Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums

Stephen Blue

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Stephen Blue

  1. I know I'm one of the few still using 2.9.4, but is there a way to extend the status log? It only saves a small number of activities... I would love to be able to see how many times my interactive tree is triggered in a night, but the log is not anywhere near long enough to handle 15 minutes of activity, let alone a night. 

    And, if you can't do it in 2.9.4, is it longer in more current versions of LOR?

  2. What the heck are they? Icicles? 300ct in a 19' strand is like 3/4" spacing! (In any case... price + shipping comes to like $2.50 per 100, which is the same WalMart gets for incan strings full retail. Just some friendly guidance - I'd suggest Craigslist or some other local marketplace because shipping costs are going to make it not make any sense to buy incans online)

  3. I didn't want plugs on my arches, so I just spliced SPT in between the beginning of the light strings and the plug, and ran the SPT down the arch under the lights (so, obviously, start at the end and work your way back - emphasis on obviously - because I know someone very well who got 2 sections in before realizing he was going in the wrong order! haha).

    I keep my controllers within a couple feel of the arches, but with as light a load as that is, 20-40 feet will be no problem - You're likely good beyond 100' if you really wanted with that light a load. 

  4. I saw a post over on Facebook LOR Users of another display with lights. The comments identified the lights as "Clay Paky Sharpys and Martin Mac IIIs " - I googled prices, holy cow, that's a "need to win the lottery" investment for me. 

    Post link: 



    Pic link:




    • Like 1

  5. I had an unusual one this year too. One of my channels turns on for about 2 minutes like a blown triac, then turns back off ofr about 2 minutes (show running or not, doesn't matter.) Used to blown triacs (had 3 of my ~200 go bad this year, that seems about average), never seen one act like this before. 


    Not really an answer, but apparently, it happens. 

  6. You're describing issues I had in my display which was a bad network port on a CTB16PC controller last year. Whenever a certain controller was plugged into the network, everything would slowly degrade - channels running on the wrong box, channels flickering quickly, channels missing commands entirely. I burned up a DIO8RLY channel when it went into a flicker while troubleshooting. Once the offending controller was removed, everything operated normally.


    Start eliminating controllers from the end of your daisy chain. Process of elimination, if you're having the same issues I was, you'll find the offender. 

  7. 20' Tall, walk-in, controllable tree. At one point it logged 135 triggers in a 25 minute period. Kids are LOVING pushing the buttons and making the tree change color, spin, and strobe. Plus, they're INSIDE a 20' mega tree. By far the biggest hit of the year. Works using an LOR InputPup and a pair of 16-channel controllers. 




    • Like 2

  8.  I had read if you use LEDs you can't do a fade in or out as an LED is either on or off.  


    Also, the "big box" store LED lights are generally what are called "half wave" - they are generally thought of as not well suited for using with LOR. "Full wave" lights from vendors found on this and other sites are considered far superior, while admittedly a bit more expensive. From my experience, the full waves from the vendors here tend to be a bit better in quality than big box store lights as well - though that being said, I have thousands of warm white half waves from Sams Club that I'm very happy with in my static areas, and I make significant use of Big Lots LED C6's I've gotten on sale after Christmas as well.

  9. No, you're not crazy at all. I run a "hybrid" display, both in terms of only part of my display being animated with LOR and the rest being static, and also in that roughly half of my lights are LED, while the remainder are incandescent. 


    I personally LOVE the look of incan lights. The warm glow feel they have, and their relatively inexpensive acquisition cost, are wonderful. They are a power capacity drain for certain - one of my first conversions was virtually every clear incan strand I had was converted to warm white LED because you really can't tell the difference between them. My animated show section is virtually all LED because of how brilliant they are and how little power they draw. But a significant chunk of my static side is still incan, and will remain incan for the forseeable future because I love the look of incan.


    Of course, to each his own. If you want to transition to LED as time goes on, do it! It's not a wrong decision, just as staying incan is not a wrong decision either. There are just trade offs (mostly involving power draw, bulb fading, and cost) that you have to take into account, and make a decision for yourself. 

  10. Your questions about channels and sequencing and such are all being answered very well here in this thread, but may I address one of your other issues: Power distribution. Going all out does by no means require a degree in electrical engineering, but it does require knowledge of some simple math and documentation.


    Your outlets that you plug into are on connected to breakers. Depending on your house, your breakers have a maximum capacity of either 15 amps or 20 amps (I'll get to what those numbers mean in terms of lights in a moment). First and foremost, you need to determine what outlets are on which breakers. Do all of your outdoor outlets connect to the same breaker? Hopefully not, because then you're limited to the capacity of that one breaker. Hopefully you have access to outlets that are connected to a few different breakers, so you can distribute the lights between them.


    This is why documentation is important: I have a rather large setup, and I distribute lights across 14 different breakers (This is atypical of a conventional home, of course. I have some custom electrical wiring done for the display). I have a spreadsheet that I enter every tree, every bush, every character, etc. into as I plug them in, and what breaker they are plugged into. The spreadsheet uses some simple math to tell me when I've gotten past my safe load level on each breaker. Now, I run over 100,000 lights and distribute across 14 breakers - I need my fancy spreadsheet to keep track of it all. You can get away with a pad of paper with 2 or 3 breakers - no need for the fanciness I have.


    How do I know how many lights I can put on a breaker? It depends on the type of light! Full power incandescent minis draw 0.33 amps per set of 100 lights. The "energy saving" incan minis you often find draw 0.2 amps per set of 100. LED's draw considerably less - I use a broad calculation on my mini LED's that sets their power usage at 0.06 amps per 100 lights. 


    Need to account for inflatables and larger lights? 120 watts equals 1 amp, so a 100 watt flood light is going to draw 0.83 amps (Divide whatever wattage you have by 120, and there's your amps). Most inflatable motors are going to have a wattage on them, or perhaps even tell you their amps, so you can make this calculation easily.


    Add the amp pull all of the things you have into an outlet, and boom, you know how much room you have to spare (or are over).


    Documentation, documentation!


    An example, to make it a little easier. Let's say you have 3x 20amp breakers available. We'll call them Breaker 1, Breaker 2, and Breaker 3. (This is the same spreadsheet I use for my setup... just with more breakers.)




    As you can see, I have all of my elements listed, including the number of lights they are, and what type. I put how many amps they draw, and calculate each breakers load.


    If I had those floodlights plugged in to another breaker, it would overload the 20amp breaker, so I know they have to be on breaker 2. If, for whatever reason, I needed them on breaker 1, I'd need to move something off of breaker 1 (probably the roofline) to breaker 2, to make room for the flood lights on breaker 1.


    I hope this helps your power distribution problems! 

  11. I use 5 of them - 4x 10' and 1x ~18' (inside my 20' tree). 8 channels and 16 channels, respectively. They're just 1.5" PVC wrapped with a 100 light strand of white lights wrapped around each section. Turn them on and off in order, and boom. I splice in an extension to the lead on each one so all the cords come out of the bottom. 


    You can see them in action here: http://deltavillelights.com/videos.html

  • Create New...