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This looks like a pretty good deal for adding on an extra 16 channels to an existing system. I need one on the right side of the yard to eliminate a bunch of 40 ft. extention cords from a unit in the center of the yard near the house... Heck, the kit price is pretty good. Normally, even though I've had 30 + years soldering, I'm rather lazy after doing it all day... $50 is a pretty good incentive, though..

So, how are these things set by software? The units I have now use the dial. Also, do I have to flash the micro-controller or does it come programmed?

Another also... Does it come with the small heatsinks shown on the picture? I believe this will be plenty. I doubt all channels combined won't draw over 6-8 amps (and only need 10 channels) at this location.

I guess this should be asked.. If this comes with a different firmware, do I have to re-flash my other units? Are the files available to do this?

I have my own enclosure and can get the crimp terminals at work. Only $105.. Imagine if it goes on sale, too?

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Has anyone received these yet? I ordered three but don't expect them for another 4-5 days. Just anxious to see what people who have received them think of the kit.

Based on the other kits, I'm sure it will be great. Their other kits are so well put together.

RW

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tfischer wrote:



  • Regarding the spade plugs -- I consider this a Good Thing . I have trouble getting stranded wire in the terminal screws without having a little hair extending to a neighboring terminal. With the spades, you can simply crimp on connections, and plug them in.


A good practice for use of stranded wire is to Tin the exposed portion of the wire, this simplifies the insertion into the terminal screws without having any little hair's extending into the neighboring terminal's.


Attached files 121864=7274-TinnedWires.jpg
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Roadrat wrote:

So, how are these things set by software? The units I have now use the dial.

Via the hardware utility. It can be reset at any time, and keeps its settings.

Regarding tinning -- I've just never been able to get it to work successfully. By the time I tin a wire, it's too thick to get under the screw terminals. In any case it's certainly much easier to crimp on a connection and plug it in.

-Tim
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FBinthesouth wrote:

If the wire is the correct temp,


That's the trick. I can't seem to get it to that temp, especially with the thick wires you use in controllers. I use a high-wattage soldering gun for this and still can't get it hot enough.

-Tim
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If you solder like in the pick at top, the flux is in the solder almost always. In a solder pot, you can flux the wire- BUT I usually do not need to unless it is dirty or oxidized badly.

RW

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Most soldering jobs can be done with fluxcored solder (solder wire with the flux in a "core") when the surfaces to be joined are already clean or can be cleaned of rust, dirt and grease. Flux can also be applied by other means. Flux only cleans oxides off the surfaces to be soldered. It does not remove dirt, soot, oils, silicone, etc. I also use Soldering past to help the solder flow a little better.

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Is there a way to buy just the Enclosure or just the cordsets that are used on the Add on kit (CTB16PC). from LOR. Can You select a metal add on option for the CtB16PC or only plastic.

Thanks

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Richard III wrote:

Is there a way to buy just the Enclosure or just the cordsets that are used on the Add on kit (CTB16PC). from LOR. Can You select a metal add on option for the CtB16PC or only plastic.
Thanks


You can purchase the cord sets in the LOR "Accessories" section HERE
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Richard III wrote:

Is there a way to buy just the Enclosure or just the cordsets that are used on the Add on kit (CTB16PC). from LOR. Can You select a metal add on option for the CtB16PC or only plastic.

Thanks


At this time the Enclosure and the cordsets for the CTB16PC are only available when you buy that Board or kit.

The cords in the Accessory section are the twisted and tinned type and will not work with the CTB16PC boards.

Mary
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Well, now I'm getting confused
I thought I knew exactly what I wanted

CTB-16KSWHS Kit

I want the ability to run 20a per side
I may never do it, but want the ability for the extra $10
I think I prefer terminal screws
I'm planning on having a spare PC run the show

Did they just change the names of things? :?

Is this the 1st time the kits were available to solder yourself??

Now there is the
CTB16KSWHStrans_1x1.gif- what I planned to buy

and the
CTB16PC for $105 - is the only difference this only does 30a??

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Mary wrote:

Richard III wrote:
Is there a way to buy just the Enclosure or just the cordsets that are used on the Add on kit (CTB16PC). from LOR. Can You select a metal add on option for the CtB16PC or only plastic.

Thanks


At this time the Enclosure and the cordsets for the CTB16PC are only available when you buy that Board or kit.

The cords in the Accessory section are the twisted and tinned type and will not work with the CTB16PC boards.

Mary


Wouldn't they work if someone wanted to crimp on their own ends?

Just asking to make sure I'm not missing something obvious...

-Tim
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The enclosures are Manufactured by Primex here in Canada and distrubuted in both countries by the same company. I just purchased the P136 housing (same as PC kit, no strain relief ) for $10.20 CDN. Primex.ca in Canada and Primex.com for US distrubution, they produce many differrent enclosures for the Telecom and Cable Industry in poly propylene and ABS for better fire rating. I don't work for these people and I don't own shares in the company. I work in the Telecom industry and we use these in our trade. I just thought I would pass this info along to help the other DIY'ers.

Oh and yes if they are only tinned just crimp the female spad terminals onto the wires, or just cut the tinned end off and strip and crimp the new terminations.

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Now there is the
CTB16KSWHStrans_1x1.gif- what I planned to buy

and the
CTB16PC for $105 - is the only difference this only does 30a??

No. The new kit is not a deluxe kit as the older kit is. The new kit does not have a manual ID selection nor does it have the capability to act as a director.

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