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Ron Boyd

Beta Tester
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Everything posted by Ron Boyd

  1. Sorry, but I have to disagree with this statement. The OP said 30' to the first tree and then evenly spaced 8' after that. If the controller will send the signal 30', without a null pixel, why would it not send it 8'? The signal is re-generated at each pixel in the string. The first pixel strips off it's 3 channels worth of data and sends the rest to the next one in line. The signal is re-generated 16 times at the first tree, so the data should be fresh, 8' later. Now, if the problem is, that the signal is weak at the first tree, maybe, but the null pixel needs to go somewhere in the first 30'. That said, In my setup last year I had about 20-25 feet from controller to the first pixel in a 136 pixel strip with 17 pixels, 2' of wire, 17 pixels, 2 feet of wire, etc. In the picture below, it's the 2 bursts up high against the house. The controller was at the foot of the center burst. I added V+, Data and ground from controller to a null pixel at about 12', carried the data and ground only to the first pixel in line, and power injected at the first pixel. It worked like a charm. What gauge of wire are you using and is it stranded? If it's stranded, is it a lot of fine wires or a few thicker wires. A couple of years ago at our mini, we tested and discovered the power and data traveled further on fine, multi strand wire as opposed to a thicker, fewer strands.
  2. My first thought is power, but you said you are using power injection. Double check the channel config, network config. Going by your stated 16 pixels times 8 trees, there are 128 pixels or 384 channels. (I have the exact setup but in a circle form instead of mini trees). That's less than one universe so that should not be the problem. Your channel config must have all 384 channels and the network config should match Universe # in the channel config. One other thing to try, as stated above, you might need to add a null pixel in line about half way there. I don't really think that's the culprit, since the first few are working properly. It's something you can try though. Just be sure your pixel controller reflects that there is a null there. Otherwise, it will think the null pixel is your first pixel. To recap, Check channel config check network config check that controller matches up with the first two, and lastly, try a null pixel at about 15 feetOh, it's preferable, in my experience to have the power as close to the element as possible. At 30', you may have power loss, whether it's 12v pixels or 5v pixels. The 5v pixels will have drop-off more so than the 12v, but if you're not using a heavy enough gauge wire, you could have some power degradation. Stranded wire is better than solid wire, in my opinion.
  3. My first year was 2011. When I lit everything up for the first time, I watched the first sequence and said, "WOW! That is cool. Fast forward 2 years. After getting my feet wet with a bit of RGB in 2012, I decided to go mostly pixel and basic RGB. when I lit up the display in 2013, I had a Joygasm. Welcome to the addict........... I mean, hobby. Good luck on your first start up.
  4. Just a little tidbit of info. If you use a cloud based storage and back-up, such as DropBox or OneDrive or Google Drive, you can create a folder for sharing, COPY the sequences there and link to that folder. This way, you don't have to answer 100+ emails and send out the sequences. This also keeps your sequences safe since the share folder is a copy of the sequence instead of the original.
  5. Low Voltage DC. I use them where I need Power injection. All of the main connections are made ahead of time in the basement, solder, shrink wrap, water proofing, etc. Once set-up starts, where I need PI, I just snip the line, add these and then I zip tie the wires together to give a bit more strength so they won't pull out. Worked like a dream last year. Didn't have to solder anything outside during set-up.
  6. I have had a couple of inquiries on how I did my pixel circles. It's a pretty simple project. once you have the materials, should take a couple of hours to complete. I used Coloplast for the actual circle. The circle is about 16 inches in diameter and the pixels are about 1.5 to 2" spacing. Even though there are only 32 pixels in 2 of them, I had to power inject after 2 circles. the pixels I used are WS2811, starting at the bottom and working clockwise. here are a few pics to show the front, back and the rigid circle I used to mount them. The rigid circle is just a small cut out from a piece of Plastic pipe scrap that a friend had. If memory serves, it's 10" in diameter. iI just mounted the gray piece to a section of 1/2" EMT. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pbwrhiwzjjh7mz4/AACl-kSet3P2c1vEVeCYY_9_a?dl=0
  7. https://www.dropbox.com/s/vw47njelmgg2mjv/CoroCane.lpf?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/c1p5fmirvphctzf/CoroCanes.lee?dl=0 See if these are the ones. I moved a bunch of stuff around in my Dropbox and these are the only ones I can find in there.
  8. I had zero problems out of 50 or 60 of these and I only use stranded wire. I plan on using them again this year.
  9. http://www.ebay.com/itm/330984195726?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-x-3M-UY2-Scotchlok-Butt-Type-2-Wire-Twin-Blade-Gel-Filled-Crimp-Connector-/131551741815?hash=item1ea1184777:g:LasAAOSwd4tT3v~8 I use these. No heat shrink, easy to apply, and gel filled. Another alternative.
  10. I agree with all statements. If memory serves, all pixels are 5v. On the 12v ones, a drop down voltage converter is added to bring the 12v down to 5v. That converter was the problem with the Technicolor pixels a few years ago. Most of mine are 5v but it's rare that I have more than 50 pixels per run, so power injection is not an issue. I believe Jim has the answer, inject between each cane. If using the 12v, you might get away with 2 canes before injection. An easy test is to hook them up, turn them on at 100% intensity, White, and where they start to dim, that's where you need power. An excellent write up on power injection: http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Power_Injection And David's very informative video on power loss: http://blog.holidaycoro.com/2013/05/a-demonstration-of-effects-of-power.html
  11. Yep, I watched again. I can see it here to.
  12. Shawn, a lot of folks are buying the 12 CCR sequences these days. With Brian's amazing work, and Holiday Sequences ability to rip them out in a couple of days, kneel999 sequences on Valley Center Holiday Lights, along with a few others on ebay, like you said, it's not right to share them. That's why I only gave you 1 or 2. the rest of mine were bought from these 3 places. This is a good concept though. It would be nice not to spend a couple hundred $$$ on sequences. Oh and thanks for the kudos. I trust that you got everything figured out and away you go. Good job Bro. Ron
  13. http://www.diyledexpress.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=42_44&products_id=179 Wait on presale after the first of the year. they will be in the $12-$13 range. Most pixel strings are usually 20 gauge wire, these have 18 gauge. During the presale, you can choose the color of the wire also.
  14. 16 Pixel Strings ~$220 (Nodes, not Strips, Pre-Sale price) Pixcon 16, E682, P12S or Falcon 16 v2 ~ $200 300w power supply ~$35 Enclosure ~$15 Material to build a pole structure ~ $150 That's just a bit over $600 2 LOR 8 pk of Dumb strips and controller, to make 16 ~$940 2 Power Supplies ~$70 That's just a bit over $1000 just for the lights. You can control Pixels as a dumb string on most if not all of the controllers mentioned above. If you decide to do the tree as Pixels, then everything is already in place. Sounds like a no-brainer to me.
  15. I have 2 props that have 250 pixels run from a DIY LED Express Bridge and Pixel Extender. I have to pack those 2 elements. Since I was planning on running E682s this year, my sequencing started with packing the elements. If the Falcon boards work out this year, I wont need to pack them next year. It may be stupid to some people, but because of the limitations of the boards when I started my pixel changeover, I had to pack. Not everybody has the same situation.
  16. So I've sort of kept up with this thread. I will be erecting my 12 x 50, flat tree this weekend. I'm not going anywhere near as elaborate as the aluminum stuff. I am using nodes as opposed to strips, so that was the major element in the way mine will be set up. My tree consists of: Brian's CCR Tree Star WS2811 Bullet Pixels Portable Hole II A length of Unistrut 1 1/4" center pole and Boscoyo Studios Pixel Strips I'll get some pics after set up to put a bit of a different spin on the aluminum frame style discussed here. I thought long and hard on the design you guys have done. It's solid and a fantastic design. I just couldn't justify the time and cost to build it. If I had have been using strips, then it's justified. Good job guys. Great reading.
  17. Very nice. Nice use of colors and sweeps. I like it a lot
  18. Screen shot in post 5 First 12 columns belong to the Ball on the hat. It's identical to my larger burst. The second set is a 21w x 8h horizontal matrix, starting on the bottom left (Pixel # 1), going in a snake pattern from L-->R, R-->L, L-->R, etc., moving from bottom to top. The import is showing pixel #1 on column #21 Row #1 and going Top-->Bottom, Bottom to top. The horizontal matrix is rotated 90° to the right and swapped left to right. Green sequencing grid, is supposed to look like the following: if that helps.
  19. I'd like the green sequencing blocks to match the visualization. Since it's a horizontal matrix. I can live with it the way it is, as long as it's not a bug.
  20. Sorry this happened last year, BUT, your "Newbie Fail", is a good lesson for Newbies and veterans alike. I also like your comment "I'm not going up on a ladder in the snow." That is a very good decision you made. I don't even like using a ladder if it's sunny. Too many things can go awry. I do it, but I don't like it. Just last year (4th year doing a show), I soldered the wrong wire on some pixels. Thankfully, the cris-crossed wires were data and ground, as opposed to one of them being the hot wire. So, the lesson, Check, re-check, and then, check again.
  21. Here's a screen cap of how it imports in. As far as the direction, I forgot to change the row viz to start at bottom left. However, after I changed it to the same as the real, It still does it. The attached photo is after the correction.
  22. Brian, we'll need to do that later this afternoon. The pc is not on the work network. After I get home, we can do it if you're available then.
  23. Got another dilemma, Brian. I sent an email that includes both the row and actual visualizer files. There are four props and using the "Force SuperStar Row/Column" dialogue, the matrix prop will only import into SS as vertical. This happens whether I import in using Vertical or Horizontal. Being a matrix, I needs it to be horizontal for this prop. Would you mind taking a peek at it and see if I'm missing something simple. I'm sure that's the case, but just need a fresh set of eyes. Thanks, Ron
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