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How to simulate a Flickering Candle effect

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Mtrumbull wrote:

The CTB16PC will also work, the key is the isolated input on 1-8 so you can run a different AC power in. 9-16 must be 120V to power the board. Thought about removing the transformer to isolate 9-16 as to have 32 channels capable of 120V xmas lights or 12V summer lights.


Could you please elaborate more on that highlighted in red. I'm not certain I completely understand what is required to make the CTB16PC capable of doing this through low voltage transformers. And I sure don't want to damage any controllers by doing something incorrectly!

Thanks!

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Sure, both boards have two power inputs. one for channels 1-8 and one for channels 9-16 (also powers board on 9-16 side). if you are using one power input for both sides then your board is jumpered( can be removed ) with that isolation you can run a different AC to Channels 1-8 (12V and 120V or anything in between). what i have done is added a recepticle off of the malibu transformers, so i can plug into 120V for Christmas or 12V for summer lighting. img]here
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Mtrumbull wrote:

what i have done is added a recepticle off of the malibu transformers, so i can plug into 120V for Christmas or 12V for summer lighting. ... the Malibu transformer is up on the left, its power goes to the outlet below it and the controller channel 1-8 plugs into that.

It sounds like you are using regular AC sockets for the 12V landscape lighting. If so, I advise you to put really big red warning signs on each plug that leads to a low voltage light saying: "Warning! Low Voltage (12V) only!" On the controller, post a sign that says the same thing.

The reason is that there may be an instance where you are not available (think hospital) and someone else may be called to maintain your system. Then your low voltage wires could end up getting plugged into 120V.

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That would only be the case when the controller channels are plugged into the Malibu transformer, during christmas lighting season I have 8 4ichannel arches that uses 120V. That's why I'm using the AC controllers and not the DC board. I do have to mark my outlets yet as only the top ones are switchable, fortunatly even if I was not able to work on the system the power that is would just kill the breakers and shut it down until I was back.

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I may have to try this approach. I used a power strip, with a flourescent starter to flicker the output of the 5 sockets.. handles abt 300watts, so several 25-40 incandescent bulbs worked well inside coach lanterns on the pirate ship..

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I realize this is an old post, but could you post the sequence again.  None of the links seem to be working.

Thanks

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I believe the OP is no longer a member here.  (though I may be mistaken)

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I believe the OP is no longer a member here.  (though I may be mistaken)

 

Orville keeps leaving and coming back (though I am not sure that he has ever really left--he just "lurks").  According to his current profile of his most current profile, he can be found on PC (though he was last active here yesterday and posted last week):

 

http://forums.lightorama.com/index.php?/user/7721-orville/

                                      

                        

Orville

Member Since 14 Jun 2011

Last Active Yesterday, 11:43 PM

                   

About Me             
Absolutely nothing to say here any longer. You're on your own. Want to talk to me, look me up over on Planet Christmas. 
                                                                
Edited by Surfing4Dough

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That was just what I was looking for.  Thank you for the re post

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That was just what I was looking for.  Thank you for the re post

 

+1

 

Just asked someone else about this the other day.

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