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About lleibeck

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  • Location
    Atlantic Beach
  • Occupation

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  • Interests
    Lights and more lights
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Christmas, are there others???
  1. Thank you whyintheworld. Not sure I want to trace that far back considering we have a bathroom remodel in the future. Maybe we will just work back to box and terminate the run and put in a new run/cirduit. L
  2. Do you think it could be a quality of the LED's or do all have the same sensitivity?
  3. Hi, This past summer we switched out some incandescent bulbs for LED's inside the house. We running the same display as last year but now the new LED's in the house flicker/dim/blink when the show runs. No other lights in the house are doing this. Any ideas? I am going to put incandescent back in for and switched them back out after Christmas. Thank you, Lee
  4. Hi, Tried Teamviewer, works great. I also feel comfortable leaving the show unattended as I use my iPhone to connect to the show pc to verify the show is running. Thanks to all for the suggestions. Ler
  5. Does anyone know of an App that can be used to send a signal to a controller? Instead of always having to walk back to the computer it would be handy to turn channels off and on from the display. Lee
  6. Have you tried using the hardware utility to access the controller? If not, try it. You should be able to control the lights via the utility. If you can, next question is do you have a license for the software or are you using the demo?
  7. Are the controllers connected via Easy Linker?
  8. I based my arches off of Holdman's ( http://www.holdman.com/christmas/projects.asp ). 20 feet of PVC pipe ( I used two 10 footers), divided into nine sections, each section has 200 incandescent mini lights. I did run in to some issues with the controllers keeping up. The symptom was section stuck on, not all sections lighting. I after several posts on the forum and no resolution I tried taking the Easy Linker out and connected the controllers via wire. It worked no problems. One other tip I would suggest, make up a wire harness to connect the arch with the controllers. Number the arch section male plug, mark a corresponding female plug on wire harness with the same number. Then mark the male plug on the harness with the controller channel. I have 4 arches, 36 channels, hooked up to the controllers in under 10 minutes and no incorrectly connected wires. Lee
  9. I just purchased the yellow version at Ace Hardware, cost $25. Did not know about the other version. In about an hour I fixed 3 large snow flakes. The snow flakes are a challenge due to the way the wiring is done. Seeing how these snow flakes cost $25 at Target, I am ahead by $50. Going to look into the Green unit. Lee
  10. That's howi label my cords. Find it gives the most flexibility since the cords are not marked to indicate a channel. Makes it easy when trying to trace cords at night. I have made wiring harnesses for my arches using SPT wire and zip ties. For these I do label the controller and channel. The advantages of not having to locate the segment to match the channel, priceless. I can also have a helper set the arches up. We are able to get 4 arches up and running in under 25 minutes.
  11. Or, another option is to get a man lift. We put all the lights up on two houses, the oak tree and then trim up neighbors tress as a way to say thank you for putting up with all the traffic. No ladders are used on our display, at all.
  12. You can look at a pluming supply company for PVC DWV (drain waste vent) reducer to fit your need. The local home stores did not carry the adapter size i needed. Look in the drain pipe section, not the regular PVC side. The reason I did not wrap an 1 1/4 pipe is this size gives some mass (4") since I plan to have 5 of these spread between two yards. L
  13. I am almost done building five 8 channel light towers from Christmas Light Show. I thought I would share some tips: 1. Use a chop saw with a stop so all lengths of pipe are cut to same length. 2. Use hex head self tapping screws. The hex head makes it easier than using philips head that come with the kit. 3. Drill a couple holes at each end to facilitate zip ties to hold light strings. 4. I used my grill rotisserie to help wrap the lights around pipe. 5. Build a wiring harness for each tower, label the female end with the channel and the male end with the controller/channel. Here is the link from Christmas Light Show that has a video on what the towers looks like. http://www.christmaslightshow.com/light-tower-stacker-8-channel-kit.html Lee Attached files
  14. I just upgraded an out of warranty LOR1602W to 40 AMPS. I was pulling 17.5 amps which in long periods of all lights on was blowing the fuse. Figured it would be easier to upgrade than try moving the load around to other controllers and chewing up those channels. I did not want to use the fuse holders on the board, wanted to keep as close to original as possible. I was going to post step by step directions but was worried someone not to knowledgeable with electricity might try and either ruin their controller or worse. So here are some tips that might helps you. I purchased the new fuse holders and switch from Mouser electronics www.mouser.com 504-BK/HTB-66I-R Cooper Bussmann Fuseholders, Clips, & Hardware PANEL MOUNT $3.84 each, need two 540-YRM32F2FBBNN Cherry Electrical Rocker Switches & Paddle Switches 0.25 QC ON-OFF $1.89 You will need to upgrade the power cords. I used the two ten foot ext cords I used to power the controller. You will also need to upgrade the jumpers using 18" of AWG 12 stranded wire and female push on terminals to make jumpers. ...and of two 20 amp fast acting fuses. The hardest part was getting the 12 AWG neutral wires from the power cord attached to the terminal block. I tried tinning the end, but could not get it to fit. It took me a little over an hour which included drawing a wiring schematic before thing anything part. Be sure to relabel the box so your remember it's a 40 amp controller. Good luck. Lee
  15. One of my controllers (LOR1602W) is max'd out (amps) and we would like to add some more lights to that . The show runs great so I am a bit nervous to add anew controller and adjust all the sequences. I was wondering if I could add another controller and set its id to match the existing controller. I would have 2 unit 2's. I figure the hardware utility would count the two units as one since they are the same. I could then re distribute the power load between the two controllers. Will this work? Don't really want to experiment and cause a problem preventing the show from working. Lee
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