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leepad179

hi all

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What model controller?

Did you build it or buy it assembled?

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so assuming the seller sold you a working controller:

1. power it off

2. turn both address rotary switches to 0

3. wait 1 minute

4. power unit back up

5. set desired address

6. test

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DonFL wrote:

so assuming the seller sold you a working controller:

1. power it off

2. turn both address rotary switches to 0

3. wait 1 minute

4. power unit back up

5. set desired address

6. test


ok i do that 2 mos i tested 9 -16 and 11 stayed on all time 2 so i hope it works thank u 4 ur time

lee

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leepad179 wrote:

DonFL wrote:
so assuming the seller sold you a working controller:

1. power it off

2. turn both address rotary switches to 0

3. wait 1 minute

4. power unit back up

4a. power back down

5. set desired address

6. test


ok i do that 2 mos i tested 9 -16 and 11 stayed on all time 2 so i hope it works thank u 4 ur time

lee
Just a minor correction in 4a. Lee please do not use texting here so we all can fully understand you. Thanks.

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So 5a...turn unit back on before testing...:P

Lee..if I'm understanding your shorthand, the problem has moved to channel 11...did the issue with channel 2 clear?

If so, I'd do two things:

1. confirm with the seller it is a fully working controller he sold you

2. give the board a good once over, especially all socketed chips, to ensure nothing popped out during shipping.

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he said it was all gd but then he sais it was hes mates the prob is with 2 and 11 they just stay on all time il give it ago whaen i get up thank u so much for ur help

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If channel 2 and 11 stay on all the time, it sounds like the triacs are blown and will need to be replaced.

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leepad..I'd be realllly suspicious about whether you truly got a 100% working controller...if you do have bad (shorted) triacs, its not like they get damaged in shipping...unless they physically get busted due to some incredibly rough handling.

But give the board a once over as mentioned...and for those of us who don't do text message speak (even when we text message), please write out your replies so we can help you as much as possible.

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Its not text-writing, its the command of the english language problem... he's not a native english speaker..

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i am a native english speaker..

but im not good at spelling at all and i live in uk all my life so you can on get much more native english man then me

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More importantly, whats the latest on your controller?

Did you check the items we recommended, especially verifying the board looks ok as far as chips in sockets, no broken components?

Most importantly, you need an honest answer from the seller re whether it was functioning 100%.

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i looked it all over and looks ok and i did what you all said and still 2 and 11 stays on but im ok with that as its my 1st time i can run on 14 and when i get a new 1 i get it from lor or some 1 on here .

i wood say the seller was lieing as i found out it was not he s .

thank you all for ur help



lee uk

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If this board was mine. And the fact that I have been troubleshooting electronics all of my life. I would take a DVM and see if the gate is on or off of the two triacs (2 & 11). If not, then the traic has been popped (shorted) and will always be on. Replace triac if you dont have a DVM. This will more than likely fix the problem.

If you have DVM and the gate is not on, then I would check if the opto-isolator is being turned on via the input. If it is getting a turn on / off at the input. Then is the output turning on and off. If it is always on, then replace the opto chip.

If none of the above makes sense to you (aka I am speaking greek). Then send it to LOR for repair, or find someone in the UK that does know electronics.

And mate, you need to work on your writing skills. Bloody hard to understand you, esp. when you start writing like your texting via a cell phone. That's fine for saying hi to your bloke, but does not bode well with technical stuff. Cheers

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