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Richard Hamilton

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Everything posted by Richard Hamilton

  1. I'm betting that LOR John is correct. You can likely sell them on the fact that the ETL certification is good enough. ETL is a recognized certifying body in Canada by the Standards Council of Canada. Other than that, Frankly, I doubt that you will find any decent automated controllers with a CSA mark. It looks like they are going to have to hire a couple thousand of those Chinese guys from the Olympics opening ceremony to quickly turn strings of lights on and off to the beat of music
  2. I can understand your need if you want the visitor to be able to select from one of many songs like in a random jukebox style, but if your goal is simply to start the program running, you can use an existing feature... external trigger switch.
  3. As for me, I probably would not buy a controller with more than 16 channels or possibly 32. If I did, it would be to put in a location where I am using a LOT of channels in close proximity like in a megatree. Putting my engineering hat on for a moment, I might make a 32 channel controller, but I wouldn't make one bigger because the quantity of sales would be too low to justify it manufacturing another sku and having in inventory. Also, I'll bet that the majority of the market will still be for 32 channels or less in one location because only the larger complex installations would likely buy a controller larger than 32 chan. Having controllers spread out in different areas beats putting long extension cords everywhere.
  4. Hmmm, I have never had trouble with rain in all the 16 years I've being doing outdoor displays, and we have some fairly bad rain during the month of December every year. I'm wondering if there is something about the way you are connecting things up that cause the GFCIs to trip?
  5. I've been posting on MetaCafe.com for a few years without any problems.
  6. grump010 wrote: Daryl, first determine if this is a light load problem that requires a snubber (it was in my case). Connect a string of regular incandescent bulbs or some other type of light load (non LEDs) on the same channel as your Red mininosweb lights. If the mininosweb lights start fading better, then it is an indication you need a snubber. In that case, see my instruction on how to made a simple snubber in just a couple minutes with a resistor and a 75 cents clam shell connector from a hardware store. http://magiclightshow.com/bb/index.php?topic=41.0
  7. FYI.... in my case, I had to use a "snubber" in order to get the lamps to fade smoothly, especially on the red. Apparently they are only half-wave rectified so the triacs shut off at low dim values if a constant load is not atached.
  8. HA! That is neat, and funny. Nice job. Looks like a lot of work. I'm not a Halloween LOR kind of guy as I have enough to do just to prepare for Christmas. Never the less, it would be interesting to know how you do it.
  9. They work on my system. In fact I would expect most types of these LED lights to work. I think it would be more unusual if they didn't work than to find ones that have trouble.
  10. That's very odd, and interesting to know. I often number my sequences the same way so I will keep that in mind. Thanks for coming back and posting your solution.
  11. Scratching head ??? You are doing the right things. When you select a sequence file from the list, it should show in the listbox. Right, the hardware utility will copy the sequences and other information to the SD card when you click "Create Show", but it appears you can't get that far. Maybe something is wrong with the sequence file. Have you tried creating another very simple sequence or tried loading a sample sequence?
  12. Dr. Jones wrote: Right... which is why I say it should work without trouble if no dimming is used. There is also a possible motor stall and burn out problem if you accidentially apply a low (dim) voltage for a long time.
  13. Hey Daniel, I looked at the page, but did not read through it. My only suggestion at this time has nothing to do with the content, but has to do with the page layout. I was really straining to read the page because of the dark blue on black. After just 30 seconds, I couldn't really read much more and closed it out. Other combinations of graphics cards and monitors may not appear as clean as yours when other people are looking at it. Thus, a bit better contract would help. Not that you are doing it, but also stay away from red and blue combinations. Color-blind people (7% of male population) can't read that combination.
  14. Frank Rossi wrote: Maybe someone misinformed you. I see no reason why you would need a relay. It is a fairly simple 120 VAC device. I think the only thing you would want to be careful about is to make sure you do a full on or full off control, and not do any voltages (fading).
  15. It sounds like two unrelated things going on. LOT not showing up in the Hardware Utility might be caused by not having the com port set correctly. At least that seems to be the most common issue I run across. As for channel two not working, hmmm that could be a bunch of things... solder joint, missing part not installed, diodes installed backwards, etc.
  16. Ralph A wrote: Ralph, just one other comment here that you may have thought about, but I wanted to mention it just in case. If you upgrade to a 200 Amp service (400 Amps at 120 vac), you can't assume that you are fully covered if you are pulling 370 amps. You would only be covered if you very even loaded each circuit breaker in the panel. That is rarely a reality.
  17. lights in paradise wrote: Are you sure that you didn't change the channel number on the controller? If you did, then try changing the channel number back to 1, power off the controller, then back on. then set it back to your new channel. Looking back at my notes from two years ago, I had that same problem. In my case, the above procedure solved it, yet I am sure there are probably other reasons for that issue. I also wonder if it isn't due to the low LED loading. Did you try plugging in a string of standard incandescent lights into the same channels to see if they work properly?
  18. Donald points out your first mistake. When amps are quoted for a service panel, it is almost always at 240 VAC, not the 120 you are using. If you calculated you need 373 amps (I'd like to see how you calculated that number), then you really only will be using "equivalent" of 187 panel rated amps. My suggestion.... you can buy a LOT of LED lights for that amount of money and bypass this whole mess!
  19. rmturner54 wrote: Hey Richard, use the search feature. I recall seeing many postings about this just a couple weeks ago on here. I ran across links to example videos.
  20. Just an fyi for other folks reading this thread who use LEDs... you are going to see the same effect. Example, red LEDs are going to appear brighter (because that is the most efficient wavelength of an led). Also at the low end of the fading, red will start to appear first, then it takes a little more voltage for green, and then blue. Like Markrvp implied, it is easy to compensate by having different ramp limits or intensitiy limits.
  21. Tim Fischer wrote: Uh well, I would think that condensation would be a problem there. It isn't just the fact that the outside air temperature stays constantly cold. It's the fact that the box internal temperature does change a lot in your location. It warms up during your equipment operation and then cools down again until you use it the next night.
  22. bcdmahn wrote: Those buttons are so you can manually test the controller by turning lights on. off. fading, etc. Of course you need to have some lights plugged in. It sounds like you have the wireless connection working of from your description. As Dale mentions, check the channel configuration in your sequence. Make sure you are using the same controller number in the sequences that as the number assigned to your controller. If you didn't change the controller unit number from the factor default, then it is going to be unit 1.
  23. Tim Fischer wrote: Hi Tim, It is probably just the weekend that has people busy. Good idea not to diaassemble the ATX supply. If it were my project, I would not seal the enclosure even if there were practically no load. One issue can be condensation. When you use the word "seal", I am probably falsely assuming you mean an air tight enclosure. The potential issue I am thinking about is condensation. As it warms and cools through use, there could be some moisture build up. Even a small amount of ventilation will eliminate most buildups. You probably noticed that even though the LOR prebuilt units are nice tough covered metal, there is still the ability to have some small air circulation though the bottom hole and tiny cracks around the cover. Aside from moisture, you mention your max load is 2Amps ar 12Volts. That is still 48 watts, and the heat can build up quickly unless there is a way to bleed off the heat through metal or air. Bottom line, I would suggest finding some way to keep the heat from building up.
  24. As John says, it all depends on how you want it to do.... and how full you want it to look. I use 24 channels for our 12 foot tree. 8 for red strings, 8 for green, and 8 for blue. This lets me have any one color, a mixture, and also the ability to do rotations.
  25. Texan78 wrote: What I really would like to hear is a "before" and "after" set of sound files of a male and female with various effects. Then I could decide if it really works. I'll bet no company is going to do that though.... because you would hear how really crappy those things are.
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