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S3 RGB Question


mmais68569

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Yes! That is the assurance i was looking for! It helps considerably! What about the power supply, where does that connect? And i don't see where i connect from the computer, no cat5 connections.

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drivemewilder wrote:

What about the power supply, where does that connect? And i don't see where i connect from the computer, no cat5 connections.

The power (12V) connects to a similar green block near the bottom left (not visible in the pictures from Mike).

Since this is a DMX device, it uses XLR connectors instead of RJ45. (The DMX standard actually specifies 5-pin XLR connectors, but many devices, including this one, use 3-pin XLR connectors instead.) Those are the black connectors visible near the bottom right (top left in the Mike's first picture).
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That's great! Thanks again Steven. Does anything get changed in the software? Under Network, will i need to change any of the channel read outs or just leave my settings alone?

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drivemewilder wrote:

Does anything get changed in the software? Under Network, will i need to change any of the channel read outs or just leave my settings alone?

You are adding a new controller, so yes, you have to change your channel configuration.

Before S3, the only way to control a DMX device was to use an iDMX1000. Today, all the cool kids are using the native DMX feature of S3 to create a DMX universe (network) using an interface such as a second USB-485, an Enttec device, or others.

Let's assume you're going to buy the 9 RGB (27-channel) controller pictured above.
Let's also assume you're going to buy a second USB-485, and continue to use the USB-485 you have now to control your LOR controllers.

You will wire a new cable for DMX, from pins 4, 5, and 6 on the USB-485 to pins 3, 2, and 1 of the XLR jack on the new controller.

You will bring up the Sequence Editor, bring up the Network Preferences dialog, and go to the DMX section. For universe 1, you will select the new USB-485 you just plugged in, and select "Raw DMX" as the protocol.

Then, in your sequence, right-click on a channel, and select "Insert Device". Select "DMX Universe", "Universe 1", and "32 Channels." (This is the fastest way to add 27 channels. There are other ways as well.

Delete the extra 5 channels that got created, and convert the other 27 channels into 9 RGB channels.

Start sequencing!
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Steven and Mike, i greatly appreciate your willingness to help. Everyone has been great! Thank you.

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Ok, so when i got home this evening i measured out the front of my house. I can definately get away with doing just 5 dumb strips. Can someone verify/alter my checklist if i decide to use the DC board.
1 DC board (can support 5 strips,$100
1 power strip like Steven suggested, $50
5 dumb strips,$200
Some sort of wire to lengthen the strip to the board

So around $350 + cost of wire. Are my numbers pretty close? Missing anything?

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enclosures, waterproofing, solder, heat shrink, etc....Obviously no additional cost if you already have those things.

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drivemewilder wrote:

Ok, so when i got home this evening i measured out the front of my house. I can definately get away with doing just 5 dumb strips. Can someone verify/alter my checklist if i decide to use the DC board.
1 DC board (can support 5 strips,$100
1 power strip like Steven suggested, $50
5 dumb strips,$200
Some sort of wire to lengthen the strip to the board

So around $350 + cost of wire. Are my numbers pretty close? Missing anything?

check out ebay,I got my strips for 21 bucks a piece 5050 150 led 5m also 280 watt power supply for 25 bucks. if you can wait a few weeks for delivery the go for it. i am very happy with the strips btw
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Hmmmm, what needs to be waterproof'd? I was planning on getting one of the LOR enclosures used for my PC's. I know people that can solder for me...what needs to be soldered? This is so much different than buying a PC and screwing on a few rubber pieces and snapping on the pigtail connections.

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All of my strips had non-waterproof connectors on them; requiring them to be cutoff and replaced with proper outdoor connector ends. Like these.

http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/210128048-323485474/50-pairs-4-Core-White-Waterproof-Line-15cm-long-each-male-and-female.html

Male side soldered onto the strip leads; female side soldered to the 4-core extension cable running back to the board. Heat shrink the individual wires, then heat shrink the bundle.

Power supplies need to be in waterproofed. Ones that are already waterproofed still need input and output wires soldered to their leads; indoor ones need to be in an enclosure of course.

Also you need to watch out for voltage drop over distance; depending how far you are putting your strips from the controller you may have voltage drop issues by the time you reach the far end; there are a bunch of threads on this and some good info in the ACL 101 manual.

On the strips themselves, there are all sorts of price point and waterproof levels. I mostly use the IP65 waterproof in epoxy 30 LED/M strips. They are mounted to backers, and I run a bead of neutral cure silicon down the edges to keep water from getting in the back which isn't nearly as sealed as the front. I have a bunch of these from this guy that I have been happy with.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5050-RGB-LED-STRIPS-flexible-tape-lights-5m-30led-m-150leds-waterproof-IP65-/220961447959?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3372542017#ht_2122wt_1396

I think Eddy from ACL uses the solid silicone; search for his posts on the topic here and ACL. He has a TON of helpful insight on this stuff.

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I plan to put the controller and power strip in the center of the house where strip #3 is. I will align the other strips so the end with the leads will be closest to the controller. That should put my furthest strips around 25 feet from the controller.

I was under the impression from what i've read that IP68 was the most waterproofed strip.

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flogger7 wrote:

All of my strips had non-waterproof connectors on them; requiring them to be cutoff and replaced with proper outdoor connector ends.

The strips I used for my spiral tree (5-meter strips from Ray Wu) had loose wires attached, about 6 inches long.

I attached non-waterproof (and cheap) DIN connectors, like these:
SD-40.jpg

There was no trouble after one season with all connectors exposed, laying on the wet lawn.

I think this preference to make everything waterproof is overrated.

I wouldn't do this for 120v lights, of course. That would cause GFCI trips.
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Steven, how does your connector connect to the strip? Is the connector color coded, making it easy to know what to solder?

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drivemewilder wrote:

Steven, how does your connector connect to the strip? Is the connector color coded, making it easy to know what to solder?

The strips I bought came with 4 wires (pigtails) already attached. The wires are color coded, so I soldered black to pin 1, red to pin 2, green to pin 3, and blue to pin 4.

Then I soldered colored wires to the female version of that DIN socket, and connected those wires to the DC board.

Here's what it looks like on the tree. I don't have a picture of the controller end at this time.
IMG_2527.JPG
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I think i'm comfortable enough to start making some purchases. I asked the following question on a different forum with no luck so far. So i'll try it here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5050-RGB-LED-STRIPS-flexible-tape-lights-5m-30led-m-150leds-waterproof-IP65?item=220961447959&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7584428064853906903

Would someone please take a look at these dumb strips and tell me if these are good. I definately want dumb strips that are 150 led, not 300. These will simply outline my eves. Also...why is there such a price difference between these ones on ebay vs. the ones from Ray Wu that people like so much?

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those look like the ones I bought,I think ray charges for shipping and also I think his has a silicone jacket as well as the silicone on the strip not sure about that though

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drivemewilder wrote:

I think i'm comfortable enough to start making some purchases. I asked the following question on a different forum with no luck so far. So i'll try it here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5050-RGB-LED-STRIPS-flexible-tape-lights-5m-30led-m-150leds-waterproof-IP65?item=220961447959&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7584428064853906903

Would someone please take a look at these dumb strips and tell me if these are good. I definately want dumb strips that are 150 led, not 300. These will simply outline my eves. Also...why is there such a price difference between these ones on ebay vs. the ones from Ray Wu that people like so much?


I have bought some of that strip and some from Ray Wu. The above strip is cheaper as it is not fully waterproof as the silicone is only on one side see my photo. But some people are happy to use it outside but myself I am paying the extra $10 per strip from Ray Wu and I know that I am getting and using a fully waterproof strip. If you have a closer look at Steven's photo the strip he has used is fully coated in silicone and I would say it was some of Ray Wu's strip http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209843764-329544925/5m-one-roll-5050-SMD-30LEDs-m-led-strip-waterproof-by-silicon-tubing-and-coating-RGB.html

The choice is yours to choose either fully embedded in silicone are half covered in silicone.

Attached files 313492=17125-P1051474.JPG
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Andrew Bev wrote:

The above strip is cheaper as it is not fully waterproof as the silicone is only on one side see my photo.
I bought both types of strips. The one advantage (in addition to the cost) of the cheaper strip is that it is much more flexible. I wrapped it around my vinyl windows (facing outward, towards the white trim), using industrial-strength Velcro, and the radius at the corners is about 1/8".

It's also lighter, which means it won't load the support as much, but it has the same wind load, so it could flap around more. This is not a factor for my window outlines. Also, since the windows are shielded by the eaves, being not as waterproof is not a concern for this application.

If you have a closer look at Steven's photo the strip he has used is fully coated in silicone and I would say it was some of Ray Wu's strip
Yes, those are Ray Wu's. If you want a closer look, click on the picture and press the "zoom" button.
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So would you recommend the strips i posted from ebay? I would be looking to do my eves, so they would be exposed. I'm in New Mexico and it doesn't get too wet here in the desert, but we are good for a little rain and MAYBE a little snow. My roof is flat so i actually don't have eves. I was thinking of zip tying these to a 1x1 and hanging them near the top of my house. $21 and free shipping versus $32 and another $20 for shipping.

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drivemewilder wrote:

So would you recommend the strips i posted from ebay?

Sure, I'd give them a try. If they're the same as the ones I bought on eBay (from a different seller, $23) the come with 3M adhesive on the back, which would probably stick pretty well to a clean 1x1.

I don't think you have any worry from water damage in your location. UV and Ozone are another matter. But these products are so new that nobody will know for a few seasons.
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