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About rcoaster

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    1 of the top 10 snowiest cities in the US.
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    Roller Coasters, Amusement Industry, Subaru's, DJ Lighting
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
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LOR Software

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  1. Pixie 1?

    I checked it out, and I don't see any standalone capabilities.
  2. There are Cat6 flat cables available. They of course, are booted, but are more flexible than the standard cabling.
  3. Pixie 1?

    I wonder if the folks at LIght-O-Rama have considered developing a "Pixie 1"? A single port pixel controller, with stand-alone capabilities.
  4. You can only specify 1 color order for all 4 ports on the Pixie 4. If you have RGB bulbs and RGB strips that have different color orders, you can use S5 and specify the color order for each port when you create the "props" for each unit ID. In S4, it's tricky and labor intensive to reorder the channel numbers for each pixel to match the color order.
  5. Yes- I've tried 3 different SD cards, all with the same results. I was using the laptop's own built-in SD card reader.
  6. Anyone having any problems creating a show onto the SD card via Hardware Utility from a playback file in S5? I was using version 5.0.16. Every time I write a show to the card, an error comes up and Windows reports that there's a problem with the card. I go ahead and scan and fix, and then Windows reports that there are no errors. I also then can no longer copy files to the SD card. Rebooting the computer helps solve the problem and I can write to the card again with no problems until I use the Hardware Utility to create a show. I uninstalled S5 and went back to S4, and was able to write a show to the SD card with no problems at all. I'm running Windows 10 Home (64 bit) with all the updates as of yesterday.
  7. Thanks for the feedback- I already have the 3 pin connectors from Holiday Coro, including extensions. I was wondering if the CCB-II strings from Lightorama would fit those connectors.
  8. Was wondering if the CC Bulb/Pixels/Ribbon with a waterproof connector would fit the connectors from Holiday Coro? (Yes, I know that you offer a dangle with your bulbs. It's a flat cable, which doesn't work with standard cable glands. The ones from Holiday Coro are round cables, which work well. Maybe this is something you should consider for future product offerings.)
  9. Timing Grid limitations?

    Thanks for looking into it. I get all OCD when creating my animation sequences and the fixed timing grids help me get the effects the way I want it.
  10. Why am I limited to a minimum of 1/20th (.05) second when creating new timing grids in S5? In S4, I could create timing grids as small as .01 (1/100th) of a second. I have some RGB sequences where I have bulbs blink white for 1/50th of a second to create a sparkling effect.
  11. Thanks everyone for their suggestions- the temps dropped to 16F and all the lights went out. I recently tested it, and found the voltage at 2.7. So, it's the power supply. Ordered a Mean Well 12V power supply this time, and will follow up once I get it from Amazon and install it. Pearlight Technology? Forget it- cheap chinese crap.
  12. Thanks for the suggestion about the voltage- I'll check the voltage levels. The LED driver (Pearlight) is rated for operating temps between -22 thru140F, and I couldn't find it's load derating curve, but based on other led drivers, the load would drop off at higher temps, not lower. So, at 27F, it should be at 100% voltage. I'll confirm tonight. It does say that there's a drift of ± .5 volts. The output is non-adjustable, and is fixed at 12V. As for the distance between the controller and the lights, the run down is this: Port 1: 100 pixels, 8" spacing between pixels, there is a 13' run between the controller and the first pixel. Port 2: 100 pixels, 8" spacing between first 50 pixels, 4" spacing between the 2nd 50; 10' run from the controller to the 1st pixel. Port 4: 50 pixels, 4" spacing between pixels, 11' run between the controller and the first pixel. By the way, I'm located in Rochester, NY and it was 27F last night, and no thanks, I like my cold air.
  13. I went from a CCB system last year with 100 pixels to a 250 pixel setup this year with a Pixie 4D. It's running a beta firmware that has a proper stand-alone functionality. The show runs off a G3 Mini-Director set at 500K. I switched to all new 12v C9 pixels from Holiday Coro (this was before LOR started offering their own 12v CCB strings). The power supply is a 200W 12v power supply, all the pixels total 120W, and I added 12 watts to power the mini-director. The director is powered by the Pixie 4D via a POE set-up. During the warmer days (above freezing) all the bulbs behave normally. When the temperature drops below freezing, on Port 1 (which has 100 pixels) only pixels 1-80 behave normally, 81-82 are static color and the rest are off. On Port 4 (which only has 50 pixels), Pixels 1-23 work normally, and the rest remain off. Port 2 has 100 pixels as well, and they all behave normally. Port 3 remains unused. Any suggestions what I should check? I tested everything inside my house, running the show for several hours without any issues before installing them outside.
  14. Thanks. After sleeping on it for a bit, I realized that I still had my old Mac Book Pro that I used to create the sequences. I took a look and found the files, since 2015. So, not all is lost, and I can use the old sequences as building blocks for next year. I now will save my files to OneDrive, as well as activated back-up to my personal cloud.
  15. After creating my sequence (LAS file), and creating a show for it (only 1 sequence) onto the SD card for my mini-director, my PC crashed with a boot error. I was forced to do a full restore from the original install, and lost my Light-O-Rama files. I thought I had back-up turned on, but alas I did not. (Don't worry- nothing important was saved on this PC. Only used for Light-O-Rama. My main computer's a Mac, and is always being backed up.) I was wondering if we can re-create a sequence file from the show file that's already on the SD card, or is it a one-way situation?