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DevMike

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Everything posted by DevMike

  1. Sure. Go into the configuration of the Pixie in the Hardware Utility and flip one of the strings.
  2. Jesus saves. Buddha makes incremental backups
  3. We are currently experiencing some issues with our phone system. You may not get an answer, or your call could be dropped. We apologize for the issues. We are trying to work with our telecommunications provider to fix the issue as quickly as possible.
  4. It's a fine station, and I use mine a lot. I think you will really like it too. FYI: Don't just plug it in and turn it on. There are some setup steps you need to take including removing a shipping screw from the unit (at least mine required it). The secret to using the desoldering gun is the solder on the board. You should always use a little bit of flux before desoldering. Then if you still can't seem to get it all out of a hole, add more fresh solder - that will 'refresh' what is already on the board making it easier to melt and remove. Then try again. If you need new tips or other parts, SRA has been excellent for me. https://www.sra-solder.com/
  5. Many thanks to James B. for tracking this one down! Starting a few weeks ago, I had noticed some terrible slow downs while working with Hub (I'm adding some new features). Creating a test SD card which used to take seconds was now taking minutes for some reason. I had chalked it up to just weirdness on my machine and that perhaps it was time to give it a good shake, clean out the cobwebs, and re-install Windows - it's been nearly 3 years. A few days ago, a customer opened a help desk ticket about applying channel configs in S4 and the inordinate amount of time it was taking. This person's LCC was around 15mb, so I just chalked it up to it being too big for S4 and that he should move to S5. James just let us know that he's back to normal, and what fixed his issues was applying the latest Window's patches. I checked my machine and notice that it had installed these new fixes over the weekend. I'm back to 100% now too. James is absolutely correct in that there was something wrong with the previous Windows updates and the latest batch fix the issue. We recommend that everyone be on the latest Window's patches. Even if you did not/are not experience(ing) any slow downs, please get those updates installed.
  6. Truthfully, that's a new one on me - I don't ever remember a gator getting inside of a house. They will break through a screen Lanai to get to a pool, but have never heard of through a window. It is the height of gator mating season, so they do get a little more bold and territorial at this time of year (through the end of June). Maybe a reflection? All I know is that one has been turned into a couple of purses, a pair of boots and several pounds of gator nuggets
  7. Ok, so maybe move Gators up a notch... Clearwater Police Department (@myclearwaterPD) Tweeted: See you later, alligator 🐊 A scaly 11-foot-long gator broke into a Clearwater home overnight through some low windows in their kitchen. Clearwater Police officers and a trapper responded to the scene to capture and remove the gator. There were no injuries. https://t.co/jsOxRNfkEV https://twitter.com/myclearwaterPD/status/1134429910972346374?s=17
  8. Really depends on how serious you are going to get on soldering. If all you are going to do is put together 1 or 2 boards, a cheapo adjustable iron with a decent tip like the Weller is all you need.. On the other hand, if you are going to be doing heavy duty stuff, including removing bad parts (rework), you need to step up your game a little. I personally now use a Aoyue 2703 rework station. The iron heats fast and is rock solid. The fume extractor is excellent (boy I miss the smell of solder). The de-soldering gun is AWESOME. You will NEVER go back to wick or cheapo vacuum suckers again! My only 2 beefs are the tip cost and that it needs a switchable vacuum port. You have to disconnect the iron and then connect the de-soldering gun (or vice versa) by pulling off the tube. Tips are in the $14/ea range - which is good and bad. Its good because the tip contains the heater cartridge so when you replace the tip you basically get a new iron. But it's bad because you'll probably wear out the tip long before the heater itself goes bad. Yes, it hurt to write a $300 check for a soldering station. But if money is no object, Hakko is the way to go. If I remember, I'll bring my station with me to expo.
  9. FYI: As I said, Ginger and I will be at expo this year. If you want to look at my 3 while I am there, let me know. I'm happy to give you a tour. If you are looking for it in the parking lot, it will be at the VERY BACK away from everyone else. I like to try to keep her ding-free . Just be aware that 'Sentry Mode' will be active Brian will be driving his Model S over from Texas. While I can't speak for Brian, I'm sure you could probably talk him into seeing his Tesla as well.
  10. The link is in my post. The point is: Do not assume that just because something has been that way in the past that it is that way in the future. A rule of thumb is good for back of the envelope estimates BUT before you go plugging anything in, CHECK THE ACTUAL SPECS.
  11. As Phil says, we are usually not done judging all the entries until near the end of the year.
  12. No, sorry. That is an interesting idea however and I'll put it on the wish list.
  13. This troubleshooting guide, which comes complete with pictures and step-by-step instructions, will change the configuration of your computer and make things work. It is also a catch 22. You will be able to configure the PixCon16, HOWEVER the changes made will most likely NOT be compatible with your existing network. The computer will loose any other LAN connectivity (like to the internet). If you change the configuration back to how it was originally (the document tells you to record your settings before changing them), you will restore your regular network access but you will no longer be able to configure or control the PixCon16.Knowing how to integrate a PixCon16 into an existing network is difficult and is why we say: "The PixCon16 is a professional level board, and does require some in-depth knowledge about how E1.31 works, DMX and networking concepts." Everyone's network is different, and getting a PixCon to work within your existing network is beyond the scope of what we can help with.We recommend that you work through the PixCon16 19 step checklist several times if you are not familiar with TCP/IP. This checklist (along with the E1.31 and DMX for Pixel Control), will 100% of the time get a PixCon16 to work, if followed exactly on a standard Windows computer. Only after you have tried several times to use the checklist should you revert to using this Troubleshooting guide. If the troubleshooting guide works, then the issue is 100% configuration, and there is nothing wrong with your PixCon16.http://www1.lightorama.com/PDF/PixCon16Troubleshooting.pdf
  14. Bare Minimum PixCon16 Setup ChecklistBe sure to follow each of these steps IN ORDER. Do not proceed to the following step until you are sure the current step is complete. Please note that you may be further along in your testing than where this check lists starts. Please do not skip any of the previous steps even if you think you have performed them correctly already. Start at #1.If you have already tried to configure the board, you should first FACTORY RESET the PixCon16. Instructions are provided in the manual. This checklist assumes that you have a 'stock' PixCon16 to start with.Critical checkpoints points are in bold, but you may experience a problem at any step. If you are having problems at a checkpoint, check ALL steps up to this one to ensure they are completed properly.The PixCon16 is a professional level board, and does require some in-depth knowledge about how E1.31 works, DMX and networking concepts. You may need to consult other sources if you run into issues or do not understand a concept. If you do have an issue and if you think everything is good to that point, and you would like to contact us for help STOP. Do not go further and do NOT change any configuration. If you would like to experiment and try to resolve the issue, please do! We encourage you to find the solution on your own. However if in the end you must contact us, reset the board and start again at step 1 and then stop at the failing step and contact us. We rely on the board being in a known state at every step of this checklist to help you.Please ensure that you have AT LEAST S4 V4.3.14 Or Higher to configure the board. Some older versions may not be able to properly detect the Pixcon16. Pixels have a front and a back (IN and OUT). Ensure you know which side data goes IN to. Pixels from LOR are plainly marked, or are correctly pre-wired. if your pixels have an arrow, that arrow points AWAY from the board. Pixels have a voltage. Ensure you have the proper power supply. LOR Pixels are typically 5v or 12v. If your pixel package from LOR included a power supply, you do not need to worry about this step. Pixels have current draw (amperage). Ensure you are not exceeding the amps per channel/power supply/etc. Pixels from LOR will draw 3A per 50 pixels at 5V (15 Watts), 3A per 100 pixels at 12V (36 Watts). If you pixel package from LOR included a power supply, you do not need to worry about this step. Wire power supply to PixCon16, if not already wired. Remember – never connect or disconnect anything from PixCon16 with power applied. Power up board. Follow instructions in "An Introduction to DMX and E1.31 for Pixel Control" document if needed (linked below). Open Network Preferences/Find Configure PixCon16/Click on PixCon16 in list, and open the PixCon16 configuration window. Only work with a SINGLE PixCon16 connected to your network at one time until properly configured -- IP address conflicts can occur if you attempt to configure 2 or more. Do not continue until you are able to reliably talk to the board and configure it. If you are having difficulty reliably talking to the board, read: http://www1.lightorama.com/PDF/IntroductionToDMXandE131.pdf Pay particular attention to page 8. Firmware will NEVER fix connection problems you are having at step 6! Connection problems are ALWAYS CONFIGURATION ISSUES between your computer and the PixCon16! Never attempt to update firmware on a board that you can NOT reliably talk to and configure. Attempting to update firmware on a PixCon16/Computer combination that is NOT configured properly WILL BRICK THE BOARD. There are TWO different versions of the PixCon16, and each requires different firmware. Please carefully look at your board. If next to the name you see "MkII" or a small round white sticker that says "ECO", you have a MARK II board. If you do not see MkII or ECO, then you have an ORIGINAL board. Both boards work identically, but require different firmware versions. On Tab 3 (Misc) you will find the current firmware version of your board. For ORIGINAL boards: Ensure board firmware is AT LEAST 1.4.8 (or higher) For MARK II boards: Ensure board firmware is AT LEAST 2.0.13 (or higher) WARNING! Do NOT downgrade if you have a higher firmware version! WARNING! When applying new firmware ensure you have the CORRECT firmware. DO NOT USE MKII firmware on an original board (or vice versa). Incorrectly updating firmware will brick the board requiring special software to recover! Do not continue until firmware is at least this version or higher. If you need to update the firmware, please reply to this ticket with the version of your PixCon (Original or MKII) and we will send you the correct firmware. You will need to confirm that you are ALWAYS successful at step 6! Properly set up Pixel Type and Pixel Speed in configuration. Ignore all other parameters. LOR Pixels are WS2811. Most are high-speed. Properly wire 1 pixel string to a 4 wire connector. Follow pin-outs in the manual. Note -- Some pixels do not have/require the clock signal. Connect pixels to a single port, and power up. Pixels may briefly flash. Pixels that stay ON indicate incorrect pixel type or speed selected in #8. For LOR Pixels, ensure that you selected 'High Speed'. If High Speed does not work (it should in almost all cases), select slow speed. Run hardware test on the pixels as documented in manual by using the buttons on the PixCon16. If pixels do not work, problem is most likely #8. Go back there. Do not continue until the Hardware Test works properly. Wire the rest of your pixels to the 4 wire connectors. Connect them to the PixCon16. Run the hardware test (step 11) again. Ensure all pixels are working correctly. Pixels that are not working indicate a problem with the pixel itself, or an under-rated power supply. Do not continue until the Hardware Test works properly for ALL pixels. Again bring the PixCon16 configuration up. On the first tab of PixCon16 configuration, ensure you have the correct option specified for J3/J4. If you will use the board in ELOR mode, turn this option ON. For E1.31 ensure this option is OFF. If you have not done so yet, install the drivers for the USB adapter and ensure the USB adapter is working properly. On the Second tab set up each port of the PixCon16 properly. You can use simple mode or advanced mode. All options are documented in the help file for the software or in the manual for the PixCon16. Remember, for E1.31 universes must also be set up in Network Preferences (the software will offer to do it for you), for ELOR, 500K speed and Enhanced Light-O-Rama network (done in step 16). It is best to write down the settings. Ensure you have the LOR Control Panel loaded (which will load the LOR COMM Listener). The COMM Listener is ALWAYS required to control pixels. Properly configure your network preferences: E1.31: Ensure Universe matches universe on the board & Set IP address correctly (multicast or unicast/specify). It is easiest to use multicast. ELOR: Ensure the COM port is set to at least 500K and ELOR mode is turned ON. Properly connect networking: E1.31: Do not make any changes. Both LEDs should be SOLID ON. Do not continue until they are. NOTE: Your computer may need to be rebooted. If you reboot go back to step 15. ELOR: Disconnect Network cable, ensure jumpers on PixCon16 for J3/J4 are set to LOR. Connect HS USB adapter to computer, CAT5 from USB adapter to J4 of PixCon16. NOTE: You must have previously installed the drivers for the high speed USB adapter. Use another non-PixCon16 unit to test if you are unsure the USB adapter is working properly. Both LEDs should be SOLID ON. Do not continue until they are. NOTE: Your computer may need to be rebooted. If you reboot go back to step 15. Start Hardware Utility. If asked if the HWU should take control of a port say NO. Open the pixel console. Set Pixel Console params correctly and test pixels with sliders. Do not continue until you can successfully control pixels. Your board is now ready to use.
  15. The ticket system is now back up and operational.
  16. We are about 1/2 way though the update. The ETA for the ticket system is 3PM EDT.
  17. The main updates to the ticket system have started. The ticket system will be down for several hours (or longer).
  18. I saw the other Expo post, so that reminded me I want to give a few more tips for FL. 1 - The greatest threat you are going to run into here are not gators or thunderstorms (they are #2) - It's the sun. I AM SERIOUS. Don't be a tourist, wear your sunscreen! If you plan on being outside for longer than 5-10 minutes during daylight, PUT IT ON. In 10 mins you WILL burn. The UV index will be 11 in July (and no, that's not a Spinal Tap reference). You are MUCH closer to the equator here than in most of the rest of the USA. The rays are MUCH stronger. We joke around here that we have to put sunscreen on to check the mailbox - but it's not that far from the truth! Also remember that it takes about 20-30 minutes after applying sunscreen for it to come up to max protection so put it on BEFORE you go out. Your sunscreen should be SPF30-SPF50 and be WIDE SPECTRUM (UV-A and UV-B). Less SPF is NOT effective here, and more is a waste of money. Re-apply every hour or two - more often if you sweat a lot and every 30 mins if you are in the water. Not all clothes provide good sun protection. Personally I apply over my entire body unless there are TWO layers (so everywhere except where the tighty-whities are ). It is possible to be burnt THROUGH you clothes. Don't forget areas like your face (especially your nose) and your EARS. If you are of advancing years and have less up top than you used to, make sure you get the bald spots too! I reserve the right to point and laugh at anyone attending expo who looks like a crab. 2 - The second greatest threat is LIGHTNING. It's going to rain pretty much EVERY DAY you are here, but not for a long period of time. Here on the peninsula you should be able to set your watch by the times the storms run through. In West Central FL (that's over here in Tampa/St Pete), it's between 4PM and 6PM (depending on how close to the coast you are). If I remember correctly, the Orlando area is in the 2-3PM range. I'm not sure what Daytona/etc will be, and south FL (Miami) is weird because it's 3 sides water. In any event, the storms typically start in the center of the peninsula, and then move outwards towards the coasts. And when I say storms, I mean STORMS! The rain can (and usually does) come down hard enough that you can not see across the street. But unless you are driving (good luck) it's not the rain you need to watch out for: it's the lighting that will kill you. FL is the lightning capital of the USA (not the world, that's places in Africa). And the worst part of FL for lighting is Lightning Alley which extends (you guessed it) from TAMPA through Titusville (which is near Daytona). So not only are you in the lighting capital, you are in the worst part of it. About 10 people a year die here from lightning strikes. FL has on average 1,200,000 lightning strikes during the year. That sounds high until you realize it is MUCH worse: Most of those strikes occur June-September with the rest of the months much more calm. Storms here can have up to 1000 strikes/hr - that's about 17 PER MINUTE - once every 3 to 4 seconds. Did you know that most lightning comes out the BACK of the storm? So many beach goers see the storm coming and (correctly) move to shelter. the storm passes and they are back out on the sand. The sky is blue, and the clouds are moving away. ZOT! The proverbial 'Bolt from the blue'. Remember the simple rule: if you can hear thunder you are close enough to be hit by lightning. https://www.tripsavvy.com/lightning-is-serious-risk-in-florida-1513642 3 - Yes we have gators. Yes they can kill you. No you don't have to worry about them since you probably won't run into them (unless you go looking). Just be aware that any body of water here CAN have a gator. That means small retention ponds, springs, etc. But you are more likely to be killed by what you don't see in those waters (Naegleria fowleri).
  19. The LOR Help Desk System (ticket system) will be undergoing maintenance starting today and going through sometime Monday [as long as we don't run into any issues]. During these times, the help desk website (helpdesk.lightorama.com) may be unresponsive or otherwise broken. Should you experience any issues, please try back a little later.
  20. That's the rule of thumb for 5V pixels ONLY, not 12V. At 12 V they probably shouldn't be (but again, this depends on MFG). At 12V the rule of thumb says they should be drawing somewhere around .034 each (100 * .034 = 3.4A +/-) AGAIN - you can NOT consider voltage and/or amperage separately. They go HAND IN HAND. This is electricity and it is UNFORGIVING. Please take the time to properly learn the math. It really isn't hard. Let's take the time and show a real world example. Take a look at this strip: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-Quality-Price-Red-Smd-5050_60798926705.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.90.321d5951DMrwYV So we have to do a little reading between the lines since this is China. From what I can make out, this particular strip can be mfg as 12V, 24V or 48V, and is 12 pixels/m (60 pixels total) and draws 72w. Q1: Can a PixCon16 safely run this entire strip at 12V without injection? Q2: How about 24V? Q3: 48V? So the first thing you better notice is that this is 60 pixels, NOT 50 or 100. Right there the rules-of-thumb need to be thrown out. But you say 'Hey, 60 is less than 100 so at 12V I'm good." Nope. Read the answers below.... A1 - 12V? No way Jose! The specs say 72w. At 12V that is 6A (72/12 = 6). 6 > 4. Board go BOOM. A2 - 24V? Sure will. At 24V this strip draws 3A (72/24 = 3). Board is happy. A3 - 48V? No way Jose! WHAT?! I hear you.. You are saying 72/48 = 1.5A! That's fine! Now go read the PixCon16 specifications. It is ONLY rated to 30V. While the Amperage is good, the voltage will make board go BOOM! (page 30). So what did we learn here? Just because we have less than 100 pixels does NOT mean we can run this strip on a pixel controller at 12V! This strip of 60 pixels consumes 6A 50% more than the board rating. The 'rule of thumb' is completely shattered. You MUST consult with the mfg before real world applications. You need to consider BOTH amperage AND voltage together. At 24V this strip and the controller work just fine together. At 12 things go boom. At 48 we are below the amperage rating.... BUT! You can't just forget about Voltage! At 48V this strip comes in at 1.5A which is well below the rating of 4A. HOWEVER the voltage of 48 is well ABOVE what the board is designed to handle. Is the rule of thumb worthless then? Nope. It is a VERY valuable tool. It WILL handle 95% of situations. But be sure you use that tool correctly. It will work great for back of the envelope ESTIMATES - most pixel controllers are good for 4A per port, most will run 5v or 12v and most pixel strings you find fall into the 18w/50@5V or 35w/100@12V. But that does not mean: Your pixels don't draw MORE amps than the rule Your pixels don't run at something other than 5V or 12V Your pixel controller supports the amperage OR voltage or POWER consumed. TL;DR: Before applying power and destroying your pixels, your controller, or possibly the house they are attached to you need to do the REAL math. The real math comes from the values in the specifications from the mfg of both the pixels AND the pixel controller. Or purchase everything from us, do it the way we tell you, and don't worry about it
  21. OP: Please open a help desk ticket since you can re-create this bug. That way we can make sure we track it.
  22. The only way to sync video output is to use a computer. Mp3 directors can not output video.
  23. I was the one working your ticket. I have assigned it to Matt since he was the person requesting the files. He should be able to get you going.
  24. I'd say 95% of weird communications issues are solved by either a reset of all the equipment, or replacing a bad cable. The reset is cheap (free!) and fast. It should be the first tool in your troubleshooting bag.
  25. When you see MORE or LESS units than you are expecting, that is typically a controller that needs to be reset OR dirty communications. Also remember that weird things like this may NOT be where you expect. You are getting multiple CMB24s, but the issue may NOT be the CMB24 - it could be something else which is forcing the CMB24 to act screwy. First, reset ALL of your controllers using the instructions in the manuals. A power on/off is NOT a reset. Now test again and see if things are better. If not, the next thing to do is changing out all the CAT 5 cable. If you haven't, please open a help desk ticket so we can help.
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