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Strobes


sparky22

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I'm sorry I can't join this CCL strobe lovefest. Darryl might be one of the nicest guys aqround but, IMHO, the curtain strobes he sells are a piece of $hit. Of the strobes I bought from him in '08 and '09, almost 20% (including replacements) arrived DOA. At the end of last season less than half of the remaining strobes still functioned. (For you college boys out there, that's a failure rate of over 50%.) On the other hand, the next strobe of mine from Paul at CDI that fails will be my FIRST one. No rocket science needed to do THAT math...

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George Simmons wrote:

I'm sorry I can't join this CCL strobe lovefest. Darryl might be one of the nicest guys aqround but, IMHO, the curtain strobes he sells are a piece of $hit. Of the strobes I bought from him in '08 and '09, almost 20% (including replacements) arrived DOA. At the end of last season less than half of the remaining strobes still functioned. (For you college boys out there, that's a failure rate of over 50%.) On the other hand, the next strobe of mine from Paul at CDI that fails will be my FIRST one. No rocket science needed to do THAT math...


All of mine have survived, but all of mine are also the newest type where the circuit board is dipped and treated with a water resistant coating (started late 2009). I would have to assume that this has helped. I would be interested what others who have bought this new type have found.
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George Simmons wrote:

Of the strobes I bought from him in '08 and '09, almost 20%

I bought 12 in 2008, and another 8 in 2009, and they are still all working.

There were some mechanical failures, but those were solved with glue. I drilled vent/drip holes in the top of all of them.
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So I'm confused, I purchased 20 of these: http://christmaslightshow.com/product.php?productid=54&cat=0&page=&featured=Y this year.

Since these are sealed, do I still need to drill vent holes?
They will be hanging under my overhang out of direct rain, but still they will be outside in a cold climate.

They website says they still need weep holes. but if that is the case, why are all the holes filled with silicon to begin with? They say they have been submerged and frozen in a freezer with little moisture, so why is this such a problem? That is whats confusing me.

And, if I do need to drill holes, where and what size do I drill them. In the clear part or in the black base?

Thanks.

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Dan C wrote:

Since these are sealed, do I still need to drill vent holes?

Because they're not 100% sealed. There are many places, such as the screw base, and where it's attached, that cannot be 100% sealed. It is possible to keep almost all liquid water out, but there will always be at least microscopic holes that are big enough for air.

And when the atmospheric pressure changes, air will enter and exit. When the air enters during the day when it's warm, it will have some moisture. And when it gets cold, this moisture will condense. And if there are no holes large enough for liquid, this water will accumulate.

(If you're located in Phoenix, Yuma, Las Vegas, etc., ignore this post because it doesn't apply to you.)
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Dan C wrote:

So I'm confused, I purchased 20 of these: http://christmaslightshow.com/product.php?productid=54&cat=0&page=&featured=Y this year.

Since these are sealed, do I still need to drill vent holes?
They will be hanging under my overhang out of direct rain, but still they will be outside in a cold climate.

They website says they still need weep holes. but if that is the case, why are all the holes filled with silicon to begin with? They say they have been submerged and frozen in a freezer with little moisture, so why is this such a problem? That is whats confusing me.

And, if I do need to drill holes, where and what size do I drill them. In the clear part or in the black base?

Thanks.
Exactly what Steven said above. :)
You want to put 2 holes on the end that is hanging down (so clear if that is down, or black if that is down). I melted my holes using a soldering gun since it was easier to control the "breakthrough" since using a drill might cause you to hit the bulb/circuit board inside when the drill bit breaks through.
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Ok, that kinda makes sense.
So what size hole should I drill? would 1/16" be large enough or are you talking something larger?

FYI, I would need to drill them in the clear section as I plan to "hang" them from the underside of the soffit around my house.

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Dan C wrote:

Ok, that kinda makes sense.
So what size hole should I drill? would 1/16" be large enough or are you talking something larger?

FYI, I would need to drill them in the clear section as I plan to "hang" them from the underside of the soffit around my house.
Mine are probably more like 1/8".
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Well I cant talk for everyone else, but I did buy 6 strobes from CLS last year. 2 of them are the rapid flash and 4 are of the slower type. The 2 rapid flash units were installed under the eves and horz. The 4 slower unit were installed in the yard with the dome at 12 O'clock. No failures so far and no DOAs either. And MO is known to be damp and wet in the fall and a good part of the winter. They dont call this the state of missery for nothing.

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I also used the CLS strobes. I have the 08/09 ones so i took them apart and sprayed conformal coating on each curcuit board, and drilled holes while they were apart. most got wet/rain, some got very wet, all were still working at the end of last year. even ran in the rain some last year (i know, but was at work and wasnt able to turn show off!) i have had great success, just my 2 cents.

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jjdurrant wrote:

For the CLS strobes.. is the command in S2 a simple on and off? YES
Ok to run 10 on the same channel? YES
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George Simmons wrote:

jjdurrant wrote:
For the CLS strobes.. is the command in S2 a simple on and off? YES
Ok to run 10 on the same channel? YES



Agree, and would clarify that CLS strobes should only be run 100% or 100% off (i.e. no dimming--it will damage the strobes).
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Surfing4Dough wrote:

George Simmons wrote:
jjdurrant wrote:
For the CLS strobes.. is the command in S2 a simple on and off? YES
Ok to run 10 on the same channel? YES



Agree, and would clarify that CLS strobes should only be run 100% or 100% off (i.e. no dimming--it will damage the strobes).

Perfect.. thanks!
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