john fulkerson Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 amazing frank id like to see how you do the lil thingy going down the left side across the bottom and up the left side also the spiral and the twirling thingies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryk5 Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 I'd also like to see how that is done! Just got 12 CCR's and a bit much to take in at first. But it looks so cool! Larry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Don Gillespie Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Frank that is well built I really like the frame easy to build and easy to to take apart and store, the lights look very evenly spaced nice job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Farmer Posted April 21, 2013 Author Share Posted April 21, 2013 (edited) The "inch worm" effect is done by using two morphs per step. The first morph goes from the side of the tree to perpendicular to the side of the tree, the second morph then moves from that position to back the the side of the tree, just next to the original starting morph. See the two links below: http://lightshow.franktronics.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Morph1.jpghttp://lightshow.franktronics.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Morph2.jpg It takes 24 morphs to "walk" around the CCR tree. Frank Edited April 21, 2013 by Frank Farmer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john fulkerson Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 so kool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharpsvillelights Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 What did you use to attach each pixel (top and bottom) to the metal guidewire? Does this keep the pixel from moving? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 What did you use to attach each pixel (top and bottom) to the metal guidewire? Does this keep the pixel from moving? Are you asking Frank or me? If me, see: http://www.k6ccc.org/pixeltree/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Farmer Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 What did you use to attach each pixel (top and bottom) to the metal guidewire? Does this keep the pixel from moving? I didn't use any metal wire, I used 3/4" square aluminum tubing, bolted together.The CCR's are attached to the tubing using wire-ties at every pixel cut-point (hundreds of them).The pixels DO NOT MOVE. When I disassembled the frame I wrapped each vertical section in bubblewrap and then stacked them in the garage on hooks above the door. Didn't take up much space and I don't have to take the CCR's off the tubing.Here is a picture of the Frame before the CCR's were applied.http://lightshow.franktronics.net/wp-content/gallery/christmas-2012/100_0940.jpgHere is a picture of one of the tubes with a CCR strip on it.http://lightshow.franktronics.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/100_0949.jpghttp://lightshow.franktronics.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/100_0958.jpg 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john fulkerson Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 by the way how heavy you think the frame is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Farmer Posted May 27, 2013 Author Share Posted May 27, 2013 This frame is 105 lbs. With the cross members the frame is very rigid and two people can move it. Easier with 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john fulkerson Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 wow lil to heavy for me to pick up by self 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Farmer Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 Yea, you will need some help getting it into place. The main cross member is level with the edge of my roof, which makes for a good location to secure it. Last winter it went through 45-50mph winds, rain and snow without any problems. I didn't loose a single pixel either, which is why I went with a frame verses putting the CCR's on flexiable conduit or rope/cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Boyd Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 OK folks. I've read through this thread a couple of times now and nobody seems to know about this or has remembered about it yet. This: http://www.magicchristmasnews.org/magic_christmas_news_002.htm is what I plan on doing. Mine will have the Portable Hole (Built), Strapping for the pixels and the center pole will be rigid conduit,1 1/4" instead of 2". I did make the adjustments to the Portable Hole to all 1 1/4". The Jump Pole looks like what I'll use for my 20' LED Mega this year. The portable hole is 135#s or so but you only have to move it once. Once this thing gets anchored, it's not going anywhere. The reason I'm going with the Color Motion style is just how even and precise everything lines up. Mine will only be 180o and 16 legs but will be easy storage and easy take down.I'm using flat WS2811 pixels, so I had to find something to make all 800 of them line up nice and neat. Just another idea to ponder. Looking forward to some more Vids. I'll have some posted on my website shortly after I go live in late November or early December Good luck folks,Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajfelice Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 Frank, I have a question for you. I see in your plans that you attach your star to the outer two aluminum pipes. Is your star on a backing? And is it string enough? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Farmer Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 My star is made of 3/4" PVC plate. The two longer outside poles of the CCR-tree are bolted to that star.We had 50MPH winds just after Christmas last year and even though it was waving like a flag, it never came down or broke anything.I would not recommend string. The weight of the star requires a good anchor to the poles.I've attached a couple of pictures. One is a view from the ground, the other is from the back of the star. http://lightshow.franktronics.net/?attachment_id=714 http://lightshow.franktronics.net/?attachment_id=713 If you need anymore detail, let me know.Frank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajfelice Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Very helpful I appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajfelice Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Thank you, the pics really help... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
khawes Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 anyone tried: http://www.zorotools.com/g/Strut%20Channel%20-%20KINDORF/00099407/ (the one with the holes) for a tree? I wonder if it weighs less that the aluminium tubing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Farmer Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 The 20' aluminum poles I got were about $15 each. The ones with the holes is over twice the costs. (I guess for punching all the holes in it.) I also caculated that it would have only saved me about 15lbs overall. So the tree would have been 90lbs instead of the 105lbs it ended up being. I went with the cheaper tubing, I think it's stronger too.Frank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k6ccc Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 anyone tried: http://www.zorotools.com/g/Strut%20Channel%20-%20KINDORF/00099407/ (the one with the holes) for a tree? I wonder if it weighs less that the aluminium tubing. Lord no! That is unistrut by a different name. It's steel and heavy. That is what I used for my pixel tree.http://www.k6ccc.org/pixeltree/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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