Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums

Ron Boyd

Beta Tester
  • Content Count

    2,324
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    38

Everything posted by Ron Boyd

  1. Yep. There's always somebody wanting to buy or sell.
  2. This video is about 2 years old and there's no audio, but I believe it will get you what you want to accomplish.
  3. Tennessee Fall Mini All are invited, not just the folks from TN. We’ve had folks from GA, NC, SC, FL, AL and even once, someone from New Zealand. WHEN: Saturday, September 17, 2016 WHERE: Cleveland, TN (Just north of Chattanooga off of I-75) 3787 Blue Springs Road in Cleveland, TN TIME: TBD (usually 9 am – 4 pm) We’ll take up $$ for lunch, usually pizza. Most of us are nearing the finished product for the season, so really, any topic is up. The Fall Mini is usually, not as structured as the Spring Mini, but we still learn a lot. Topics will/can range from: Lights to use: Incandescent, LED’s, RGB dumb and smart strings. Most of us here use some form of RGB but the Incans and LED are also a part of some displays. Hardware: basic controllers, E1.31, Falcon, Sandevices, J1SYS, LOR, etc. Software: xlights/Nutcracker, LOR S4, Pixel Editor, Superstar, Vixen, Hls. Most everybody is using xLights, but some of are still diehard LOR fans. Power Injection: This is something that all can learn when using the low voltage, DC items such as pixels and basic RGB. If the interest is there, several of us can demonstrate good and most likely, different techniques for soldering, ie. connecting pixel strips or strings, adding pigtails, waterproofing, soldering controller boards together and such. Been there, done that. We can have one on one instruction if the need arises. Lots of us have been doing this for several years and have the "Been there, done that and I got the t-shirt" mentality. We're all willing to share our experiences, good and bad. Construction of elements: Need ideas how to construct leaping arches, mega trees, spiral trees, a Matrix, Marty fan, etc. Bring your new, cool element, to show off. It gives others ideas for creating new exciting elements for their display as well as how to build them. Anything else? If there's anything else you'd like to talk about, post about it here and we'll see if we can get it in. Mark your calendar for the September 17th.
  4. The best way to figure out where to inject power is this: String up however many pixels you have on the element, turn them on 100% intensity, white, where they start to dim or get a reddish or muddy yellow, (kind of like warm white) that's the point where you inject. Don't worry about how many, just where the hue changes. You can back inject also. This is how people are getting 100 or so pixels per run. I "t" the power in just like the ground. This way, all pixels get the power they need. Edit: To give a good visual reference, watch this: http://blog.holidaycoro.com/2013/05/a-demonstration-of-effects-of-power.html and read this: http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/wiki/index.php?title=Power_Injection Two excellent articles on power injection. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
  5. Isn't it illegal to do something like this. I mean, in essence, they're charging for their show, and isn't that a no-no. I've always been of the mindset, if you can't afford a hobby, don't start it. I do agree though, it needs to be on a go-fund-me instead.
  6. Well said Mike. Even though we've had our differences in the past, it's that, the past. So, all that being said, Do we have something new on the horizon? Sorry, I couldn't resist.
  7. Same thing, use the desktop and install Team viewer on your machine and phone or tablet. Basically all you are doing is bringing your desktop screen out to your phone. It's a bit behind, but during testing, that should not be a problem.
  8. Why don't you just use Team Viewer. You can access a desktop or laptop from your phone or tablet. I found it to be very useful last year, and it's free.
  9. Jerry, I've been wondering the same thing. The original post also had the PE incorporated into the sequence editor, instead of a separate program. Something like, when in the SE, click on the PE icon and it opens up. make the effect, and it goes straight into the SE. Didn't happen like that. Also, to use the PE, at least the last time I messed around with it, it would only output as an intensity file. This is the one of the reasons I don't use it, even though I have the Pro software. The reason being, sometimes I need to make changes in certain elements, specifically, text on the 2nd pixel tree. Since my second one is a mirror image, when I put a sequence on it, the text is backwards. I use the SE to copy and paste that section in reverse order to make the text readable. I can't do that with the PE. So, the PE, if it was on a CD or DVD, would be a cup holder now. I have no use for it. Not to mention the fact that it's just as cumbersome to use as the Nutcracker 3 program was or, at least it was last year. I haven't even opened it up this year.
  10. Just install over the existing software. No need to un-install the previous version.
  11. I believe you are. To create an arch of say 24 pixels, (what I use) you would do 1 segment with 24 pixels or 2 segments with 12 pixels. I use 1 and 24. Unless I'm misunderstanding what your asking.
  12. For those of you wondering why Brian has not answered this post, He emailed me with the answer to my query. Ron, First of all, sorry I haven't answered your question on the forums about moving the position of an image, I can't get the forums to come up on my computer. Do they work for you? To answer the question, there is not a direct way to move an image in the grid, but there is an indirect way. 1) Add an image to the image list 2) Make the image a part of an Image Action 3) Select "Apply x,y in preview (for animations)" 4) Set some values in the star x,y fields 5) click on the "Modify" button for the Image Action 6) the location of the image in the grid will change 7) Click on the Image "Add" button and the image will get added with the current position on the grid -Brian Bruderer I was hoping for a different answer, but, alas, I'll keep doing it the way I have been. Thanks Brian
  13. Yeah Doug, I do that all the time. I would like to be able to move the Image on the Grid, not just the element or prop. If you use scenes or morphs or even smooth effects, you can select Group Modify-->Move Pixels-->add a value in each box (Such as (-5) for up 5 rows, (5) for down 5 rows. Same way with left and right, minus = left and positive = right. Doing this actually moves the colored boxes on the grid as well as the tree, matrix, etc. Using the x ,y just moves where the image shows on the actual tree or matrix. For example, in the following drawings, the top one is the pixels on my garage. Top 10 are pixels in PEX, Bottom 10 are Pixel icicles in Pixel strips. The bottom picture is a new matrix that I'm doing this year. Same amount of pixels, but, there is not a gap between top and bottom. In most of my sequences for 2016, I will be using the Garage pixel effects from last year and adding them to the new matrix. However, if I have 2 images, (top picture), and want to put them on the bottom matrix, I have to redraw the bottom to make it work. I can use the x,y coordinates easily, but I have to do it for every effect that needs changing. Once I get it all done, then I can just copy effects to a clipboard and paste it onto one or the other. I want to select the entire image on the top picture, bottom 10 rows and move the entire image up one row. this way, it will match the bottom picture and I can copy and paste to either from the other. Otherwise, I have to re-draw the entire bottom image.
  14. I don't think Group Modify will work with Images Doug. It will with scenes, morphs and Smooth effects, but not images. This is what works, but it just moves the image to where you want it to show. I'm wanting to be able to move an image without re-drawing it. Not even sure if it can be done, since images are so different.
  15. Brian, Would it be possible to add a way to move an image up or down or left and right? An example would be to move a group of pixels up or down 1 row. If it's already there, Could you give a bit of instruction as to how to do it? Thanks, Ron
  16. Not because of losing an important structure in the yard, but I re-do my display every year and have to tweak or re-sequence all of mine.
  17. Files sent. As with all new software, it happens. Thanks for the quick reply. Looking forward to this new feature.
  18. Ran into the first problem. I have 2 fully packed props in an imported visualization. Each have in the comments section, "superstar matrixLength=25". Prior to adding this release, all was working well. After installing this release, one of the bursts is fine but the other reverted back to what it was prior to adding the comment "superstar matrixLength=25". It was, 10 columns of 25 pixels. It is now, 6 Columns of 25 pixels, one column of 20 pixels 1 column of 5 pixels and 3 columns of 25 again. It's set up identical to the other as a mirror. Burst # 1 has the first string on the left, Burst # 2 on the right. If you would like to see the viz, I can send it to you or take a screen shot. Any ideas?
  19. If you come to the TN mini in September, remind me and I'll bring it and show it off.
  20. Well first, it wasn't my idea. The whole premise behind this is to keep the Supplies cool and still be waterproof. Yes, two 300w, 60 amp PSs in the main compartment and the fan in the door. I use it for my power injection. It's not really a hard build, just take your time. Anybody with a bit of general skills should be able to build this. The only tools used were a jig saw, battery powered drill and a utility knife. This passed year, I used Din rails and blocks. This coming year, I will be using those as well as Andy Harrison's Power Distro Boards: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhbWKcxFneo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjWLv8GYzxQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbsH_Z7xbzU
  21. This is what I've found to be the best solution. I have a single power supply in a CG-1500 and pixel controller in a CG-1000. The problem I had with PS and controller in the same enclosure is, the Pixcon16, is a bit bigger than, say an E682. It's a tight fit and will work, but then you have to worry about heat, as mentioned above. I also tried to mount the controller in the box with the PS in the door. It wouldn't close once all of the connections were made. I built this for 2 Power supplies in one CG-1500. I will be building another this year and using them. The Fan is a "Fox-2 Guided Missle" http://www.ebay.com/itm/EverCool-SB-F2-Fox-2-Guided-Missile-System-Blower-PCI-Slot-Case-Exhaust-Fan-/401058992301 The other stuff is from Lowes. Dec-o-Drain, caulk, screws, hot glue and cheap fiberglass screen. Here's the post for it: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208139887723742&set=pcb.935098403229790&type=3&theater
×
×
  • Create New...