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-klb-

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About -klb-

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  • Location
    The Colony TX
  • Occupation
    Information Technology

More About Me

  • Interests
    Electronics, Welding, Software development, Boating..
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    Back in 2006, but I don't remember exactly how. Probably web search on animated light displays.
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    One that sets itself up

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    3.10.14
  • License Level
    Advanced
  1. Not sure that it ever was posted in here, but my understanding is that these are designed to be water resistant when mounted as a pass through in a case. The pigtail is not waterproof to the body. The heat shrink happily allows moisture between the cat5 and itself, allowing the body to fill. But if that heat shrink is inside the case that the body of the unit is passing through, all is well.
  2. If you are plugging directly together, even though more and more hardware is auto crossover capable, you may need to be sure you are using a crossover cable.
  3. If it was left and right, how would a double pole breaker supply 220v line to line instead of 0 volts?
  4. Open neutral to the panel may hide behind nearly balanced loads on the two legs. Out of typical loads may push the floating neutral further away from ground and make it more visible. If it isn't an open/loose neutral, or UPS battery, the other option is that you may have more of your controllers on the same leg as the UPS this year than last.
  5. It would seem to me that from a 3 phase perspective, your legs are A-B, B-C and C-A. It is somewhat arbitrary which one of these has the center tap and tie to neutral/ground, though there probably is a standard convention from a labeling perspective. But if A-B is the one center tapped, you are using A-n-B for your lighting. You are not using B-C or C-A. You are basically using just a single 240v split phase which is basically residential power. Your pannel has the ability to wire single phase 240 loads on those two legs, but it generally is only used for 3 phase loads. B-C can correctly power 240v loads, as can C-A, but C-n is not really a valid combination to draw power on.
  6. Delta is not that common in new construction. But note that you are only using 1 leg of the delta. And your two inlets are going to be 0 or 180 degrees as long as you are using the same leg that your ground bonded center tap is in.
  7. Exact same cable, used/works for two totally different purposes.
  8. Unless it changed with gen 3 hardware, only the DIO32 product supports multiple zero crossing detection. Both the 1602 and PC controllers presume both inputs (when configured) are in phase, or 180 out. As long as both inlets are on the same leg of a 3 phase service, they work fine. If one inlet is plus 120 degrees, or minus 120 degrees, channels 1-8 will have major dimming curve issues.
  9. Not so much about the input pup as it is about the software. I believe I am using my show interrupting triggers in jukebox mode. When the triggered sequence is done, the show goes forward with the next sequence in the show.
  10. None of the methods will impact any of your existing channels or sequences. You could run the LOR controllers in DMX mode, and only need an adapter cable for pinout from your second controller to your fogger. But this has the most impact to your channel configuration. Adding a second USB485, or dedicated dongle like a entec pro is lower risk, as there are zero changes to your existing sequence/config you just add the USB universe on the com port it comes up as, and set up your new channel ad a dmx device on the new universe.
  11. The input pup on a LOR network, with a PC can trigger any PC based show, which includes DMX ability on other networks.
  12. Pretty much any momentary switch. Normally open is the default it is configured for.
  13. If you find that the ELL is not powering up, and you don't have any additional USB ports that do supply enough power, you may need to move to a powered hub, which should solve the problem.
  14. There may be some limitation in the hardware utility for how many ELLs it will recognize at once. But it probably doesn't matter. The sequence editor and show player don't recognize them at all. They are transparent for all purposes except configuring them. You do need to pick which ones will be on each of your 4 networks, and assign a frequency/channel for each of the networks, and put the same channel on all ELLs to be on the same network. Then set up a controller after the ELL on the 3rd and 4th networks. I'm expecting that the HWU will still be able to control the lights, even though the HWU does not see the ELL.
  15. Are you moving the same ell that was already identified to the other ports, or is it always the same ones being set up on 3rd and 4th network? Have you tried those on the lower ports? Is it possible that they were reconfigured for slow speed instead of normal?
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