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Everything posted by fordsbyjay

  1. I updgraded from xp to win7 this year so I had to re-install the lastest version of software I have a license for (3.8.2). I copied over all my old files and corrected the links for audio, channel config. etc. But, when I save some files from the sequence editor to my new folder not all files are visible unless I click the "compatibility files" button. Why do only some of my files get saved this way and how can I stop it? So far it seems to be the lss files, lcc, and some lms files. The files are in appdate, local, virtualstore, progrma files(x86), light-o-rama, sequences folder instead of the computer, local disc, program fiels(x86), light-o-rama, sequences folder. If I move my folders to mydocuments will the issue go away?
  2. What is the purpose of multiple tracks? I did a search, watched a couple videos but I don't understand where this would apply. Thanks in advance.
  3. Ok I got it. Man getting old sucks. I had the wrong network cable plugged in. The one I use is dark blue and there is a dark green one that I grabbed from under the desk.
  4. I forgot to mention I have 4-CTB-16D boards and the USB-RS485 adapter.
  5. This summer I had a hard drive failure so I have reloaded the latest version of LOR. When I tried to install the driver for my USB adapter I can't seem to get communication with my LOR boards. The previous driver I had was CDM_2.02.04. I installed this driver and it said it installed and was ready to use. After a reboot I can not see any controllers so I upgraded to the latest version (2.08). Once again in my device manager it says it is working properly but I have no communication with my boards. One thing I noticed different from the instructions is in the device manager it doesn't show anything about a com port. Can anyone see what I am doing wrong? Wrong driver?
  6. LOR has great service and will fix the problem. I imagine they are bowed up right now and hopefully they will get back to you soon.
  7. Well....... while I was waiting for a reply I went ahead and purchased the regular upgrade with your link above Don. Doh! I was looking at the CCR primarily for the Auto Sequence editor as I had a hard drive failure last month and lost some of my data. Any suggestions on where to go from here?
  8. Thanks Don. Is the superstar editor and the superstar editor and the superstar sequencer the same thing just two different terms?
  9. I have the Advanced version of the S2 software and want to update to the new S3 version. I checked my licence and it say max 2.9. Can I just upgrade to the S3 or do I have to buy a new version? I thought I read a post the other day about upgrading but I can't seem to find it now. Thanks, Jason
  10. I used the Harbor freight ones and have had good luck. Every now and then they go on sale for cheap.
  11. Is there a relay in there that protects people from blowing stuff up? The reason I ask is because it the channels are working again.
  12. I have 4 CTB16D's in a custom cabinet I built a few years ago as well as a LOR 1602W unit I added last year to run my mega tree. I was troubleshooting a faulty power cord on one of the CTB16 controllers when I realized one of my 110v source plugs was wired backwards (I was using a polarity tester). So then I started checking all my cords feeding all my controllers and when I did the 1602 controller at the mega tree it was wired correctly but when I plugged the cord back into the controller the whole board went dead (both sides)and the lights went out. Last night the 1602 would not show up in the hardware program so I left it for the night. Today I went out and checked my cables, the red LED is on in the 1602 controller so I fired up the computer. That controller is viewable in the hardware program again but when I turn all the channels on I have no output at all. I checked the fuses last night and they were ok. I don't see anything that is blown up. Is there anyway of troubleshooting this at home? I have a multimeter as well as a couple years of electronic schooling but that was a long time ago. All the controllers were used last year with the same cords and lights as well. This particular controller is plugged into an outside plug that I have a fridge and freezer plugged into with no problems. thanks for looking. Jason
  13. Don't they all come from China? Do you have a link where you can by them direct? My biggest concern would be the quality.
  14. I finally got my panel done and have a few lights up. I just wanted to say that Light-O-Rama rocks. I have never used their software up until last week and it seems very user friendly and a lot of common sense if you are familiar with software and editing. Usually my biggest fear with buying anything software related is the time and effort needed to learn a new system. I have spent a few hours hacking away at it and pretty much figured out most of it. I built a couple short shows experimenting / learning so other than the time needed to build a complete show (which I expected to be long) everything looks good. I posted some pics of my panel in the toot your horn section in case anyone is interested. Jason
  15. Here is what I have done so far. I wanted to make a panel that I could move out to the side of the house then put away in the off season. I still have to make a top and then I will make a door to cover the front and run the cords underneath it. We get a lot of rain in the winter so I need to get it up off of the ground but my wheel cart is too unstable right now. The wheels need to be moved out some more. The main power will come in the rear and it feeds through inside the box.
  16. Thanks Jeff for clarifying. I thought that is what you meant but just wanted to make sure.
  17. Jeff Millard wrote: What do you mean by connectors Jeff? Yes you need to have #12 wire from the breaker to the board to handle the 20 amp current but, each channel on the board can only handle a max of 8 amps therefore the standard 14 guage wire from the board to the receptacle (plug in) is ok. Please correct me if I am wrong because that is how I have mine wired. I bought everything at the board level so maybe I am missing something here with the 'showtime package'. Thanks, J
  18. I am just about done so hopefully tomorrow I can post a picture of my panel. I am more worried about the programming than anything because I know it is the hardest. I look at these videos on youtube and I shudder at the amount of time and effort put forward to make that all happen at a certain pace. I did some programming in college and know how much work it is trouble shooting software etc.
  19. I am just going to wire it like normal to prevent any problems that may arise. That is an interesting point about the increased size of the neutral wire. When I built my garage I used a common neutral with two different hots so that each side of the 4 gang outlet would be on separate breakers and no one mentioned the need for a larger neutral wire including the inspector. He performed a rather in depth inspection due to the fact it was on a home owners permit and asked a lot of questions to see if I knew what I was doing. I tend to overwire things compared to what electricians think is necessary but having always owned older homes I look at it from a service standpoint. Electricians built it then haul ass leaving you to hire another electrician later on or fix it yourself. A perfect example would be putting every outlet in your kitchen on one breaker (usually tied in with half the living room). Then you have all these stupid requirements like you can't use the microwave while using the electric grill. My other pet peeve is how they wire all the bedrooms to one circuit then when you need to change/service something you have to turn off power to half the house leaving you working in the dark. I always wire my receptacles on a separate circuit from the lights for this exact reason. I also noticed down south they use a lot of plastic boxes instead of metal. I have had to fix a bunch of those too since I moved here. They don't like heavy loads like fans and big lights. Anyways Tom, thanks for the info and sorry for rambling on. Jason
  20. I understand that I need 12 guage wire for the 20A service to controller board My question is pertaining to the outlets wired to each individual channel. If each channel can only handle 8 amps / channel then the standard 15 amp outlet should be sufficient.
  21. I was building my controller panel tonight and my initial thought was that seems how the CTB16DWHS boards are 20 amps I would need to run 12 guage wire and 20A receptacles when it donned on me that I should be able to use the standard 15A receptacle with 14 guage wire to each plug and use 12 guage only for the power source from the breakers. The user guide says that each channel can only handle 8 amps so my thinking should be correct. I just wanted to verify this due to the time and cost involved if I am wrong. Also, can you run a common neutral to two different channels? I was planning on running a regular receptacle and removing the tab in the middle on the hot side to make it two seperate channels but can I leave the neutral side tab in and run only one neutral or are the neutral lines related to each individual channel? Super thanks, Jason
  22. Thanks, the reason I ask is I was going to pick up some LED lights to make a xmas tree and didn't want to get stuck with a bunch of lights I can't use.
  23. I bought 4 CTB16DWHS boards this summer. I was just reading the user guide I downloaded and it say "FOR USE WITH INCANDESCENT LIGHT ONLY". Is there a reason they will not control LED lights? I did a search and there is other posts about using LED lights so is this the only board that is not LED compatible? Thank you, Jason
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