RGB How To's

[dragonfire10]

that is a good price for 8 of them. And the ones that you bought was basically the same?  Where the IR cable came out.  But you hacked yours so LOR can change the colors with the controller box correct.  And the pics in your photobucket shows how?

[Santas Helper]

that is a good price for 8 of them. And the ones that you bought was basically the same?  Where the IR cable came out.  But you hacked yours so LOR can change the colors with the controller box correct.  And the pics in your photobucket shows how?

 

Yes, the ones I purchased where pretty much the same. And yes, the LOR controller controls the hacked floods. And for the most part, my photobucket shows pics of the hacking. But if you need any assistance, just let me know.

I have 20 more on the way and will be hacking them soon. If I recall, it took about 10 to 15 minutes to hack each flood.

[Eric walls]

Okay so I've been following this post and have a few questions so please excuse me for butting in.  I just got my dumb ribbons, power supply and DC card. Hooked them up.

Wow that ribbon is bright!  I saw that you can set that to 80% white and then you can change it to full on for when you want it really bright?

Also I did notice the colors in the color fade tool don't exactly match up as people have said. I used the hardware utility and there was a "console" button that allowed you to slide each channel up and down until you get the desired color. I found a nice dark orange I'd like to use and made a note of the number under each channel.

My question is how to I get that color into the sequence editor for my sequence? I wish there was a way to save that color and then every time I wanted it I could just add it in. 

Aslo does everyone just use the cableguard 1500 enclosure for both the card and power supply?

[Vince4xmas]

Use the color fade tool and save as custom color.

[Eric walls]

How do I get the same number intensity that I did in the hardware utility? Sorry this is my first year.

[Vince4xmas]

When you have color fade tool open, select "choose" and enter RGB values, then add to custom colors.

[Jeff Juneman]

I just started looking further into LED floods for Halloween 2014 and saw that they were out of stock in the LOR store. So, I bought 2 RGB controllers and decided to hack a few floods myself. here are some pictures of the ones I bought:

 

I'll show pictures of the inside in next post.  I wanted to try to fully document this so others can follow along.

[Jeff Juneman]

I was able to get these for $15 a piece, including tax & shipping. Here is what I found inside my RGB floods:

 

Disassembled - All parts included with the flood light: 

Edited May 18, 2014 by Jeff Juneman

[Jeff Juneman]

What I found out was that the LED driver inside the back panel had a 110v AC input and the output was +12v common and individual Red, Green & Blue -12v . Since the LOR RGB controller looks like it is set up to control the "+" side by varying the positive voltage, the way these floods are set up will require major soldering to rewire them to a common "-" and individual "+" for each color. Here is how the wires are soldered to the LED inside the lamp:

 

[Jeff Juneman]

Sorry for the multiple posts...

 

I was also reading that resistors should be used on certain colors to help limit the current so as not to burn out the LED.  I tried hooking up the "+" common wire and then tested the individual "-" leads with the negative current and all worked just fine. I used a variable power supply, borrowed from a friend, and tested between 5 & 8 volts.  Some colors do burn brighter than others so I guess this is where the resistors come in to play.  If I will be using a 12v power supply, what size resistor should I be using on each color?

 

Any help with this is appreciated.

 

Once I complete the first few floods, I will post some more pictures for all to see.

[Santas Helper]

Jeff,

 

Go to this link.

http://forums.lightorama.com/index.php?/topic/26405-10w-rgb-flood-light-reverse-engineering/

 

On page three, thread #73 has good info. Actually, the whole thread does so I would read thru it all. Good stuff!!!

[Santas Helper]

What I found out was that the LED driver inside the back panel had a 110v AC input and the output was +12v common and individual Red, Green & Blue -12v . Since the LOR RGB controller looks like it is set up to control the "+" side by varying the positive voltage, the way these floods are set up will require major soldering to rewire them to a common "-" and individual "+" for each color. Here is how the wires are soldered to the LED inside the lamp:

 

And just to add, I didn't resolder any of the LEDs. 30 floods working perfectly fine.

[Jeff Juneman]

Thanks for the response! Great info and just what I needed to proceed.

 

So, I went back and looked at the controller board again and I see that it appears to have a common "+" and it regulates the "-" values for each of the colors.  This is big news in that it means I don't have to re-solder everything on the LED itself. This, along with them being the type "C" floods that you mentioned, will cut down the time it takes to modify each flood.  I will try to use the 18ohm resister on red LEDs and dial down the voltage to 11v and see how that works.

 

Here is a link to the pictures I have taken so far: 

http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/jjuneman/library/Halloween/RGB%20Floods

 

I should have some of these floods modified and tested by this weekend and will post some more pictures. So far, I have 2 boards and 16 floods to build.

 

Thanks again !

[LarryDrumAZ]

When you are building a rgb flood in visualizer is the 1st RGB device Circuit 1 for red, 2 for green 3 for blue? Or do you use just circuit 1 for all 3 colors on the same device?

 

In the Visualizer, you load your *.lcc file from the sequence editor.  The when you draw a "flood light", in the dialog box you select "RGB" and then select the 1st / RED channel you want to assign to that fixture.  The Visualizer will automatically map the other 2 Green and Blue channels to that fixture.