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dave carlstedt

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About dave carlstedt

  • Rank
    Member

More About Me

  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    news on line
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    halloween

Profile Information

  • Occupation
    retired

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    3.0.4
  • License Level
    N/A
  1. ac timer? no for one, it requires 60 hertz to operate....(in ac) 12v timers can be found on google....ranging from $30 to over $200 If you search, you may find a kit to build for less...
  2. not sure what exactly you are trying to do. What do you want the sensor to activate...or deactivate??? Try to be more specific... Do you wish to have one of the circuits to be "On" to the PIR and then the PIR to be "On" but only when activated???
  3. So, If I understand this correctly.... If i copy this arrangement, I will have two wires (one neg. from the 9v. supply and one neg from the 6v. supply) both going into the one G (on the side connector block.) connector. Pleas advise if this is correct...thanks
  4. as an additional thought, relays have coils which are inductive...so, would an optical or solid-state relay be the final answer to eliminate all inductance...?
  5. If i upgrade my computer to 64 bit processor, does LOR software run on it without issues? I am currently using S2 thanks
  6. If you want to avoid any electrical work, use some fiber optics. You may find some in an old decoration such as a fiber optic lamp or whatever. (I have a Christmas decoration with a load of it) You may luck out finding some at a salvation army store, or buy it online. It is not cheap, but you will not need much. It can be set up to transfer the light from the LED inside to the outside of your box. Just a different way of doing it. If you are unfamiliar with fiber optics, it is just lengths of fiber that transfers incoming lite on one end, and sends it, without any power, to the the opposite end. Very efficient, as well.
  7. I have used servocity products as previously mentioned. They are not the cheapest, but have some unique items and are quick in delivery. I have also ordered bulk servo wire (50'), as well. http://www.servocity.com/html/servo_wire__bulk_.html And, if you don't wish to assemble your own connectors, you can order the short lengths of ready made M/F connectors. Not sure of max length to operate a servo, but I tested mine at 10' and no problems.
  8. How far from the controller (servo dog) can a servo operate? Not wireless, but hard wired. thanks
  9. I would be very interested in the point where hotspots appear. Or, at what minimum distance do the colors lose saturation and become individual colors...as I plan on using them in a close range. I have a Chauvet color pallette, which is great, but that requires a dmx control, which I am trying very hard to avoid. Hopefully it functions in the range the pallette works.. thanks "It's a bright ass flood light! What more do you need to know"? that is what i need to know....
  10. As previously asked, anyway to see it in action. It said there is no hotspot....but, at what minimum distance must it be used to avoid any hot spot. I would like to use it in a small theater for puppets. but not sure if it will create individual colors (RBG) rather than a blend of color.... thanks
  11. I have a Servodog and have numerous questions...please speak in layman's terms, and if you can cite examples, I understand much better. The servo part I understand, however, it is the other channels, M1, M2 connection and the I/O part I have trouble with. My unit is not hooked up yet, so I am not aware of how the SD will appear with the other controllers when doing a sequence. Will the sequencing software display all the channels of the SD, as well? Q1. When I hookup the SD to the controller, and create a sequence, will the SD appear on the screen as the other controller channels do? That is, channels all lined up horizontally and identified for creating a sequence? Q2. A quick explanation of how to use M1 and M2. (Examples, please) Will they show up as well when the controller is on and ready to start a sequence? Q3. How may I use the I/O section...is this a stand alone section of the board, with only the input effecting the output through (2 bit) on/off options only... I see no indication of polarity, as well. As stated, examples would be great. All are welcome to answer. Thanks a lot for any clarifications....I have had no luck with youtube or the data guide. Also, how does one know what the polarity of M1 and M2 are? Is it something obvious...cuz I don't know.... For some, this may seem obvious, but for me, very hard to figure out. thanks one and all. dave
  12. without understanding your entire configuration, check one end of each conductor to the other end (after going thru couplings and connectors) that you didnt have a crossover somewhere in the run(s). You should have straight thru wiring. Most all of cat 5 is type "b", but if you included a type "a" somewhere, it may have caused a problem..
  13. KB are you suggesting this additional circuitry because, and only because of the inductive circuit? rather than resistive? If so, it is not necesary, as LOR has assured me the board (with mosfets) can handle the motor...unlike the CTB16 board, which is only safely used for resistive loads. (Triacs) I am only going by what I was told. If this sounds incorrect, please clarify. Thanks.
  14. A minimum of 12v. is needed to at least one side (1-8) is required to power the board in and of itself.
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