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RGB Strips


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Orville wrote:

caniac wrote:
ok, how long is 5 meters? how would this particular device be used/controlled by LOR?


5 meters = 16.4041995 feet (Basically about the same length as LOR's CCR's).

You have to have an LOR DC Card to control it, but you also have to make sure you can get this in common anode (+) to be used with an LOR DC Card. (I'm just going by what I've read here about others discussing these RGB LED strips.)


does the card go into a standard enclosure, build your own, LOR, etc.?
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caniac wrote:

Orville wrote:
caniac wrote:
ok, how long is 5 meters? how would this particular device be used/controlled by LOR?


5 meters = 16.4041995 feet (Basically about the same length as LOR's CCR's).

You have to have an LOR DC Card to control it, but you also have to make sure you can get this in common anode (+) to be used with an LOR DC Card. (I'm just going by what I've read here about others discussing these RGB LED strips.)


does the card go into a standard enclosure, build your own, LOR, etc.?



I don't think they fit in a standard LOR enclosure like for the CTB16PC, that type enclosure I think would be far too large for the DC boards, but since I have not seen one myself, not sure how big they really are. But I think being a DC board they would be a lot smaller in footprint and require a small enclosure. Don't know if LOR sells an enclosure for them or not (haven't seen one listed that I recall), I have looked at the DC Cards since I am considering buying 2 or 3 of them myself to play around with. But think I may have to go somewhere like Home Depot or Lowes to find a suitable enclosure for each of them.

I don't recall seeing them for purchase already mounted in an LOR enclosure, which by the way would have been my preference!

Or you could build your own if that's the route you want to take.
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Regarding the LOR DC enclosure, you should check out this thread Cracker started several or so months ago: http://forums.lightorama.com/forum84/27700.html

I read that heat dissapation for the power supply can be an issue. I am interested in what others have done to mitigate this concern. I am looking to put mine in enclosures but haven't made a final decision on what to do.

~Brandon

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MtDew: Looks like you bought a semi-intellegent LED strip. My definition of intellegence is when the LED strip has computer chips along the length, to decode the signals.

It should be controllable with this LED driver: http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-channel-DMX-LED-dimmer-DIY-LED-lighting-/270875807726?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1174cfee

I have one of the boards to test with and just waiting for time in January to test it with the strip you just bought.

When you look at the connector for the strip, it has 10 pins; 3 pins for segment (pixel) one, 3 for pixel two and 3 for pixel three. #10 should +12VDC. If you look at the online video, there are three chips per pixel, so you would see the same color every third pixel.

Some people have hacked into the remote controller and made their own interface. Kinda slow and clunky, but it works.

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Ken Benedict wrote:

MtDew: Looks like you bought a semi-intellegent LED strip. My definition of intellegence is when the LED strip has computer chips along the length, to decode the signals.

It should be controllable with this LED driver: http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-channel-DMX-LED-dimmer-DIY-LED-lighting-/270875807726?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1174cfee

I have one of the boards to test with and just waiting for time in January to test it with the strip you just bought.

When you look at the connector for the strip, it has 10 pins; 3 pins for segment (pixel) one, 3 for pixel two and 3 for pixel three. #10 should +12VDC. If you look at the online video, there are three chips per pixel, so you would see the same color every third pixel.

Some people have hacked into the remote controller and made their own interface. Kinda slow and clunky, but it works.


This is making sense now. I was thinking you were able to control the first 5.3 feet on one channel the second 5.3 feet on the next.... but being able to control every third pixel really makes sense. Being able to easily do that with an LOR DC board would be even better. I am curious to see what kind of effects you can do with this. Clearly a chase should be simple but what about a color fade? Thanks Ken

Brandon I am curious to see what you can do. Keep us posted.

Technically I don't see an issue with this idea but can someone confirm. Say I was short on DC controllers year one could I hook all three R sections all 3 B and all 3 G sections each to one channel and have it fuction as a dumb RGB strip. I ask because the price different between the RAY WU dumb strips and these 9 channel strips is about $10.
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I agree with Ken's "semi-" clarification. I was just using the vendor's description - probably should have clarified that a bit more. $10/strip difference vs Ray Wu's "dumb" strip might be worth it to me if the effects from the video on vendor's website can be reproduced using an LOR CMB16D controller. Definitely not a CCR but might be some cool effects given my champaign tastes and beer budget. This strip beats trying to make a similar effect by interlacing 3 RGB module strings which is what I was ready to do.

Please feel free to PM me if you want to send me any specific test sequence you'd like me to try out on it. I'm happy to video the results for you.

~Brandon

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MtDew4me wrote:

I agree with Ken's "semi-" clarification. I was just using the vendor's description - probably should have clarified that a bit more. $10/strip difference vs Ray Wu's "dumb" strip might be worth it to me if the effects from the video on vendor's website can be reproduced using an LOR CMB16D controller. Definitely not a CCR but might be some cool effects given my champaign tastes and beer budget. This strip beats trying to make a similar effect by interlacing 3 RGB module strings which is what I was ready to do.

Please feel free to PM me if you want to send me any specific test sequence you'd like me to try out on it. I'm happy to video the results for you.

~Brandon
If I go that route it will more likely be for something where I only need the 3 colors of the RGB with limited effects as opposed to all that the CCR does. I am thinking of using RGB's for a spiral tree(s) next season.
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I don't want to get in to the DMX but am itching to spend some money to experiment with some RGB so I'm ready for the next holiday, be it, 4th of July, etc.

At the bare minimum, I can run some dumb RGB strips, like Ray Wu's, and just need a LOR 16D, and a power supply? Do I need any special dongles to connect the RGB Strip to the LOR board? Or can you just make your own wires, it looks like the new board has spring clips?

Same thing if I try one of these "semi-intelligent" strips, need a wire harness or you make your own to hardwire in?

If I am reading this all correctly, the "semi-intelligent" board uses 3 channels for the RGB and has 3 sections addressable, so thats 9 channels. So if you wanted to run 2 of these, you'd need 2 LOR DC boards, because 2 channels would have to spill on to the next board?

Not sure who started this thread but great topic, didn't mean to thread jack, but I want to experiment too and help others learn with my findings :)

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TitanBry77 wrote:

I don't want to get in to the DMX but am itching to spend some money to experiment with some RGB so I'm ready for the next holiday, be it, 4th of July, etc.

At the bare minimum, I can run some dumb RGB strips, like Ray Wu's, and just need a LOR 16D, and a power supply?
Do I need any special dongles to connect the RGB Strip to the LOR board? Or can you just make your own wires, it looks like the new board has spring clips?

Same thing if I try one of these "semi-intelligent" strips, need a wire harness or you make your own to hardwire in?

If I am reading this all correctly, the "semi-intelligent" board uses 3 channels for the RGB and has 3 sections addressable, so thats 9 channels. So if you wanted to run 2 of these, you'd need 2 LOR DC boards, because 2 channels would have to spill on to the next board?

Not sure who started this thread but great topic, didn't mean to thread jack, but I want to experiment too and help others learn with my findings :D


The dumb strips I bought from Ray Wu did not have connectors on the wires soldered to the strip. I soldered on water proof connector leads and used shrink tubing over the solder joints. The LOR CMD16D-QC had quick connect. The other CMD16D board(which is currently out of stock and a bit more expensive) has screw terminals. I plan to do something like what Cracker built (detailed in the thread link I posted earlier in this thread), provided I can get comfortable with heat dissapation. HOWEVER, LET IT BE KNOW BY ALL THAT I SHOULD IN NO WAY BE CONSIDERED AN EXPERT ON THIS. I am interested to hear what others have done.

I am viewing these "semi-Intelligent" strips as essentially 3 interlaced Dumb strips which open up the opportunity to create some neat chase effects and color fading options since CCRs are currently out of my price range. Is this a correct view? I certainly don't want to nor did I intend to hijack this thread. If it makes sense to create a new thread topic on these, please let me know. I'm happy to do so. It sort of fits here but I also appreciate that it could be added confusion to those trying to understand the regular and slightly less complicated RGB "dumb" strip.

Merry Christmas everyone,
Brandon
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Thanks Brandon, yeh I didn't mean to threadjack either but I saw those semi-intelligent strips posted and now I'm all fired up and ready to go!

I'm not good with soldering, I can do it, just don't like to. I read Cracker's thread where he used the Cat5 dongles, I just don't understand what you do, plug a standard Cat 5 cable in, and then at the other end hardwire the Cat5 cable to the strip/device?

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MtDew4me wrote:

Regarding the LOR DC enclosure, you should check out this thread Cracker started several or so months ago: http://forums.lightorama.com/forum84/27700.html

I read that heat dissapation for the power supply can be an issue. I am interested in what others have done to mitigate this concern. I am looking to put mine in enclosures but haven't made a final decision on what to do.

~Brandon


for year 2, (pre rainbow flood xtreme) i used the LOR dc card and led mr 16 bulbs (seperate red green and blue) for house wash. i purchased the regular lor enclosure and just hot glued pc board standoffs inside the enlosure to mount the board in. worked very well... (and all of my enclosures matched.) did the same thing this year for my CCR's ...

(guess its part of my OCD...)
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Ken Benedict wrote:

MtDew: Looks like you bought a semi-intellegent LED strip. My definition of intellegence is when the LED strip has computer chips along the length, to decode the signals.

It should be controllable with this LED driver: http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-channel-DMX-LED-dimmer-DIY-LED-lighting-/270875807726?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1174cfee

I have one of the boards to test with and just waiting for time in January to test it with the strip you just bought.

When you look at the connector for the strip, it has 10 pins; 3 pins for segment (pixel) one, 3 for pixel two and 3 for pixel three. #10 should +12VDC. If you look at the online video, there are three chips per pixel, so you would see the same color every third pixel.

Some people have hacked into the remote controller and made their own interface. Kinda slow and clunky, but it works.







Please let us know how its works for you. I am very interested in it. It should work on 5050 no problems.
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MtDew4me wrote:

I am interested to hear what others have done.

I used 4-pin DIN connectors, like these: SD-40.jpg
and these:
PAN-DIN-46100-4S-1-THUMB.jpg

They aren't waterproof, and they hold together with friction only, but it's only 12 volts, and it's doing fine so far on my 12-foot RGB spiral mega tree. I'll have to post a video later.

A soldered the leads from the Ray Wu strips directly into the male DIN connector, and used some lengths of #16 wire from the female connector to screw terminals on the DC boards.

8 strips, 5 meters each, on a 12-foot spiral tree, 24 DC channels total (leaving 8 spare channels that I'll find a use for later). When I ran the strips, I turned them so the LEDs face the street, rather than the outside of the tree. This means the full brightness is visible from the street, but it also makes them sag in between the supports. So far, no one has commented on that. One power supply, in a Rubbermaid box. It has seen rain, and the display is still running.
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I decided to jump in. I purchased 2 of the "dumb" strips from Ray Wu and the power supply most folks seem to use. I went with the 60/m LED hopefully they are usable and I didn't goof. I couldn't find what most people use the 30 or 60.

I also purchased one LOR DC board. I think now I just need an enclosure for the DC board and some wire/connectors for the strips. Where do most of you get that stuff? Thanks

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TitanBry77 wrote:

I decided to jump in. I purchased 2 of the "dumb" strips from Ray Wu and the power supply most folks seem to use. I went with the 60/m LED hopefully they are usable and I didn't goof. I couldn't find what most people use the 30 or 60.

I also purchased one LOR DC board. I think now I just need an enclosure for the DC board and some wire/connectors for the strips. Where do most of you get that stuff? Thanks


Most seem to use the 30 LED/metre as its brighter than anything you would already have in your display. The 60 LED/Metre is so damn bright but that may not be a bad thing at all for you.
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Technology is constantly changing; the RGB strips started out as 30 LEDs per meter, then 60 and now 144 per meter for those of you who want blindingly bright displays. Or if you want to run a frosted tube over them like the dryer vent trick (in another thread).

My next toy is to play with an intellegent "6803" type of strip, which is the same kind as the CCR, but without the LOR interface and the custom macros starting at address 151.

This 6803 combination should give me a 50 channel RGB strip where I control each of the pixels individually. With the Chase Tool and RGB Color Tool, I should come up with something very similar to the CCR, but at half the price.

In addition to the strip, there are discrete RGB LEDs connected with 4 conductor wires. See http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209889132-474536611/led-pixel-module-LPD6803-DC5V-input-IP68-50pcs-a-string.html

These should work the same way, but be much more flexible around corners and other props.

Although these cannot be driven directly by the LOR protocol, they can be driven by a DMX controller. Cheapest DMX interface coming out or your computer would be LOR's own USB-485 with a custom made RJ45-to-DMX cable (see other threads on making this). Then you take the DMX signal and send it to one of Ray Wu's controllers.

He offers this kit: http://www.aliexpress.com/fm-store/701799/209843764-491662850/5m-DC12V-LPD6803-digital-led-flexible-strip-with-DMX-LPD6803-controller-waterproof-by-silicon-tubing.html

There are other threads in the LOR forum that discuss interfacing these items in great detail. Do you own search and read a lot. I'll post what I find out, but I'm busy until late January to play with these new toys. But eager.

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Ken, I'm working with the 6803 strips from Ray now. Once I have finished playing I will report back. Remember the strips are 12v and the nodes are 5v. In cases of running the nodes, power may need to be added at both ends of the node string.

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I have a quick question. Why couldn't you connect any RGB strip to a DMX Driver PX24500 LED - 12 - 24VDC 5A, then connect it to the LOR system? I see that LOR made a control box with a cat5 plug in; but that is the only difference I am seeing with the cosmic color ribbons and any other ribbon.

Connect:

http://www.ecolightled.com/product/dmx_driver_px24500_rgb_led/dmx_lighting_control

to

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/458298792/waterproof_lighting_strip.html?s=p

shouldn't that work?

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