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Michael Rosanske

Part Numbers

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I just got my first CTB-16KD on Friday. I went through the parts list to check to make sure that I had all the part in the kit. I came a cross 6 parts that don't match up.

#1 (R2) A Resistor network, I found on the forum that as long as the #101103 are in the number on the part that its fine. It didn't say that in the parts list.

#2 (Res 10MZ) A Resonator with 3 leads, Parts list has ZIT 10.0 MT and the part has ZTT 10.00MT, will this part work?

#3 (U4, U5) 2 - 8 bit flip-flop 20 pin DIP, The part # in the parts list is 74ACT273 and the part # on the part is M74HCT2738I or 1, is that a miss print on the parts list?

#4 (Q16) 5V Volt Reg. Parts list has TL7805C or LM340ts7805 and the part has LM7805C

#5 (Q16) 10 Volt Reg. Parts list has UA7810C and the part has L78510CV.

It seems the part #'s are some what the same, But I want to make sure that I don't have the wrong parts. I have all parts on the board but the 6 parts. Can't wait to test it to see if I did a good job or not. If it works, I think I found another hobby.

Thanks Mike

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Michael Rosanske wrote:

I just got my first CTB-16KD on Friday. I went through the parts list to check to make sure that I had all the part in the kit. I came a cross 6 parts that don't match up.

#1 (R2) A Resistor network, I found on the forum that as long as the #101103 are in the number on the part that its fine. It didn't say that in the parts list.

#2 (Res 10MZ) A Resonator with 3 leads, Parts list has ZIT 10.0 MT and the part has ZTT 10.00MT, will this part work?

#3 (U4, U5) 2 - 8 bit flip-flop 20 pin DIP, The part # in the parts list is 74ACT273 and the part # on the part is M74HCT2738I or 1, is that a miss print on the parts list?

#4 (Q16) 5V Volt Reg. Parts list has TL7805C or LM340ts7805 and the part has LM7805C

#5 (Q16) 10 Volt Reg. Parts list has UA7810C and the part has L78510CV.

It seems the part #'s are some what the same, But I want to make sure that I don't have the wrong parts. I have all parts on the board but the 6 parts. Can't wait to test it to see if I did a good job or not. If it works, I think I found another hobby.

Thanks Mike


Yes it will be the same part numbers you have listed. I just put together 2 - CKB-16PC Controllers with the same parts.

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Some of what you're seeing is the different ways that other manufacturer's number their parts. Sometimes you buy what's cheapest and sometimes its what you can get. Typically these parts are much better in some way then needed for the speed of a light controller, so nearly any part that's available would be fine to use.

I believe there is supposed to be a substitution sheet with the documentation so that you wont need to question the part numbers. Apparently, it's not always getting in the box. Asking is pretty easy though.

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Thank you jldavis1969 and ErnieHorning for your reponse.

I thought that they might have been the right parts But just wanted to make sure. Better safe then sorry. There was one part in the list that they did paste in more then one part # that could be used. Being they didn't do that for the parts I asked about and being this is my first board, I didn't want to make a mess of things. I've done more then my share of that in my life:). I'm going to add the part now and give it a test and will let you all know how I did.

Thanks again

Mike

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Michael Rosanske wrote:

Well the test failed. LED is not lighting. Have to do some checking to see what went wrong.



Send a pic of the board, maybe someone here can spot something.

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This is what seems to be happening. The Transfomer and Q16 (5 vdc regulator) get hot. I checked to make sure that I had the 5vdc in the right spot and I do. I followed the steps in the Troubleshooting Guide by taking out the IC's that are in sockets and they still get hot. With the help of Water Bill last night we found that there is 16-18 Volts coming out of the back side of the transfomer. We both looked for solder bridges and found nothing. There seems to a short on the back side of the transformer on all the pins. Any one have any ideas?

Thanks, Mike

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Michael Rosanske wrote:

With the help of Water Bill last night we found that there is 16-18 Volts coming out of the back side of the transfomer.

Michael Rosanske wrote:
There seems to a short on the back side of the transformer on all the pins.

These two sentences seam to contradict each other. I don't know the exact voltage off hand but 16-18 volts (I'm assuming AC) sound about right. If you're saying that you measured the ohms on the output of the transformer then 'a short' maybe mis-interpreted. The output of a transformer is a coil of large diameter wire. It's not a short but the resistance will be less than a ohm.

If you measure DC from the 5 volt regulators tab (ground) to the left most pin (part number facing you) there should be some voltage higher than 7VDC. If you measure DC from the 5 volt regulators tab (ground) to the right most pin there should be 5VDC.

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Well I guess its time to contact the pros. I sat for a couple hours looking at my solder joints and touching up the ones that may have been bad. Transformer still gets a hot and the LED is not lighting. I tried to take some pictures of it and if I got to close with the camera, you coulded see it very well at all and to far away you can't really see the solder that good.

jldavis and Jeff, It was a good idea, but I think I need a better camera for that close of a shot.

Thanks for the help. I'm sure I will need more down the road.


Thanks all,

Mike

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Hi all,

Just got my controller back today from LOR. They got it to work. I don't know if I should tell what I did wrong, But I will just to help out other newbies.

This is what they found. The U5 (8 bit-flip- flop 20 pin DIP) was put in the wrong way. Now I feel like a DIP :D. I checked and checked and checked that board to make sure that I had every thing put in the right way. I guess I looked at it for such a long time that It looked like every thing was in the right way :shock:. The best part was that they added, PS nice soldering work! That gave me a warm feeling all over. This was the first board the I have done.


So I guess the lessens is, watch what the h**l I'm doing.

Mike

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Michael Rosanske wrote:

Hi all,

Just got my controller back today from LOR. They got it to work. I don't know if I should tell what I did wrong, But I will just to help out other newbies.

This is what they found. The U5 (8 bit-flip- flop 20 pin DIP) was put in the wrong way. Now I feel like a DIP :D. I checked and checked and checked that board to make sure that I had every thing put in the right way. I guess I looked at it for such a long time that It looked like every thing was in the right way :shock:. The best part was that they added, PS nice soldering work! That gave me a warm feeling all over. This was the first board the I have done.


So I guess the lessens is, watch what the h**l I'm doing.

Mike


Don't feel bad. The first DIY kit I did, I soldered in ALL of the optos on the RHS of the board in backward (I ASSumed too much and figured they went the same way as the 8 on the LHS). So, of course, half of my board didn't work, and both Dan and I were convinced that there was one error upstream in the circuit causing the problem rather than 8 ultra-stupid errors downstream :)

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Michael Rosanske wrote:

So I guess the lessens is, watch what the h**l I'm doing.

I learned that lesson also.

Was so excited to get my kits and get going I soldered the first 16 parts in the wrong place!!

De-soldering something will DEFINITELY slow you down...both in a good way and bad way!!

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I've been putting circuit boards together for over 40 years. Every once in a while, the obvious isn't so much.:D

The guy's at LOR probably saw it immediately just because they've seen so many.

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