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TJ Hvasta

CTB-16PC Murder-suicide pact..

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Don't feel bad.... I know of a certain person who, being pretty good with hardware and no dummy, put line voltage onto a USB port.

Silly rabbit, USB is 5V DC,not 120 AC :P

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@ TJ, there's a selector switch on the side, 115 or 230. I set it to 115 because dc load and led.

@ Mike Lol, makes me feel a little better. The only thing I can think of, is the wires touched the mosfets and that overheated the board. They're in such a convenient place...lol

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@ TJ, there's a selector switch on the side, 115 or 230. I set it to 115 because dc load and led.

@ Mike Lol, makes me feel a little better. The only thing I can think of, is the wires touched the mosfets and that overheated the board. They're in such a convenient place...lol

Just to clarify, are you hooking up a 12V DC power supply to your board? Or did you hook up 115V AC to your board?

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Still, you dint really say you ran the 12v dc lines to the -16QC board.. yes, the ps has a 115/230 selectable input voltage switch, but from which pads did you run wires from (on the ps) to the board?

Does Kevins supply document (list) which specific pads to use? There are both PLUS 12v DC and MINUS 12v DC rails on that arent there?

Edited by TJ Hvasta

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I'll try to snap a pic and let you see. It'll make more sense methinks

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Sorry it took a while to send you. Here's your pic

Lolz, yeah....forgot to 'attach this file'

post-9945-0-89322400-1351178624_thumb.jp

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Sorry it took a while to send you. Here's your pic

Lolz, yeah....forgot to 'attach this file'

DLTSLC; that pink bubble wrap you are using appears to me to be anti- static wrap and is conductive, it is not an insulator. Granted it is not a low resistance but enough to cause problems. I would not let it come in contact with the board traces.

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That's the one I haven't had problems with lolz. The other one is outside and is the one I have constant problems with :( Should've snapped a picture of that one. I think it's because when I close the lid, the wires are compressed and contact the mosfets. But it's hard to see if that's the problem obviously because the lid is closed :huh:

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That's the one I haven't had problems with lolz. The other one is outside and is the one I have constant problems with :( Should've snapped a picture of that one. I think it's because when I close the lid, the wires are compressed and contact the mosfets. But it's hard to see if that's the problem obviously because the lid is closed :huh:

Well if you are using the same bubble wrap in your "outside, problem controller" you might solve your problems by removing the bubble wrap it and secure the board with some bolts. You are asking for trouble if you let the bubble wrap contact the traces of the circuit board.

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I have the outside controller secured to a plate inside the enclosure with CA-friendly 'bumpers.' I think my problem is there is very little room and when I shut the lid, the wires contact the mosfets.

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You've inspired me to finally get off my butt and order a spare USB-RS485 adapter.

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good idea John.. you can have led's, ccrs, strips, strobes, stars, etc, but without a working -485, they're all just thing you spent $$ on that you cant use.

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The Mosfets you all keep talking about aren't those actually voltage regulators? unless I am thinking of something different? I'm thinking of the hardware that has the small heat sinks on it.?

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The Mosfets you all keep talking about aren't those actually voltage regulators? unless I am thinking of something different? I'm thinking of the hardware that has the small heat sinks on it.?

The MOSFET's are the two rows of 8 devices down either side of the board. For a DC card, they switch the ground side of the channel, like a triac switches the hot lead on the AC boards.

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i would mount board properly into box and get rid of bubble rap, also make sure wires do not get squashed by lid or use a bigger box or route cables properly. i have also had issues with controllers outside but not LOR ones DMX, and problems with channels blowing, my findings have been, rope light bulbs failing and drawing excessive current taking out triacs, water ingress into light fittings or connections again causing major current draw. squirrel eating cables but he didnt survive so that sorted. things i have done to stop issues, i installed fuses on all outputs to lights with fuse ratings set to the correct size for lights this has stopped problems with overloading or faults on lights damaging controller. small cctv camera heaters in some of the larger metal controller boxes and damp removal devices in smaller boxes this stops condensation within controllers and has proved to be great improvement. cold and damp does cause intermittent faults especially with the network side.

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