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About OneHotRT59

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    New Forum User

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Trevor, Wisconsin 53179
  • Occupation
    Marketing Manager

More About Me

  • Interests
    Boating, Electronics, Family
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    Christmas Lighting Forums, DIY sites, Prefer LOR over others cause of the ease of use.
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    1 - Christmas 2 - Halloween

LOR Software

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  1. If you can still offer this sequence, it would be great. Thanks, Randy ... Got it, Thank You
  2. If you can still offer this sequence, it would be great. Thanks, Randy My email is in my profile, or you can also send to rbatassa@wi.rr.com
  3. Interested in the CMB24 and RGB dumb nodes with the extensions. email me at rbatassa@wi.rr.com with a price if still available. Thanks, Randy
  4. I had the same issue with two of my six controllers last year. Controllers would not pass all signals to next controller. Bench tested all to determine which rj45 jack was the culprit. In one case it was not the jack that looked loose. I also determined for mine was not any issue with soldering. It was the type of RJ45 jack LOR uses. With the help of a network tester, i found that i lost signal from one board to the next. If you look into the jack just below the 8 connector wires, you will notice that there are slots the 8 wires ride in just above the PCB board. I noticed the wires we not all extended out evenly. Some seemed to be stuck on the PCB board which actually caused the jack to lift off the board. After fiddling with the jack a bit, i was able to get the connections "Talk". Carefully using a paper clip, i was able to slightly pull the wires up and away from the PCB. After they all looked even in the jack, i reconnected the network cables and tested. Success! I ended up purchasing new jacks with solid backs instead of open slotted. Removed and Replaced both jacks even though only one was the real culprit. All up and running. There is another workaround to be able to extend to your next controller if you do not use the bad one last in your network. As long as one jack is usually good and since these jacks are all wired in parallel for pass through, you can use an RJ45 Type 7 wire splitter. "InstallerParts 10/100 BaseT 1P/2J Type 7 Wiring Splitter, Pigtail Type". This type splitter is wired in parallel, and passes the signals just like the two already soldered on the board. When testing this type spllitter with a network tester, all lines "1-1, ... "8-8", should fire just like when testing cable. "DO NOT USE A TYPE 8" splitter. Type 8 splitters are used to share unused network lines on a single network cable with two different devices without running two cables, and are usually sold in pairs. Type 7 is parallel. Hope this helps. There are many of us out here that have the same problem and i can say it is frustrating when ready to fire up the show. I found the same hints in many of the forums i searched
  5. Sequencing is an "Art" which i must say i am not real good at. I will admit have borrowed most sequences and heavily modified them to fit my yard display. I do not pass these along, as i feel the real author would not appreciate it. I do not advertise as my sequencing. I just say thank you sequencers, as my occupation keeps me tied up for way too many hours of the week. The yearly Christmas show has grown and the 100 plus hours during the months of October and November setting up is already very demanding. Family helps out as much as possible. If I could only find the time and support to build and mount that 6 foot Holdman - Bethlehem Star on the roof. It would be the icing on the cake! A sincere thanks to all the groups who in the past have offered their sequences for my use. Our local food pantry also says thanks, as we are ramping up to a goal of 1,000 lbs of food donations this year 2017! Randy
  6. Anthony, Let me know if you still have, and if you can send me pics via email. I emailed you earlier tonight too. Randy
  7. eurbani wrote: But is this shattering a concern with LED's?? I understand the shattering concern with a super hot 500 watt halogen bulb, but I'm not sure the LED's will garnish up that kind of heat. From all I have read, LED's run real cool and even have a rough time melting the snow that may cover the enclosure. Any other thoughts as I am in the middle of planning for my rainbows up here in the usually cold and snowy Wisconsin.
  8. I was a late bloomer, not setting up complete until 2 weeks prior to Christmas. Ran them through New Years Day night. Although it was my 1st year, 1 controller and > 9000 and < 10,000 lights, there was still enough to pull down! We had a great 1st week of January up here in Wisconsin, so they all came down in two days by January 7th. Now next year is another story. Plans for 12 controllers (192 channels) and 80 - 100,000. (already all in storage) Which means setup in October !! ... Tear Down by the 4th of July :cool::cool:
  9. Thanks Max-Paul, I stand corrected! That's what I get for an early alarm today!! My math was running in reverse. I would be concerned that the power supply listed above would not withstand that kind of continuous current though. Those numbers are probably on the peak side of the curve rather than continuous. The label is sort of misleading as most pc power supply labels are less than clear. I usually run a good Antec in my pc builds, and there are a couple of them in the 620 - 650 continuous watt arena that provide ample steady current for this application, without getting to the top of the current draw. Even these claim to be 80% efficient, and the numbers do not add up as expected. Best to use the numbers as a guide. My final link !! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_PLUS This one helps decipher those label ratings. Hope I didn't mislead anyone. The links are very helpful though!! Randy
  10. I have been asking for a large channel count controller for years. 32ch, 64ch, 128ch. I was always told from the manufacturers that they were moving toward smaller channel count controllers like 2 and 4. So I just made my own. Steve WOW ...:shock::shock::shock: That picture has to be Photoshopped :D Nice Job !
  11. WeissWelsh wrote: Let me just make sure about something. Since I am only concerned with the 12V, the most I can get out of this power supply is 37.5 amps, which is more than I need. Is that correct? Second Question: I'm a little confused as to what V1, V2 and V3 are. Does this mean that there are 3 different 12V connections coming out of the power supply? If so, how do I know which ones they are? Third Question: A long time ago I looked at someone's explanation of how to use an ATX power supply and they said to combine ALL the black wires and combine ALL the yellow wires. But since there is a V1, V2 and V3, something tells me I'm not supposed to combine these........ or am I? Bob Here is a link to a video on how to make a bench supply out of an ATX power supply. In essence, this is what you are attempting to do. http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply To answer one of your first questions as to how much juice your power supply will give, you must remember that the watts stated are the maximum wattage it can supply through all the rails and voltages. A 600 watt power supply draws just that if pushed to it. But, depending on the quality of the power supply, what you get out of it is much less. In your case, your power supply is about 75% efficient. So if you do the math, 51 amps * 75% = 38.25. This is probably the safe amperage you will get before you start to fry the whole power supply. On each your 12V1 and 12V2 rails, if you push past 13 amps, you will be pushing it internally. Fuses will start to pop!! Also depends on the design, as most lower priced multi rail power supplies are really one power supply split internally to protect the thin lines to the PC. Here is another link that explains some of the difference of multi-rail power supplies!! http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3990 Good Luck, as I plan on doing the same thing in 2012!! Randy
  12. Surfing4Dough wrote: I like the two rotations in the dual layer tree effect. Are both 16 channels? (Inner spiral and outer straight layer?) Thanks, Randy
  13. Well Lets see... 16 Channel LOR or ... an I-Pad ?? I agree ... 16 channel LOR .. You will get many more smiles with LOR :D:D
  14. I just go to the local Red Light District and pick up my temporary help .:D
  15. I am using a spool of Kester 44. Not as clean as 245, but it has worked great for me.
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