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Found 138 results

  1. HI i was just wondering what to do i have two mega trees and there about 15 ft tall and i live in Wisconsin and we got about 2.5ft of snow total so my mega trees are only 12.5 ft tall because the lights are staked into the ground. any ideas what to do?
  2. Hello all. Question? I want to run a wireless setup with the mini Director. I made generic diagram below of what I was thinking and would like to know if it was posible somehow. Here is the standard setup What I want to do is get rid of the hard wire between the mini director and the controllers. like this
  3. Hello everyone.... A while back I had posted a problem with a controller I was having (3 channels on unit 01 (all on the 1-8 side)) "Spazz out" and blink, sometimes it's #3, sometimes it's 3,6, and sometimes it's 8 & 3, whatever, it's ONLY 3, 6, and 8 that do it and ONLY the one controller.... OK, So here's the thing, these 4 controllers are over 400 feet from my house (Out front), AND 400 feet in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION, we have a fencer... yup ! click......... click........... click............ click, ALL 4 controllers are on one outlet (15 amp), and the fencer is on another outlet (over 1000 feet of underground wire between them in opposite directions. ONLY Unit 01 does it, and ONLY those 3 channels.... Guess what.... yup !!! the channels blink in time (when they do blink) in time with the click of the fencer.... (AM radio, off channel proves this). I can deal with this and resolve it on my own, BUT some stuff to note: The solution (shielded cat 5 wire) actually I'm going to try Belden foil over 2 conductor, as the distance from the G3-MP3 to the first controller is (as the cable lays) over 1000 feet (currently it's just normal Cat 5 E from home depot) This is called "Ground Effect" funny that the elevation of both the fencer, and the 01 is the same (even though there is a small hill and rise between them), (as well as 800 + feet ). I tried moving the controllers breaker to the other leg of the panel, problem persists (this means it's NOT a spike on the AC being back fed from the fencer). So far I unplugged the fencer, the blinking does stop, (so I know it is the cause) but have to leave it running or we'll be chasing horses all over the place. ALSO to note is that it is ONLY 01, I am also going to re-address the unit while it's still in it's location, (software and hardware test), FMI (For My info) to see if it's physical location of that controller or software related, the other three controllers are all, within 100 feet of that controller, AND there is an extra 50 some odd feet of cable AFTER the last controller (truck out on the road) the network cable HAS terminators at the two far ends of the cable (far end of the 50, and at the end of the 1000). It IS the fencer, it's just HOW it's causing it, is what I want to know.... I already know how to fix it, just why............. Greg
  4. I was grinding some gears and wondering. 1) can you use cat6? 2) when you go to make it, does the LOR boxes need all 8 wires? 3) If not which ones? 4) Can I wire in device ends with out interference (data noise) for example head set ends, usb etc..
  5. When it comes to wiring the positive and negative for a single channel, can you only use the positive associated with the 3 channels next to it only or can you use that 1 positive connection for say 5 negative connections? If so what is the maximum amperage for one of those positive terminals if it's 4A per channel maximum?
  6. I am very excited to have found this site. I have been putting up lights on my house since I was a kid. I recently saw a beautiful show locally that was being used to raise money for a local food bank. I am involved in my church and would love to first do this as my hobby and also why not raise money for a charity. I live in a nice ranch home all brick. I have a three car garage and one full grown tree in my front yard. My lot is not very large, but I do have room to put up some fun stuff. My roof is very steep and will not allow for lights on top of roof. I do line my roof now. If you had to start over, what would you do differently? Where would you start? I was thinking just two 16 channels. make some lights dance and then build from there. Adding arches, spiral trees, etc. every year. I do want this to start out basic and then build every year. Should I use all led? Thoughts?
  7. Hi all, I am new to all this stuff and really want to give my Christmas house something special next year. I have seen the "Spiral Trees" and really like them. I want to start with 1 tree about 6 to 8 foot tall. I would rather not use a computer (at first) so, my question is this: If I buy one of the Showtime centrals and one of the Residential light controllers...... Will that be enough to make my little tree dance? ANY other suggestions would be great!!!! Thank you in advance for your help! Jeremy
  8. I had an idea to add what I call an exploding star to my display this year using RGB Pixels, it took me a few tries before I finalized the design. I ended up using 1/8th inch by 1/2 inch hot rolled steel to form the stars. Welded the pieces together, then attached 166 2801 pixels using 3 cable ties per pixel. The video below was taken in my shop, the pixels are BRIGHT and washed out the camera. http://youtu.be/Q00fdMms7qE I have it out in my display, I need to build another one to balance out the display. Steve
  9. Hi - strange problem: controller #1 in daisy chain (but numbered 7 I think) worked fine the last few days but now will not work when sequences play. Works in utility program in the lor software package. Sequences are unchanged for years, this is the second year for this controller in my line up. Power and data link seem fine. Just stopped working when sequences or show schedule is running. Any ideas? Other 7 controllers work fine. Thanks, Phil
  10. I purchased (2) LOR1600WG3 15Amp controllers because the 30Amp units were unavailable. Now I have the 2nd pigtail required to do the upgrade. My primary question is to which spade connector on the PCB should the incoming power be connected. Right now at 15 Amp configuration, the incoming power wire is attached to the "Hot Jumper" on both sides, and not on the "Hot Input". Should I connect channels 1-8 incoming hot from the pigtail to the "Hot Input" and for channels 9-16 incomint hot from the pigtail to its "Hot Input"? Additionally, channels 1-8 and 9-16 have their neutrals jumpered together with a jumper wire. I presume I need to remove the neutral jumper wire and isolate 1-8 from 9-16. A diagram would be helpful. Thanks, Rich M
  11. I have enjoyed my first year with LOR. Two new videos to share of my first-year Singing Snowman... The Singing Snowman YouTube Channel is: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCo48Ao4SogyUOk1iKfDlvSQ (only have three videos thus far) BTW: I picked up the Bells at a thrift shop for $20 a piece. They were in mint condition! --Mike
  12. I am looking for (I think) WS2811 Full Color RGB Pixels 12mm 12 volt LEDs. Hope I don't upset anyone BUT I am doing a way off topic project. I am using RGB LEDs to light up my Car's gauge cluster with a RGB String so I can control the color of the lights, like RED for dark hyway driving and bright BLUR and WHITE for city driving. I love it. NOW I am trying to find single LED bulds that are super bright to put into aftermarket automotive gauges, the ones that came with one light bulb mounted in the back of the housing. The ones I listed are for sale all over the place BUT with NO specs, no brightness ratings, no power ratings and some cases no voltage etc. These have to be under 12 mm size, run on 12 Volts and have four wires and the chips in side so I can hook them up to a RGB controller. They also have to be true super bright, something like 4000 MCP. Serching the internet got the above resualts. Christmas LEDs.com suggest this site to find the info I was asking about. So I put it to you, can you help me? Rich
  13. These are the words I spoke to my wife this morning... but lets start at the beginning. As you may or may not know, a pretty good storm just passed through Indiana. It dumped some freezing rain, sleet, and about 6" of the white stuff on my area. Well, it just happened that I was starting my show the night the storm hit (Thursday night). Now I had set my show to run from 6pm to 10pm on week nights and 6pm to 11pm on Friday and Saturday. I was working a night shift this week, and I was frustrated that I wouldn't be able to see the show until the weekend, so I set it up so that it would be on when I got home from work at about 2AM. I figured I'd run it from 1:30am to 3am (with the sound turned down low on the outdoor speakers) so that I'd be able to see what it looked like at night (I go to work at 3pm). Well, wouldn't you know I had to work overtime that night, and didn't arrive home until 3:03am... drat.. Well, such is life, so I set it to do the same thing again last night. I come home to see the show running, but notice that one of the controllers (an LOR "build-it-yourself" CTB16PC controller) is not turning on the icecicle lights. *much grumbling here* I did notice that one string of lights were flickering erratically and that all the rest were completely out. Being 2:30am I just figured I'd check it out in the morning. Flash forward to this morning. I get up, fix my coffee, sit down at the computer to check DLA to see if anything neat and nifty got posted last night. At about 10am I decide its time to go out and check out the controller. Bundle up (its about 18* F), walk out side to the controller, where I find its laying on the ground... OPEN! There it sits, laying open like a book, filled with about 6 inches of fluffy white goodness. (did I mention it snowed? with freezing rain? and sleet?) There is a small area that isn't covered right around the transformer, but everything else is packed. Wednesday, I had been having a few problems with connections, so I had been visiting the different controllers (two active hubs, two Lynx Expresses, and two LOR 16PCs) trying to figure out where the issue was. Well, apparently, in my haste to troubleshoot the issue, I had left the LOR box open and never returned. I walked inside with the frozen controller and uttered those disturbing words you see in the title. (anyone in disagreement here?) I figured the controller was toast and would make a nice doorstop at this point, but being an adventureous individual, I decided to see if it could be saved. We use a wood burning furnace for heat, and if you've ever used one, you know that it really drys out the air in the house so I put the controller, standing on end so the water would run out, over one of our heating vents to see if it could be salvaged. Jump forward again, a couple of hours. The controller has dried out... no water anywhere, and just a very small amount of corrosion (that milky white dusty film) on the board. Saying a prayer to the lighting gods I plugged the controller in. Upon opening my eyes (I had closed them to protect them from the shower of sparks I was SURE were going to come streaming out controller), there, on the board, between the transformer and the PIC, sat the status LED blinking happily. "Surely not!" I exclaimed... "Yes, and don't call me Shirley" it muttered in reply. Wishing to push my luck a little further, I plugged in a CAT5 cable attached to the LOR 485B and powered up the LOR hardware utility. ***NO DEVICE FOUND*** ARRRGH! "I KNEW it was too good to be true" I cried... but as those pesky referees say in pro football... "upon further review"... I noticed that the utility was trying to connect to the wrong comm port. Timidly, I moved the mouse to select the proper comm port. I very very carefully reduced the network scan range to reduce the time it takes to scan for the controller... Then, after sacrificing several (non-working) candy canes to the lighting gods, I pressed the scan button.... **** LOR CTB16PC 02 FOUND ON COMM 13 **** The status LED went solid red (as it was supposed to do). "I CAN'T BELIEVE IT!!!" "Oh ye have little faith" it chirped in reply. I quickly attached several strings of incans and ran the controller through its paces.. The lights faded up and down in response to the commands... they twinkled merrily when I pressed the twinkle button... the shimmered shimmeringly when I pressed the shimmer button!!! The controller was SAVED! (sorry.. there's no emoticon for jumping and yelling and screaming in joy) So, now you understand the title of this little tale... and the value of SLOWING DOWN as you are setting up and trouble shooting your display.. and say what you will about LOR's controllers... too commercial... too high priced... whatever... but those things are ROCK SOLID. Jamie ** Note - I originally posted this on another site and figured I'd post here as well as a testament to LOR's equipment.
  14. Anyone have a suggestion as to how to split the DMX cable going to 5 different DMX controllers? I can't find any Ethernet splitters in stores, I've been told they quit selling them because people were confused trying to use them for the wrong thing. If I just stripped the cable and wired the 5 all together would that work? Would I lose the signal? Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated!
  15. I'm using 5 gallon buckets to weatherproof my LOR kits during my show, it seems to work well but I'm not quite sure what to do with all the green ground plugs. Do I leave them alone or connect them all together? I'm not an electrician but I'm thinking something needs to be done with them. Help! -Brad
  16. For my xLights setup I have 2 LOR universes and them a bunch of E131 universes setup for an RGB tree...I have TWO(2) CCRs setups as arches... All I am getting from my CCRs currently are the first 6 groups of (3) pixels when the sequence runs...basically the first third of the string only lights up... Any ideas what I need to change? Should I be running everything as DMX to my controllers? FYI: I have my CCRs as the last two units in one of the LOR universes...unit 9 and unit 14...with nothing in between to ensure that there is not channel mapping overlap. Again, anyone else experience a similar issue?
  17. I'm just curious if someone could give me some basic instructions on using this power supply on this DMX controller. I know where the power goes into the controller and how it works, what I don't know is what type of power cord do I need for the power supply and what voltage should I set the unit to (it has a switch for 115 or 230). I'm using it to power my countdown timer that I made. I thought it would be nice to display the amount of time before the next show, and it also comes in handy on my 12 Days Of Christmas sequence. Any help on hooking this thing up would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
  18. I want to make a flashlight ,has anybody has some ideas about my flashlight battery? http://www.airyear.com/131w-lamp-waterproof-led-driverled-transformer-golden-yellow-p-13658.html
  19. Does anyone have suggestions on how to mount snowflakes to the roof? I have a few thoughts, but not sure it's the best idea. Also does wind ever play a part in flipping your snowflakes over? I've never done it, but I see quite a few do, so I decided to add them to my display this year. I've included a picture so you can see the general idea and the pitch of my roof. Any thoughts? Thanks
  20. Greetings All ! (Almost Seasons, even !) Many have had issues with stuck channels (full or partially lit). For what it's worth, (And those that want to know....) I'm going to speak about these two components (Triacs and Optocouplers). Triacs, are a 3 wire device, they are inserted "INLINE" with the load (one wire in, one wire out, and a "trigger" wire), the trigger wire needs to be connected to the "line" side of things, BUT, must be through some form of "ISOLATOR" (Hence the MOC-3023, optocoupler). Triacs themselves are really only two gate controlled diodes side-by-side in the same package (you can do the same function with a PAIR of SCR's but that is "off topic". The two diodes are connected "opposite directions" this way you get the full 120v AC (Alternating Current) through the triac when it is triggered on (If you used an SCR in place (NOT two, only one) you would only get 60 volts @ 30 hz. The Triac is a very simple device, for 99% of the problems it will only have 6 states of....... A) Off, no current flow (Normal Operation). Triggered (at "X" trigger level), depending on what trigger level, the triac will conduct "X" amount of voltage (in BOTH directions of the AC cycle). (Normal Operation). C) ONE of the internal diodes shorted (only one), In this case the channel will be on 50% brightness, ALL the time. (Partial Problem). D) BOTH of the internal diodes shorted, In this case the channel will be on 100% brightness, ALL the time. (Full Problem). E) ONE of the internal diodes OPEN (only one), In this case the channel will ONLY go to 50% brightness (Partial Problem). F) BOTH of the internal diodes OPEN, In this case the channel will Simply NOT WORK (DEAD), (Full Problem). The above is 99% of the problems that occur with triacs. Optocouplers. Optocouplers on the other hand, come in many types, the MOC-3023 Used on the LOR, DIY, CTB-16-PC Kits are dimmable (proportional input voltage) units, the 6 pins are as follows, If you understand even basic electronics, you will see that pin 1 is the + side of a LED, pin 2 is the - of the same LED, 3 is no connection, pin 4 is connected to a triac ? YES, actually it's a light controlled triac (NOT a diac as some people call it) (A diac has only 2 inputs, the item in the MOC has 3 connections, pin 4, pin 6, AND the light input from the LED). THE isolation from the 120VAC comes from the fact that there is NO electrical connection between the two sides of the MOC, in fact, the isolation (INTERNALLY) is rated at over 2500 volts !, HOWEVER, the outside case CAN be affected by dampness or moisture (this is where keeping them dry, and drying them (the controllers) out with a hairdryer comes in). There are OTHER types of MOC's HOWEVER the MOC-3023 MUST be used in the LOR controllers to keep both the isolation AND dimmability. Other version of MOC's are 3031 (only a switch, NOT dimmable), MOC-3030, connected substrate (NO Isolation), etc, etc, etc. The list goes on, and on. .Here's the thing, OF the 6 basic problems with triacs, the most common is "Stuck on" 100% (blown) from a shorted cord, is the usual cause (triac overheated from too much current). HOWEVER, MANY problems can be attributed to OPTO's as well, the main one being dampness between pins 4 and 5, AND 6, ANY combination of wet in this area will cause "STRANGE THINGS" to happen, random "spastic issues" phantom on/offs, etc. etc, etc. All in all, unless the channel(s) is/are ONLY doing one of the 6 issues listed in the triac section above, I would suspect the MOC instead...... IF you notice, I went out and bought the 6 pin sockets for the MOC's ONLY because of my electronic background AND my former knowledge of optocouplers, for the most part, keeping them (The MOC's) dry would be 99% of the battle......... Greg
  21. HELP!!! I installed some RGB dumb strings in my community public space and was planning to power them using the 12v landscaping power that was already there. SURPRISE!! It did not work. I tested the power and it appears to have 13V but my multimeter reads it entirely different (READS 0 on the main display and 13.8V approx. on the small display at the top) than the power supply I used during testing and set-up (READS 12V on main display). The unit installed is a Vista Professional Outdoor lighting MT-600 that appears to have plenty of wattage but the RGB strings do not light properly and are very dim. I hope I did not screw up the controllers!! Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am nearly out of funds and I am supposed to have this up and running by Thanksgiving.
  22. Hi Everyone, I'm working on a Christmas Lights Set-Up for upstate New York in the winter that uses RGB LEDs with the DMX controller and a bunch of String Lights and Icicle Lights on the side of my building. I have some concerns about weather-proofing my gear and buying equipment that would hold up under lots of rain/snow and very cold temperatures. Do you all have any advice about which RGB LED strips, String Lights, Icicle Lights to use and any heads-up about potential problems I should be aware of? Thanks! Gil
  23. Hello, I wanted to put my 12CR150s in 1 water proof box. Length of base of tree is 12' If box is in center it is a bit tight to run to left and right for the 1st, 2nd and 11th and 12th strips; Assuming I Can extend the 4-wire control cable without any issues? Could make 2 boxes of 6 but really didn't want to. Putting the hardware at top of tree is really not an option. Thoughts? Karl
  24. Hi, I am an owner of some LOR products, I was wondering - in order to set up my Arches to make a fan-type motion, what would I have to do? Like have them turn on one buy one, then close like a fan? I'm a little confused as far as the creative aspects go, Not sure if any patterns exist that I can plug into my software. Also, how would I have the lights turn from on to off, like an inverted fan pattern? Thank you!
  25. My elderly mother is a very good girl but she wanted Blurred Lines for Halloween so that's what she got! Mom is 66 years old and on oxygen but still loves to boogie and is addicted to the beat of this song, absolutely loves it and has even been seen trying to shake her bootie when listening to it. We don't have the heart to tell her how dirty it is because she loves it so much, she wouldn't listen to it if she actually understood the lyrics. So here's to you mom and mums the word. PS take a look at the clip Thank's http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OmRPExmqwA&feature=c4-overview&list=UU0XKPQABXZ2WHTVFlSrqGVw
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