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Richard Hamilton

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Everything posted by Richard Hamilton

  1. grump010 wrote: Daryl, first determine if this is a light load problem that requires a snubber (it was in my case). Connect a string of regular incandescent bulbs or some other type of light load (non LEDs) on the same channel as your Red mininosweb lights. If the mininosweb lights start fading better, then it is an indication you need a snubber. In that case, see my instruction on how to made a simple snubber in just a couple minutes with a resistor and a 75 cents clam shell connector from a hardware store. http://magiclightshow.com/bb/index.php?topic=41.0
  2. FYI.... in my case, I had to use a "snubber" in order to get the lamps to fade smoothly, especially on the red. Apparently they are only half-wave rectified so the triacs shut off at low dim values if a constant load is not atached.
  3. HA! That is neat, and funny. Nice job. Looks like a lot of work. I'm not a Halloween LOR kind of guy as I have enough to do just to prepare for Christmas. Never the less, it would be interesting to know how you do it.
  4. They work on my system. In fact I would expect most types of these LED lights to work. I think it would be more unusual if they didn't work than to find ones that have trouble.
  5. That's very odd, and interesting to know. I often number my sequences the same way so I will keep that in mind. Thanks for coming back and posting your solution.
  6. Scratching head ??? You are doing the right things. When you select a sequence file from the list, it should show in the listbox. Right, the hardware utility will copy the sequences and other information to the SD card when you click "Create Show", but it appears you can't get that far. Maybe something is wrong with the sequence file. Have you tried creating another very simple sequence or tried loading a sample sequence?
  7. Dr. Jones wrote: Right... which is why I say it should work without trouble if no dimming is used. There is also a possible motor stall and burn out problem if you accidentially apply a low (dim) voltage for a long time.
  8. Hey Daniel, I looked at the page, but did not read through it. My only suggestion at this time has nothing to do with the content, but has to do with the page layout. I was really straining to read the page because of the dark blue on black. After just 30 seconds, I couldn't really read much more and closed it out. Other combinations of graphics cards and monitors may not appear as clean as yours when other people are looking at it. Thus, a bit better contract would help. Not that you are doing it, but also stay away from red and blue combinations. Color-blind people (7% of male population) can't read that combination.
  9. Frank Rossi wrote: Maybe someone misinformed you. I see no reason why you would need a relay. It is a fairly simple 120 VAC device. I think the only thing you would want to be careful about is to make sure you do a full on or full off control, and not do any voltages (fading).
  10. It sounds like two unrelated things going on. LOT not showing up in the Hardware Utility might be caused by not having the com port set correctly. At least that seems to be the most common issue I run across. As for channel two not working, hmmm that could be a bunch of things... solder joint, missing part not installed, diodes installed backwards, etc.
  11. Ah, that makes sense and does not surprise me. Getting those Microsoft system files is practically always the solution to an ActiveX problem. Glad to see you are up and running.
  12. Ralph A wrote: Ralph, just one other comment here that you may have thought about, but I wanted to mention it just in case. If you upgrade to a 200 Amp service (400 Amps at 120 vac), you can't assume that you are fully covered if you are pulling 370 amps. You would only be covered if you very even loaded each circuit breaker in the panel. That is rarely a reality.
  13. Bryan, I have to run out all day, but I saw this note. I'll reply later tonight by PM. I think the glitch you are having is unusual, and I am quite certain it is due to one or two missing files that normally ship with the computer. Not every computer manufacturer will ship the same core set nor the same versions of Microsoft shared DLL and that is likely the issue. No matter how many times you uninstall, regwipe, and reinstall LOR, I'll bet big money it will not solve the problem because you will still be missing the core dependency DLL file that should be located in the system32 folder and originally placed there by the computer vendor. What I am trying to say (obviously not clearly) is that when software developers create programs, they almost always use some mixture of "pre-created" code by Microsoft or other 3rd party software tools vendors. Those tools do things like open dialogs, show messages, etc. There's no sense in re-enventing the wheel. Not more than 3 weeks ago, a past client had this probelm with their software and it seemed to affect only about 2 % of the customers. Once I found the DLL they were missing, they put that dll into the installer of their software and then all was well on those computers.
  14. lights in paradise wrote: Are you sure that you didn't change the channel number on the controller? If you did, then try changing the channel number back to 1, power off the controller, then back on. then set it back to your new channel. Looking back at my notes from two years ago, I had that same problem. In my case, the above procedure solved it, yet I am sure there are probably other reasons for that issue. I also wonder if it isn't due to the low LED loading. Did you try plugging in a string of standard incandescent lights into the same channels to see if they work properly?
  15. The reply from NgocHong on that link is the same thing I was referring to above. ActiveX errors are practically always due to missing dependencies. Those other suggestions in the link won't fix an "Active X" error. Different errors will come up if files are in the wrong folder or the file attributes are set incorrectly, etc. You probably noticed that when he ran a slightly newer gamma version, the problem started occurring, but when he switched back to 1.6.1, the error came back. That tells you there is a new file in the gamma version that has a system dll or ocx dependency which is missing.
  16. Donald points out your first mistake. When amps are quoted for a service panel, it is almost always at 240 VAC, not the 120 you are using. If you calculated you need 373 amps (I'd like to see how you calculated that number), then you really only will be using "equivalent" of 187 panel rated amps. My suggestion.... you can buy a LOT of LED lights for that amount of money and bypass this whole mess!
  17. rmturner54 wrote: Hey Richard, use the search feature. I recall seeing many postings about this just a couple weeks ago on here. I ran across links to example videos.
  18. Bryan, that ActiveX error is almost ALWAYS due to a dependent DLLor OCX missing from your Windows system folder that LOR needs to run. I'll bet money that the error probably tells you it is a "429" ActiveX error? Send an email to support and ask them if they have a list of files that LOR needs to run. Then see if those files are in the system folder. It's likely to be a short list of 5-10 files. I can't speak for LOR's installation, but if it is like most, they will ship the dependent dlls and ocx files that are needed for the application, but those files often depend on other Microsoft shared files being in place. This can also be a problem on some brand new computers like certain models of Dell. Frankly speaking, I would get away from Win ME as fast as I could run. It's riddled with holes and old. At least come up to XP level. If you don't get a solution from support and can't bare to upgrade to XP, let me know. I will run the "Dependency Walker" tool on LOR to see what files it uses and the one's that its dependents use.
  19. Just an fyi for other folks reading this thread who use LEDs... you are going to see the same effect. Example, red LEDs are going to appear brighter (because that is the most efficient wavelength of an led). Also at the low end of the fading, red will start to appear first, then it takes a little more voltage for green, and then blue. Like Markrvp implied, it is easy to compensate by having different ramp limits or intensitiy limits.
  20. Tim Fischer wrote: Uh well, I would think that condensation would be a problem there. It isn't just the fact that the outside air temperature stays constantly cold. It's the fact that the box internal temperature does change a lot in your location. It warms up during your equipment operation and then cools down again until you use it the next night.
  21. bcdmahn wrote: Those buttons are so you can manually test the controller by turning lights on. off. fading, etc. Of course you need to have some lights plugged in. It sounds like you have the wireless connection working of from your description. As Dale mentions, check the channel configuration in your sequence. Make sure you are using the same controller number in the sequences that as the number assigned to your controller. If you didn't change the controller unit number from the factor default, then it is going to be unit 1.
  22. Tim Fischer wrote: Hi Tim, It is probably just the weekend that has people busy. Good idea not to diaassemble the ATX supply. If it were my project, I would not seal the enclosure even if there were practically no load. One issue can be condensation. When you use the word "seal", I am probably falsely assuming you mean an air tight enclosure. The potential issue I am thinking about is condensation. As it warms and cools through use, there could be some moisture build up. Even a small amount of ventilation will eliminate most buildups. You probably noticed that even though the LOR prebuilt units are nice tough covered metal, there is still the ability to have some small air circulation though the bottom hole and tiny cracks around the cover. Aside from moisture, you mention your max load is 2Amps ar 12Volts. That is still 48 watts, and the heat can build up quickly unless there is a way to bleed off the heat through metal or air. Bottom line, I would suggest finding some way to keep the heat from building up.
  23. As John says, it all depends on how you want it to do.... and how full you want it to look. I use 24 channels for our 12 foot tree. 8 for red strings, 8 for green, and 8 for blue. This lets me have any one color, a mixture, and also the ability to do rotations.
  24. Texan78 wrote: What I really would like to hear is a "before" and "after" set of sound files of a male and female with various effects. Then I could decide if it really works. I'll bet no company is going to do that though.... because you would hear how really crappy those things are.
  25. It sounds like to sole purpose is for something like Halloween. Voice Changers are expensive as you might know, and they don't work very well for any use other than entertainment. Have you tried one of those toy Voice Changers? I used one of those a few years ago for Darth Vader and it was interesting.
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