Rainbow Floods...ASSEMBLED!!

[Ponddude]

Robsaus wrote:

Greg

Ok I'm starting to get all the supplies I need to put the rainbow floods in the work light casing and was wondering if there is anyway to put the RJ45 connector on the back side so you can use the RJ-45 ECS connector.  Im thinking ahead just incase it fails it would be easy to unplug instead of cutting the cable off.  I dont have a board in front of me so im just brainstorming....  thanks  Rob

Well, I have to be honest, this was an initial design idea we had. However, because of the way the jacks are made, when you try and install them on the back side, you will notice the notice it doesn't fit. The holes are completely backwards. Now, this doesn't mean that they can't go on the back, we would just have to design a different part in the board editor.

Ron,

That makes complete sense. As the resistors start to heat up, they lose their efficiency. Nothing out of the ordinary there. That is why (not to send a vote for the "other" guy) constant current technology is better. You don't lose all that energy....

[Tim Fischer]

Question for John Bullard or anyone else who has painted their enclosures black:

When I built my 'prototype' I used a good-quality Krylon black spray, giving the disassembled former halogen yellow fixture several light coats. But the finish is very fragile - even now, 3-4 weeks later, it scratches off with a very light fingernail rub, revealing the yellow below.

What did I do wrong, that I can correct when I build the rest of my floods?

Thanks!
-Tim

[Guest guest]

rstately wrote:

OK, I'm not an "electrical guy".
I tested mine and, "all on" read 0.75 Amps.
But I noticed when it started warming up the current started slowly rising.
in about 15 minutes it read 0.93 Amps.
So is that normal? Did I solder bad?
I don't know?:shock:


Ron

Components heat, characteristics change, both the resistors, and even the LEDs, from an internal resistance standpoint. It's normal..likely nothing to do with your soldering skills in this case.

Overall, my sense is typical draw is about an amp max, all LEDs on.

[Denny]

Tim Fischer wrote:

Question for John Bullard or anyone else who has painted their enclosures black:

When I built my 'prototype' I used a good-quality Krylon black spray, giving the disassembled former halogen yellow fixture several light coats. But the finish is very fragile - even now, 3-4 weeks later, it scratches off with a very light fingernail rub, revealing the yellow below.

What did I do wrong, that I can correct when I build the rest of my floods?

Thanks!
-Tim

Tim,

I think it is because the paint finish is so smooth and baked onto the fixture. You would need to "rough up" the original surface somehow. I though about sandpaper, but with all the fins and contours of the enclosure, I dismissed that idea. Steel wool might be easier, but still a pain. I finally decided that it wasn't worth the time and effort for me and decided I would just try to hide the enclosures behind the other elements of my display, i.e., mini trees, cutouts, etc. For those that can't be hidden, I think I am just going to make a "shield" out of plywood and paint that black. It would be shaped like the letter "V" and placed behind the flood.

[JBullard]

Tim Fischer wrote:

Question for John Bullard or anyone else who has painted their enclosures black:

When I built my 'prototype' I used a good-quality Krylon black spray, giving the disassembled former halogen yellow fixture several light coats. But the finish is very fragile - even now, 3-4 weeks later, it scratches off with a very light fingernail rub, revealing the yellow below.

What did I do wrong, that I can correct when I build the rest of my floods?

Thanks!
-Tim

The other reply was right on. It's all in the preparation. Just like when painting anything.

Lightly sand (I used 320 grit) to remove the "slickness", I also used lacquer thinner around the fins since it was hard to sand.

Clean well, then use a good quality primer, then the finish coats. (The purpose of the primer is to help the finish coat adhere well.

[Dave H1]

rstately wrote:

OK, I'm not an "electrical guy".
I tested mine and, "all on" read 0.75 Amps.
But I noticed when it started warming up the current started slowly rising.
in about 15 minutes it read 0.93 Amps.
So is that normal? Did I solder bad?
I don't know?:shock:


Ron

Ron

For someone who is not an "electrical guy", you sure have some great equipment toys

[rstately]

Dave H1 wrote:

rstately wrote:

OK, I'm not an "electrical guy".
I tested mine and, "all on" read 0.75 Amps.
But I noticed when it started warming up the current started slowly rising.
in about 15 minutes it read 0.93 Amps.
So is that normal? Did I solder bad?
I don't know?:shock:


Ron

Ron

For someone who is not an "electrical guy", you sure have some great equipment toys

Yes, If I knew what I was doing, I would know I didn't need the fancy stuff.

[Tim Fischer]

JBullard wrote:

Tim Fischer wrote:

Question for John Bullard or anyone else who has painted their enclosures black:

When I built my 'prototype' I used a good-quality Krylon black spray, giving the disassembled former halogen yellow fixture several light coats. But the finish is very fragile - even now, 3-4 weeks later, it scratches off with a very light fingernail rub, revealing the yellow below.

What did I do wrong, that I can correct when I build the rest of my floods?

Thanks!
-Tim

The other reply was right on. It's all in the preparation. Just like when painting anything.

Lightly sand (I used 320 grit) to remove the "slickness", I also used lacquer thinner around the fins since it was hard to sand.

Clean well, then use a good quality primer, then the finish coats. (The purpose of the primer is to help the finish coat adhere well.

Thanks for the info. I've sprayed lots of things in my life, and have never had this happen before

[rmturner54]

Just ordered 3 kits. I Look forward to building them and doing comparison testing.

[rmturner54]

Not to step on toes here, but here is a site I found back in Janurary. He offers a smaller version of the RF. These are MR16 base. The owner will work with you in any way needed. You can jsut buy the boards and supply your own LEDS etc http://www.pcboard.ca

I bought and assembled 3 of each color for use on 12VDC. 9 each Superflux pirahna led's on each.

The MR 16 spots that I bought from besthongkong.com use standard leds. So the comparison between them is like apples to oranges.

Again I really look forward to getting the RF's that I just ordered. Very anxious to see the results.

[Dan Ancona]

Here's mine installed in a HD halo fixture. I did away with the jacks and direct soldered my Cat5 to the board.




Attached files

[rstately]

Nice Dan!
Are you going to mount yours more permanently?
Thats what I am trying to do, use them all year.
I have outdoor cat5, and I'm thinking of running it through conduit to boxes just as if it were ac power.
When the Rainbow spots are out, I know I can fit them into some malibu fixtures.


Ron

[Ponddude]

I am actually working on an all white Rainbow Flood, which solar panel charging system and infrared sensor to use outside. It is based off of the original version of the Flood, which only had 1 jack (I know I am greedy and am keeping them to myself) so the light fits in a smaller outdoor halogen case. Like I said, I am working on it, so give me some time to finish it up. I actually need to order the solar panel.

[rstately]

I bought 100 white Piranha LED's about, 12 cents each.
I am going to use jumpers to replace all the resistors on the RF. Then power it with a 3.2V power supply. I am thinking I can tuck the power supply into the electrical box on the exterior lights of my house. This would be just for on off light up the yard lighting.

If you come up with a reasonably priced solar version that would be even better.
It could be mounted anywhere, and you could even place the solar panel remotely for areas where there is not much sun through the day!

Keep going, I think there is a huge market for this!

Ron

[Ponddude]

I will say this, reasonably priced isn't in the ball game when it comes to solar devices as I have found out. All the parts I am using I have purchased commercially, so I had to deal with that as well.

[rstately]

Ok, Well let's see what you come up with?
I would still be Ok hooking up to a power supply.
I'm open to new Ideas!

[Dan Ancona]

rstately wrote:

Nice Dan!
Are you going to mount yours more permanently?
Thats what I am trying to do, use them all year.
I have outdoor cat5, and I'm thinking of running it through conduit to boxes just as if it were ac power.
When the Rainbow spots are out, I know I can fit them into some malibu fixtures.


Ron

Ron, No, only holiday display for now. The enclosure will go on an extention metal conduit so is sits a few feet off the ground - for better spread.

Attached files

[Tim Fischer]

I'm tempted to rig mine up permanently at some point. We already use quite a bit of landscape lighting and it would be cool to tweak it for all the other holidays...

I can see myself scratching my head over "what color is Columbus day?"

[rstately]

Tim Fischer wrote:

I'm tempted to rig mine up permanently at some point.  We already use quite a bit of landscape lighting and it would be cool to tweak it for all the other holidays...

I can see myself scratching my head over "what color is Columbus day?"

Well, America is a melting pot of all colors, so all colors together is white of course:D

[Guest guest]

rmturner54 wrote:

Not to step on toes here, but here is a site I found back in Janurary. He offers a smaller version of the RF. These are MR16 base. The owner will work with you in any way needed. You can jsut buy the boards and supply your own LEDS etc http://www.pcboard.ca

I bought and assembled 3 of each color for use on 12VDC. 9 each Superflux pirahna led's on each.

The MR 16 spots that I bought from besthongkong.com use standard leds. So the comparison between them is like apples to oranges.

Again I really look forward to getting the RF's that I just ordered. Very anxious to see the results.

I built one RF, and my order for 3 more just arrived yesterday (now in line on the build bench behind the two controllers..). Haven't tackled the enclosure issue just yet.

For spots, I'm testing a couple from wireKAT, and ordered a couple from minionsweb...I'm pretty sure I'll go with some sort of LED spot for my landscape fixtures, just need to stop sampling and make the call on whose I use...