Guest guest Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Ron Amedee wrote: lightzilla wrote:Most of my house stays static anyways and all you can see is the peak. So I was thinking that those CCR's might look good just on that spot. If they are 8ft long I would need 6 of them. Or use the new CCB's when they arrive.CCR's are 16'4" each..so 3 should do ! You should get from 30,000 to 50,000 hours of life from them.Ahh, but no two LEDs are really truly identical, therefore, one may fail long before its cousin next to it. This is why I prefer "replaceable" LED strings over sealed, because I have had LED's burn out or go bad and need to replace one or more. Last year on a string that was just 1 year old I replaced a LED on it 7 times due to a LED failure, when tested outside the string, it had died and had a lot less than those hours on it.I still think these failures are from over-voltages or inherrent spikes getting into the LED and through the string via the elctronics used to convert the AC to a DC current in these strings, and some LEDs are just weaker than others, so as they age (they get weaker in electrical characteristics), they fail (burn out) from just a small over-voltage cycle. I've never ran any tests to confirm this, but think this is the main problem with some LED light strings. I have other LED strings now going on 3 years and have never had an issue or a burn out (yet) of an LED on them.So that's one thing I keep thinking about too on the CCR's, or any type of RGB/RGBW LED. As I've even had those RGBW types that have built in color cycling chips like you find in toys or other knick-knack/attnetion getting type applications that are battery operated fail, that is out of the RGBW LED, one of these internal LEDs have failed, it could be the Red, White, Blue or Green. Most often in these type applications the LED that failed is the one that usually requires the most voltage to light, usually the Blue or the White LED fail (just won't light inside the encapsulant). And since these are internally microchipped (which is the controller to make the "color changing" LED function), there is no way to test the LED itself to actually see if the LED failed or has a part of the controller (IC) failed to function?So I have seen SMD fail, which is what are used in CCR's. So, it is possible that one or even more of them could fail on the CCR strip.One time, long ago, it was always thought an LED would never burn out, and would last indefinitely, today we have rated hours on LED's. Yet, I have some in model trains that have far surpassed the 50,000 hour mark on them and they are still going strong today. Makes me wonder if the "old LED's" from years ago were built to higher and better standards than the ones we buy today?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulXmas Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 No whites just RGB Red Green Blue.I think all on makes whitergb(100%,100%,100%)rgb(0%,0%,0%) blackrgb(100%,40%,0%) orangergb(100%,100%,0%) yellowrgb(0%,50%,0%) greenrgb(0%,0%,100%) bluergb(0%,100%,100%) aquargb(50%,50%,50%) grayrgb(0%,100%,0%) limergb(50%,0%,50%) purpleI would assume if one goes out the other 2 will light.Public may not see it.It would take 7 to do my house (and windows).Something for 2012 maybe.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CKSedg Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 The true name of the color for "rgb(0%,100%,100%)" is CYAN,and for rgb(100%,0%,100%)---which you didn't list--- it would be MAGENTA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Amedee Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 In 3 color process..I owned a tee shirt printing buisness years ago'''The CMYK color model (process color, four color) is a subtractive color model, used in color printing, and is also used to describe the printing process itself. CMYK refers to the four inks used in some color printing: cyan, magenta, yellow, and key (black). Though it varies by print house, press operator, press manufacturer and press run, ink is typically applied in the order of the abbreviation.The “K” in CMYK stands for key since in four-color printing cyan, magenta, and yellow printing plates are carefully keyed or aligned with the key of the black key plate. Some sources suggest that the “K” in CMYK comes from the last letter in "black" and was chosen because B already means blue.[1][2] However, this explanation, though plausible and useful as a mnemonic, is incorrect.[3]The CMYK model works by partially or entirely masking colors on a lighter, usually white, background. The ink reduces the light that would otherwise be reflected. Such a model is called subtractive because inks “subtract” brightness from white.In additive color models such as RGB, white is the “additive” combination of all primary colored lights, while black is the absence of light. In the CMYK model, it is the opposite: white is the natural color of the paper or other background, while black results from a full combination of colored inks. To save money on ink, and to produce deeper black tones, unsaturated and dark colors are produced by using black ink instead of the combination of cyan, magenta and yellow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CKSedg Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 You are correct. I know a little about printing, since I have been in the business for over 35 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulXmas Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 CKSedg wrote: The true name of the color for "rgb(0%,100%,100%)" is CYAN,and for rgb(100%,0%,100%)---which you didn't list--- it would be MAGENTA.I copied that list from some web site.They can do a million colours so I missed a few LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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