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Al Saunders

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Al Saunders last won the day on November 25 2019

Al Saunders had the most liked content!

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About Al Saunders

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  • Birthday 04/12/1971

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  • Location
    Centreville, MD
  • Occupation
    Insurance Underwriter

More About Me

  • Interests
    Classic cars, history of Ford and Henry Ford and of course Christmas decorating especially lighting!
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?

LOR Software

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  1. I too looked into it a few years ago. To me it was very hard to understand, especially trying to get the timings from Audacity to their sequencing software. From what I saw in videos, read and over heard in person at mini's I formed an opinion for a difference between LOR and X-Lights. To me, LOR is a true sequencing software. With LOR you have very specific control of timings with normal lights as well as pixels/RGB lights. To me, X-Lights is an "effects generator" in that you pick an effect like snowfall, fire, spinning and you drop it at a certain timing for a specific length of time and that effect is done to a lot of your display. This is great if you have everything being pixels and want your whole display to spin together or all your pixel trees and matrixes doing the same thing. But if you use regular light strings, be them LED or incans and want groups of strings doing one thing while another group does another but still in unison, my opinion is LOR gives you much better, more precise control. If you jump into the pixel world completely X-Lights might be a good option but for me, I use mostly light strings and only some pixels/RGB elements. I'm a fan of LOR and will always back their way of doing things. Disclaimer: I am still running S4 and am holding off on S5 as long as I can. I have taken several classes on S5 at Christmas Expos and have a general understanding of it but I really LOVE S4 and will hold out as long as I can. One last thing, S5 is also a "kind of" effects generator but it still retains the sequencing grid that we LOR users really love. Plus you can integrate Superstar into it pretty easily. I'm sure some may disagree with me but that's ok. We are all entitled to our own opinion. Hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas and had lots of people enjoy your display/shows. Al
  2. We usually have 7 songs and they loop the whole time during show hours. We run 6-9:30 Sun - Thursday then 6-10 on Friday and Saturday. I feel this gives viewers enough songs to watch and then when they hear/see a repeat they will move on unless they really love something and want to wait longer. Even though I have a good amount of viewing space I don't want several cars staying for long periods of time. Hope this helps. Al
  3. Hi Phil, Actually the white when on full looks fine. It's the fading of the red color looks pinkish during the fading. I'm going to add a second power supply to have each bank being powered by a 200w PS. I didn't know of limiting the intensity on pixels. I have several sequences that are all maxing out at 100%. They are bright, that's for sure. Thanks for the info. Hope everyone has a Happy Thanksgiving! Al
  4. So the LOR help desk was very helpful and instructed me to reset the CMB24 with toggle #12. That worked and got the strings to fade properly and the sequences run fine. This being my first time with RGB pixels, it looks like the red seem to fade to pink when not at full power. Like either dimming up or dimming down they look pinkish. Is this typical of these types of lights/pixels? Or is this happening due to them being only powered by the one 200w power supply? Would adding a second PS and putting one on each bank help with the fading? Thanks, Al
  5. Hey Guys, Thanks for the replies and info. I guess I didn't word my question about the power supply too well. The power supply I have now has two leads coming from the power supply that each have a red + lead and a black - lead. I was wondering if I need to put both positive leads and both negative leads from THE SAME power supply to each bank (One on top the other). Or should I use one lead and cover the other lead of the power supply? And then do the same with the second power supply for the other bank of the CMB24? So one red and one black on each bank of the CMB24 or two reds and two blacks on each bank of the CMB24? In looking over the specs of the LOR power supply I'm thinking I need to have both reds and both blacks on the one power lead for each bank of the CMB24. I entered a LOR ticket and was advised to reset the CMB24 just in case something got mixed up somewhere. I really do appreciate the help and any other input. Thanks, Al
  6. Ok, so when in the Pixel Console it is on CMB24 as in the picture above and I select the correct unit id to test. I get blinking/flashing as I fade a color up from 0 to 100. At 100 it holds the color fine. Last night I had all of the frames lit on white at 100% and my single 200w LOR power supply was powering them. When I went and ran a sequence the blinking/flashing happened at every fade. It looks as if white is flashed VERY QUICKLY during the fades both up or down from 100% of the programmed/sequenced color. If I end up having to add a second power supply, do both power leads from the power supply go to each bank of the CMB24 or just one of the two leads from the PS? This is the big WOW thing this year, so I really need these to work. I appreciate any advice you all may have. Thanks, Al
  7. Ok sounds good. I'll look into those power supply. The blink I'm getting is a major blink, almost strobe like. What I'm not understanding is why when I only have one 50 node string hooked up and ramp up the power in the pixel console the light flashes as it ramps up to 100% power. With one string I'm no where near the power limit, I would think. Thanks, Al
  8. Yeah I used the pixel console for the CMB24 and the light console for my 1602 controllers. I don't remember clicking on a button for a CMB24 controller but will try that later. Yes, the controller is set to #7 by the dip switches 000000111000 on the board. Thanks, Al
  9. Good Morning Guys, I now know I need to get another power supply as I looked at the LOR store and this is what I'm using: PS-LED-12V-200W. So it's only 200 watt and I'm powering both banks with it. But the other thing is during setup and testing I only had two strings plugged into two ports of the CMB24. Each string was only 50 pixels. When using the Hardware Utility the string blinked as I bright the power level (fade) up. When on 100% whatever color I was using it worked fine. Last night I had all windows on different colors all at 100%, each frame had 100 pixels on them and two of the channels (ports) only had 50 pixels on them and they were on the color I chose. Each of the colors were the basic red, green or blue. I need to run the speed lower than 500K because of the A/C channels on the same (regular) network. I noticed as I slowed the speed the blinking got slower but still blinked. Why would the string blink when powering up on the pixel control board in HU? Does the controller know it's not being powered enough even without the load being applied? Thanks for the help. Al
  10. Hello Everyone, I have a CMB24 controller being powered by the LOR power supply. I have Holiday Coro 12V dumb pixels in window frames. Each frame has 2 strings of 50 pixels on it. I just ran a test sequence and during all the fading the strings blink badly, mostly white while changing from the desired color to black or to another desired color in the sequence. In the Hardware Utility if I pick a color and put it at 100% the string looks perfect. If I use the pixel controller in HU, while fading up the string blinks until it gets to 100%. I am reading over the manual and will double check my power hook ups tomorrow. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is going on and how I can fix this so the fades are done properly? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Al
  11. Thanks Everyone. I'm very thankful that I was blessed by the fall not doing more damage. I'm a big guy and I've been joking with my wife that I guess I'm not a "Bumble" that bounces! LOL Today is the first day back in the office and I'm doing pretty good with a small pillow behind me. We decided we will look into renting a lift for both setup and take down next year. Thankfully since my accident I've only had to sneeze and cough once. The sneeze wasn't too bad since I could kind of hold it in but the cough about sent me to tears!
  12. Hi Everyone, Just wanted to remind everyone to be careful out there. I wasn't being as careful as I should Friday 11/8/19 and as I was QUICKLY going up a 12' A frame ladder I felt as though it was buckling or folding under me. I panicked and fell/jumped off from about 6 feet up and ended up landing on my back and fracturing a rib on my right side. Thankfully I had a major portion of our display done when this happened. I still have a lot to do and all last week I barely left the house as just deep breathing was sometimes painful. With some help this weekend I'm hoping to get most remaining things done so I just need to complete the connections. So we all tend to take for granted climbing up and down ladders during our setup and take downs but please be careful out there so you don't end up in the back of an ambulance like I did! Happy Lighting everyone!
  13. Thanks Jim and JR. I just checked and I'm running 4.3.22 Pro so I should be good version wise and I have two red adapters. Jim, I was planning on having the Superstar sequences for the CCRII tree imported to SE as data file and will take your advise in using the enhanced network. I didn't get a chance to try my animation sequence to see how it looks but will soon. Thanks guys, Al
  14. Thanks guys. I admit that at first I had dip switches 10-12 selected to 'On' instead of switches 7-9 to make the unit be unit #7. So it went into a reboot mode "I think" as it had a blinking LED status and in HU it displayed something like bootlog or something for the unit name/number. I went ahead and downloaded the newest firmware and installed it on the CMB24. I'm thinking of doing a short animation sequence using all 8 channels with slow fades and color changes and running that to see how it reacts. I think my LOR1600W's are all Gen 3 since they have the LED display for unit id number. I currently have 8 A/C controllers and one CMD24 for my floods and am planning on adding this 2nd CMB24 for the RGB window frames and a Pixie16 for a CCRII tree. These are 12V strings so I'm pretty confident that two strips per port on the CMB24 is fine as the total number of pixels is 100. And thanks for the info on using the channel config tool.
  15. Hi Everyone. Didn't find what I needed by searching and not sure which forum to post in so please move if needed. I am setting up my second CMB24 controller. The first works fine on the regular network for my 8 CCR Floods. It's running slower speed and there is a bit of lag so I need to move to Aux. A network and use the 500K speed with my red connector. The issue I am having when testing this 2nd CMB is that in the HU I can change the pixels to the three basic colors just fine. When running a sequence that has RGB channels the two strings are blinking as they are changing colors. I'm going to test again but it also looks as if the colors in the sequence are not always the ones I'm seeing being outputted on the strings. These will be RGB window frames, dumb RGB and are 50 pixels each and each window will have two strings on it. The strings came from HolidayCoro and seem to be working fine. Could the blinking be from only having two strings connected? The sequence doesn't have this blinking to it, everything is pretty smooth. Second question is how do i change the network my RGB items will be on? I want to run my regular A/C controllers on the regular slower speed network and have all RGB/CCR items on Aux. A network running 500k speed. And one final question, how do you setup having two ports going for the two networks? My network preferences have Com7 running the regular LOR network and I manually chose Com8 to run 500k Aux A network. Or...the other option would be to run everything on the regular network at 500k speed and only use Gen 3 A/C controllers. I have several of the metal boxed controllers and only one is gen 2 based on it having the dials to change the unit id's. Anyway, thanks for any advice and info. Have a great day. Al
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