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ScottyMo

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Tomorrow I am going to take MikeyRo's suggestion and swap outlets. I will take the old (working) GFCI, and install it into the new outlet where the GFCI keeps tripping. I'll also take the new GFCI and place into the old outlet. This "should" settle whether or not the problem is with the wiring "to" the outlet. I am quite confident the wiring from the panel to the new outlet are correct. I am expecting tomorrow that the "old" GFCI installed in the "new" outlet will continue to work fine, and the "new" GFCI installed into the "old" outlet will continue to trip.

Question. My house is about 25 years old. So the "old" GFCI's are from the mid 80's. Could it simply be a matter of tightened GFCI standards since then? Meaning... My PS's are leaking current but the "old" GFCI's have a higher tolerance and therefore do not trip where newer GFCI's will?

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Before you swap GFCI outlets, you might want to pickup a cheap tester with a GFCI test button like: http://www.all-spec.com/products/61-051.html

It will tell you if the outlet is wired properly (no offence to your dad) and by pushing the button, it will test for proper GFCI operation.

Try it out on the new outlets and old ones too.

Maybe it will show something new.

Having an ungrounded power supply inside an enclosed plastic case may not be a bad thing, but it would be best to chase down the culprit.

Keep us posted.

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Those GFCI testers are also available at home depot, well worth the 10 dollar investment.

You installed two circuits..both with one outlet, that being a GFCI receptacle, correct? No other outlets on either circuit?

And both are exhibiting the same symptoms?

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Those GFCI testers are also available at home depot, well worth the 10 dollar investment.

You installed two circuits..both with one outlet, that being a GFCI receptacle, correct? No other outlets on either circuit?

And both are exhibiting the same symptoms?

Yes both have the same symptoms.

One of the breakers has only the GFCI on it. The other has only one other outlet. that other outlet is right beside the panel and just has the VOIP box attached. To be sure, that was not causing the issue. I temporarily disconnected that outlet so only the GFCI was on the breaker. Same result.

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The only possible issue on the outlet side from a wiring standpoint would be to ensure you don't have line and load swapped, and that would have been obvious.

Did your gfci outlet swap (assuming you did it) give any insight?

This is the main panel in your house, fed by your utility, not a sub-panel, correct?

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The only possible issue on the outlet side from a wiring standpoint would be to ensure you don't have line and load swapped, and that would have been obvious.

Did your gfci outlet swap (assuming you did it) give any insight?

This is the main panel in your house, fed by your utility, not a sub-panel, correct?

Yes the line and load are not swapped. The load comes with a yellow sticker across it that says do not remove unless using the load terminals. I never removed the sticker.

I didn't get a chance to do the outlet swap. It will have to be on the weekend.

Yes it is the main panel. Not a sub-panel.

ScottyMo

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Scott - one more thing to check. You may want to see if there is any connection between the low voltage side and the ground in your power supply. I just discovered, that the "+" output of my LED driver power supply is connected to ground.

This introduces a -12V difference of the "-" output to ground. Most electronics actually use the "-" as ground... I ended up frying a DMX controller and a LOR adapter. Not happy right now.

Aside from this, this could also be the reason for GFCI tripping...

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Scott - one more thing to check. You may want to see if there is any connection between the low voltage side and the ground in your power supply. I just discovered, that the "+" output of my LED driver power supply is connected to ground.

This introduces a -12V difference of the "-" output to ground. Most electronics actually use the "-" as ground... I ended up frying a DMX controller and a LOR adapter. Not happy right now.

Aside from this, this could also be the reason for GFCI tripping...

Sorry to hear about your DMX controller and LOR adapter. A GFCI monitors the current difference between the Hot and Neutral wires on the circuit it protects, the ground is not monitored. The fact that you have tied one of the low voltage outputs to ground doesnt affect the GFCI. I agree with Max-Paul on the possibility of a filter network between the Hot and Ground internally in your power supplies. Another thing to check is the green power splitter on the end of the extension cord, verify that it is wired correctly!!!!

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ScottyMo..did you ever get this resolved?

Sorry for the late reply. When I swapped the outlets, nothing changed. The old GFCI still worked when wired into the new outlet. Where as the new GFCI still tripped when wired into the old outlet. So I think the problem must be in the power supplies. At this point, I am going with the power supply grounds disconnected while plugged into the new GFCI's

ScottyMo

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I wonder if they have a disk cap. between the hot lead and the case? This is good practice to insure that there is no high frequency noise leaving the P.S. on the hot lead and messing with any other electronics in the house via the A.C. lines. It is possible that this cap. is allowing enough current leak to ground and trip the GFI. I would look for this noise filter cap first and remove it.

That's exactly what I was going to say. Don't be afraid to open one of these power supplies. They are, after all, cheap Chinese units that may not have been built with top engineering standards.

When you open the power supply, look for anything connecting from the line input to ground. That will be the filter capacitor that Max-Paul is talking about. Don't be afraid to remove it, because it's the thing that is causing you the trouble. It will probable work just as well without it. There will probably be two, one from hot to ground and one from neutral to ground. Remove them both.

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