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Orville last won the day on July 29

Orville had the most liked content!

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About Orville

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  • Birthday 11/18/1956

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    Orlando, FL
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  1. Orville


    It's not so much the memory as it is the graphics processor. I was using an older computer, 2 GB ram, add in graphics card, and even with S4, I encountered times that took a long time before the sequence came back after making a large change to it, especially multiple channels at once, even if just copying and pasting. Just had to wait for the sequence to come back. Unfortunately Windows will sometimes send a response that the "Program is not responding", which is quite often false, give it about 3-5 minutes and most times it will disappear and all will be fine. But if you panic and try to close the program or start task manager and close the program thinking it's locked {learned this the hard way}, and you close the program, all that work you just did is lost and will have to be redone all over again. So now, I will give my old system time to see if the program comes back on its own, if it's taking too long, I walk away from the computer, go get a cup of coffee and go do something else for 5-10 minutes, then check on the computer, most often, the sequence has recovered and works fine. Very rarely has it not come back, I figure if it's not reset within 20 minutes, then I may have to start over again. But this is what I do when things appear to be "stuck" or "locked up", yes, it's frustrating, and yes, it takes longer to get the sequence, and I actually never ran into this issue until I got into Pixels and Pixel Controllers and all the channels they require.
  2. No, if you have one of the newer MP3 Directors {G3 or N4-G3 MP3} that has the ability to do multiple networks, you don't need the red adapter at all. You only need that if running the show from a computer. My red adapter died, but fortunately I'm now running my show from the new N4-G3 MP3 Director [G4]} and I use my older USB485B to test my shows from it, as it supplies the power needed to the MP3 Director for running tests inside before I move things outdoors for the actual display. Red Adapter is only good if using the computer for running a show or testing purposes indoors before moving the show onto an MP3 Director unit, newer if utilizing multiple networks and pixels. I have several channel config files for this purpose, 1 setup for testing without a red adapter, 1 setup for testing with both an older USB48bB black adapter{for older Gen 2/V2 CTB16PC controllers} and a Red HS adapter {Aux A} for Pixels, and finally a 3rd is set up for my G4 {N4-G3 Director} for all controllers I have, Regular, 115K for my Gen 2 CTB16PC Controllers, Aux A, 500K, Enhanced for my CCB100D 5V Pixel Controllers and Aux B, 1,000K, Enhanced for my 2 LOR Singing Trees {Pixie 2 Controllers}. This way when I have completed a sequence and need to change the settings for a section so that everything lines up for the G4 Director, I just load the channel config I created called 2020-G4~Director-Run~Shows.lcc, save the Director Sequence version to a new folder, then use those to install on my SD Card for the Director. Sure beats having to go in and modify each pixel area for the Director. And I use the Hub to set the network parameters, Network 1, Regular, 115k for my older CTB16PC controllers {G2/V2}, Network 2, Aux A, 500K, Enhanced for my CCB100D 5V older Pixel Controllers, and Network 3, Aux B, 1,000K, Enhanced for my Pixie 2 LOR Singing Tree Controllers. Probably more in-depth detail than you needed currently, but just saying how I set my Director unit up for my 2020 Christmas Show. You probably don't need 3 networks like I'm using {I could get away with only 2 if I had too}, but this way just makes it easier for me to track issues down if something goes amiss during a show.
  3. Glad you got her and the boy up and running Jim. I thought this was also one possibility of their issue, but not knowing S5 well enough yet, I wasn't sure how to change the channel ID buttons to the current controller. I've been playing with the PE in S4, and that's confusing enough to get working, once i figure out the PE in S4, then is the time I may upgrade and migrate into S5, but for this year I'm still sticking to S4.
  4. I do the same thing Phil, cut off the entire beginning, as well as the ending silent parts of a song. And I'm using a DINOSAUR of a a computer and I don't have any lag time either, lights go on instantly, same as yours as soon as the song starts and lighting commands start at ZERO time.
  5. Like someone stated, in S5 you have to create a preview and add props before a sequence will play or control lights. This is another reason I suggested S4, in S4, none of these steps are necessary in the sequencer, you just create a sequence and can play it, and it should work as long as everything is set up correctly within the SE itself It is so much easier to work with, and I think your autistic child will find it easier and less antagonizing/daunting/frustrating to get lights and things working in S4. S5 is just so complex that it even frustrates the pros on here at times. I'd definitely look into switching to S4 presently, I really believe it will save you and your child a lot of frustration in getting things working more quickly,
  6. Have you actually created a working sequence? That is one that is either just an animation with lighting commands on the channels you are trying to light or a musical sequence where the lights are sequenced to the song/music you're doing? If there is nothing in the sequence, it won't do anything at all. You have to actually create a working sequence by adding in lighting commands, on, off, shimmer, twinkle, fade up, fade down, or differing intensities along any specific channel before anything will happen. Also did you give your Controller an ID number using the HU{Hardware Utility}, if so, does the Unit Id{Controller #} match the ID/Unit number in the sequence? If not, say you have Controller ID # 01, but you sequence used Id/Unit # 03, then no lights would go on as the controller ID is not matched to the channels in the sequence. I'm not very familiar with S5, but I think you folks might find it easier to uninstall S5 and install the last version of the S4 software, which is Version 4.6, as that might be easier for you to work with as opposed to S5. S5 is quite a bit complex from any previous version of the software. Just thinking that the child being autistic, S4 might be a better version to start him out with. It's quite a bit easier to use than S5. Not saying S5 isn't good, just thinking that S4 might be easier for him to grasp and program than S5 is.
  7. In the sequencer, you need to locate the "Control Lights" and make sure it's clicked. If that isn't checked, the sequencer will not send the lighting commands to the controller, hence no lights. Also make sure you have the LOR CONTROL PANEL running, if you don't have the LOR Light Bulb icon showing on your taskbar, chances are you don't have the LOR Control Panel software running. Also make sure you have the FTDI files installed as well, LOR requires those for the USB adapters to be able to communicate with the controllers. The HU will work without it as it is just a tool to make sure that the computer can talk to the controller, basically a back door. If all of this has been done, not sure what the issue could be. As these are the most common items that cause the sequencer not to operate the lights connected to the controller. One other possibility is a bad cat5 cable from the USB Adapter to the Controller. But you say everything is connected and talking, so I really believe it's the "Control Lights" isn't checked in the sequencer. Once that's done, hopefully everything should all fall into place and the lights should come on. Good Luck!
  8. I'd say so using probably DMX, E1.31 protocols and some servo's and a LOR Servo-Dog. But would still cost a small fortune for the amount of fountain and spray types you'd need to accomplish it. Maybe a few water pumps, a few spotlights under them and some type of servo to control the water flow on each would be about the lest expensive way go. Not sure how it'd all interconnect, nor am I sure that there wouldn't be a lot more hardware or other componenets to accomplish this feat. Probably why no one has ever done it, least not in a hobby display like ours that I've ever seen.
  9. Glad you posted this, as I never knew there was an upgrade from S4 version 4.4 to 4.6! So just upgraded to 4.6. Not ready to get into S5 just yet.
  10. Orville

    heartbeat effect

    Video on YouTube: Stranger Things Theme Halloween Light Show 2019 Doesn't look like any fades to me at all. Looks to be some fast off/on to the beat. Just have to match the on/off ratio to the heartbeat effect to achieve it. It's quite simple actually. I used to do it with other songs/music when I did Halloween displays. Sometimes I did use fade up/down effects, all depending on how fast or slow the heartbeat effect in the song was.
  11. I use the green Christmas light stakes and drip loops as well. I also use those electrical outlet child proof covers at every single open pass through and end female connection on any strand that has them. I always point the female ends downward. When I used net-lights I used these same outlet cover protectors on those that were in trees or bushes. Never had an issue at all. Haven't for a very long time and I've been using these since mid 2010 when I started experimenting with them during some of our summer rain storms in Florida. I've even had a few of those connections end up under water because they fell off the stake {i now zip tie them as well} and into some standing water, but still no trip and the lights stayed on. Those gaskets do sound like a great idea for where two cords mate together, but I've never had any issues with the cord to cord {male to female} connections as long as they were tight and close together. But if the pass through {female end} and the female ends on strands were not closed off with the child protector caps, then they'd trip the GFCI every single time it rained, didn't matter how light or hard the rain was, no outlet cover over those areas and the show would be shut down as soon as just a bit of water trickled into one of them. I also painted all mine flat back on the back side, the prong side that goes into the female outlet was left unpainted. As these are usually a white plastic and will be very noticeable when light hits them. Just helps them to blend in better, especially after dark.
  12. I believe no matter what version of the software you use, the channel colors will be displayed when a sequence is loaded if they have been set to a specific color for each channel, then during a sequence playback, all channel colors go grey and only display their color if there are lighting commands in that channel as the sequence plays. Don't know if this works the same way in S5, but in the S4 Sequence Editor, you just click on the channel button, then select the color you want it to be in the color area of the pop up box, then select OK to set that channel to the color wanted. Tried loading a sequence into the Pixel Editor since that is the pre-cursor to S5, but none of the channel buttons even show up in the PE, which to me does not make any sense. So I couldn't test out the click on a channel button to see if the color could be set or not. Guess that's why I stay with S4.4.4 and the basic Sequence Editor, just a lot easier to use and manipulate in my opinion. The PE is just too complex, and I find S5 in that same "too complex" area, it needs to be simpler, like all the pre-versions of S5. But that's just my opinion that I think it doesn't need to be as complicated as it is.
  13. I need a complete tower case that is nothing but USB ports and can be connected via a USB cable link to my current tower system. Can't ever have enough. I'd like to have about, oh, let's say 5,000+ ports in a single tower case with a power supply to operate all of them via a USB link cable to my current system.🤣
  14. Are you trying to run RGB lights from an CTB16PC AC only Controller? You can't do it, and chances are you will eventually let out the magic smoke and destroy your RGB lights, as these are usually DC powered, NOT AC! You need a dedicated RGB Controller to control the colors for RGB lights, as these controllers will put out the correct DC power to light and control the lights.
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