryptorbit. I was lucky to have v1 which is just 512k. Harder versions are now out there.

Edited by sax

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Just to be clear, the restore point you point to using windows, it was erased. All restore points were. So I could not roll my PC back to a previous day when everything was working. So unless you had a hard copy of your files somewhere, all the changes on the hard drives were permanent. And since to Dropbox it looked like a normal file change from me it just went ahead and did it.

And I know the exact time and day it happened. Every file on my PC has that date as the date the file was created. The virus that caused it self deletes and to this day no one has the actual file that creates the malware.

The maker of the malware gives you a code that is included in every directory on your PC and you go to their web page and pay by bit coin to get a key to unlock the files. Of course, you only have a few days to do this or the key is lost forever. For me the "ransom" was $500. I said no way and get to deal with the loss of several files.

For information on this malware, google cryptorbit. I was lucky to have v1 which is just 512k. Harder versions are now out there.

Yuck.

 

The restore pont for me was not a windows restore point, but a date to use as a point in time to restore the files from the CrashPlan backup.

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Just to be clear, the restore point you point to using windows, it was erased. All restore points were. So I could not roll my PC back to a previous day when everything was working. So unless you had a hard copy of your files somewhere, all the changes on the hard drives were permanent. And since to Dropbox it looked like a normal file change from me it just went ahead and did it.

And I know the exact time and day it happened. Every file on my PC has that date as the date the file was created. The virus that caused it self deletes and to this day no one has the actual file that creates the malware.

The maker of the malware gives you a code that is included in every directory on your PC and you go to their web page and pay by bit coin to get a key to unlock the files. Of course, you only have a few days to do this or the key is lost forever. For me the "ransom" was $500. I said no way and get to deal with the loss of several files.

For information on this malware, google cryptorbit. I was lucky to have v1 which is just 512k. Harder versions are now out there.

Even if you had paid there is no guarantee you would be able to decrypt the files.

Glad to hear you didn't pay.

Sucks having to fix it.

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Just to be clear, the restore point you point to using windows, it was erased. All restore points were. So I could not roll my PC back to a previous day when everything was working. So unless you had a hard copy of your files somewhere, all the changes on the hard drives were permanent. And since to Dropbox it looked like a normal file change from me it just went ahead and did it.

And I know the exact time and day it happened. Every file on my PC has that date as the date the file was created. The virus that caused it self deletes and to this day no one has the actual file that creates the malware.

The maker of the malware gives you a code that is included in every directory on your PC and you go to their web page and pay by bit coin to get a key to unlock the files. Of course, you only have a few days to do this or the key is lost forever. For me the "ransom" was $500. I said no way and get to deal with the loss of several files.

For information on this malware, google cryptorbit. I was lucky to have v1 which is just 512k. Harder versions are now out there.

 

I often use a large SD card for my backups and flip the Write-Protect switch on the edge. Makes it read-only.

 

There's some flash drives with this option, but they are rare.

 

FYI

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