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GaryD

DIY Controller Mounting Stake

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Does anyone have a good DIY idea for something to mount a control box to that will keep it off the ground? A photo would help.

Thanks,

Gary D

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I just grab a 2x2, cut it to length (about 4'), make 4 angle cuts at the bottom to make a point, and then pound it in where I need to put the controller. Once in place, screw the controller to the 2x2 and you're ready.

D.T.

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a 3 foot piece of 1 inch pvc 1 foot into the ground 1 1 5/8 inch screw from the pc controller into the pvc.

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DownTown wrote:

I just grab a 2x2, cut it to length (about 4'), make 4 angle cuts at the bottom to make a point, and then pound it in where I need to put the controller. Once in place, screw the controller to the 2x2 and you're ready.

D.T.

I did the same thing with two 2x2s. Painted them black, pounded them in the ground about 18" apart. I then put a piece of plywood (also painted black) between them, and hang a controller on each side of the plywood. I have two of these stands for four controllers.

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Guest Don Gillespie

DownTown wrote:

I just grab a 2x2, cut it to length (about 4'), make 4 angle cuts at the bottom to make a point, and then pound it in where I need to put the controller. Once in place, screw the controller to the 2x2 and you're ready.

D.T.

Did exactly the same thing however when I pounded in the 2x2s I made sure it was close to a tree then I ran a cable through the cat5 access holes on both controllers and locked them to the tree.

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I use 2 of these on either side of a 2x4 screwed through the post into the cut ends of the wood. I made the 2x4 pieces each 2 feet and can get 4 controllers screwed directly to each piece (2 per side front and back). Piece count for each controller stand include 2 posts and 2 pieces of 2x4 cut to your desired length and 4 1.5 inch deck screws. You can make them wider or narrower depending on the length of the 2x4 you cut. I made 2 stands out of 4, 3 foot posts and 1, 8' 2x4 holding 8 controllers. They press directly into the ground about a foot and keep the dongles about 8 inches off the ground. They do make taller posts for those living where more height is needed and are very inexpensive. Controllers are bolted to 2x4 with self taping screws with rubber backed washers for sealing. Holder of 4 controllers cost about 5$ and stores flat. I even cut the wood with a hand saw and still only had 5 or so minutes into total build

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I went to Lowes purchased 2 wooden saw horses and mounted 3 Controllers to each horse. and for added comfort covered the saw horses/controllers with a brown plastic tarp.

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obrienszoo wrote:

I use 2 of these on either side of a 2x4 screwed through the post into the cut ends of the wood. I made the 2x4 pieces each 2 feet and can get 4 controllers screwed directly to each piece (2 per side front and back). Piece count for each controller stand include 2 posts and 2 pieces of 2x4 cut to your desired length and 4 1.5 inch deck screws. You can make them wider or narrower depending on the length of the 2x4 you cut. I made 2 stands out of 4, 3 foot posts and 1, 8' 2x4 holding 8 controllers. They press directly into the ground about a foot and keep the dongles about 8 inches off the ground. They do make taller posts for those living where more height is needed and are very inexpensive. Controllers are bolted to 2x4 with self taping screws with rubber backed washers for sealing. Holder of 4 controllers cost about 5$ and stores flat. I even cut the wood with a hand saw and still only had 5 or so minutes into total build

I too use fence posts. They are cheap, and if the ground freezes where you are at, they are nearly impossible to remove from the ground (especially as a pair) which adds another security feature. I mount my controller on a piece of plywood and then to plywood to the posts. No reason couldn't just mount the controller directly to the posts probably.
hebei%20yichen$52694837.jpg

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Thanks to everyone that responded. I was going to build the 2 legged version stand that was suggested by Wbottomley. But because I am running out of time, for now I'm going to go with PMC's idea of the saw horses. I have the saw horses and I don't have to build anything.

GaryD

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obrienszoo wrote:

I use 2 of these on either side of a 2x4 screwed through the post into the cut ends of the wood. I made the 2x4 pieces each 2 feet and can get 4 controllers screwed directly to each piece (2 per side front and back). Piece count for each controller stand include 2 posts and 2 pieces of 2x4 cut to your desired length and 4 1.5 inch deck screws. You can make them wider or narrower depending on the length of the 2x4 you cut. I made 2 stands out of 4, 3 foot posts and 1, 8' 2x4 holding 8 controllers. They press directly into the ground about a foot and keep the dongles about 8 inches off the ground. They do make taller posts for those living where more height is needed and are very inexpensive. Controllers are bolted to 2x4 with self taping screws with rubber backed washers for sealing. Holder of 4 controllers cost about 5$ and stores flat. I even cut the wood with a hand saw and still only had 5 or so minutes into total build
I am going to attempt to attach a picture of the controller holders I have made. I tried to post 2 pics but couldn't figure out how without losing the first picture.





Attached files 288294=15954-Controller-stand-4web.jpg

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Another picture with only 2 controllers attached and room for 2 more. I stack them back to back after all the Cat5 is connected, add a cable lock through them all and around the 20' mega tree, then cover with a black trash bag. Simple if on grass or hidden in a garden/flower bed area. These are cut 2 feet and could be shorter or longer is desired.


Attached files 288299=15956-Controller-stand-4web-2.jpg

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obrienszoo wrote:

Another picture with only 2 controllers attached and room for 2 more. I stack them back to back after all the Cat5 is connected, add a cable lock through them all and around the 20' mega tree, then cover with a black trash bag. Simple if on grass or hidden in a garden/flower bed area. These are cut 2 feet and could be shorter or longer is desired.


How do you get the lights wrapped around the pole?

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Might not be the best place to post tree build techniques but..

There are 1400 lights on the 20 foot pole controlled with 7 channels each running 2 incan strands per channel. I wrap and wire the pole before putting it up and will leave it that way stored all year. I can take it apart easily and planned for it but I have no issues storing it built where I am. Initial build and wrapping took about 2 hours total secured with screw in metal hooks you can get at Home Depot in packs of 50. The top is also just 32 hooks evenly spaced in 2 rows and screwed in by hand to the pipe after pre-drilling a very small hole. The rest of the tree only uses 32 more channels for now because of weight at the top. I have another 2 hours on a 12 foot step ladder with a pole hanging those strands. That is the toughest and most worrisome part of any tree assembly to me. The tree itself is 4 inch thick wall black PVC drain pipe stepped down to 3 inch for the last 10 feet with guy wires at 1/2, 3/4 and the top. I'll add a steel pipe in the center if/when I build the tree topper and double the channel count. The Santa Anna winds here have been crazy this year and all is well so far, knock on wood. When tree is up I then press in the controllers and plug away. The cords for the 7 channels are right at the feet of the controllers and the 32 other channels are short 12+ foot SPT with vampire plugs at the base of the tree all run with 1 dedicated 20 amp circuit. Very simple actually.



Attached files 288750=15983-Scott-in-Mega-tree-4web.jpg

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obrienszoo wrote:

Might not be the best place to post tree build techniques but..

There are 1400 lights on the 20 foot pole controlled with 7 channels each running 2 incan strands per channel. I wrap and wire the pole before putting it up and will leave it that way stored all year. I can take it apart easily and planned for it but I have no issues storing it built where I am. Initial build and wrapping took about 2 hours total secured with screw in metal hooks you can get at Home Depot in packs of 50. The top is also just 32 hooks evenly spaced in 2 rows and screwed in by hand to the pipe after pre-drilling a very small hole. The rest of the tree only uses 32 more channels for now because of weight at the top. I have another 2 hours on a 12 foot step ladder with a pole hanging those strands. That is the toughest and most worrisome part of any tree assembly to me. The tree itself is 4 inch thick wall black PVC drain pipe stepped down to 3 inch for the last 10 feet with guy wires at 1/2, 3/4 and the top. I'll add a steel pipe in the center if/when I build the tree topper and double the channel count. The Santa Anna winds here have been crazy this year and all is well so far, knock on wood. When tree is up I then press in the controllers and plug away. The cords for the 7 channels are right at the feet of the controllers and the 32 other channels are short 12+ foot SPT with vampire plugs at the base of the tree all run with 1 dedicated 20 amp circuit. Very simple actually.

Your correct about this not being the best place for mega tree tips. And I'm sorry my question did not explain, What I wanted to know. See I have a 15ft tall mega tree this year. its my first year with a mega tree. I have the hand crank method of getting the lights to the top. So I have a cable that runs down the legth of my tree. I wanted to put lights down the pole, like you have. But I have found not way of doing so without getting a taller step ladder, or a lift. If I want to do it that way, I can slide the sleeves on before I set-up the tree. But then if a section goes out I have to take down the whole tree to replace it. And would need to get the lift again, to change a bad section of lights, too.

I was hoping there was a way to mount a section of lights under my hook head. And as I raise it in the air, I slowly attach the next section. until the head gets to the top. If I did it that way, if I ever need to change a section, I can just lower the hook head, change it out, then raise it back up. Like I would do with the strings of lights on the tree. But I cannot figure a way to make them go up, and then still face out, so they can be seen.

Maybe if I use wooden dowels and wrap the lights around them. And attach cup hooks on one end, and eye hooks on the other, hmmmmmmmmmm.......How would that look?

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Nothing says you have to wrap them around the pole. What if you made a flexible sleeve out of say flexible black abs drain pipe that is 3 or 4 inches in diameter and make each length what you want it to be. 18 inches for a 100 light strand looks good to me. Cut the flexible pipe along its length that you selected and add hooks or holes top and bottom for the lights to hook around or zip tie to. Make sure you don't wrap over the lengthwise cut. When you crank up the pole add each section by simply opening the lengthwise slit and snapping it, if you will, around the center pole. It might even be able to cover the crank cable. Secure each section as you crank up. Maybe zip tie it together if needed. If a section goes out simply lower and unhook each section until you get to the one needing repair. It might work very well. I am on the top step of a 12 foot step ladder with a 10 foot pole attaching all 32 light strands and 20-21 feet is my max. My tree was actually 25+ feet and after attempting to put the first string on from the top step, I pulled it down and cut off about 5 feet. A crank would be much easier. I'm going for a 30' Rhon 25G tower with a tilt up base when I can. Much sturdier but will require a lift. The 10 foot tube is 5$. My guess is you have a 100 light strand. Try 1 section and report back to let us know what worked or didn't. You can always use that section for an arch later

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I screwed a length of 1/2" pvc to the back of the case, and pushed it into the ground (ground pretty soft from the rains).. just tall enough to keep the dongles off the ground.. cost.. abt $3 for 10' of pvc.

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