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msbreton

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About msbreton

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    IT Engineer

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  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    Internet search
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Christmas
  1. Pump- how much water do you want to have in the air? what is the source? power available? nozzle size? How much money do you want to spend? Pump large enough to run 4-8 valves with streams 5'-10' in the air. I'm thinking I'd store the water source in a 35+ gallon trash can and recycle the water back to the can. Circular system Valves- on/off only? variable? pipe size/ material? how much money? Yes, on/off only. In the past, I got enough variability (for me) simply via how long the I had it on. Unsure of size and material. I'm open to suggestions. I have no idea as to cost. Up to $100 a valve? LoR product to control the Valves DC controller Is there only one? Can you provide product name/number? How to keep the pump from dead heading when all valves are closes? add a bypass valve that is open when the fountain is off and the pump is running Is that just another valve that I need to manually (program) it be open when all else are closed or is this something automatic? Thank you! -Mike
  2. Thanks. I checked out the thread but I'm still looking for some specific product suggestions. Anyone? Pump Valves LoR product to control the Valves How to keep the pump from dead heading when all valves are closes? Thanks! -Mike
  3. In 2008, I added 4 fountains to my display using simple magnetic motor fountain pumps connected to 4 channels and just turned them on/off (fully) as need. It was simple and worked pretty good but the pumps had plastic catches to prevent the motors from spinning the wrong direction and after turned them on and off thousands of times over 6 weeks, the pumps were cracked and destroyed from hitting those catches so many times. I’d like to bring back fountains for my 2011 show and I’m looking for the “right” way to do it. I assume I should use a single always-running pump to keep a line pressurized and then use fast low-volt values which I’d open and close via an IO controller. If that’s correct, can anyone provide some suggestions as to specifics (pump, values, controller)? If not, can anyone provide details as to how I should do it? Thanks!
  4. I wanted to update folks on my fountain experience this season as as as pose a question to LoR on their future fountain controller and pump line. Back in the summer of 08 when I started working on my fountain plans and heard about LoR's future release, I choose not to wait (good thing) and went with a std 16 channel controller. I knew I wouldn't be able to vary the speed of my pumps but after testing in the pool I decided that was ok. I used standard magnetic drive fountain pumps in hopes that I'd later be able to use them with LoR's future controller. All in all, they looked pretty good and ran for "about" 6 weeks nightly but I did have to do repairs and at the end of the season, the pumps had all (literally) destroyed themselves. Here's the issue. Magnetic drive pumps have a tendency to not always startup in the right direction. When the spin the wrong way, water flows in the reverse direction. The way the manufacture of the pumps I used prevents this is by including a small latch next to the impeller and when it spins the wrong way it catches and stops it. Not much of an issue when you use these for a fountain as you notice this right away and can unplug / plug it back in until it starts up correctly. Then you leave it that way, forever. But, when you have a controller, turning the pumps on/off hundreds, if not thousands of times a night, you end up hitting that catch a LOT. Eventually, my pumps it it so many times the case cracked on two of them. I removed the catch and repaired the case to get me though the season but during the last week two more pumps had their catch rip right though the entire case and end up loose in the water. Oh well, lesson learned. Anyway, my big question for LoR is how are you going to deal with this issue with the pumps you sell? One way would be to just not have a catch but regardless, a magnetic drive pump will not always start (say 50/50) in the right direction and that's going to impact the expected outcome. Next year I think I'll look into how I can have just one always running larger pump feeding quick response valves I can somehow control. Any suggestions? Thanks and Happy New Year!
  5. Thanks for the suggestion. Adding an additional load to the channel that is triggering the Definite Purpose Contractor solved the issue!!!!! Whew!
  6. I'm trying to trigger a Definite Purpose Contactor via one of my channels on a 16 unit controller. Turning the channel on, triggers the Definite Purpose Contactor correctly but when I turn off the channel, the Definite Purpose Contactor never turns off. I started to measure voltage on the LOR1602W unit and found it to not be 120v when on (it was about 88 volts) and to remain at ~16 volts when off. The fact that it is still putting out 16 volts when "off" is why the Definite Purpose Contactor is not powering down. I tested another LOR1602W and found it to do the same thing. Any ideas why the LOR1602W doesn't output 120v per channel when on 100% and why is doesn't output 0v when off? Unless I can resolve this, my plan to control my "snow" machine is in big trouble. Thanks!
  7. Looks like the larger unit from chauvetlighting.com is the way to go for "fake" snow. Thanks!
  8. That's crazy! I wasn't talking about "real" snow. The machines that make the fake flurries.
  9. I'm considering adding a snow machine this year. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  10. I’m converting two of my LOR1602W controllers to 20amps this year. That means I need 4 dedicated 20amp circuits to feed them. I’m working on plans to get a subpanel location near the controllers but I may not have a good means to get the wire permanently where I need it. If that doesn’t work, I may need to run extension cords from the closest location I can get the new 20amp outlets to the controllers. I know there have been a lot of posts on extension cords, gauge and lengths but it seems many of them are focusing on eventually feeding a 15amp destination. In my case, I’ll have 4 20amp destinations (the 2 controllers, 2 circuits each). What size extensions cords can I get away with at 20amps at say 50’ and maybe 100’? Any suggestions on best place to get them at lowest cost? Thanks!
  11. Thanks again John. Last question. I have a 16 chan unit on order specificly to drive some pumps (on / off). I've been testing one pump like this with several of my existing seqs for a while now and it seems to work well. BUT You new product sounds like a better way to go. Do you agree that it is a better way to control pumps or given the same pump type could I use a standard 16 chan unit to get the same results at maybe a higher cost due to the number of chans? The reason I'm asking is, if the new product is *the* way to go for pump control, I may want to cancel my order for the 16 chan and redirect those funds to the fountain controller. Thanks again for your responses!
  12. Thanks for the info. Will the fountain controler connect to an existing 16 channel box via CAT5? -Mike
  13. Is there any way we can get more details on the fountain controller early? How will it connect to the LoR network? Will it work with S2 now or will there need to be an S2 upgrade? Will pumps be sold at the same time from LoR or should we plan on using any magnetic pump? Sorry for all the questions but I'm in the middle of putting together plans to add a simple 4 pump water effect to my show this year and I'm very excited to see this. Just in time too as I was just about to order 3 more pumps. I'll hold off for now in hopes to hearing more soon. -Mike
  14. Whew! I was pretty worried there for a while as my local News 10 folks were going to come by this morning (got rained out). Not only am I glad to have the issues fixed, but I'm very happy to know "why" I was seeing what I was seeing. -Mike
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