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Found 179 results

  1. How to set this up in the visualiser

    I am going to build a matrix that is 75x14 pixels, with an outline of 150 nodes around the edge. I have it set up in XLights, and I can do it in FPP (I am now testing out FPP to see what I should run my show with). I want to control it with a Pixlite 4. It has four outputs, obviously. I want four of the fourteen lines on one, four on another, four on another, then three. But I don't see how I can set this up, because the visualiser only allows 170 pixels per universe. The Pixlite can have pixels spanning multiple universes, but I know the visualiser can't. Is it not at all possible to set this up?
  2. We did a Re-Make of our Star Wars Tribute Medley video featuring some Drone Aerial Views. Enjoy !! https://youtu.be/ZsikygFc5mo
  3. Started my first year with one LOR controller. Created a 10 channel mega tree and three 2 channel each mini trees. Looking to expand next year but want to go rgb pixel with a pixel tree and arches. I have looked at a lot of online videos but while I understand I need a different kind of controller and power supply i really don't know were to begin or what i need. Can anyone help me make my shopping list and point me in the right direction?
  4. So this is my first time putting my own CTB16Kpc together and I've run into a problem. My LED doesn't light up. It did when I first finished putting everything together but I only had control over 3 channels (13, 15, and 16). I unplugged everything and re soldered a lot of the connections hoping that would fix the problem. I was also checking around with a multimeter and the board tipped over and came in contact with the support strip in my box and there were sparks. There is a tiny bit of blackening/damage on the outer connection of the resistor at station 12 but that's all I can find. So between that and the resoldering I lost my LED. I've followed these instructions http://www1.lightorama.com/PDF/Kit_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf and have gotten to the step which reads: Check for 25 VAC by touching probes to the left side of D1 & D2, if not present or low, check voltage jumpers next to transformer, check all solder connections for transformer, fuse holders and voltage jumpers. Check that both C2 [& C3 for CTB16KV6] (big electrolytic capacitors) are properly oriented. I am getting 15.7 VAC across D1 and D2 so I am assuming that is my problem. I have checked the solder connections it says too several times and C2 & C3 are properly aligned. I'm not 100% sure what it means by voltage jumpers, I've got my voltage selection set correctly and I have checked the solder to that piece a couple times. So I don't know where to go from here. I am afraid I damaged something when it tipped over but I don't know where to start checking for that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
  5. I've been really happy with cutting up my CCRs in to little pixel segments and doing crafty things around the display. BUT~~~~ Although I don't see any water inside the tubes I silicone glued shut, the rain came and with each cloud passing, I lost yet another pixel. Micro-Water damage I am assuming. I'll work on better waterproofing for next year's display. QUESTIONS: 1. Can I purchase just CCR strips/segments from LOR or other? My controllers are just fine. 2. Does the "white light of death" I see in these things indicate I should give up on the pixels, or can they be saved? Thanks for your thoughts and sharing experiences. Jay
  6. I have just replaced twice my led in my rgb floods. I don't understand why only the reds keep burning out but the green and the blue works just fine. voltage on my power supply is only 12.2 and 11.9 with other on at same time this keeps happening on both my floods. ??????????????????
  7. Two years ago I modified 10W flood lights I bought from Amazon. They worked but weren't bright enough since I have a street light across from my house. This summer I decided to try to modify 30W floods lights I saw on Amazon for about $32 each. I bought one and modified it using a 36V power supply, resistors, and Light O Rama CMB24D controller. I did turn down power supply to 32V since controller power max input is 30VDC 30A. I've tested it and ordered 5 more. They've been running in my display for over a week now without a problem. I've received two different version of flood lights from Amazon which are manufactured in China. I'm posting a link to pictures from my dropbox. Hope this helps out a few who are thinking of modifying 30W floods. Version 1: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gm9gn5ub4sfz4dj/AAABPoCWLqzGCYZNFEgIVugYa?dl=0 Version 2: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/v725t60cvz3fv8c/AACyq-HBAeHDymh_Pdy6FA63a?dl=0
  8. I know its last minute.... but i have 2 songs done for my show this year... and I would really like to have more... its has almost taken me 6 weeks just to program these 2 songs.. its only my second year and I am still having trouble programming songs... if anyone here is able to help me with some programming, i would really appreciate it.. I know this is alot to ask, but if i could send you the layout of my channels, and you can program any song you have with it.. Of courseI can pay for your help through paypal or direct deposit... whatever works best for you.... from what i have heard most good programers can program a song in about 8 hours.... as for me its taken 6 weeks for 2 songs... So i havent gotten the feel for it yet.. but i would really like a nice show this year... last year was a let down for me, because i didnt ask for help... so please let me konw your price and if you could program a song thank you... it would be a great help .... thank you in advance for ou help
  9. I know its last minute.... but i have 2 songs done for my show this year... and I would really like to have more... its has almost taken me 6 weeks just to program this 2 songs.. its only my second year and I am still having trouble programming songs... if anyone here is able to help me with some programming, i would really appreciate it.. I know this songs like a lot ot ask, but if i could send you the layout channels, and maybe you can program any song you have with it.. Of course i can pay for you help through paypal or direct deposit... whatever works best for you.... from what i have heard most good programers can program a song in about 8 hours.... as for me its taken 6 weeks for 2 songs... So i havent gotten the feel for it yet.. but i would really like a nice show this year... last year was a let down for me, because i didnt has for help... so please let me konw your price and if you could program a song thank you.
  10. Hello, First off I'm a newbie at this so I may be wrong about a lot of this. Here's what I'm trying to do. I have the lor 16 channel residential controller with built in dmx and a dmx decoder for rgb light strips. Here is the decoder : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q1N1NVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_LO0uwb15P560C I want to control everything in one network using ableton and the dmxis plugin so I can use my Mac. Unfortunately I am getting no reading that I get a dmx input. Even when I try to use the lor program I can't control the rgb strips but the lor controller works. Here is how I have it set up: Computer> usb out to rs485 adapter> rj-45 input on the lor controller> out the other rj-45 port on the lor controller to the dmx decoder. It only has inputs for the individual wires for data + data - and ground. I cut the end of the cable going into that and put the blue/white wire into data +, the blue wire into data - and orange wire to ground. When I touch those wires to the rgb controller is does change to a different color on the strip with each touch but I can't actually control it with the programs. Am I wiring this up incorrectly or am I missing a component. I think I need to get something like the idmx1000 or the holidaycoro actidongle (active dmx dongle). If anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeremy
  11. I have 2 CTB16K kits I built. One of which works perfectly and the other cannot be identified by the LOR hrdware utility V4.1.2 The LED on the board just flashes and when queried by the hardware utility, just times out. I have removed the circuit board and looked at all my solder connections, and was sure all the parts are installed correctly in their respective places. I did solder in R1 (Resistor Network) backwards and realized this just as I was finishing the last solder point. So I cut the resistor out, de-soldered all the pins and cleaned the connections. I reordered the replacement part from Digi Key, and got it in a few days later. The numbers were verified and the new component was soldered in correctly. After I finished the PC board, I could never get it to function. I am sure the USB to serial connection is OK, as the other kit I put together works perfectly. I'd like to know which electronics on this card I should check. Obviously from the NIC connector back to what? Since there are no schematics, troubleshooting seems quite difficult. Worse case scenario is to have LOR look at he board and possibly fix it. Any idea of what I should do?
  12. Hi Guys, I've been looking at LOR products for some time now and I'm now considering to put a small system together at home, I've attached a photo of the front of my house What I was thinking of doing to start with was to highlight the windows, doors, and general building outline with RGB ribbon and hang some icicle lights from the guttering. What I would like to do is build on this each year, but I thought this would be a good starting point. Would like to hear what you guys would recommend. Thanks for your time. Andrew I have the following to highlight if above does not work - 1 x double size garage door - 1 x front door (in a small alcove) - 1 x 1 large window (Approx. 5ft from floor of front door)
  13. This is my first year setting up a LOR light show and I have a question regarding the use and control of some RGB lights I have used in the past. I own multiple sets of the LightShow RGB C9 lights purchased at Home Depot. These come with a remote control and an attached controller. I am hoping to modify these and use them as a dumb RGB string in a LOR setup. Does anyone know if this is possible? I didn't see another thread on this topic but please correct me if I am wrong! Thanks in advance for the help! Here is a link to the lights. http://www.homedepot.com/p/LightShow-AppLights-24-Light-LED-C9-Shape-String-Light-Set-37207/205952111 My version doesn't have the app functionality but are the same brand.
  14. Smart folks, For Halloween this year, I've set up a show to start on a trigger - all works great. Does anyone have any hints how I can get everything to go dark on a trigger? Essentially a "Blackout" or "Stop All" button. I've played with creating a Jukebox inside the show that plays a sequence with all channels at 0%, but it doesn't seem to be working properly. Am I headed in the right direction? Many thanks, Ray
  15. Looking for someone in the Cincinnati area that is familiar with cutting and soldering CCR strips. These old eyes and shaky hands just not going to get the job done. Willing to compensate for time. Have soldering station etc. Now looking at this for 2016 season but would like to get started soon. Have the CCR's for house roof outline but of course roofline does not come in convenient 16 foot lengths so need to do some modifying. Modifications will consist of cutting a strip and adding a length of wire in the cut.
  16. 2015 Light show with video

    Here is A video of my 2015 Halloween Light Show sequenced to Disneyland's Halloween Screams Sound track: One little fun fact about the show is at 6:36 in to the video look watch carefully you will be able to see my cat Olive. New for this year are 2 video screens 1x 32" TV (on the railing) and 1x 8 by 10 foot projection screen (to the right) One thing I should mention with the video screens is that I edited the video footage over top of them in this video to look better on camera if you want to see a raw video clip of the video screens Click here. Here are some technical specs: 2000 dmx/ E131 channels 3x raspberry pi mini computers running Falcon pi player 1x 16 channel LOR CTB16PC (running in dmx mode) 2x alphapix 4 controllers running 8x 2811 strips and 2x 2811 strings. The lights were Sequenced in a mix of LOR S3 and Xlights 4 and the video editing for the tv and projection screen were done in Final Cut pro X AND THE WHOLE SHOW AND EVERYTHING IN IT WAS DONE BY A 17 year old I got the money to pay for everything working a summer job the last 2 years... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Also anyone who is interested in the sequence files or the video files for the screens, The files will be posted soon, and I will update this post with the link to those files once they are up! Thanks for looking at my show and reading this post! Happy Halloween everyone!
  17. We watched Kevin's videos (CLD) a few years ago and loved the blinding spots he used to add dramatic effect. Blinder spots aim a strong beam of light right at your viewers for just a moment a key parts of a song for emphasis. For our display, we use 8 blinding spots which go up and come down quickly without any fuss or lasting damage in the form of holes in the house. We simply bought outside water resistant electrical boxes, flood light adapters and SP-2 zip cord (Home improvement store). Screw the flood light adapters into the boxes and ensure all the holes except the bottom one are sealed with the threaded caps. Screw in the flood light adapter and wire the light correctly using the zip wire. SAFETY FIRST - Be SURE you did it correctly and that the box doesn't leak. Water and electricity don't play well. If you're not sure, hire someone qualified. For annual installation of the light on your house, use a smaller wire tie permanently around the neck of the flood light adapter, then take a much longer wire tie (Walmart) and run it around your gutter ensuring that you go through the smaller wire tie in the front and pull tight. The small wire tie ensures the big one doesn't slip off the box in high winds. Connect the zip wire to your controller channel, add a light bulb and you're done. For removal, just snip the larger wire tie only and box up the light for next year. (Photo). Have a safe installation!
  18. I often see folks wanting to try their hand at RGB, but they're not sure how to install them. The RGB strips are fragile and need support or they'll quickly fail. Unfortunately, that would dictate lots of work, but we wanted a fast, cheap and easy way to mount our RGB strips without punching holes in the siding and we came up with this idea which may or may not help give you some ideas on your installation. Three years ago, we took inexpensive 1"x2" lumber (about $1 ea), ripped them in half to give us 8' sections of 1"x1". We painted, trimmed to length and prepared to wire tie the RGB strips onto the lumber. For the vertical sections mounted on Vinyl siding, we attached paint stir sticks with glue and staples so that we'd have a secure lip. The lip slides under the vertical trim and stays put even in high winds with no damage or holes to the siding. The installation takes seconds and comes down just as easy. (photo). The strips that go around our garage door were nearly as easy. The top has a metal support for the brick which is perfect for our magnets. We countersunk holes about 2' apart, glued in magnets and installed. Again, fast and easy. (Photos). The garage door sides didn't take much either, but did require small holes in the mortar and an outdoor masonry screw (Photo). Storage is easy too. We used waterproof disconnects, gently stack the sticks, bungee cord them together and store them in the basement rafters with the RGB still attached. The roof eaves were a little different. We installed them permanently, leaving the roof eaves installed year round and after 3y, they're still going strong with no issues. For those, we bought a number of 1/8"x1/2"x10' long strips of aluminum from a local metal supply company and drilled small holes every 2'. I hired a tree trimming company to bring in a bucket truck to do the installation because I couldn't easily get to some of our eaves due to our house design and I wasn't about to put ladders on inclined first floor roofs - it's NOT worth risking injury. I handed the bucket truck guy the aluminum strips, some nylon washers to use as a backer, and small screws which went into the facia. The gap from the nylon washers was enough to fasten the RGB strip with wire ties to the aluminum. Our homeowners association hires a management company to do drive through inspections for covenants compliance, and the RGB has never been a problem. It blends in so well, its nearly invisible under the gutters and no one notices. Hope this helps. Safe installations to everyone!
  19. I would like to add a twinkling effect to my light shows his year. Some magic to my Disney sequence. I currently have qty 10 C9 xenon strobes lights that. I purchased from Wow Lights. I love these, but they are so darn expensive. Does anyone have a more cost effective way to do this. I was hoping to find some twinkling LEDs or something like that to work? Thanks! Dennis
  20. In need of help! I'm trying to control 5v dc motors with LOR. This shouldn't be too complicated. I don't need speed control. Just on and off. I have been told that I need to use relays with motors and can't connect directly to LOR. I have a CMB16D controller, or a Servodog controller that I can use. I also have a 5v relay (sad-05vdc-so-c), as well as a DPDT relay... So I believe I have the right components. I have been playing around trying to wire this up but have had no luck. I'm in over my head! Haha. If anyone has some guidance or instructions you could help me with, I would be so great full. Even if just some generic answers. Thank you!! Dennis
  21. Hello everyone, My name is Billy and this is my first year putting together a show and I am looking for all the help I can get. I have a 16 channel show with one talking star (upper lip, middle lip, bottom lip, & O-face). My show will be 19-minutes long and will gladly share final "product" when complete. Thank you in advance. Sequence requests: Let It Go by Demi Lovato Mary Did You Know by Pentatonix
  22. I have a damaged CCR and had an idea to cut it up in to smaller segments and put some distance between each pixel. Anyone have any suggestions on the best wire gauge/connectors/other that I should consider? Right now I have a standard CTB16PC controller (16 channels) and I am using channels to light a single light bulb in 7 different Styrofoam pumpkins. They only light in one color. My thinking is to put 1-3 pixels in a pumpkin and then have an extension wire go to the next pumpkin for the next three pixels, and so on. This would allow me to do so many more pumpkins and in ANY color I want! (Also a great benefit to go to low voltage and have a safer product where the lights are near the sidewalk) I'm sure this must have been done before, so I would love to hear your advice. (I searched for a while and couldn't find an existing thread - sorry if I am being redundant) Thank you in advance for sharing!
  23. OK - I was truly tempted to title this something like "Getting It UP - there" but I refrained... Three years ago with the building of our Munkhouse Jump Pole for our Mega tree, we did a good job building the pole and placing it in the receiver in the front yard where we attached 32 bands of 25 pixels. Then we tried to raise it up. I appreciated the help from my friends, but the circus clowns have nothing on our Saturday show. Not wanting to see that happen again, I set out to build a lifter that was quick and simple. Harbor Freight provided the 12VDC power winch, The steel shop provided all the necessary materials I needed to weld it together. What we ended up with is a 1 inch steel tube that is guided up between two pieces of angle iron welded to a piece of flat bar about 10 feet long, and this tube is lifted by the help of that winch and cable, and the whole thing is held to the jump pole with two square "U" bolts hugging the pole. The tube pushes under the top plate of the jump pole and up and down it goes, pretty slick. Attached is a picture of the unit on my hand truck (easy to move around), and a video link of it in action. If you have questions I do have other pictures. https://vimeo.com/138952425 Blessings.. Papa
  24. Greetings fellow light fanatics! I'm new to the LOR family, having just made the plunge last month. I bought the ShowTime Central package, which gives me access to the basic-plus version with SuperStar Demo, thinking that this gives me everything I need to get started. I also splurged and bought the Plug-N-Show pre-programmed SD card, in case I ran out of time and didn't get to build my own sequences. I shouldn't have worried... In less than two weeks, I've got three sequences completed that will provide an awesome 10 minute show using just the dumb LED light strings that I've been collecting over the past several years. I'm now considering buying an input pup, so that I can have the entire house lit until someone drives up to start the show (I live on a cul-de-sac that gets some drive-by traffic during the holidays, but I don't want to give any of my neighbors an epileptic fit with lights flashing all night long during December). So here's my question: How do I program an SD card with my show to use in my ShowTime Central controller? I've read through what I found online that looked like applicable documentation, and watched several helpful videos about setting up and checking hardware. I've launched the schedule editor on my PC, set-up a schedule to display the sequences, and it runs just fine... on my PC. The step I'm missing in all this is actually programming the SD memory. Does the show scheduler need to see it plugged into the PC to figure out it needs to update the SD memory? Or is there a secret command hidden somewhere that I'm missing? Or, is it as simple as just copying the sequences to the SD card and building the show from there? A little about me... I'm an EE/CS engineer that has been building, and programming, everything from single-board computers to artificial intelligence applications on distributed computing environments, so even if this were rocket science - which it's clearly not - I could probably figure it out. Actually, I'd probably figure it out on my own if I just continue to tinker with it, but it occurs to me that if I'm having problems with this, there's probably at least a couple of other newbies that will benefit from my having asked the question. Thanks in advance for any help or insight anyone has to offer...