htebault Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 I wanted to add LED C7 green for outlining the roof line. Lengths of the strings and my need are a bit off. I need to outline various sections of 34 feet, 30 feet, 20 feet, 14 feet and 10 feet - but typically I find string lengths of about 17 feet.Is there a reasonable way to build custom length LED strings for C7? I see bulk stringers and C7 "replacement bulbs" that might go together - but I must be missing something - it seems too easy so it must be wrong.On the LED subject - I also see notes about 1/2 wave and full wave(being better) and some LED's that cannot be dimmed - is there a LED string primer somewhere for gotcha's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max-Paul Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Your right. I know only one way to make customized string lengths. And that would be to buy the bulk strings (wire with sockets installed). You would then cut the length you need and then attach a plug and attach an extension wire to the controller. Then install bulbs in the sockets.Now you didn't say it clearly, but I suspect you might be looking at those bulk strings at Home Depot or Wally world. Those bulbs are molded on the wire and not replaceable to the best of my knowledge. I would not be able to say if these are half or full wave. Or if they are dimable either.I got 500' spool of 12' spaced C9 sockets. I only needed 80', but I made a super string of 4 strings, spaced every 3". I then bought what is known as dimable retro LED bulbs. Bought all of this from CDI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerrymac Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 If you use replacment c-7 led bulbs, you can get vampire plug c-7 sockets and put them on spt wire, any length (up to max load for the wire). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LORisAwesome Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I also bought the C9 stringers and C9 retro bulbs from CDI.I took it one step further. I made a framework of conduit for my roof outline and attached the C9 stringers to it. The framework is attached to the edges of the shingles using binder clips. At every joint in the conduit there is male and female vampire plugs to make the electrical connections.When I put it up and take it down, I attach lengths of 6-10 feet at a time instead of clipping individual sockets. Since I use four colors in my display, this is a great time saver.Before I made the framework, I was on the roof for 5 hours or more attaching bulbs. By the time I finished I was extremely sore and could hardly move.I could post photos if anyone is interested...Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htebault Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Thanks for the responses and pointers. I will try to use standard length (50/70/100 bulb) strings - but now know that I can use the C7 or C9 stringer cable and LED retro bulbs to make custom length when needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max-Paul Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Jerry, great idea. Ya, I know what you mean about being on the roof for to long and hurting when you come down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htebault Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 I did a quick calculation about costs of custom vs standard LED strings - I found there is quite a difference.Std strings at CDI (case cost) run about $.72/foot. Example, 50 bulb 17foot string is $150/case, 12.25/string.Custom string built with C7 at 4" centers has a cost of about $4.50/foot - (.20 zip cord, .40 sockets, 4.50 bulbs)So I will REALLY try to use standard string everywhere I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-klb- Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I don't think I would mix the two types. I think you will find they look a lot different. And while I don't think I have seen Paul's C7 strings, all the ones I have seen are not nearly as bright as the retrofit ones. Also, do you need 4" spacing? I use 12" for all the C7 at the fire station and C9 at home, which would bring your costs closer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
htebault Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Excellent point on both the brightness and density. I was using 4" only because that is the standard string. I did note that the retro bulbs include 3 led's - but the spec's don't list a lumen value -The revised cost for custom C7's would be $1.62/foot/bulb using the 1 per foot spacing. That compares much better to the standard string (1 led/bulb I guess) with the .72/foot cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LORisAwesome Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 htebault wrote: I did a quick calculation about costs of custom vs standard LED strings - I found there is quite a difference.Std strings at CDI (case cost) run about $.72/foot. Example, 50 bulb 17foot string is $150/case, 12.25/string.Custom string built with C7 at 4" centers has a cost of about $4.50/foot - (.20 zip cord, .40 sockets, 4.50 bulbs)So I will REALLY try to use standard string everywhere I can.I ran into trouble trying to use standard strings (purchased at Target). I use four colors (each color on its own circuit), and needed to maintain 3" spacing between bulbs. That means four strings for each section with each string offset 3" from the last. The problem was that it was extremely difficult to maintain that spacing with strings that are on 12" centers. It quickly became a mess.I ended up ordering the C9 stringers from CDI that were on 18" centers. That left enough slack to maintain the spacing that I needed.Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCHMRT Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 I would be very interested in pictures... I am considering doing something like this on my rooflines and around my windows.LORisAwesome wrote: I also bought the C9 stringers and C9 retro bulbs from CDI.I took it one step further. I made a framework of conduit for my roof outline and attached the C9 stringers to it. The framework is attached to the edges of the shingles using binder clips. At every joint in the conduit there is male and female vampire plugs to make the electrical connections.When I put it up and take it down, I attach lengths of 6-10 feet at a time instead of clipping individual sockets. Since I use four colors in my display, this is a great time saver.Before I made the framework, I was on the roof for 5 hours or more attaching bulbs. By the time I finished I was extremely sore and could hardly move.I could post photos if anyone is interested...Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LORisAwesome Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 This is how they look from the ground. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LORisAwesome Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Another from the ground. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LORisAwesome Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Here is a close up. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LORisAwesome Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Another close up. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LORisAwesome Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 The other end. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LORisAwesome Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 One section. Attached files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgwyn Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 This looks like a great idea. Tell me how you store them at the end of the season? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eurbani Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 LORisAwesome wrote: The framework is attached to the edges of the shingles using binder clips. Binder clips? I didn't see that in the photos. Looks like L bracket (maybe that is just on the work bench).This looks like a great idea, but I can't figure how you attached it to the roof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LORisAwesome Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 bgwyn wrote: This looks like a great idea. Tell me how you store them at the end of the season?I bought some hooks (from Home Depot) that screw into the wall, and hang them up in the garage from those hooks. I can get two sections on each set of hooks.I'll try to get some photos when I get them put away. Still working on that.Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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