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What I found out was that the LED driver inside the back panel had a 110v AC input and the output was +12v common and individual Red, Green & Blue -12v . Since the LOR RGB controller looks like it is set up to control the "+" side by varying the positive voltage, the way these floods are set up will require major soldering to rewire them to a common "-" and individual "+" for each color. Here is how the wires are soldered to the LED inside the lamp:


And just to add, I didn't resolder any of the LEDs. 30 floods working perfectly fine.

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Thanks for the response! Great info and just what I needed to proceed.


So, I went back and looked at the controller board again and I see that it appears to have a common "+" and it regulates the "-" values for each of the colors.  This is big news in that it means I don't have to re-solder everything on the LED itself. This, along with them being the type "C" floods that you mentioned, will cut down the time it takes to modify each flood.  I will try to use the 18ohm resister on red LEDs and dial down the voltage to 11v and see how that works.


Here is a link to the pictures I have taken so far: 



I should have some of these floods modified and tested by this weekend and will post some more pictures. So far, I have 2 boards and 16 floods to build.


Thanks again !

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When you are building a rgb flood in visualizer is the 1st RGB device Circuit 1 for red, 2 for green 3 for blue? Or do you use just circuit 1 for all 3 colors on the same device?


In the Visualizer, you load your *.lcc file from the sequence editor.  The when you draw a "flood light", in the dialog box you select "RGB" and then select the 1st / RED channel you want to assign to that fixture.  The Visualizer will automatically map the other 2 Green and Blue channels to that fixture.

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