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Rainbow Floods...ASSEMBLED!!


Ponddude

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Well the boards are not designed to take any other LEDs other than red, green and blue LEDs. However, because the specs for yellow LEDs are the same as the red LEDs, you can substitute to the reds with the yellows and not have to worry about changing the resistors.

However, if you wanted to make yellow, you put the red and green LEDs on at 100% and leave blue off...that makes yellow.

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Really! Do you have a video with the red and green on, showing the yellow? and if I change the reds on one board to yellow, where do I find the right yellow leds?

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That's what so nice about these units.

Since Red, Green and Blue are the primary colors, by varying the intensity, you can have over 16 million colors, on demand.

For me, being able to have ANY color, or shade of a color (important to matching colors to existing light strings), I wouldn't change the LEDs or anything. For Halloween I want orange and purple, for the Easter display pastel shades of light blue and pink, if I did a St Patricks display I would want shamrock green and gold.

As shipped, the color possibilities are endless.

Look at Page 8 in the user manual. Lots of sample colors are pictured.

http://www.christmasonmanor.com/store/attachment.php?id_attachment=14



(PS - the "Cutomer Service Contact Responder" on the store website worked great for me. Greg received my msg and promptly replied))

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You mean the PDF file? Just click open and view it on the screen then. Worked fine for me.

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Bill, John, an anyone else:

Can you share how you mounted your boards into the halogen enclosure? I picked up a enclosure similar to Bill's red/small one in the earlier pictures, and it will work perfectly. There are two "tabs" that I can tap/drill that line up with the upper holes on the RF board, but the lower area doesn't have anything like this, and the RF board is too crowded to add additional holes into. I considered just mounting the board from the top holes, but that didn't seem quite right either...

-Tim

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Tim,

I am not 100% certain how those guys did it, but when I did the proto's I went to Lowe's and got 1" stand-offs. I think they were like 10 for a quarter. I than screwed the board into them and hot glued the stand offs to the glass of the case. That is how they were attached in the video on the site.

Greg

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Or use the plastic printed circuit board standoffs from Ratshack glued to the glass with hotglue or expoxy or superglue

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Ah, so everyone's gluing to the glass. I was trying to glue to the back :)

We'll see what I come up with, thanks for the info.

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Greg, where did you find the standoffs at Lowes? I was just there a bit ago for some other things and looked for them (both in electrical and the hardware dept). I've been known to be blind though :)

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Tim Fischer wrote:

Ah, so everyone's gluing to the glass. I was trying to glue to the back :)



lol, the Mighty Minis I built were designed to screw to the back of a particular size lamp housing. Greg made the Rainbows so they can be used with almost any lamp housing



EDIT: I have both Mighty Minis and Rainbows, just so there is no confusion with my statement above.
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Tim Fischer wrote:

Greg, where did you find the standoffs at Lowes?  I was just there a bit ago for some other things and looked for them (both in electrical and the hardware dept).  I've been known to be blind though :)


Tim,

They were in the hardware section with all the screws and bolts.
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Ponddude wrote:

Tim Fischer wrote:
Greg, where did you find the standoffs at Lowes? I was just there a bit ago for some other things and looked for them (both in electrical and the hardware dept). I've been known to be blind though :)


Tim,

They were in the hardware section with all the screws and bolts.

Hmmm, that's where I mainly looked. Either ours doesn't have them or I'm blind :)
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I used the standoffs Radio Shack sells, but they are expensive $3 for 4, and I also glued them to the glass. Make sure you rough the spots up on the glass with a dremel or something to make them stick better. I'm going to look at Lowes to see if I can find them cheaper, since I'm going to be making a few of them.

Bill

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Tim,

Since you live in such a cold climate, or anybody for that matter, make sure you get an adhesive that will hold up under those temperatures, if this is the way you decide to go. I made the mistake of using the wrong hot melt stick one year for a project, and as soon as it got below zero, everything I had glued fell off.

Bill

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Yikes, even though I've soldered quite a bit in the past, I evidently wired up my RF so badly that I now have 2 dead channels on my CMB16D, and no idea where to begin troubleshooting the problem.

See this thread for more info:
http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/forum76/22372.html

Maybe I'll submit it to failblog as "LED Flood Assembly Fail" :)

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Bill Hoffman wrote:

Since you live in such a cold climate, or anybody for that matter, make sure you get an adhesive that will hold up under those temperatures, if this is the way you decide to go.
A good adhesive for affixing metal to glass is the rear view mirror repair kit at the auto stores. You could probably two units (8) stand offs before it runs out

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My first try to add a photo

2167657320101994565S500x500Q85.jpg

Here is my flood mounted in the fixture. The inside of the fixture has just a slight taper so the PCB sits in there and I used some hot glue to hold it in place. Will see how it lasts.

One thing I noticed is that the red LEDs dont seem near as bright on this one as the other two I made earlier. That's strange, Yellow seems still a bit green. Need to take it outside in the dark yet

2497996510101994565S500x500Q85.jpg

Rick

BTW, I found out how much work you can make for yourself when you solder in one of these LEDs the wrong way. Greg was right it is best to just break it off and try to clean out the holes but it was a pain.

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