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New changes to LOR webstore...

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I use a solder pot for tinning. It makes it VERY fast to do a lot of wires.
I ALWAYS tin stranded wire ends.
RW

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Roadrat wrote:

So, how are these things set by software? The units I have now use the dial.

Via the hardware utility. It can be reset at any time, and keeps its settings.

Regarding tinning -- I've just never been able to get it to work successfully. By the time I tin a wire, it's too thick to get under the screw terminals. In any case it's certainly much easier to crimp on a connection and plug it in.

-Tim

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If the wire is the correct temp, the solder s u c k s up and adds almost no thickness to it.

But connectors are easy too. :)
RW

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FBinthesouth wrote:

If the wire is the correct temp,


That's the trick. I can't seem to get it to that temp, especially with the thick wires you use in controllers. I use a high-wattage soldering gun for this and still can't get it hot enough.

-Tim

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If you solder like in the pick at top, the flux is in the solder almost always. In a solder pot, you can flux the wire- BUT I usually do not need to unless it is dirty or oxidized badly.

RW

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Most soldering jobs can be done with fluxcored solder (solder wire with the flux in a "core") when the surfaces to be joined are already clean or can be cleaned of rust, dirt and grease. Flux can also be applied by other means. Flux only cleans oxides off the surfaces to be soldered. It does not remove dirt, soot, oils, silicone, etc. I also use Soldering past to help the solder flow a little better.

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Is there a way to buy just the Enclosure or just the cordsets that are used on the Add on kit (CTB16PC). from LOR. Can You select a metal add on option for the CtB16PC or only plastic.

Thanks

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I bought the cards, heatsinks, and cordsets, but bought metal 10 x10 x 4 Nema 3R boxes for $17 locally.

I just wanted the metal to attach the heatsinks to.

RW

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Richard III wrote:

Is there a way to buy just the Enclosure or just the cordsets that are used on the Add on kit (CTB16PC). from LOR. Can You select a metal add on option for the CtB16PC or only plastic.
Thanks


You can purchase the cord sets in the LOR "Accessories" section HERE

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Richard III wrote:

Is there a way to buy just the Enclosure or just the cordsets that are used on the Add on kit (CTB16PC). from LOR. Can You select a metal add on option for the CtB16PC or only plastic.

Thanks


At this time the Enclosure and the cordsets for the CTB16PC are only available when you buy that Board or kit.

The cords in the Accessory section are the twisted and tinned type and will not work with the CTB16PC boards.

Mary

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Well, now I'm getting confused
I thought I knew exactly what I wanted

CTB-16KSWHS Kit

I want the ability to run 20a per side
I may never do it, but want the ability for the extra $10
I think I prefer terminal screws
I'm planning on having a spare PC run the show

Did they just change the names of things? :?

Is this the 1st time the kits were available to solder yourself??

Now there is the
CTB16KSWHStrans_1x1.gif- what I planned to buy

and the
CTB16PC for $105 - is the only difference this only does 30a??

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Mary wrote:

Richard III wrote:
Is there a way to buy just the Enclosure or just the cordsets that are used on the Add on kit (CTB16PC). from LOR. Can You select a metal add on option for the CtB16PC or only plastic.

Thanks


At this time the Enclosure and the cordsets for the CTB16PC are only available when you buy that Board or kit.

The cords in the Accessory section are the twisted and tinned type and will not work with the CTB16PC boards.

Mary


Wouldn't they work if someone wanted to crimp on their own ends?

Just asking to make sure I'm not missing something obvious...

-Tim

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The enclosures are Manufactured by Primex here in Canada and distrubuted in both countries by the same company. I just purchased the P136 housing (same as PC kit, no strain relief ) for $10.20 CDN. Primex.ca in Canada and Primex.com for US distrubution, they produce many differrent enclosures for the Telecom and Cable Industry in poly propylene and ABS for better fire rating. I don't work for these people and I don't own shares in the company. I work in the Telecom industry and we use these in our trade. I just thought I would pass this info along to help the other DIY'ers.

Oh and yes if they are only tinned just crimp the female spad terminals onto the wires, or just cut the tinned end off and strip and crimp the new terminations.

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Now there is the
CTB16KSWHStrans_1x1.gif- what I planned to buy

and the
CTB16PC for $105 - is the only difference this only does 30a??

No. The new kit is not a deluxe kit as the older kit is. The new kit does not have a manual ID selection nor does it have the capability to act as a director.

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Sounds more than fair to me considering it is customized to fit perfectly. Avoids me having to rig things.

RW

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Hi Dan, my post wasn't an attempt to say your boxes were too expensive, I believe they are a great deal and I did mention in my post that it is without the strain relief. I was only offering information to the other DIY'ers that would like to use this enclosure for the other products you sell.

After posting this I called LOR and discovered the other products won't fit in this box. So in learning this I'll just purchase the enclosures from LOR when I order the new PC kits. Sorry for the confusion Dan.


Edited with more info.

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grump010 wrote:

Hi Dan, my post wasn't an attempt to say your boxes were too expensive, I believe they are a great deal and I did mention in my post that it is without the strain relief. My only point was for the DIY'er that wants to use them for your other products as the enclosures don't appear to be separately available on your web page.


Hi Grump010... No issue at all:)... I was just surprised to see such a great price for the enclosures. If people find bargains please do not hesitate to let fellow enthusiasts know !!!!

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Let me see if I am getting this all right...

This is starting to confused me. I used one LOR1602W This past year (2006)

1. The CTB16PC is not a delux model. What is the Diffrece Between delux and not deluxe

2. The CTB16PC can only hold 30 amps, 15 amps perside. The LOR1602W is only 30 amps, 15 amps perside.

3. The CTB16PC can not be a director (Dose this mean it cant be the first of the controllers in a daisy chain) I have no Clue as to this.

4. How can the Encloser for this kit be plastic (CTB16PC) I thought the encloser had to be metal if you order heatsinks as the heatsinks need to transfer the heat throught he metal encoser in order to get the heat out side.

5. As I understand I can use the CTB16PC with my controler from last year the LOR1602W, because all the borads are compatible with each other.

6. How hard is it to assembal a board from LOR and what do you need to know in electrical experience to put a board from LOR together.

I think that is all the questions I have.Please dont take my info posted above as factual as I don't know if I am one hundred percent right.


Thanks For You Help In Advance

Ricky





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FBinthesouth wrote:

Now there is the
CTB16KSWHStrans_1x1.gif- what I planned to buy

and the
CTB16PC for $105 - is the only difference this only does 30a??

No. The new kit is not a deluxe kit as the older kit is. The new kit does not have a manual ID selection nor does it have the capability to act as a director.

Thank you, I did read up on both & I think I understand the differences now
I do not need the deluxe capability, show will be run from a PC

Is there an "advantage" to having the manual ID selector?
Can the boards "lose" their settings?

A string of C-9's on a channel = 175w x 8 = 1400w per side = 11.6a per side
I think that is the MAX I would put on a card, so 30a may work - especially for mega tree - I need 36 channels.

I guess I have some time to review before I order

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Richard III wrote:

Let me see if I am getting this all right...

This is starting to confused me. I used one LOR1602W This past year (2006)

1. The CTB16PC is not a delux model. What is the Diffrece Between delux and not deluxe

2. The CTB16PC can only hold 30 amps, 15 amps perside. The LOR1602W is only 30 amps, 15 amps perside.

3. The CTB16PC can not be a director (Dose this mean it cant be the first of the controllers in a daisy chain) I have no Clue as to this.

4. How can the Encloser for this kit be plastic (CTB16PC) I thought the encloser had to be metal if you order heatsinks as the heatsinks need to transfer the heat throught he metal encoser in order to get the heat out side.

5. As I understand I can use the CTB16PC with my controler from last year the LOR1602W, because all the borads are compatible with each other.

6. How hard is it to assembal a board from LOR and what do you need to know in electrical experience to put a board from LOR together.

I think that is all the questions I have.Please dont take my info posted above as factual as I don't know if I am one hundred percent right.


Thanks For You Help In Advance

Ricky

Ricky,

1. The deluxe models can be used as a director. This means that they can have sequences downloaded to them and can control other boards. This allows you to use the boards while not connected to a PC. The only difference is, unless you are using the MP3 Director card, you will not be able to sequence to audio this way. Non-Deluxe models (such as hte CTB16PC) MUST be used with either a PC, an MP3 Director Card, or a Deluxe board with a downloaded sequence loaded.

2. This is correct to the best of my knowledge.

3. See #1. Director has nothing to do with being first in the chain.

4. Metal is more effective at dissipating heat. Personally, all my enclosures are plastic and I have yet to have a problem. One of my controllers is pretty much maxed out with C9 lights and didn't have any problems.

5. ANY LOR board can be used iwth ANY other LOR board. The only issue is how you control them. Unless you have some specific reason, I would suggest planning to control them using a PC - it's just easier.

6. Assembly is not very hard. I have NOT assembled the CTB16PC, but I did put together a CTB16D kit purchased this summer. I do have some electrical knowledge, but all the parts are well identified and the board is well labeled. The boards come with a nice packet of assembly instructions and if you have ever used a soldering iron, you're probably fine. If you have never soldered on a circuit board before, I'd suggest getting a cheap board and a few resistors and jumper wires from Radio Shack or another electronics store and practice soldering without creating shorts on the board between two holes.

Hope this helps. If you ever have questions, just post them in the LOR forum - there are plenty of us here that can help.

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cstom2002 wrote:

Richard III wrote:
Let me see if I am getting this all right...

This is starting to confused me. I used one LOR1602W This past year (2006)

1. The CTB16PC is not a delux model. What is the Diffrece Between delux and not deluxe

2. The CTB16PC can only hold 30 amps, 15 amps perside. The LOR1602W is only 30 amps, 15 amps perside.

3. The CTB16PC can not be a director (Dose this mean it cant be the first of the controllers in a daisy chain) I have no Clue as to this.

4. How can the Encloser for this kit be plastic (CTB16PC) I thought the encloser had to be metal if you order heatsinks as the heatsinks need to transfer the heat throught he metal encoser in order to get the heat out side.

5. As I understand I can use the CTB16PC with my controler from last year the LOR1602W, because all the borads are compatible with each other.

6. How hard is it to assembal a board from LOR and what do you need to know in electrical experience to put a board from LOR together.

I think that is all the questions I have.Please dont take my info posted above as factual as I don't know if I am one hundred percent right.


Thanks For You Help In Advance

Ricky

Ricky,

1. The deluxe models can be used as a director. This means that they can have sequences downloaded to them and can control other boards. This allows you to use the boards while not connected to a PC. The only difference is, unless you are using the MP3 Director card, you will not be able to sequence to audio this way. Non-Deluxe models (such as hte CTB16PC) MUST be used with either a PC, an MP3 Director Card, or a Deluxe board with a downloaded sequence loaded.

2. This is correct to the best of my knowledge.

3. See #1. Director has nothing to do with being first in the chain.

4. Metal is more effective at dissipating heat. Personally, all my enclosures are plastic and I have yet to have a problem. One of my controllers is pretty much maxed out with C9 lights and didn't have any problems.

5. ANY LOR board can be used iwth ANY other LOR board. The only issue is how you control them. Unless you have some specific reason, I would suggest planning to control them using a PC - it's just easier.

6. Assembly is not very hard. I have NOT assembled the CTB16PC, but I did put together a CTB16D kit purchased this summer. I do have some electrical knowledge, but all the parts are well identified and the board is well labeled. The boards come with a nice packet of assembly instructions and if you have ever used a soldering iron, you're probably fine. If you have never soldered on a circuit board before, I'd suggest getting a cheap board and a few resistors and jumper wires from Radio Shack or another electronics store and practice soldering without creating shorts on the board between two holes.

Hope this helps. If you ever have questions, just post them in the LOR forum - there are plenty of us here that can help.


One other thing... Remember that the CTB16PC also comes with all parts soldered on the board. In that case you can make something similar to the LOR1602W with a few hand tools (like a screwdriver and pliers) and there is no need for soldering.

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LightORama wrote


One other thing... Remember that the CTB16PC also comes with all parts soldered on the board. In that case you can make something similar to the LOR1602W with a few hand tools (like a screwdriver and pliers) and there is no need for soldering.


I'm assuming Dan meant CTB16D above...

-Tim

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tfischer wrote:

LightORama wrote

One other thing... Remember that the CTB16PC also comes with all parts soldered on the board. In that case you can make something similar to the LOR1602W with a few hand tools (like a screwdriver and pliers) and there is no need for soldering.


I'm assuming Dan meant CTB16D above...

-Tim

You can get the CTB16PC board fully assembled with or without the enclosure, with or without power in cords and with or without the dangle cords.
So I think he was saying you could buy all of the components and build a complete box ximilar to the LOR1602W. And no soldering would be required.

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