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Everything posted by -klb-

  1. Unicast is probably one of the keys to making wireless work. Many wireless protocol stacks filter out multicast from what I understand. The AC access points should do everything that N will. If all the features are implemented, they even provide benefit for all existing clients, in the form of beam steering. My wife bought an apple AirPort Extreme with AC, and everything WIFI works better now. The beam steering allows it both to actively listen in the direction of a known client, while ignoring same frequency signal from a different direction, and also focus its transmitting energy at the client. Cell tower technology brought to the consumer is cool.
  2. Even with standard wiring, plugging a LOR controller to an Ethernet port can kill the Ethernet port.
  3. Electricity doesn't know colors, but signal propagation does behave differently if you split pairs. For 100M Ethernet it doesn't matter if pin 1 and 2 use the brown pair, the green pair, the orange pair, or the blue pair, but for any distance and reliability, the must be a pair. Same with 3 and 6, they must be a pair. I worked with a really bright guy who figured it didn't matter, wires up a bunch with 1,2 as a pair, 3,4 as a pair, 5,6 as a pair, and 7,8 as a pair. He comes to me wanting to know what is wrong with our $15,000 cable tester that it keeps failing these cables. I asked him if he got any of them longer than 10 feet to actually work. He had not. Told him that the cable tester is doing its job. Without 3,6 being a pair, it is both radiating out too much energy, and absorbing too much interference. Told him to wire up a few with brown on 3,6 and blue on 1,2, and that they would pass the cable tester, and actually work, and confirm that color doesn't matter, but pairs do.
  4. Should be able to download/install the correct version.
  5. At home, I run a cable out the back wall of our room over the garage, through the tiny attic, and into the garage. Then during the season, the cable just runs out the door, and around to the front of the house. No need to worry about cable run lengths for most houses if you are using one of the USB adapters.
  6. I don't have photos, especially as the outside is so well buried behind a shrub that I can barely get eyes on it. But at the fire house, we have a 6 inch square box surface mounted on the outside, glued to a 1.5 inch conduit through the brick and block. On the inside, one of the 6x6 metal access plates that opens with a quarter turn of a screwdriver. The outside box is deep enough that as long as we have drip loops on all the cables, we have not had any water intrusion even though all we do is take the lid off.
  7. The sound pipe example does continue to work. An open pipe end does reflect air waves, or else a flute would not play a note. If you put a suitable muffler on the end of a flute, or our sound pipe, you would no longer get the reflection off the end. The flute would not play, and someone listening just before the end of the pipe would hear a cleaner signal. It certainly can't hurt to try a terminator if you are having lost command issues. We have a couple of experienced users who have cleared up their issues. But we have also had several who reported only partial improvement with a terminator, and tracking down a connection fault actually fixed it. And quite a number who have found bad jacks, or bad from the factory cables. Also, default LOR is 56Kbps, super speed is 500kbps. So quite a difference, but still roughly three orders of magnitude slower than the 350mhz that most cat 5 and higher cable is actually tested to. Gigabit copper actually only runs 250Mbps per pair, and uses all 4 pairs. It allows for both ends to talk on all pairs at the same time, and still sort out what the far end is saying, opposed to what is cable reflections of itself talking. But yes, the 10 fold increase does make all reflections, even from just the connectors that much more significant.
  8. E1.31 usually (nearly always for our purposes) runs on Ethernet, so Ethernet switches are appropriate and correct. LOR signaling is RS 485, which optimally runs on more expensive cable with no defined connector or pin out, except that the two data pins shall be on a twisted pair if available. But 100 ohm twisted pair is a decent approximation of the ideal cable for rs485. Cat5 cables are 100 ohm twisted pair, and are readily available, and reasonably cheap. The standard does allow for short stubs off the daisy chain. For example, many devices have the in and out directly connected, and a few inches of wire running to the electronics. Even LOR has the two jacks directly connected, and about a 1 inch of circuit trace to get to the chip. But, imagine that the daisy chain is a long piece of 2 inch pipe. You can talk in one end and easily be heard at the other. You can add a few short stubs to the side, and still be ok. But as those stubs get longer, you start to loose ability to understand at the far end. Each stub now has it's own resonance, and is adding both a reflection and a resonance back into the main pipe, and the side stubs get longer, the delays in the reflections get longer, and more out of phase, making the real signal in the pipe more unintelligible. The electrical signal acts much like the speaking pipe example. Sometimes it can work, but as the branches get longer, the odds go against it. And LOR is fully within their rights to not provide any assistance troubleshooting if a branched network stops working mid season.
  9. It is not simply a copper splitter, it has active electronics to duplicate the signal to a new separate network.
  10. Is control lights checked? If you worked without the USB-485 adapter plugged in, it will uncheck and stay that way. If that doesn't do it, have you checked things by trying to control them by the hardware utility?
  11. LOR tested typical configurations with and without termination, and found that at 56k, with the chips they are using, most of the time termination made no difference, but incorrectly applied termination hurt performance. Occasionally adding termination helps, but usually people looking to try it actually have a bad cable, or bad jack actually causing their problem.
  12. Make a new freeform grid, and duplicate the timings to the new grid. Then adjust them.
  13. You need to be sure you have enough power to the strings. You may need to inject power to the strings separately in addition to what the board will supply. The current firmware allows more than one universe per cluster.
  14. Half power on a 1,000 watt load does not put 500 watts into the heat sinks. The LOR heat sinks are not rated anywhere close to dissipating 1800 watts that a dual inlet controller would have to at 50% under your assertion. Do you really think they could handle the output of a portable space heater into those sinks, not having as much area, not the fans? Your statement is closer to true for an analog dimmer using transistors, but I don't think I have ever seen that design, only phase angle, where the switching losses are much smaller.
  15. Most of us (myself included) are good with 300 foot limits before we have to plug in a cheap switch to use as a repeater, and it probably works well as part of our layout anyway. I can't even remember who had an issue with the 300 foot limit, or why.
  16. You have a network defined for which a dongle does not exist. For example, the regular network may be configured as com3, but no USB-485 is plugged in as com3. Also possible that if no USB dongle has been plugged in, and drivers correctly installed, one required file may not be installed.
  17. I would generally agree, but I'm curious how the fencer is generating signal that looks like commands to 3 specific channels. Of course that applies to most of the ideas being chased as well.
  18. For contrast, I'm pretty sure I have had over 1,000 feet in a run before, where the burried conduit (in the same trench as power) travels a couple hundred feet to go 30 feet at the surface. Repeat a few times, and hook up 40 controllers in just that network, and you have quite a bit of total run. Add in that there are 3 separate utility feeds, and most of the display is in a field that sets off non contact voltage probe constantly (135KV & 345KV transmission lines overhead) and I should be a prime example of bad com behavior. But in fact, I have only experienced 3 issues. One was a bad com chip killing all communication on the network. One was a RJ45 jack so damaged that I don't know how I failed to notice when plugging it in, aside from the Buford holly attacking me as I reached over to plug things in. And the last one is a RJ45 where the cable simply got pulled too tight. This one was pretty much in the middle of the chain, and was causing missed commands on pretty much all the controllers in the chain. Other isolation tests to consider. Can it be replicated when driving the display from the truck? If so, does it still happen if you disconnect the cable towards the house? Does swapping which port it is plugged into matter? What about swapping loads with other channels? Does the issue follow the channel, or the load?
  19. Depending on how good your neutral and ground are, it could still be AC through neutral. Have you tried running the fencer off a battery and inverter, or generator to further isolate? Also, this looks like a good place to use a USB-485ISO to electrically separate the PC and the controller data ground. Does your cat 5 stub to the road cross the fence at 90 degrees? Are you coiling it up and hanging it on the fence when you aren't using it? Have you tried just unplugging this stub to see if it clears things up? Does the run from the house run near the fence, or is it well separated?
  20. I have some 24 port fast Ethernet switches with 2 GBIC slots that I paid less than half what a 5 port fast Ethernet switch runs. So it would be easy to add the GBICs for a lot less total than the media converters. Though, I would be torn between the weatherproofing and space requirements or the managed switch and extra features of the older switch, or the smaller install of the media converters.
  21. 4&5 must be a pair. 3&6 make the most sense to keep as a pair. I agree that I would keep the audio separated. Keeping audio clean over distance using unbalanced audio can be challenging.
  22. The gen 3 has a phantom load built into each channel tha can help the channel fade correctly if more than a few strings are connected. With a gen 2, you may need to add a phantom load yourself. Search the forum for snubber. The gen 2 controllers do not support dimming curves. If you are using the LED dimming curve, the second gen is unable to match it. Also to identify, the gen2 has the status light to the right of the cat 5 jacks. Gen 3 has the status light to the left. Gen 2 is all pin through hole components. Gen3 is mostly surface mount components.
  23. You could get some used, end of life rack mount Cisco switches with GBIC slots. Then install gbics and connect with fiber.
  24. A good device, but it won't feed 8 universes to an E1.31 device being discussed here.
  25. Have you checked that hot and neutral to the controller are not reversed? Just the current that is allowed to leak without tripping a GFCI can light up a LED string pretty bright. If that is not it, and you do have a tiny leak through the controller, nothing says for sure that it is the triac, and not contamination on the board. If adding some resistive load helps, I would recommend building a set of phantom load plugs and using them as needed. We have several hundred, as we have 80 channels that simply won't dim correctly without them, another 80 that usually won't dim when wet without them, and other intermittent issues, that usually go away with adding a half watt of resistive load.
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