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flogger7

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flogger7 last won the day on August 28 2012

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About flogger7

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  1. I guess I left out the key part. I use 9 segments/channels.
  2. I use segments. 100 bulbs per segment. 13" long. 1 1/4" think wall sleeves over 3/4" sched 40.
  3. I use these, with hose clamps through the back of the box around the stake. 3 bucks each. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100055558/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=3+ft+post&storeId=10051#.UK2HW3y9KSM
  4. Where did it go? It shows up in google search but not available...
  5. They can skip around. Each will simply 'listen' for commands set to its configure channels.
  6. Wasn't there a recall on these earlier this year?
  7. I have over 3000 feet from skycraft. They have been great to deal with. In fact, the last time I ordered the guy sent me back an email asking 'hey, will you settle a bet for us? are you using this for a xmas display?' I guess one of the other guys didn't believe what people like us are up to and that we would consume that much wire (and more!)
  8. Are you referring to having to offset all the channels +1 or a different solution?
  9. Also try here http://auschristmaslighting.com/forums/index.php?topic=1889
  10. With modules, it depends if you have cool white or warm white at full on. The warm whites make a MUCH richer orange than the cool whites. At least as far as I've been able to make... All my strips are cool white, so I've gotten some decent orange, but not quite as good as the warm whites. I can find the Rgb mix if you want when Im back on my sequencing computer.
  11. You should get the acl101 manual at Aus christmas lights...it will give out a lot of the background and options for using the cutoff section as dmx pixels. Short version, you will need power and a proper dmx pixel decoder to drive the extra pixels.
  12. The neutrals are all on a common bus on the board anyway. So assuming you are talking about doing something like using a 5 wire cord for 4 hots + 1 neutral (and doing a breakout at the far end into 4 outlets) it should just be a question of load management and safe wiring practices...but nothing conceptually wrong with it I don't believe.
  13. Tom, here are the exterior photos. I cut a piece of 5mm plywood to fit the opening about 1/2 inch below the surface. Marked and drilled holes for mount points; marked and cut out squares to expose the backside of the RGB+ connection points. Zip-tied the boards down to the plywood; soldered the boards together (output of board A to input of board ; soldered an $8 dmx controller to input of board A; attached the 2 pin cable for power and the Cat5 for DMX signal. Yes I know my 2-pin power cables are all backwards but my whole setup is that way (ideally the female ends should hot, not the male ends; but I started the first few that way so kept going....). On this one, I pulled off the original power connection box. On my second one I left it on and used the strain relief in there. Anyway, hope this is helpful. Let me know if there are any questions or if you want more details. -Aaron
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