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Dave H1

10w RGB Flood Light - Reverse Engineering

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Here's my dilema guys.  Right now I can find only one vendor that has 20W RGB leds I want, but they still haven't replied to my questions from Sunday.  I could continue to use individual colors in a single housing, this allows control from DMX or LOR using 12V.  I could switch to the new style leds and get a 24V power supply, but this eliminates using DMX, with LOR, not a problem, or run the LOR controller in DMX mode.

 

Let me put this in another way,  If I were to make floods to sell and you were to buy,  which version would you be interested in:

 

1) RGBW using 10w individual colors.  Runs on 12V DMX or LOR using 4 channels.  Also the brightest option and slightly the most expensive one.

2) Same as above minus the W.  Advantage would using a single 3 channel DMX controller.  Disadvantage, not a great white and not consistant at various intensities.

3) 20W RGB with additional white led.  Needs a 24V power supply and LOR DC controller.  Needs 4 channels.

4) Same as #3 without the white.  This option allows me to make a smaller housing.  This option would be the cheapest.

 

Cost difference between 1 and 4 is only a few bucks so it's not a deciding factor, it's more of how you want to control and power them.  There's also another option, 20W individual leds can also run on 12V if you need extra horsepower.

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Jim,

I guess for me it would boil down to how big a difference is the 10W to the 20W. If not that big of a difference, I would like to stick to 12V. So far, I'm seeing the 10W for 12V being easier to apply with the rest of my 12V stuff and not affecting any LOR functions or other 12V products I use with the same DC controller.

So I'm not sure without "seeing" a difference.

As for the clarity of white being a forth color, I have off white brick so three LEDs (RGB) is prefered to save a channel for something else. All this IMHO.

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I decided to stick with my original design of using four 10w leds of RGBW and reordered what I need.  No real advantage for me to switch to the 20W RGB led because I want the seperate white.  I have to use the same aluminum roller which kinda sucks because I only have one machine for a source.  I may have another possible source, but may require a bribe.  If I make just RGB lightheads, I can use smaller rollers which I have more sources.

 

I discovered you can get a 500W led that puts out a screamin brite 50,000 lumens!  No price posted with the evil creature though.  I also just ordered 20,  10w WW leds for my flowerbeds.  My poor neighbors are in for a surprise! 

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Jim,

 

you may have stated it before, but is there a reason why you aren't using 10w RGB leds in lieu of the individuals??

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Jim,

 

you may have stated it before, but is there a reason why you aren't using 10w RGB leds in lieu of the individuals??

A 10w single color has 9 leds in it.  A 10w RGB led has only three of each color.  A 30w RGB led would be the aquivelent of what I'm using, plus needs a 36V power supply which may not be so bad, could run 50-100W leds!

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I only skimmed this thread but why bother hacking the floods with remotes when Ray has an almost identical one that is DMX-ready for about the same price ($24)?  Yes there is also shipping, but if you order more than a few things the shipping price is MUCH lower than quoted by aliexpress.

I am waiting on 4 of them for a non-Christmas-related fountain project.

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I only skimmed this thread but why bother hacking the floods with remotes when Ray has an almost identical one that is DMX-ready for about the same price ($24)?  Yes there is also shipping, but if you order more than a few things the shipping price is MUCH lower than quoted by aliexpress.

I am waiting on 4 of them for a non-Christmas-related fountain project.

If you ordered the 10W version, I'm betting you're going to be disappointed if you're trying to flood a house.

 

This is what I would highly recommend if you want to order from Ray.  This would have the same output as I do with probably no color seperation where an object casts a shadow.  Don't just buy one,  the shipping sucks.

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/30W-RGB-DMX-flood-light-DC24V-input-can-be-controlled-by-dmx-controller-directly/701799_577673325.html

 

Thanks Tim for your post.  I wasn't aware there were DMX versions of these floods.  I don't buy from Ray.  I like Ebay a lot better, but they don't have DMX versions on Ebay.  I also wouldn't be able to build to sell for that price.  I might try to see if I can get the controller used in the flood, it definately won't be the ones that Holidaycoro sells.

Edited by scubado

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I won't be using them to flood the house, I'm using them for a fountain project for the summer season.

On the other hand, I've played with them and they are comparable, if not brighter than other floods people use, such as Rainbow Floods and the vFlood.

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Tim,

My reason is because I'm not using DMX. $20 per LED flood with free shipping can't be beat.

And I've compared these RGB LED floods to the Rainbow Floods and the Rainbow floods can't match the 10W floods.

AND, the price on the 10W LED floods beat the Rainbow Floods as well.

I'm just speaking for myself on my reason here and my comparison.

 

Just curious, how much lower is the shipping with Ray with multiple items? Because $25 or more on shipping per item keeps me from ordering from him. If he had an online calculator that would show what shipping of multiple items would be without haggling for it, then at least I could see what the shipping is prior to ordering. But free shipping is hard to beat when your on a budget.

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om, The 10W ones you won't have a problem using LOR and a 12V power source, just be sure to use the proper resistor for each color. The 20w and 30w require different power supplies. If the 10w RGB flood is brighter than Rainbows, that's not saying much for them. The 10W RGB will give you good subtle color, the 30w RGB will definately light things up! You can always turn down a 30W, but you can't crank up a 10W rgb.

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Tim,

My reason is because I'm not using DMX. $20 per LED flood with free shipping can't be beat.

And I've compared these RGB LED floods to the Rainbow Floods and the Rainbow floods can't match the 10W floods.

AND, the price on the 10W LED floods beat the Rainbow Floods as well.

I'm just speaking for myself on my reason here and my comparison.

 

Just curious, how much lower is the shipping with Ray with multiple items? Because $25 or more on shipping per item keeps me from ordering from him. If he had an online calculator that would show what shipping of multiple items would be without haggling for it, then at least I could see what the shipping is prior to ordering. But free shipping is hard to beat when your on a budget.

I agree with you, there really isn't any comparison between the RBs and the 12V floods from Ray.  I was trying to remain ambiguous to be kind ;)

As for the shipping discount - it's pretty dramatic.  You can probably order 4 floods for maybe $10 more shipping than one.  To be sure, just drop him a note on Ali, he will get back to you within a day or so.

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I agree with you, there really isn't any comparison between the RBs and the 12V floods from Ray.  I was trying to remain ambiguous to be kind ;)

As for the shipping discount - it's pretty dramatic.  You can probably order 4 floods for maybe $10 more shipping than one.  To be sure, just drop him a note on Ali, he will get back to you within a day or so.

Thanks Tim,

 

As for the comparison, I don't mean to slam the Rainbow floods as I have dozens of them, but in the world of technology, you gotta keep up with the new stuff out there. And man is it hard to keep up with new products coming out now days.

 

As for Ray,

I might check that out. I learn new stuff every day, which is one reason I'm here.

Edited by Santas Helper

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Thanks Tim,

 

As for the comparison, I don't mean to slam the Rainbow floods as I have dozens of them, but in the world of technology, you gotta keep up with the new stuff out there. And man is it hard to keep up with new products coming out now days.

 

As for Ray,

I might check that out. I learn new stuff every day, which is one reason I'm here.

Thats what's fustrating about the fast paced technology.  You find a new bright led, design a fixture to make use of it, get it UL approved, make lots of them and then it's obsolete before you can sell them.  Household led lighting and flashlights are way behind in technology.

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Thats what's fustrating about the fast paced technology.  You find a new bright led, design a fixture to make use of it, get it UL approved, make lots of them and then it's obsolete before you can sell them.  Household led lighting and flashlights are way behind in technology.

 

Isn't that the truth!!!

 

Although I have a 10W flashlight (Stanely FATMAX) that kicks some serious flashlight butt. :D

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it definately won't be the ones that Holidaycoro sells.

 

 

Jim, care to enlighten me as to why?  I have been considering this for floods on my house this year as it seemed the easiest way to get there.

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Thanks Tim for your post.  I wasn't aware there were DMX versions of these floods.  I don't buy from Ray.  I like Ebay a lot better, but they don't have DMX versions on Ebay.  I also wouldn't be able to build to sell for that price.  I might try to see if I can get the controller used in the flood, it definately won't be the ones that Holidaycoro sells.

 

Jim -

 

I just noticed this reference to our controllers and would like to know if there is any issue we can remedy or provide more information on.  We want all of our customers to be 100% happy with their products and it doesn't sound like that is the case with your purchase.  Please feel free to respond here or to our private support ticket request.

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Jim, care to enlighten me as to why?  I have been considering this for floods on my house this year as it seemed the easiest way to get there.

 

Paul -

 

We reached out to Jim four days ago but did not hear back.  We would like you and everyone else to know that we take all issues of quality or functionality seriously.  We expend more man hours in supporting our customers and their solutions/projects than we do for any other single process including marketing or order processing.  We always try to keep the lines of communcation open through our feeback system, review system, support email and phone line  - should any customer ever have an issue with our products, all we ask is that we are given a shot to resolve your problem and keep you as a happy customer.

 

Thanks,

David

HolidayCoro.com

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Hi David,

 

I never heard from him either, so I don't know what the issue was. 

 

I just placed an order for your equipment and built them here in the last couple of days.  I want to get these outside and installed to see what they look like at night.  So far, the only issue I've had was the DMX programmer wasn't very straight fwd, but I was able to setup my second flood.

 

So, no problems that I am aware of.

Thanks!
Paul

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Hi David,

 

I never heard from him either, so I don't know what the issue was. 

 

I just placed an order for your equipment and built them here in the last couple of days.  I want to get these outside and installed to see what they look like at night.  So far, the only issue I've had was the DMX programmer wasn't very straight fwd, but I was able to setup my second flood.

 

So, no problems that I am aware of.

Thanks!

Paul

 

Paul -

 

Thanks for the feedback.  Can you tell me what issues on the DMX programmer we could improve to make it easier to program the controllers?

 

Thanks,

David

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I found I had to use the change button instead of the write button.  I had originally tried to enter a new address and just write it to the controller, but that seemed to fail each time.  So I then tried the change button and changed it to 4, restarted the program and pressed read to verify that the channels started at 4.

 

I also didn't see a way to set the test cycle function after setting the channel on the controller to 4.

 

Perhaps a simpler interface.  Scan for the device and do a read at startup, I don't see a need to have read and write buttons there.  Report the channel configuration and the test cycle function in read only controls.  The have a single edit box for the new channel number start, a drop down list for the new test cycle mode and a single 'Set' button.  After the set completes, read the device and update the read only controls.

 

Perhaps there is more functionality in the program than I am aware of.  For example, I have no idea what the sliders on the right hand side are supposed to do.

 

Anyway - that's my feedback.  Hope it helps!

 

Thanks!
Paul

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Jim -

 

I just noticed this reference to our controllers and would like to know if there is any issue we can remedy or provide more information on.  We want all of our customers to be 100% happy with their products and it doesn't sound like that is the case with your purchase.  Please feel free to respond here or to our private support ticket request.

Hey guys, sorry for the confusion.  David, I owe you an apology.  I don't have anything against your products.  It was past my bedtime when I posted that and didn't word my thoughts correctly.  I believe what meant to say was, I can't use the three channel controllers for my floods because they are four color floods.  If I were using RGB then yes, the three channel controllers would work just fine for my application.  What gets very tricky is if you want to run 20W or more then the three channel contollers would not work unless the right led was being used.

 

I've been in Boulder, Colorado the last two weeks, so I've had very limited time on the forum.

Edited by scubado

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Hi Guys,

I have the 30 w RGBs and apparently are not the one Jim suggest. Since I'm novice in all this can some of you explain what type of resistor should I use? The same of the 10w above? The driver it has as you can see in the picture the resistor build- in and i guess will be easy for me buy them new. Im planing to use a DMX512 system. I'll really appreciate your recommendations! Thanks

 

[Admin Edit: The original links provided in this post were not functional.]

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Dave,

 

This test was for 10W floods and connecting to the LOR DC controller, which for me is perfect for a nice wash on the house.

I found out there is at least two different versions of the 10W LED flood (could be more). The only difference is the placement of circuitry inside.

I took some pics and posted them on PhotoBucket (link provided below).

I labeled the two floods, "Type A" and "Type B".

Type A was easier to deal with, just pull off the back, pull out the power module and circuitry, connect the colored Cat5 wires and used the included resistor on the red wire for the red LED and the rest direct to the LOR DC controller. All three colors ran great.

Type B was a little different. The power module was in the back and the circuitry is in the front so I had to remove both the back cover and the front lense.

I removed the back cover and cut and pulled out the power module, leave the cover off and feed the Cat5 cable thru the hole where the power cable was.

Removed the front lense and reflector and there is the circuitry board. This type had "3" resistors, not "1" like Type A. After running voltage tests, I knew to keep all three resistors in tact and just cut the circuit board in half leaving the 3 resistors together. This made it easier to connect the RGB wires (in my case Cat5 wires) which I ran thru the back cover and thru the main body, connect the wires and close everything up. Again, all three colors ran great.

Hopefully the pics will help in understanding what I did.

I used Cat5 as a test and could have used Zip cord (SPT1 or 2). I think I will stick with the Cat5 just because I can pig tail it for easy connection and so I only have one wire assy going to each flood versus two wires if I used zip cord. Plus the Cat5 wires are color coded so it was easier to know what colors to attach to what channel on the controller.

For the CAT5 wires, I used orange for red, blue for blue and green for green. For the fourth wire I just chose one of the white wires (with a blue stripe in my case). This way I know which one to use at each end. The rest of the wires I just cut off at each end.

The Photobucket link is here. I tried to label them for what they were.

 

Hope that helps and if you have any questions, I will do my best to answer them.

 

I must add, I compared these to other floods I have and these cover a larger area and are much brighter. I can only imagine how the 20W, 30W and 50W floods look, which I may play with them as well.

 

please note: I directly connected the flood to test with the controller because I didn't have a CAT5 coupler.

 

It's been awhile since I last posted anything on this subject.

I've been playing around alittle with the LED 10W RGB floods and found alittle more tweeking to make it a little easier.

I was first entertaining using 3 three resistors for the three colors. After taking voltage reading of each color directly from the LEDs and then from the resistors, it occured to me that, using an adjustable 12v DC power supply, I can eliminate two of the resistors, one on the green and one on the blue by adjusting the voltage down to around 11 to 11.5 volts and still have the same results and only use the resistor for the red. This is a safer level of volts for the blue and green since around 11 volts is what these two colors run off of.

 

I also ran into a "Type C" flood which is similar to "Type A" where as you just remove the back cover but there is a complete module molded in hard plastic instead of the exposed circuit board as in "Type A". I simply cut the wires on both ends of the module and removed the module/wiring. Then I have the 4 wires only coming from the LED. I attached an 18ohm 1W resistor which i purchased from ebay here http://www.ebay.com/itm/111075017744?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_1312wt_1124 to the red wire for the red LEDs. The connected the CAT5 wires as described earlier. This was a little easier than messing with circuit boards in either "Type A or B" and shortened the time to a complete hack of the flood.

I've hacked about 25 floods and about another 10 or so more to go. So far they are testing pretty good with no problems as of yet.

With running 11 to 11.5v DC and using a 18ohm resistor for the red, I am keeping my voltage levels to the LEDs where they need to be. 6.5v DC for the red and 11v DC for the green and blue.

I will update my photobucket with up to date pics of the "Type C" hack.

 

Just to clarify, there is no official "Type" label to each different flood. I'm just pointing out the difference in different typs of floods I'm running into.

 

I'm sure there are other ways and ideas, but I'm happy so far with this and looks like it might get me the results I'm looking for.

Once my display is up and running, I will provide a video of what I'm doing with these.

 

Hope this helps a few since I have seen the topic come up a couple times recently.

 

Tom

 

And a word of safety for anyone purchasing these floods and see/use a ground (third) wire when hooking up directly to 110v in the unhacked condition.

The ground wire on the inside of the back cover IS NOT CONNECTED.

I ran into this with all three types. Just wanted to make folks aware of that.

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Discovered the missing ground too - I usually swap the wire anyway so it was not much of an issue. Only catch was to find a spot to connect the ground reliable...

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Discovered the missing ground too - I usually swap the wire anyway so it was not much of an issue. Only catch was to find a spot to connect the ground reliable...

 

I'm talkin the ground wire was there (3 wires seen on the outside), just not connected on the inside. It gives folks a false thought thinking if they connect that third wire, they think they are grounding the item when in fact they aren't.

Some floods just have the two wires with no ground wire included (or missing)

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