Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About lkinsey

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    5222 E Woodglenn Rd., Mead, WA
  • Occupation
    thinking up new passwords

More About Me

  • Interests
    expanding my LOR show
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    Many years ago now
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?

Recent Profile Visitors

97 profile views
  1. I started around 2005 with 2 16 channel controllers and now have 12 including 2 led controllers. I've faithfully re-installed my show every year since other than one year. I agree that it has to be a labor of love but that dosen't mean that it can't be modernized and simplified to re-install. And that means having at least some of the more complicated set-ups permanently installed. The outdoor Christmas light industry today has no interest in promoting or building such lights as there is currently no interest in this direction. What I would like to see is an expansion of light displays to cover the memorial times of the year such as Easter and the 4th of July and Halloween and Thanksgiving and of course Christmas. If the lights are already there, then the only labor involved is plugging in my wee laptop
  2. I will be 80 shortly and have the normal pains and weakness (probably more) of any one my age but instead of quitting or "going dark" I'm trying to figure out ways to keep my lights up permanently. Such as; Using more ribbon lights that are more easily hidden when not used. Under my gutters in one case burying or hiding lights which are almost invisible from the street when not used. I don't want any flack from neighbors or my HOA about Christmas lights being left out all year but with a little ingenuity and imagination I believe that permanent lights will be easy to manage from year to year and allow me to have a light show 4 0r 5 times a year for the different seasons. I'm currently working on a Spring/Easter show. I would welcome suggestions on this topic of permanent lights. This of course won't help anyone's traffic problem but I believe that traffic problems arise from creating a site that has so many attraction that it becomes a must see thing. a better site may be something that can't be seen by satellite but is more imaginative and ingenious. We old folks may not be limber anymore but we can still be creative.
  3. With the exception of Background running a sequence, I'm unaware of how in the world it's possible to run more than one sequence at a time so I don't normally worry about having the same channel being used by different sequences. I'm now aware of the limitations of using Background and I would appreciate a link to any explanation or warning of using the same channel in more than one sequence when using Background. Until there is such an explanation or warning, I still consider this a bug. Again, this was not a problem in a previous release.
  4. I too experienced this problem with v 3.8 and never had the problem with v 2.9 I turn on my transmitter and sign with a background sequence and noticed that they would turn off and on between the show sequences which was unacceptable, especially for my transmitter. Before I read the above posts, I reasoned that the other sequences had to be clear on that particular channel but didn't think that just a blank channel would cause the problem. In my case I had to delete the channels in 13 sequences which was time consuming and in my opinion shouldn't have been necessary. Thanks to all the folks above that found the solution. Hopefully, LOR will recognise it as a bug and fix it or supply a batch solution to delete channels for multiple sequences. .
  5. I have two revolving controllers with an ell attached to one and the other daisy chained. The transmitting stationary ell is just inches away. I had some skips where the lights weren't resetting so I added tin foil around so the antennas wouldn't be so directionally sensitive and then reduced the power down to 1 mw. Pretty happy with the ells overall. Hope this helps. Larry k.
  6. LightORamaDan wrote: None of the current line of light controllers has an internal clock. I think it has been 4 or 5 years since we sold them with clocks. Alrighty, I'll go with my external timer/relay plan. Thanks for the info. Larry.......
  7. LightORamaDan wrote: I assume then that some controllers have clocks but mine doesn't and that the hardware program is generic to all controllers. I would like to know which controllers have internal clocks for future purchases. I'll go with the external timer and relay then for now. Thanks for the info. Larry.......
  8. LightORamaDan wrote: From the tone of your note, it would appear that I've been using my controller improperly. You imply that the controller can be used by the computer or as a standalone but not both at the same time with any predictable results, too bad. Not sure how to do what I want now. I could of course program my "off hours" lights keeping my computer running all the time or use a timer driving a relay to differentiate between show time and off hours operation for the lights. I'll probably go with the timer/relay setup using the controllers open switch trigger condition. It appears that the standalone feature has a built in timer or clock but mine is grayed out. That would be perfect if it worked. Any solutions in this regard? Larry......
  9. rmturner54 wrote: They're also part of the show so they need to be connected to a controller. To connect lights to a controller and a timer, one would need to use relays which I'm familiar with but that makes it unnecessarily more complicated and trouble prone. Larry.....
  10. cmoore60 wrote: Hey Chuck, I thought I responded here but apparently not. I am running the show via computer for 5 hours a day and then I have a string or two on for the other 19 hours. It seems a little overkill to tie up the computer for that long and have a show running just to keep static lights going. One possible workaround would be to insert a short on/off sequence in that respective controller every 20 seconds during this lapse time to delay the autostart feature. This is pretty crude versus having the option programmed in by LOR but then, I'm not in the driver seat here. Larry.......
  11. Make that "CTB 16D" When my show ends at 10:00 PM, I like certain lights to remain on during the night and I do this by having a controller run it's standalone mode after the show. It's triggered by "Run when power is on". The trigger with a clock function is grayed out. This auto-triggering commences about 20 seconds after the show is finished which is fine but sometimes triggers when that controller is inactive for the 20 seconds during the show which is not fine. Can this 20 seconds be changed? Why is the clock trigger grayed out? Does version 2.4.4 make this optional? Thanks for any help offered. Larry........
  12. The previous link is in error, sorry about that. Please use: http://www.kinseyse.com/FW_demo_2.ram Larry.....
  13. Alrighty, here is my second demo link. http://www.kinseyse.com/FW_demo_2.rm While I've enhanced the sequence a bit I believe the quality of the video is worse. I blame it all on my video editor. (don't ask) Anyway, I hope you get the idea. Larry.....
  14. For those that are interested, I've put a demo clip on my site at: http://www.kinseyse.com/FW_demo_1.ram It's data streamed now but still a copy of a previous one that's pretty crude and without music. I'm still trying to put together a good demo or maybe just clip a copy of my last sequence. Larry......
  15. Jeff Millard wrote: Hey Jeff, I can't answer you about the possibility of passing a signal through my brushes as I've never looked at the power on a scope. A signal would have much less amperage also which might effect how much noise is generated by the brushes. I've been thinking about your Ferris Wheel and the possibilities. First, I'll assume that it'll be more conventional looking in that it'll be supported on both sides instead of one like mine. This has a lot of pluses. Industrial slip rings tend to be of a design to go on the end of a shaft instead of the middle like mine. That means that you could put one on each end of the Ferris Wheel shaft, one for power (110v) and one for a signal. You could then put the controller/s on the shaft itself or for a cleaner look, put it/them under/in one of the cars. I pondered how you would drive such a wheel. You could wrap the wheel with a long bicycle chain and have a stationary motor at the ground level with a drive sprocket. There would probably be enough friction between the chain and the wheel that you wouldn't need to put a sprocket on the wheel which would be almost impossible anyway. You would need some guides to keep the chain in alignment and a spring loaded idler to keep tension on the chain. Just some thoughts to ponder, Larry.....
  • Create New...