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Westport Lights

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About Westport Lights

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  1. The local Radio Shack doesn't have them, but I bought a few online, they should be here later this week. Thanks for the input everyone.
  2. Thanks so much for the replies. Yes, it is a power supply card. The unit still functions fine, but I'm worried that damage will be caused if it's not replaced in the long run. I'll remove the old one right away. Should I be look for a tantalum capacitor then or a newer style electrolytic? Any ideas where to find one or what size/spec is needed? 10+ 35v+ is marked on it. Does that mean it's 10uF 35v+ ?
  3. This board is part of a power supply unit for a early 80's lighting control board. It has a piece that's blown and I'm trying to repair. Can anyone tell me what the little green things are? They have 10+ 35V+ printed on them. I'm thinking capacitors, but want verification before I get one and solder it in. Attached files
  4. Provided that your wire gauging, circuit breakers and all other elements are rated for 20 amps, then: 16amps is 80% of 20amps. This is the 80% marker, you want to try and keep your loads under 16 amps. 14.73 < 16amps. You're fine.
  5. Yup, and we're using a video called "Hallowindow"
  6. Not the best video in the world, but hopefully you get the idea. http://www.facebook.com/v/1314875851480 http://www.facebook.com/v/1314875851480
  7. I'm assuming that these are not LEDs. I can not give any advise that would pertain specifically to 240v since I do not use that here. Are you using a computer or director card? Can you turn off the stuck channels using the hardware utility? Are florescent lights being used anywhere in the house?
  8. Bosevents wrote: Your lights are likely to be the issue. Without a generic answer, please tell us the brand, type, count, etc. as best as possible. This will help in diagnosing your problem.
  9. The first few nights this year I noticed a few of my sequences had a few channels that would miss a command here and there. Nothing too noticeable by onlookers, but I know the sequencing by heart. I now run at the fast speed and have not seen any issues so far. My longest Cat5 run is 100 feet from the nearest controller and I'm using 7 controllers with varying distances from 3 feet to 100 feet. I am also using the "lock step" option.
  10. Only if you have the jumpers, connecting bank 1 and 2 in place. That is used for single input, which only 1 fuse is needed then.
  11. WHat about just using a phone cable instead of Cat5 on that one?
  12. I have two eight foot, seven channel arches made with rope light. It's not easy wrapping 3/4" pipe, but I imagine you'll be using larger pipe for the driveway so it should be much easier. Hose clamps and zip ties help hold the light in place and keep it from unwinding on itself. It's also easier to wrap the rope when it's lit since the rope light seems softer when warm.
  13. My guess is that the one you are looking at will not work. It depends on the sine wave created by the inverter. Some work, some do not. I ran tests with several that I have on hand and only the pure sine wave one in my work van operated the display correctly, that inverter is really expensive though (Heart Interface). I opted for another, cheaper approach. I used a cheap inverter to charge and maintain UPS unit designed for computers. The UPS that I have includes a built in power conditioner to regulate the sine wave and voltage overages/shortages. This worked pretty well.
  14. In the sequence editor, goto EDIT > Preferences > Display Preferences. Under "Animation Redraw Throttling" I have the best animation when that is set to LOW. Worth a check. My computer has a high end video card, so this may be why it's better for me.
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