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Ok, so being new, and doing some basic math leads me to believe this...

I am getting the 32 channel controller (2 16 channel controllers). It says it can control up to 18,000 lights...so basic math says that that is 500 lights per channel. Now, if I don't put as many lights on a different channel, does that mean I can put 1000 lights on one channel, or is that to much no matter what?

Greg

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You can have any combination of amperage on any channel, so long as you do not violate the following rules:

1) (Assuming you have the heatsink) no more than 8 amps per channel.
2) No more than 15amps per side. (Channels 1-8 or 9-16.) [see LORWiki.com on how to go up to 20amp per channel.)
3) Do not go over the rating limit of the board.

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Ponddude wrote:

So basically .33 amps for a string of 100 minis (I believe that's the rating) times 10 stings...basically is 3.33 amps...so that is good for 1 channel.

Thanks so much Don!!


Yes, but you can't do that for every channel. You need to average a little less than two amps per channel - to not go over 15 amps per ch. 1-8 and 9-16, if you have a 30 amp controller.

Using .33 amps per string, you could use 24 strings on one channel, but the other 7 channels could only handle 7 amps all together.

Keep track of how many amps you are pulling as you design your layout. Do your design first.

Have fun!

Michael B
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I'm really glad this topic came up because it helped me decide which LOR controller to purchase. I'm only going to be running 16 channels due to the cost involved and the size of our home. I believe that 16 channels is more than enough for what I need this year (next year I'll upgrade).

I'm searching LORWiki.com to find the 20 amp per channel tip, but have yet to find it. I know that the LOR CTB16KD can handle 20 amps per side, so I'm assuming that to handle 20 amps on a channel all other channels on that side must be off. Can anyone shed some light on that?

thanks!

Eric

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icemanodo wrote:

I'm searching LORWiki.com to find the 20 amp per channel tip, but have yet to find it. I know that the LOR CTB16KD can handle 20 amps per side, so I'm assuming that to handle 20 amps on a channel all other channels on that side must be off. Can anyone shed some light on that?

thanks!

Eric
http://www.lorwiki.com/en/index.php/Hardware#CTB-16D

You said channel and side in your message. It's probably a slip of the fingers on your part, but it's 20amps per side. You can only go up to 8amps per channel.

Everyone should also read the LOR Faq - General - Question 1.
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Wait, still confused. Did you mean to say 20 amps per side on your above post?


Don wrote:

You can have any combination of amperage on any channel, so long as you do not violate the following rules:

1) (Assuming you have the heatsink) no more than 8 amps per channel.
2) No more than 15amps per side. (Channels 1-8 or 9-16.) [see LORWiki.com on how to go up to 20amp per channel.)
3) Do not go over the rating limit of the board.



Anyway, now I'm pretty sure it's 20 amps/side not per channel since I think I read that the triacs are rated for 16 amps :]
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Michael, thank you so much. I actually had planned to have one channel have 1000 lights for 1 whole controller (same thing for another controller). So basically if I do that and I just watch my amps for the rest of the side, I should be good. Seems simple enough. But I am certainly beginning to understand the whole LED crazy between everyone. I definately understand why now...:laughing:

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Michael B wrote:


Keep track of how many amps you are pulling as you design your layout. Do your design first.



I've found out that the layout really does need to come first! I had all my mini trees (8 of them) on channels 1-8, and the rest of the display on channels 9-16. Channels 9-16 were WAY overloaded! OOPS! To top it off, I've even sequenced 5 songs and 4 short audio clips. Newbie/rookie mistake :?

I can balance everything out by moving some of the mini trees to the other side. Luckly I didn't go over the total amps for the controller. I've got 8 amps to spare! Now what can I add......

Eric

:tree::tree::tree::tree::tree::tree::tree::tree:
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icemanodo wrote:

I've found out that the layout really does need to come first!


I've said this many times. Don't know if people listen or not, but I see some of the same mistakes made every year.

Here is how I got started in '05 with 80 channels.

1) Evaluate my current display. Which elements will I keep? How many channels will those elements use?

2) How many channels can I afford? If this number is less that #1, repeat step one. If more than step #1, see step #3.

3) Buy channels.

4) Design new elements for newly purchased channels.

5) Decide on final layout of display, incorporating new and old elements.

6) Verify electrical loads. Create spreadsheet/document on how you will connect your lights to the controllers.

7) Verify power. Both at the channel level and breaker level. If overloaded at the channel level, redesign display.

8) Only now do you begin the work of sequencing your lights.



Again, using this method I was able to save myself many hours of work. The only reason I had to re-work some of my sequences was because I broke my own rules, and changed some design elements 'late' in the year. (By late, I mean July.)
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Don wrote:

icemanodo wrote:
I've found out that the layout really does need to come first!


I've said this many times. Don't know if people listen or not, but I see some of the same mistakes made every year.

Here is how I got started in '05 with 80 channels.

1) Evaluate my current display. Which elements will I keep? How many channels will those elements use?

2) How many channels can I afford? If this number is less that #1, repeat step one. If more than step #1, see step #3.

3) Buy channels.

4) Design new elements for newly purchased channels.

5) Decide on final layout of display, incorporating new and old elements.

6) Verify electrical loads. Create spreadsheet/document on how you will connect your lights to the controllers.

7) Verify power. Both at the channel level and breaker level. If overloaded at the channel level, redesign display.

8) Only now do you begin the work of sequencing your lights.



Again, using this method I was able to save myself many hours of work. The only reason I had to re-work some of my sequences was because I broke my own rules, and changed some design elements 'late' in the year. (By late, I mean July.)



Amen!



Don is right on. If you skip steps you could and probably will create a big mess for you to clean up!

Sometimes we have to learn the hard way. :shock:

Have fun planning out your display and include your family on some of the planning. Ask their opinions. My wife gave me a couple of very good suggestions for design changes. I incorporated them in the display and they really added a lot to the show.

Having your mate included is important because it is more fun and they usually help in making the financial decisions. ;)

Enjoy!

Michael B

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OK I understand the loads of the controller. My question is to use the full use of 40amps in the controller do you install a 20 amp double pole breaker in main panel and split it at the outlet box -2- 20 amp duplex receptacles and plug each bank in separate receptacle?

This is what I don't understand. If the controller can handle 40 amps (2-20amp fuses in controller) and you plug it in a 20 amp receptacle you can only put 10amps on each bank of the controller, if its 15 amp receptacle you can only put 7.5 amps per because the receptacle is only 20 or 15 amps........Correct? If you install a 20amp 240 volt double pole breaker and split it at the outlet box you would have 2 20 amp receptacles (in a duplex box) and would have 20 amps for each bank........correct or am I off base.

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You need 2 20 amp 120v breakers on the same phase for each 40 amp controller.
If the circuits are on different phases (like they would be with a double pole breaker)
you will get strange results with missing events. Several of us had this happen
last year. If you don't know what I mean my "the same phase" ask an electrician.
So yes, you need 2 20 amp 120v circuits to get the full 40 Amps.

Tim

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Tim Benson wrote:

You need 2 20 amp 120v breakers on the same phase for each 40 amp controller.

Tim

okay...this is the first time I've seen anything about being on the same phase. I assume you mean both sides of the same controller would need to be on the same phase. But you could have a second controller on a different phase?
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Yes, just the 2 feeds into a single controller need to be on the same Phase.
Other controllers can be on a different phase. I think it has something
to do with the zero crossing detection of the triac/opto.
Anyway, that was my expierence.

Tim

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I'm Missing something here. The link was for 3 phase which isn't residential. I installed a double pole 20amp breaker and split it at the outlet box. I had no problem running 16 channels with the banks split between the 2.

If the controller excepts 240 at the board then what would be the diffrence at the receptacle. You are still splitting 2 hot legs wether its at the board or at the receptacle..correct?

Don't know just asking. Any sparkies on this board?

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