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CMB16D Board RGB Controllers


CLD Kevin

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As you know, the LOR DC board comes as just that…if you want it as a controller, you will need to build it yourself. I’ve been asked many, many times so….I will be selling on my online store LOR DC RGB controller completely built or as in a DIY kit.

The completely built is just that….plug and play. All pre-built inside an enclosure with 30A power supply with RGB cables. This unit it set up only as a RGB controller….5 RGB groups. This is the exactly setup I used for my display last year and worked perfectly. Very powerful. Only word of caution….The power supply gets very hot especially if you’re maxing out. You will need to leave the door open while in use. I mounted my in the garage and removed the doors. Drilling holes for ventilation is just not enough….been there don’t that. An other option that I thought about but haven’t tried is mounting 2 small fans on the inside door. One pulling in air and the other out. Channel 16 is not being used for this setup and could use for the fans so they are not always running. Only when needed. Maybe that will be version 2. The controller also comes with the RGB male cables to match up with the pre-built female on the controller.

http://www.store.cre...16D-RGB-RTG.htm

The Kit is just the main components…LOR board, Enclosure, Power Supply, Power Cord and RGB Pigtails. You will need to built it yourself and supply your own bolts, washers, nuts, crimp connectors, stand-offs mounting board, ect. Basically all the main parts and just need the small stuff you can get from HD or Lowes. Great for you DIY’er. Get all the main parts from one souce and built it yourself.

http://www.store.cre...16D-RGB-KIT.htm

Unfortunately, at this time, I only have 1 left. I sold the rest. I guess I should have posted this weeks ago. Work has been keep me busy and haven’t had time to update…a little behind. I have everything in stock to build except for the DC boards which I just order more. Send me an email if you’re interested or have any questions. Once the boards come in, I will update the store inventory.

info@creativelightingdisplays.com

Kevin

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As you know, the LOR DC board comes as just that…if you want it as a controller, you will need to build it yourself.

Kevin

Kevin,

Maybe I misread your post but LOR DC boards are complete as a controller. Just hook up power, the lights and cat5. Nothing to build.

Are you talking about something else?

I know you know your stuff so I don't question your knowledge with LOR. Just curious.

Thanks,

Tom

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I'm reading this as Kevin provides the DC board assembled, and a case, power supply, pigtails, etc.

He's not describing the board as a "kit", but rather, a kit consisting of enclosure, power supply, all the ancillary parts.

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Okay Gary,

After reading again, you are right. The word "controller" and "build it yourself" at the beginning got me.

Thanks,

Tom

Edited by Santas Helper
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Sorry for the confusion…I know what I want to say, but sometime can’t explain it when it comes to writing it down.

Gary is correct. The DC board already comes pre-built and solder together…but its just the board….No power supply, enclosure, cables, ect. Call it naked. The DC board is the body and I can provide the clothes. Either all dressed up and ready to party outside (fully built) or just the pants and shirt and you pick out the rest (DIY).

So just to be clear….the DC board or you can call it DC controller is only available like this:

http://store.lightorama.com/cmdedcca2.html

The DC board requires a AC to DC power source and cables from the board to your device (lights). I’m offering to a the same pre-built board, but built inside an enclosure with power supply, pigtails, mounting hardware, ect…fully built. But the "controller" is set up for RGB lighting because of the 4-wire pigtials. Or you can get it in a kit, which you get the same pre-built DC board and only the main items…enclosure, power supply, power cord, pigtails. You would just need to provide your own mounting hardware, crimp-on connectors, ect. The kinda stuff you can get at HD or Lowes. The Kit was created so you don’t need to buy the power supply from one vendor, the enclosure from another, the pigtails from another, ect. You get all the parts from one source and the remaining items from your local hardware store. Just trying to make it an easy one stop shop.

Hope I explain it so its clear??

Kevin

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I'm reading this as Kevin provides the DC board assembled, and a case, power supply, pigtails, etc.

He's not describing the board as a "kit", but rather, a kit consisting of enclosure, power supply, all the ancillary parts.

Again The DC board is already assembled. So, why does everyone say DC Board assembled. Its misleading to make note that the board is assembled. Thats the only way it comes. Now if everyone would say that the kit contains a power supply, a dc controller board and an encloser. Then there would be no misleading statements. Why try to something out of nothing? Sounds like hype "Oh yes we offer this with a completely assembled DC controller board". I mean really so what! The boards comes that way normally.....

Sorry Kevin, posted this before reading your post up a couple. Selection of words can leave people with different meanings. As I have mentioned above.

Edited by Max-Paul
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Hence the wording from LOR on the DC controller.

CMB16D DC Controller

  • 40 amp DC controller with 16 independent high-power channels

This is why I was confused originally. "Board" on Kevin's post versus "controller" on the LOR site.

But I'm good now.

Thanks,

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not everyone knows how to work out the right power supply/right cables etc etc so kevin offers a pre built one so its just plug and play and makes it even easier for us newbies wanting to get into rgb

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Call it naked. The DC board is the body and I can provide the clothes. Either all dressed up and ready to party outside (fully built) or just the pants and shirt and you pick out the rest (DIY).

I think I need a new keyboard now...this one has Ice tea all in it now after reading that. :lol:

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I think I need a new keyboard now...this one has Ice tea all in it now after reading that. :lol:

I was waiting for someone to catch that :)

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  • 1 month later...

Anyone solve the heat build-up problem with the DC board and power supply? I have to mount the enclosures under my eaves and am worried that the power supply is going to overheat and fry inside the enclosure and melt my DC board when I can't see or notice....

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Anyone solve the heat build-up problem with the DC board and power supply? I have to mount the enclosures under my eaves and am worried that the power supply is going to overheat and fry inside the enclosure and melt my DC board when I can't see or notice....

I've seen you post this on three different threads. You might want to start a "new" thread on this problem your having so others will see it in the main topic. Probably get a bigger response too.

Just a thought.

BTW, I keep my power supply seperate from my DC controllers. Less heat on the controllers, the better IMHO.

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Yeah, I'm going to start a new thread, though I might just put these in my garage vs mount them in an enclosure under my eaves. I didn't realize the heat buildup would be a problem until I started browsing threads. Another option is to make a heat sink inside the enclosure, but there's not a lot of room, and it's more work lolz

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just answered on that thread.. small muffin fan (2" - 3"), either inside, or on backside of the case, with a cage to keep fingers, slugs, etc out of the blades. 12v, low profile.. and to others also.. small muffin fans I use to ventilate elec components, stereos, amps, cable boxes.. 12vdc, low profile, low current, low noise, and a cage on each (if mounted on the outside of the components case) to keep fingers out. probably $10 ttl.

Edited by TJ Hvasta
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Hey Kevin, I'm probably looking for another DC board.. how quick can you ship, does it come from you or NY?

Edited by TJ Hvasta
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Hey Kevin, I'm probably looking for another DC board.. how quick can you ship, does it come from you or NY?

I've gone through about 40 of these DC boards very quickly. I'm out right now but have I think 10 or 20 on the way. LOR is having a hard time keeping up with my orders....and I'm having a hard time keep up with order from ya'll. I'm doing my best and apologize to anyone if there was a delay.

Since Labor Day, orders have tripled. And my emails went from 20 to 80 a day. I think I need to hire someone from Sept to Jan just to read my emails. Anyways, if I don’t have them in stock…I can have it direct ship from NY. Basically the same as if you ordered direct from LOR.

If you only looking for 1 or 2....I think I can help you pretty quickly with that. I have a couple brand new ones still in the box that I was keeping for myself but dont mind giving it up since I have more coming in.

Now for the heat problem....I thought about using a thin 12v fan on the front door. Mount it in the inside and drill some holes and place some type of half cover over the holes to keep water out. You can connect it directly to the PS but it will constantly run or connect it to ch 16 of the LOR board. This way you can have it run only durning the show.

Edited by CLD Kevin
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I think I'm actually going to have just one outside, and it will be under the porch ceiling, so pretty protected from the elements. The other I decided to run outta the garage - hopefully the garage doors don't squish the cat5 and 4-wire 18 gauge wires coming out :(

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just answered on that thread.. small muffin fan (2" - 3"), either inside, or on backside of the case, with a cage to keep fingers, slugs, etc out of the blades. 12v, low profile.. and to others also.. small muffin fans I use to ventilate elec components, stereos, amps, cable boxes.. 12vdc, low profile, low current, low noise, and a cage on each (if mounted on the outside of the components case) to keep fingers out. probably $10 ttl.

TJ. I mounted a CPU fan on the bottom/right of my enclosure blowing up and across the board and PS, and put a vent on the

LH side/top... Works Great!. (I know I don't have to tell you to use standoffs)

tj

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I think I'm actually going to have just one outside, and it will be under the porch ceiling, so pretty protected from the elements. The other I decided to run outta the garage - hopefully the garage doors don't squish the cat5 and 4-wire 18 gauge wires coming out :(

You shouldn't have a problem with your garage door squishing the cables. Mine did just fine last two years. If you feel your garage door shuts to hard, just adjust it a little so it doesn't shut so hard on the cables.

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