Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Orville last won the day on June 26

Orville had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

211 Excellent


About Orville

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Orlando, FL
  • Occupation

More About Me

  • Interests
    Photography, Garden Railroading, Gardening
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    2009 watching holiday displays with lights set to music.
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
  • License Level

Recent Profile Visitors

1,831 profile views
  1. Wonder if they got the issue resolved? No activity from original poster to know if they are still having issues or not with their Sequence Editor. I'd guess since they haven't been back to see if there have been any answers to try and help them, then, perhaps they got it resolved on their own. We can only speculate, but if it's not working would really believe they'd be back in here checking constantly to see if an answer could be found to resolve their problem{s}.
  2. As long as all the files get on the SD Card, and you're running the show when inserted or powered, the show should start as soon as everything is powered on. If an issue occurs, sometimes you may have to reset the controller, reseat{remove and reinsert} the SD Card, however this starts the show over from the very beginning, or you may need to reset the MP3 unit, again, which will start the show from the beginning again. Unfortunately no way I know to avoid that using an SD Card and MP3 Director to run a show without redoing the SD card with just the show files to complete the original show. So when using Directors, you're kind of stuck if something needs to be reset or card taken out and reinserted when something might go awry during the show. Hope this helps. Having run a show for almost 4 years from an DC-MP3 Director, got a lot of experience with show failures and having to do the above to get things going again, sometimes even down to rewriting the show on several SD Cards, so if one failed for some reason, I always have a backup to restart the show over. Good luck with the next campsite show.
  3. Orville

    Summer sale

    Strange, been getting the LOR Sales Messages since 2010 and I have all kinds of SPAM filters in place. The ONLY way I can think of is that maybe you accidentally clicked on "JunK" and put the LOR address in there. And if you have gone through and clicked messages in your "JUNK" folder, not realizing it was an LOR Sale E-Mail and clicked "BLOCK" you may have inadvertently blocked the sale e-mails. Go into your BLOCKED SENDERS list and look for anything with the name LOR in it, if it's in there, remove it and you should start getting the e-mails again. Other than that, did you change or did the company that offers your e-mail service change things, like the name of the e-mail account? I know one of my e-mail accounts got changed from @hotmail.com to @outlook.com, and that makes it an entirely new e-mail according to the e-mail servers that send your e-mail to you. One last suggestion would be to just go and re-sign up for the sales e-mails again, if I recall, LOR will send out an automated message that shows you have signed up for them. If you don't get it within a day, usually only a few minutes, check the previously mentioned things, otherwise you should be receiving them, if everything else all checks out.
  4. If you shoot me your e-mail in a PM, I can send you the .LMS files I have and maybe you can work them into a singing face. I have one section where I have my blowmolds in a track, the blowmold lamp is set to the words of the song, sometimes I'll do that with different blowmolds I have if there is more than one voice in a song. It's not perfect, but it looks good with a blowmold, thinking maybe it might actually be able to be a start toward a singing face, as that is why I did some of the songs in that manner. Again, PM me with your e-mail and I'll send my "Ding A Ling the Christmas Bell" and "Mamasita Donde Esta Santa Claus" sequences to you. Hopefully they'll be able to at least possibly give you a start.
  5. Don't have singing faces, but one song I did a few years back that is children related is "Ding A Ling the Christmas Bell" by Conway Twitty, another I did is a Spanish/English Song called: "Mamasita Donde Esta Santa Claus"{Mama Where is Santa Claus}, don't recall the Artist, but you can find it on YouTube. I never got this one started, but it's a cute song: "The Kitty Ate The Tinsel On The Christmas Tree", it's from the "How The Grinch Stole Christmas CD", I think Mannheim Steamroller might have done this one, but not certain. But these are a few, I worked on, the first 2 completed, but could still use some work to improve them, again, no singing faces, just standard flashy-blinky lights to the songs. But are good children friendly songs for Christmas.
  6. Orville

    How to create equalizer effect on RGB nodes

    Don't have dumb strips to try, really not interested in dumb ones. I only have smart ones, so I can't try it on a dumb set, and that's why my opinion is what it is from reading things about, and on dumb pixel nodes. And why I stated that is what I formulated my belief on, apparently it can be done, I really didn't think it would be possible. I stand corrected and learned something I didn't quite know for certain if this were even possible with dumb strips. But sometimes reading this info on dumb pixels just doesn't give an accurate depiction of what can, or can't, be done with something unless you have some to play around with. I just prefer smart pixels, I'll leave the dumb pixels to the DIY folks.
  7. Orville

    What is that symbol?

    To me it looks like you looking down at the top of a light bulb and the lines are how some draw it to show it's lit. But that's just my guess as to what it is there for, and what it actually is.
  8. Orville

    How to create equalizer effect on RGB nodes

    What you're describing to me couldn't be done with "dumb" pixels, you'd need smart pixels if I'm understanding you correctly, you want these dumb pixels to be green at the bottom beat, yellow for the middle/center beat and red for the top beat of the song. If you're wanting them to go from green only at the bottom, yellow only from the center, and then red for the top, you can't do it with dumb pixels as the entire strand is only three channels, 1 for red, 1 for green and 1 for blue to make up all the colors, but over the entire strand. As far as my understanding: smart pixels are 3 independent channels, 1 for red, 1 for green and 1 for blue to make all the colors, where each bulb is independent in a smart pixel strand, but dumb pixels all bulbs are the same color at the same time., they still have 3 channels {or is that 1 channel with 3 colors, Red, Green and Blue? This area always seems to confuse me a little bit.}, same as smart pixels, but each bulb can't be independently controlled, strand is all one color at the same time or none. So dumb pixels are only 3 channels{1 channel?}, where a strand of 50 smart pixels is 150 channels, 50 channels each of red, green and blue. I'm almost certain you can not have different colors on any part of a dumb pixel strand, just a single color for each strand of dumb pixels, so your trees would be all green on the first beat, all yellow on the center beat and all red on the top beat. If this is what you're going for, then yes, dumb pixels would work in that respect. But you couldn't do a moving multi-color spectrum bar in segments with dumb pixels, just don't think they're capable of that. Hope I'm explaining this properly to where it's understandable and hopefully correct. If not, maybe one of the folks with experience with dumb pixels can clarify this much better, but from everything I've read this is how dumb pixels work. This is why I am going with the LOR CCD devices and smart pixels, more control of colors along the strand, so I can make sections of the strand dark green, mint/light green, yellow and red, for example the first 5 pixels for dark green, then the next 15 pixels would be a mint/lighter green, then the next 15 pixels would be yellow, then the last 15 pixels would be red. And that would equal one strand of 50 smart pixels using the LOR CCB-100 controller and 2 strands of 50 smart pixels. I could do two bars with this system at 50 pixels per bar, having 3-4 colors from the bottom to the top of the spectrum top bar. I really don't think you can accomplish this with dumb pixels. If I'm in error, I'll stand corrected, but from my understanding of each type, this is what I believe to be how the dumb and smart pixels{have a little experience with smart pixels} work.
  9. Are you opening SE from the Desktop? or From the Windows Program List under the Light-O-Rama folder? From the Light-O-Rama light bulb in the task bar? or From the task bar where you sent it too? There are so many different scenarios that each one can have issues depending on various factors. So we definitely need to know more info about your system setup, operating system, etc. to be able to help you. Did you use the default Light-O-Rama install locations or customize it to your specifics? Did you rename any of the files when you made shortcuts and moved them to the desktop or taskbar area? What version and license level do you have?{This info can also be posted in your profile and show up under your name and location at the left of these messages, that would also help for you to fill in your profile with this info.} As you can see, so many varying factors, we need to know a lot more info before we can try and diagnose what your issue may be in opening the SE on your computer. As this could be something very simple or it could be something that requires a little more detail on how to instruct you to get it functional. .
  10. Already upgraded to PRO. Can't use the PE until I get a newer graphics card as the one in my system does not support the OpenGL 1.5 or higher needed to even use the PE software currently. Working out other things for the moment, but will get this sorted out and all working before it's needed. {I HOPE!}
  11. Thanks folks, kind of figured that may be a problem. Will see what I can come up with. I know I do have a few of those powered USB hubs around, but so many times I heard they weren't good enough if they didn't have their own power supply off a wall outlet via an adapter as opposed to being powered off the USB hub on the computer. I lost the adapters to the ones I have, but know that one was 9VDC and the others were 12VDC, just have to find an older adapter with the old stereo type plug over a USB plug to use them, as that's what they used to power them. Got plenty of old adapters of a wide assortment of voltages that some have barrel plugs and quite a lot that don't have ends on them any longer, mainly the wire going to the power connector at the end of the wire went bad, cut those off and tested, adapter good, but no plug. Maybe if I can open one of those old USB hubs I can maybe solder the adapter straight into the power port and get one of them to work. Ah, just what I needed, another project to locate and modify before Christmas to get my display functional. LOL Looked at the one you gave the link too, nice, but I think if I end up buying a new one, I think I'll go with this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LW1RGG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B072LW1RGG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=1713835751726239774&pf_rd_r=8E4MA6ZQ3RPZ49K2W8WY&pd_rd_wg=1Io2N&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=tPNOI&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=bb34ecc3-860b-11e8-9d63-255c035dbfa0 I like the facts I can actually turn off unused USB ports on it, and the fact it lights up to show the port actually has power going to it. Nice features on this one, and the price isn't too bad and with free shipping! This one should be fine too, right?
  12. Drat, leaves me out then. Don't think this computer can handle that, all USB ports are in use on it and that's with an ADD in USB 5 Port Card{this IS NOT a hub}, but a PCI 5 USB Port card I bought years ago to use the USB485B for my CTB16PC {older V2 Cards} Gen2{?} controllers. So I'm stuck with a single network. Hope it'll do for what I'm planning on this year, if not, I'll have to figure out how to do away with the older CTB16PC's and convert everything, like Blow Mold characters to LOR RGB smart CC Pixel or CC Bulbs and controllers, using what I'll have until I can find a way to get a newer computer to dedicate specifically for the new stuff, as older ones just don't seem to have the capability to handle a lot of the new stuff, like the Pixel Editor and other features in the ever upgrading LOR software suite. Thanks for the info. p.s. if everything wasn't USB protocol today, I'd still have quite a few ports left for another USB485, as it is, printers, mice, keyboards, speakers and many other devices used on computers all seem to be compliant to USB ports today. Sometimes I wish for the old parallel printer port and RS232 port to free up a couple of USB ports! But know that's not going to happen.
  13. Thanks Jim. No, my CTB's are V2 boards, Gen 2 maybe? But definitely not Gen3, so they don't or can't use the enhanced protocols. Now can I use one Cat5 cable port on the USB485B just for the CTB16PC's and the other Cat5 cable port on the USB485B specifically for the CCB-100 controllers? Would that be 2 networks? This multi network thing always seems to puzzle and confuse me as to how they are set up. The way I think it is and the way it really might be may be 2 different things. So I need some good clarification on them. Thanks!
  14. Okay, considering adding ELL's to my display due my plan on adding pixels this year to my display, and cutting down on how many CTB16PC controllers I'll be using from 4 to probably 2, maybe 3 of those at most. Using the LOR CCB100 controllers to control 5VDC LOR CC Pixel or CC Bulbs, the question is, how well does a display work using 2 ELL's, one inside the house and one outside the window for sight to sight communication to each ELL. The inside ELL connected to an USB485B adapter, the outside will be connected to hopefully if all goes as planned, 5 CCB100 controllers and up to 3 CTB16PC controllers. Questions are: Will there be any noticeable lag in the show using the ELL's, as in will any of the sequences be slowed down so slow that it's noticeable? If the ELL is the first item connected via the Cat5 to the first controller, which could be either the CCB100 or the CTB16PC, will it still receive power from the controller or will I need to add a power supply to the 1st outdoor ELL, if so, what's the input voltage and what adapter if that method is used, would I need amperage or milliamperage? I have an old LOR 12VDC 1 AMP adapter from when I used an older DC-MP3 Director, will this work for powering the ELL either outside or inside? If I have any others I can think of, I'll post them in this thread, or if you know of any additional info I might need on the ELL's, please feel free to add in suggestions or comments that may help me with whether or not I want to go this route, as one other option I've been considering is the DC-GEN3 MP3 Director w/real time clock so I can run my display temporarily without the use of a computer until I can get some electrical work done on my home to add what I need outside and to make a way to get cat5 from inside to outside without going through a window or door, which many times is impractical for me currently. Thanks to all that can help and answer these questions.
  15. Orville

    Adding pixel arches to existing LOR

    Thanks Jim. Will be looking forward to that. Will be great when I can finally use the PE program! Been wanting to play with that software since I upgraded to PRO.