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rickharp

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About rickharp

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  1. Well, I kept at it, and guessed that it was the pixel set prior to where the pixels stayed lit, so I cut the last good one out, and replaced it with one from another bad CCR, and it worked. in summary, try replacing the last good pixel set instead of thinking it was the first, last or some pixel in the bad section. I am happy now. Thanks.
  2. Well, I kept at it, and guessed that it was the pixel set prior to where the pixels stayed lit, so I cut the last good one out, and replaced it with one from another bad CCR, and it worked. in summary, try replacing the last good pixel set instead of thinking it was the first, last or some pixel in the bad section. I am happy now. Thanks.
  3. I have the same problem. half of my strip is always white and on. In my attempt to splice / replace the 2nd half the strand with a replacement, I got the same result (latter part always on) as before I started. So I am puzzled if the error signal or short is in the original or first half of the ribbon, which btw, works fine. The solder is clean with no stray shorts that I can see. I tickle each IC and cut connectors, and cannot get it to show any signs of flicker. Where would or could the "always on" be coming from, an IC, or cut joint, a solder joint, something far or near the issue?? Is there a thread that deals with this more frequently that I should be following. Thanks and sorry to bug you with this. It's not the end of the world if one of my 4 loops are not working. Also, is there a way to test this strand or controller in the hardware utility user interface screen. I only see where I can turn on the first 16 pixels. how can i turn the whole strand on, or on with color changes for testing.
  4. I have the same problem. half of my strip is always white and on. In my attempt to splice / replace the 2nd half the strand with a replacement, I got the same result (latter part always on) as before I started. So I am puzzled if the error signal or short is in the original or first half of the ribbon, which btw, works fine. The solder is clean with no stray shorts that I can see. I tickle each IC and cut connectors, and cannot get it to show any signs of flicker. Where would or could the "always on" be coming from, an IC, or cut joint, a solder joint, something far or near the issue?? Is there a thread that deals with this more frequently that I should be following. Thanks and sorry to bug you with this. It's not the end of the world if one of my 4 loops are not working. Also, is there a way to test this strand or controller in the hardware utility user interface screen. I only see where I can turn on the first 16 pixels. how can i turn the whole strand on, or on with color changes for testing.
  5. Thanks. from your reply, it sounds like it has been done before. I mean that the whole 16 pin IC goes out. ?? Appreciate the reply at this busy time.
  6. My CCr Ribbon is the original and I've found from the beginning that it was super fragile, and even being careful, would require I razor cut the sheathing and re-solder the 16 pin IC. it has proven successful in about 6 cuts or repairs. Tonight though I feel one of the 16 bit IC's in the 4.5 inch section is toast, and my next work around is to "jump" the section. can I run 4 leader wires from the copper section breaks to the next section break, jumping that section. Everything I try to the 16 pin IC provides no feedback. the section is half way through a two loop section so I am ok with loosing that section. just curious if others have had success or similar experiences before I go through the trouble. Thanks, Rick in FL
  7. rickharp

    CCR REPAIR...HELP!!

    yes, i Have two sets of the original 2009 CCR's and the last 3 feet of one strand is constantly on blue, with some minimal flickering in a few of those sections. I am convinced and have had some luck last year with taking a razor blade and cutting the silicone shielding and then a sharp soldering gun and carefully resoldering the 16 leads coming off the integrated circuit for the first series of the constant on lights. then i use a very high end silicone to seal up the trap door flap i created with the razor. I agree with other posts that they are very fragile, and if we have to go through this soldering every year, it may become frustrating. I can only imagine that Dan is having to deal with many complaints and replacements. who would of figured, ey?? Oh well. It was a new concept and us early adoptors were somewhat maybe ok with these potential new product issues. I am hopeful that they figured out the loos soldering last year and made the manufacturing tweaks to the next version. I'll keep cutting, soldering and resealing for now.
  8. rickharp

    Can I hack my one and only dmx strobe?

    ok, now I've figured out my workaround, and I feel the relay is not the trick. The strobe needs 45 seconds to warm or charge up. and that was my issue, it took several very long lor cycles to finally charge it up, and the cycle was to long to look like lightning. the procedure will be, once the show is running, plug the strobe into a hot socket to charge it, then move it over to the lor sequence. as long as there is lightning every 5-8 seconds it will basically flash on que. I'll try it soon and reply if that works. thanks for your help.
  9. rickharp

    Can I hack my one and only dmx strobe?

    Now I have another hunch. When I operate the strobe by plugging into a wall and pulling it, except for the first time, i gennerally get it t flash about 1 second after the plug in, and its consistent. my thoughts are that if I demo it again with an LOR, simulating the same plug in cycle time as above, it won't fire at the consistent 1 second timing, because something from the LOR is different than straight from the plug. So, my thinking is, if I use the lor to power a relay, I could effectively send it straight through power, which may be cleaner or more powerful than what the LOR can provide it. I'll try that tonight, but I think that will give me a consistent start up period from energize, that I can build in to the timing. If you recall in the above threads, using the LOR to enegize the strobe sometimes lit the strobe and sometimes did not, even giving it a lot of time before the lightning. It would either flash to many times (to long) or not flash at all. Kev, do you like the idea of using a relay? Thanks
  10. rickharp

    Can I hack my one and only dmx strobe?

    -klb- wrote: Gosh Kev, you really know your stuff! You are right, this less expensive strobe only has two channels, and they only operate the flash rate and the intensity. So,,,, how should i proceed, if at all, to have better Que control of the strobe for lightning, with an lor channel. The hack seems like a good idea, but the components seem cheap and tightly packed.
  11. rickharp

    Can I hack my one and only dmx strobe?

    Perhaps I should consider the lor IDMX for $249. If I could justify some other periferals, for Christmas, then the costs may not hurt so bad. Here is a closeup of that side of the board. Still like the idea, but not if it's dangerous or hard to get to the leads. Thanks Attached files
  12. rickharp

    Can I hack my one and only dmx strobe?

    Here is a picture of the strobe's insides. My instinct now is to put the relay on the leads that go to the bulb. but all that stored up power will not be going anywhere and may arc over the contact in the relay. The relay I intend to use is a very heavy one, if I recall, it is a 20 amp, 240v relay on the output side. Anyone have a better idea. My ambition is to have the strobe come on, on que. Right now it needs a few seconds to warm up, charge the caps, but it is very inconsistent. I can't get my lor to have the right amount of time to simulate lightning. I am trying to prevent a dmx1000 purchase for $250. Thanks Attached files
  13. rickharp

    Can I hack my one and only dmx strobe?

    I am fine wiht that, and was thinking the same thing. I'll post a picture of the board here soon. Thanks. No Slave IN.
  14. For Halloween this year, I added a 750w Mega strobe similar to Amer DJ, which has the dip swithches and the DMX in and out. I am a DMX dummy, I understand it could be a dumb question but thought I would throw it out, which I already think is imposible from reading the other threads. I do NOT own a IDMX but understand it will provide me what I need. In the spirit of saving some money I'll carefully proceed... since I only have a strobe to sync to lightning, I was wondering if I could control it some other way. Here is what is happening. I have the strobe plugged into a 16 channel LOR controller, and turn the channel on for about a second or two. What I think is happening, is that the strobe needs to warm up or store energy in the caps so when it gets energized it does not always flash cause the cap drained, and most of the time, does not come on at all. I guees 1.5 seconds is not enough to charge the caps. So, one instinct I had was to "hack" somehow the strobe to initiate a signal similar to what a IDMX would do. Is there a way to short one of the dmx leads to initiate the strobe, obviously using a relay. There is a ground, date- and a date+. A $10 relay, if it works, would save me $295 for the idmx. Thanks in advance.
  15. rickharp

    LOR blue board triac or ??? issue

    Great, thanks Dan. The flare on the picture is from the camera flash. Removing one lead from the resistor, provided the same dim results than when it was attached. i'll replace the triac. thanks for your help. i'll let you know if that works.
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