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Everything posted by BadSCR

  1. I use a "Dry-Erase Marker" on my CRT Monitor (Do not use on LCD or plasma!!), helps with the sequencing. Backup the files. I didn't, then in just 15minutes I messed-up every sequence I had done. How?, I thought that a 30% background intensity would look good (nop too bright), and couldn't undo it or lower it. Had, I had a backup file, it would have saved me a week of work. I did the two weeks ago.
  2. I have just discovered PIC microcontrollers and loving it. I would love to know the LOR protocol, for some of my little projects. The next LOR board that I buy, I am going to reverse engineer it, So that I have a schematic for it. One of the little projects i would like to do is Build a little "One-Channel wireless LOR board" (~$20 each board). You could use a Serial Port Monitor/Sniffer And reverse engineer it. (If I could find a good Serial Sniffer that is free I would) I too would like something sanctioned by LOR.
  3. Here is something for the DIYer. I don't have the money but one of yall may. 9.84" Long x 0.39" diameter , 1500watt Xenon strobe tube , http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16469 1000VDC and 4KV for trigger, 5.6"L x .36" Dia , powerful Xenon strobe http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16669
  4. I do need a 2ch O'scope, just can't seem to find the money to drop onto a good one. I have no specifications on the strobes, other-then is says 12Vdc on the bottom. "I wonder if some of this voltage you are seeing is in part is the CEMF from the transformer" Thanking the same thing. ps: I love your Icon pic under your name, Very Cool.
  5. The reading are physical. (I use another DVM thinking that the first was wrong) The strobe makes a high pitch noise some other readings: The transistor has 1.48Volts drop from C to E The transformer has 1.63Volt drop on the primary side
  6. Ok, Lets recap. Original Strobe: Vs-----> R1 ----> Strobe -----> Ground Running on 7.5Vdc and pulling 375mA The 20-ohm 1-watt resistor has 7.49Vdc drop (7.49Vdc*375mA=2.81Watts) Modified Strobe: Vs-----> R1 ----> R2 ----> Strobe -----> Ground Added a 16-ohm 5-watt resistor in series with the 20-ohm resistor. Running on 7.5Vdc and pulling 208mA The (R1) 20-ohm 1-watt resistor has 4.16Vdc drop (4.16Vdc*208mA=0.865Watts) The (R2)16-ohm 5-watt resistor has 3.33Vdc drop (3.33Vdc*208mA=0.693Watts) R1+R2=Vs 4.16Vdc+3.33Vdc=7.49Vdc kirtchovs law I added a resistor and it fixed the over heating problem with the 20-ohm resistor. I don't fully understand this strobe, There is some kinda feedback loop. The pic is the Original Strobe schematic. Attached files
  7. deblen wrote: The best thing to do would be to use a 240V > 110V step down transformers. My strobes a very rare, mainly mine are defects.
  8. Max-Paul I see what you are talking about, the voltages you give are right, With the two resistors they devide the voltage between them, if there was just one resistor there would be a Full 7.5Volts across it. With capacitors: Have to use supper position, have to replace the capacitor with a Short, inorder to do the Calculations. deblen Strobe are 240Volt strobes anyhow. (basic strobe Power supply, capacitor, Triger-Coil, Xeon tube) The easy way to convert 110Volt strobes to 220Volt strobes is to Bypass the voltage dobbling part of the circuit, But keep a Diode going to the main capacitor.
  9. Ok, because of the new resistor it lowers the amps 7.5volts at 208mA that would be about 0.87watt on the 20-ohm and 0.7watts on the 16-ohm resistor. I was thinking of rectifying 120Vac and use a capacitor to give me a Large 170Vdc power supply. I may just brake down and buy a real power resistor. Then string like 20 strobe in series. They are 7.0 volts dc The minimum fireing voltage is 6.48 volts dc (tested) The max is about 8.25 volts dc without exciding the capacitor's voltage rating of 330V (tested) Attached files
  10. Max-Paul wrote: Yes, the wattage does not change the working voltage. The resistor was over heating and blowing. It was a 20-ohm 1-watt resistor 7vdc at 350mA = 2.4Watts (So it needs a 3 watt resistor at 20-ohms) So I added a 16-ohm 5-watt resistor in series with the original thus dividing the power dissipation between them. What I am thinking will work for fixing the voltage: is to use a 7.5Volt Zener Diode to clamp the Voltage across the strobe, then string about 12 strobes in series and use a 25 watt light bulb as a current limiter to drop the extra voltage.
  11. They are strobes from Advance-auto, Found them being trashed, I asked him he said due to defects. They are 7 volts at 370 mA each (shuld be 12 volts. wont work on 6 volts or 9 volts) The power resetor is the worng wattage (fixed it by increasing the charge time) I think they are nock-offs, anyways I got 300 of them.
  12. I am not worried about a plane crashing into my house. What I am worried about is epilepsy, that is the biggest thing. Hey, I think I solved my power problem at a cost of 13 cents per strobe.
  13. I hope it will look amazing, I have modified about 30 and plan on doing them all. Am trying for a random pattern. How to mount, hang, and get power to them all (with a very small budget of $150). IF I can solve the power problems, I could do around 3000+. (Got to love recalls )
  14. For my 2009 display I am going to be using about 250 strobes, That will randomly flash when activated by the LOR. (IF, I can Find a power supply to power them all) (If I can find a big Power supply, my 2009 or 2010 display will have about 1,000 strobes) They will flash randomly, Or they may start at the same time but over time will get more and more out of sync with each-other. It is posable to modify them to flash with a Master Strobe. (IE in sync all at once). And it could be done without OptoIsolators and transformers All that would be needed is like one TRIAC and some wire (Rated for 300+Volts)
  15. Alan C wrote: I would put a resistor at the end to terminate the alarm loop. This way a voltage comparator could detect cuts, shorts, unplug-ings, and other tamperings.
  16. No no no, this idea of mine here wan't work. The TRIACs in the LOR will Isolate everthing hooked to it, unless one hooks 16 mini-switchs to bypass each LOR. This idea here will not work. Everything in the display has a resistance so. By turning off the brackers and useing a relay for every braker to engage the custom alarm sensor. one could have an alarm on everthing that is electrical in the display; cords, lights, LOR, ... (note: I believe 6~12VDC will not bother the LORs and the other stuff) We could use the resistance of the display and setup a Voltage devider. Then using an Op-amp could amplify the change in voltage (resistance) and then use another two Op-amps to compare a the display voltage and when it gets too out of tolerance, the Op-amps could drive a Transistor that would control an latching relay to sound an alarm.
  17. taybrynn wrote: I have to agree, most people don't have a clue as-to what the componets are. I did not at first, I went online googleing for computer controlled lights, thinking that a 16Ch system would cost me about $600~$1000. Something with 18+ wires running to it has to be expensive and possibly dangerous. I do worry about my extension cords being stolen, It would probably more likely that the extension cords would be stolen than the LORs. I mean extension cords (Coper) VS a box that most people have no clue about.
  18. Maybe add a serial number onto the LOR board with an invisible ink (UV or IR) "invisible permanent ink" http://www.blacklightworld.com/security_kit.htm http://www.itestcash.com/uv-marker-and-uv-light.html?utm_source=Froogle&utm_medium=Froogle&utm_campaign=Froogle I think I may trust ordering from http://www.brickhousesecurity.com/jsm-idpeninvisableinkpen.html
  19. I have thought about putting a Tracking transmitter onto the LOR board. (the range would be like 500 feet and you would use a FM radio http://www.jbgizmo.com/page22.html ) The RFID is more for Proof to the Cops that the LOR is yours. It is what one can get for there pets. Hey, one could go to the veterinarian and ask them for RFID tag but it is going into an electronic equipment. The RFID, They are vary short range (like 4 inches), What you would do is find the LOR and use a Laptop to pull the Info off of the RFID tags to prove that the LOR is yours to the Cops. (This is whay I want two RFID tags, one that is Read only and one that is Read/Write)
  20. seriously though. Will a pown-shop take a LOR? Because, a Pown-Shop is probably where the LOR would end-up. This is why I am thinking about imbeding two RFID tags into each LOR, And maybe add a serial number onto the LOR board with an invisible ink (UV or IR) To use a LOR, one needs software and a USB adaptor ($125) ---------------------------- I keep wanting to bring my LORs in-side when I get ready for bed. So, I say Do what you think will help you sleep better at night, thats what I did.
  21. LOL, One could use a safe for every LOR and cement it into the yard. ($275 per LOR) http://d3f8w3yx9w99q2.cloudfront.net/1642/fire-king-gary-laptop-safe/fire-king-gary-laptop-safe_0_0.jpg http://www.mercantila.com/p/fire-king-gary-laptop-safe?utm_source=Google_Base&utm_medium=Shopbots&utm_term=Gary+Laptop+Safe&utm_campaign=1608954
  22. I read on another fourm of a idea. this is what there idea was: Hide the LORs and place Fake simi-hidden Controllers that looks real. Then Have it where if one of the fake Controllers get stollen or vandalized it would Operate an Relay that would Kill all the power to the display and maybe some other basic lights.
  23. Here is what I did: (got a four IR camera system, four Lights, and UPS cost me about $900) 1: Four outdoor IR camera system with a DVR unit $650 (surveillance system) 4: cheap flood lights with motion sensors $25 each 1: UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) To power DVR, Cameras, and Lights $120 Note: Be Careful not to over light the area I want to add a basic Closed loop security system (I think it would only cost $70) (a latching relay, some switches, connectors, power supply, Alarm speaker, voltage comparator, and some missilaneous parts) Then I was thinking of imbeding two RFID tags into each LOR so I could track them down if needed. ($200) One RFID tag would be Read-Only and imbeded into a IC chip (camouflage) then soldered onto the LOR board The other RFID tag would be Read/Write and would be epoxied onto the LOR board It would only cost $7 per LOR and $150 for the Readers/writer http://www.trossenrobotics.com Read Only Tag http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store...poule-Tag.aspx Read/Write Tag http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store...mm-Button.aspx
  24. There are a few ways to do it. Optoisolated trigger and Transformer isolated trigger The TRIAC that He shows in the Schimatics; Is The TRIAC that is on your Strobe already. http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/strobotrigger.html http://www.electronics-project-design.com/images/TriacSymbol.gif I have Done the One with the Transformer and It worked. THIS IS VARY DANGERUS AND CAN BE DEADLY, I AM NOT RESPOSIBLE FOR WHAT MAY HAPPEN FROM WHAT I SAY. ALSO Please Note To discharge the Capacitors, 250Vdc Easy +Look at the parts inside the strobe And Find the TRIAC It will look like this http://media.digikey.com/photos/Teccor%20Photos/TO-92,ISOLATED.jpg or http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/Teccor/Web%20Photos/TO-220AB,NON-ISOLATED.jpg +On the TRIAC There are some Numbers and stuff Write it down and goto here http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/ +You will need to know which is the GATE, MT1, and MT2
  25. http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/strobotrigger.html I am using a transformer ($5) to trigger my strobes now and it works OK. Hey, I fiund a 1500-Watt strobe with a jack for synchronous operation with other units. It's called "Super Lightning Strobe" $200 http://www.starlight.com/strobe.html
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