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Orville last won the day on December 12

Orville had the most liked content!

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About Orville

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  • Birthday 11/18/1956

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    Orlando, FL
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  • Interests
    Photography, Garden Railroading, Gardening
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    2009 watching holiday displays with lights set to music.
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?

LOR Software

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  1. Question, when you made the tie down to the tree, did you add a drip loop to the cord? When I had a tree in my old home, I used to tie my cords to the limbs and trunk of the tree too, but at each connection site, I looped the cord and then the female end was placed a bit more sideways after the drip loop, but elevated slightly next to the loop usually about 1-2" down from the top of loop, this way water would go to the loop and drip off, even in a gully-washer, my connections never got water in them, if the cords would have just been straight down the tree, I can bet they'd have had similar issues as you've experienced. So if you aren't using drip loops, add them to your cord connections that run along areas that get a lot of water. I also use a zip tie to keep the loop secured and in place, or large plastic screw down C clamps that'll hold things in place. Even Duct or electrical tape is okay for holding a drip loop together, but I prefer the zip ties, just more secure {and no sticky mess as with tape!}. But however you do it, as long as the drip loop can serve it's purpose, you're good.
  2. re you certain you are using the same EXACT sequence in your show as you're playing in the SE? The only way I can see this happening is you are using 2 different sequences, may have the same name, and they are in 2 different locations. So one may no longer be joined to the media file used, and if that's the one that you selected for your show, then that is why the verifier is telling you there is no media file for that sequence. Find the sequence that doesn't have the media file, delete it, then copy your good sequence to that location, as long as the names are identical, re-run the verifier and that issue should disappear. To check for the media file in the sequence to see if it's still there, load the SE, load the sequence, if you get "media file not found" or something to that, click Edit, then Click Media File, the SE will open the folder where it expects to find the missing media file {the media name will be shown in the box of the media file that should be associated with the sequence.} See attached capture below. I know this because I save my show sequences to a different location, and keep copies for working on in a separate folder, and if I happen to change a media file in that sequence due to editing or for whatever reason, and the original one is still in the show directory and that media file has been changed to a different version that has been changed or edited, and usually given a new name, and the original medial file is renamed or changed, the original sequence will not find a media file associated with it. Or if you created an entirely new sequence with the same name, but different named media file this can also happen. Note the very top of the window, it shows you the entire path to where the sequence is expecting the media to be found. It also populates the File name box at the bottom of the window with the name of the media file the sequence is expecting. So I really think what has happened is you have 2 separate sequences stored on your computer in 2 different locations and the one selected for the show is not the same one that you think it is. Good Luck!
  3. You did keep at least a 6 inch gap between any electrical cords and the cat5 cables didn't you? If a cat5 cable crosses any electrical cords or is ran alongside them directly {bundled with them}, this can cause erratic things to happen when a sequence plays. Unless you cat5 is very heavily shielded from such things, most are not, and you say you made your own, so they probably aren't shielded. So this could cause erratic behavior as the RF {Radio Frequency} from electrical hum can interfere with poorly made or unshielded cat5 cable. And even if shielded, always best to try and keep a minimum of 6" from ANY electrical, light strands, anything electrically powered. I always try to keep my cat5 runs at a space of 2-4 feet away from any electrically powered objects. I have some that are just at, or slight over, the 6 inch mark because of how they had to be run. But they are NEVER allowed to sit on, cross over or run in a bundle with any power {electrical} cords. A lot of folks that get into this hobby make this mistake, and even on occasion one of us that's been doing it for a while still end up making this blunder, rare, but happens. LOL
  4. Orville


    If S5 has the LOR Show Editor and the LOR Schedule Editor, I'd recommend using those to create your shows. I tried using the Hub in my version {4.4.4} and I seemed to have similar issues. So I use the Show Editor to create my shows and the Schedule editor to schedule them. So far, everything running smooth as silk, and I have 27 songs currently {with more to add} in my Light Show, I have 203 sequences in my Off-Hours time to play Christmas music/songs randomly from 7:30am-5:20pm. So if the Hub isn't working for you, and these 2 programs are still in S5, I'd recommend using them. Unless you're using a Director then the Hub may be the only way to go. But if using a computer, the LOR Show Editor and Schedule Editor are the best way to go. {At least for me.}
  5. Orville

    What's Next!

    My bad, stated this was from trying to recall, thanks folks for clearing up the error. DATA should have been CLOCK. But for the life of me, the word DATA kept popping into my head. Guess I've been watching too many Star Trek TNG episodes with Lt. Commander Data in them. LOL
  6. If it's the loop back causing the blink, yes, extend the sequence, but also extend the loop so that it covers the extra empty off cells you'll need to add in to extend the off time by 2 to 5 seconds so the lights don't go off, then come back immediately. But even with an animation loop, the light shouldn't really have a "blink" to them, they'd turn off, then turn right back on and start the loop over. Only reasons I can fathom you'd have a "blink" is the lights go off at end of loop, then when they immediately come back on, you have a section at the beginning of the sequence with lights on for a very short duration, then off cells, then back on again. That would cause a blink, or like stated, having stray lighting commands at the end of the loop, at the end of the sequence could cause a "blink" to occur. This could also happen if both the start and end parts of the sequence has any stray lights on commands in the sequence. Believe me, those small intensity commands, such as with fades or intensity in a cell can be very difficult to find, spot and remove. I've had my share of these very issues, so I know from experience on stray on commands that can barely be visible to the you, but the sequence sees them and will turn on a light{s}.
  7. Orville

    What's Next!

    The main thing you need to know is what type they are, as in what IC Chip controls them and what their voltage rating is, 5V? 12V? And yes, you could use them, you just have to know what they are, also are they 3 wire or 4 wire? To my recollection 3 wire DOES NOT have a DATA signal line, but 4 wire do and would require a controller that also has 4 wire outputs of the proper voltage and/or a data line for the RGB lights you want to use. As for their length, they should be able to be cut down to the appropriate size to work with whichever controller you'd decide on to use with. But make sure the controller is one you can use with them.
  8. Bad idea, as others said, if moisture gets in there, it'll stay in there, even on the hottest day here in Florida, it won't dry out completely. Like others have suggested, but some cheap green ground Christmas light stakes and get the cord connections off the ground, try and use two or more stakes if needed. On my triple taps, I have one stake at the cord end and 1 on each cord coming into it, so 4 stakes in use. I also try and have all the female cord end pointing downward as well. Also on any open pass through, and end female plugs on light strands, I use those electric outlet plastic child proof caps on them, and even in any unused channel dangles from my controllers get capped off with them. Prevents dirt, mud and debris getting into the plug from rain or sprinkler splash. Been using this emthod for years now. My show will continue to run in conditions like yours, my first year I was having GFCI trips galore, brand new GFCI too, added the above to my cords and dangles, and I have yet to have my GFCI trip in any type of rainstorm to date. And where I live, when it rains, sometimes the yards will flood and retain water for long periods. I've had cords get submerged that had the child proof caps on them and my show still went on without a hitch.
  9. What you stated in the text I put in bold in your comment above is EXACTLY how it should work, except it won't start the program there when you close it, and then re-open it later, it will always default back to the very beginning of the song. You have to set the start and end times for the song in the Tapper Wizard every time you reopen any of the Wizards to use them. So, if you tell the tapper Wizard to start at the 28 second mark and go to the 1 minute mark, that should be where the song plays and then ends. So if using the Tapper Wizard, and you had set it up that way in the Tapper Wizard settings, it should have allowed you start the song right where you want to start at, then end at the end time you put in the start/end boxes. Then once you have the Taps set, click Apply and it should only add the taps from 00:28.00 to 01:00.00. But if you EXIT the wizard, it will default back to the beginning of the song, you have to SCROLL forward in the cells to find the Taps you just "tapped in", then when you start the Tapper Wizard again, if working on that same section, you'd have to enter the times all over again. None of the Wizards retain anything you have set once you Exit out of them. You should not have to shorten or edit the song to accomplish this in the SE, that's why there are two boxes to put the song start and end time do just put taps in a specific part of a song you may be working on. So if it was doing this, it was working as it should. If it's not, something either isn't set right in the Tapper Wizard for the start and end song time to use or the SE isn't working properly, I use this method all the time to do just short sections of a song I'm working on in the SE. Especially when I'm working on a song that over 1-2 minutes long.
  10. Orville

    What's Next!

    First off let's clear up CHANNELS when it comes to RGB lights, smart and dumb pixels are all 3 channels per node, so a 50 count strand of pixels = 150 channels {300 channels for 100 strand count of pixels}. Now, smart pixels each color is INDEPENDENTLY Controlled, that is each bulb can be a completely different color than another on the same strand. Dumb pixels the entire strand is still 3 channels per bulb, but the entire strand can only be a single color at any given time. Most pixel controllers, depending on voltage output to the strand will control either a total of 2 strands of 50 RGB nodes for 5VDC, 12VDC you can have 2 strands of 100 RGB Nodes or 4 strands {2 strands on each port of the controller} of 50 bulbs. Voltage of the nodes to the controller is important, as you can NOT mix 5V and 12V strands together, there are exceptions, but that is lot more complex using multi-voltage controllers like the Pixcon 16. And getting into pixels, with some controllers WILL REQUIRE a PRO License level to use them, a PRO license is ALWAYS recommended when getting into pixels because they are intensive, so a red high speed USB-RS485 adapter is required as most require 500K speed and an Enhanced Network. And DMX IS NOT required for all pixel controllers, some folks use that method, others just use the standard LOR protocol, that is up to you. If anything else needs to be added to this to help simplify it further, I'm sure someone else here will chime in with additional detail.
  11. Since that is what you've always used, have you tried closing down the software and restarting it. I've had some issue where I have had to close {and lose what I've done} and restart the software, then things worked again. That's the only 2 things I know that fixed some of the issues I've encountered from time to time. The one above this posting and this one, although option 3 might be to upgrade to the latest version of the LOR software you're using. Also don't know if you saw DevMike's post about the latest version of S5 {I don't use S5}, but the newest version is 5.3.12 and has fixed a lot of bugs and issues in previous versions of S5 from what I had read in his post. So you may want to go and download the newest version of S5. That can be downloaded here: ShowTime Sequencing Suite Download - Light-O-Rama Hope this might help.
  12. During checkout, you can state a change in shipping, on small items than can ship regular mail {USPS}, LOR will send it that way, but YOU MUST REQUEST IT. You do this in the comment section{box} where you can ask or tell them how you need it shipped, special instructions, etc. Believe me, it won't be anywhere near that default shipping charge. When I order small items I always request please ship USPS. And unless it's something that's really large, all small items I've ever ordered from LOR has always came in USPS, the regular shipping charge will show up on your invoice at first, but BEFORE LOR Ships it, that shipping fee will change and be much less than UPS or FedEx shipping. And it WILL be adjusted BEFORE they do the actual charge to your credit, debuit card or paypal account. Just some info to let you know there are other options, you just have to know how to ask for them.
  13. Do you always have an unnamed timing grid selected? When I forgot to set timings in my version of the sotware, the tapper wizard WOULD NOT apply the taps to an unnamed timing grid, once I changed to my default of .05 timing grid, it worked fine. Not sure if this could be the problem, but it's the first thing I noticed in your screen capture.
  14. You WILL definitely need to upgrade your license, Basic Plus only allows a maximum of 4 Controllers, and since you're at 64 channels, that's 4 CTB16PC style controllers or a mix and match of no more than 4 Controllers, and this, is again, your maximum limit with your current license. As others have stated, getting into Pixels, best to go with the PRO license, as some of the Pixel Controllers REQUIRE a PRO License, anything less and you'll be on here asking a million questions as to why Pixel Controllers aren't working or being found in the HU. I'm not sure if the License level affects the HU, since that is a backdoor to the Controllers for testing purposes only, just to make sure they can function, as it is. So the new controllers {pixel} may work in the HU, but when you start adding them and their high channel counts to the Sequencer, and you have a Basic License, only the first 4 Controllers will operate until you get a higher license level to handle those controllers. Again, Pixels are a bit more complex in their sequencing and some Pixel Controllers, again, WILL REQUIRE a PRO License to operate. So best to go ahead and UPGRADE your license to PRO, that is the least expensive way to do it. Use the Upgrade option and NOT the one that shows you're buying a new license, choose the wrong one, and you'll pay a higher price. So make sure you choose the UPGRADE LICENSE option when updating your license level.
  15. And if you do buy *used* equipment like LOR Controllers off E-Bay or other auction type sites, make sure they don't have a NO RETURNS ACCEPTED, too me, that'd be a red flag warning you may be buying a Controller that is already dead in its tracks. I NEVER buy from anyone or any company that has a NO RETURN POLICY, that's just asking to get burned when purchasing items from them. However, if the item is a clearance item that a reputable company has up for sale, usually due to being outdated and outmoded due to newer products that perform better, I will take a chance on those, because most clearance items I've purchased have worked fine, but they may have scratches or slight damage to something like a box may be broken and need replacing, but usually nothing that is a big deal. But again, make sure when you buy clearance items you're sure it's what you wan,t and be sure it's from a reputable company with excellent ratings, Like Light-O-Rama! Used equipment is not always a bad deal, just have to be careful of the sellers policy when doing so.
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