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Cray Augsburg

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Cray Augsburg last won the day on June 28 2014

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About Cray Augsburg

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Louisville, KY
  • Occupation
    Surgical Assistant

More About Me

  • Interests
    Lighting and holiday displays, wood-working, gardening, camping, cooking, photography, and much more . . .
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    First display I saw (online): Richard Holdman's. Been bitten by the bug ever since . . .
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Christmas

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    3.6.0
  • License Level
    Advanced
  1. Have you scrolled through the Status window (available in the LOR Control Panel)? If there is a problem with loading or playing certain sequences, it may give you a clue as to where it's getting jammed.
  2. Cray Augsburg

    Fading issues

    Don't know if anyone has yet addressed this. At 23 Watts, it would seem the spotlight you were using might be a CFL (Compact Flourescent Lamp). If so, be aware that CFL bulbs are reported to cause interference with the proper operation of an LOR system. Thus, removing it from the setup would solve the problem.
  3. Just caught George's reference to Albany. As Emily Latella might say . . . " . . . never mind."
  4. Interesting . . . My intent was to invite the OP to provide more info so that perhaps someone could help him. And I tried to do it in a more welcoming manner than Max-Paul. Not trying to incite anything, but obviously stepped on some toes. (Still scratching my head there.) Sorry. Bottom line: I want the guy to come back with more specifics and questions, not feeling like he is going to get slammed if he does. I learn from reading the responses given by the more-experienced users, MP included. Back to winding the sleeves for my arches . . .
  5. Struax87: I'm not perfect either. And I'm sorry about the "welcome" you received. The way I see your original post, it sounds like you are simply trying to determine if there even IS a problem. When in use, the controllers will get a little warm. Unless they are uncomfortable to touch, I wouldn't worry too much about it. And I expect a little bit of the "new electronics" smell from any device like this when it is first operated. Keep an eye (finger, nose, whatever) on these two things, but I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep over them. Of more concern would be the "random light flicker" you are experiencing "between sequences." Flicker of lighting elements is NOT normal between sequences. This is where the extra info Max is asking for would be helpful. What software version are you using? What controllers do you have? Does it occur when playing a show, or only between sequences you are playing from the sequence editor? How many channels, and what have you got hooked up? Are you using any CFL bulbs? Again, I don't know that I have the experience to diagnose the problem. But I'd be willing to bet someone on this Forum does. Welcome to the LOR Forum and to LightORama. It's always good to have new people aboard.
  6. Scuba: A couple of things to consider: - A mixture of floods (for the output) and strobes (for faster portions of the lightning flash) might be more realistic for a lightning effect. - Instead of going solely for "brightness", use a couple of floods on different channels and aimed in an overlapping pattern. Flash them repeatedly in sequence. I think a good lightning effect has to do with the "randomness" of the flashes rather than how bright the burst is. Timing this appropriately with the lightning soundtrack enhances this effect. - If you really want a bright flash, maybe try a medium wattage (300W) Halogen fixture (or two) aimed toward the viewers. - Maybe drop a PM to EARL W. TALLEY (a member of this Forum) - he has some pretty good ideas 'bout lightning. - For flood bulbs, consider color. Lightning usually has a bluish tint rather than warm white. You might use a few blue floods.
  7. Cray Augsburg

    what to get

    Since I couldn't see how I would get all I wanted in 16 channels, I started 4 years ago with 32 channels and the Advanced-License software. This allowed several shrubs, C-9s on the eaves, 5 three-color mini trees, a good-sized three-color dogwood tree and a sleigh/one reindeer combo. Nothing special. Did all my own sequencing - WOW - 15 whole minutes of show. And it was great! It all depends on what you want to spend right now, and where you think you'll end up. Adding controllers is fairly easy, but may require tweaking older sequences a bit as you add more each year. If you haven't done so, download the software and use it in demo mode to get used to it. Canned "store-bought" sequences are a means many use to get started. Nothing wrong with 'em, I just prefer to "roll my own." A few thoughts: - If you're already thinking 16 channels might not be enough, then 16 channels aren't enough. - You'll never have enough channels for what you want to do. - You'll discover Xmas is a year-round proposition. - If you've never thought clearance sales were something you'd get excited about, prepare for a change. - Before someone else says it, you'll never have enough extension cords. Buy many, but learn to make your own with SPT1 or SPT2 wire and vampire plugs. Enjoy the craziness. And once you've started, remember the Forum is your bestest friend.
  8. Sorry, but I don't have any pictures of the fence posts in action. And taking some now isn't easy because I haven't yet opened the storage unit to dig through for this year. There's really not that much explaining . . . For the 4' trees, I drive a 4' U-channel fence post about 18" into the ground. Then place the trunk of the assembled unlit tree against the U-channel (the 2 and a half feet still above ground) and strap them together (very tightly) in 3 places (low, middle, high) using zip ties.Then I put the lights on the trees. Same thing for the 6' and 7' trees, except that I use a 6' T-bar fence post driven 18' to 24" into the ground. I was merely extending the concept to your need: drive a fence post, drill some holes in it and bolt your upright to it. Other options include using a sleeve in the ground, as suggested by tj above. This won't work at my house for the simple reason that my CFO so far absolutely refuses to allow me to do this. You simply need to decide what approach (or modification thereof) might work for you, your situation and your skill level. Most of what you find on the Forum is based on other users' specific experiences. We try something, and if it works, then GREAT! If it doesn't, we try something else -- just as you are now. The first year, I used 1/4" rebar for the mini trees, which worked great until the winter winds came. Turns out rebar doesn't have much "shear" strength when not packed tightly in something dense -- like concrete. I found myself daily going out and restraightening the trees. The fence posts have worked well for me since. Hope this helps, and keep at it.
  9. OK. Who knows what I was thinking that morning? It was early! Of course you are correct, MP. Tho, the bottom line is, I always remove the boots on premade cables anyway. Usually, I make my own cables, thus dispensing with the need to remove the boot. Thanks for the catch.
  10. Ummm, OK . . . Get yourself a T-bar type fence post (maybe a 6 footer) and a driver for same. These should be available at any home center that carries fencing. Drive the post a couple of feet in the ground. (You might be tempted to use a sledge to drive the posts, but you'll find that is a lot of work and usually includes smashed fingers and hands. The driver for these posts is a closed-end steel tube with handles. Slide it over the post, grab the handles and pound it down. The nice thing is that it's easy to drive them plumb this way. The drivers cost around $30.) The driven post acts as your "sleeve" or base or whatever. Then you can bolt your upright to that. If the display item is light enough, you could even use 3 or 4 strong zip ties. The upright could be wood, PVC, fence top rail, whatever. It's little work for a fairly stable system. In my display, I use 4-foot artificial trees for mini trees, and several taller artificials for other trees. I use the T-bar and U-channel fence posts and zip ties to hold them up. Works well. And the posts come back out of the ground with a little back-and-forth wiggling and some tugging. For the driver: http://www.homedepot...132&R=202024132 For a 6' U-channel post: http://www.homedepot...128&R=202024128
  11. You might also check out: http://HalloweenForum.com it's another great source for ideas and techniques.
  12. +2 on do NOT change your plan once you've started . . . Try to come up with a plan for your display. Lay it out. Check it out in the visualizer or animator. Double check that your plan is what you want. Then stick with the plan, no matter how many things you see in the next couple of months that you would like to add. This being said, we (I) understand there will be things you'd like to see done differently. But you don't have a lot of time between now and the start of December -- a lot less than you might think. Making even a small change drastically reduces the amount of time left for bringing your display to fruition. Keep a notebook. Write in it all the ideas you get. Things you'd like to change/add/remove. Hints and tips from the Forum, etc. But keep focused on YOUR current plan. After this year's display, take a few weeks off (you'll need it). Then pull out the notebook and get to work on those things. This is my fourth year with an LOR-driven display. I have totally redone my channel configuration twice, to allow more flexibility, make things easier to sequence, etc. But the reasons that drive this are things that I picked up from the experience I gained. Make things as simple as they can be, or you'll wish you did. Above all, this is YOUR SHOW -- your chance to entertain, so have fun. And welcome to the insanity. BTW: I'd spend a lot of time in the animator/visualizer, AND a lot of time in the sequencer. Try things in the sequencer, then look at how they appear in the animator. And again, KISS and have the most fun you can.
  13. Tweak: For future reference, an individual resistor has no directionality. It may be soldered into a circuit in either direction, and will function the same. The color code can run in either direction. As mentioned above, a resistor pak is different because it has multiple resistors using a common lead for one leg. Similarly, a ceramic capacitor can be placed in either diection. Compnents to watch out for include diodes and electrolytic capacitors. These devices are "polarized" -- that is to say they have a positive lead and a negative lead, and they MUST be placed correctly. In your case, as TJ suggested, I suspect the issue is a problematic triac on Channel 15. Follow his advice. And, welcome to the insanity.
  14. From a fellow Kentuckian, welcome to thie insanity called LightORama. Most people refer to the "poles with the star" as Firesticks. Not all are topped with a star, though that does seem to be the most common topper. I don't have a good drummer boy silouhette, but try this: google "drummer boy", then select "Images". You should see many items you could use as a basis for this. Matter of fact, it appears there's a good one fairly early in the list. You can save this to your computer, enlarge it and print it. Another option: consider a light-up blowmold decoration. Go to ebay.com and search for "drummer boy blowmold". Not a silouhette, and it takes up a channel (or more) to control it, but it really is neat and is very functional for a lot of Christmas tunes.
  15. A boot on a Cat5 cable is the plastic "hood" that goes around the connector (kind of like the "boot" around the base of a stick shift in a car). It supposedly protects the connector from the "elements" -- dirt, debris, and/or spilt coffee on a long night of sequencing. The problems are: 1) the female connectors on the LOR circuit board have little room around them. The boot makes it even tighter, so unplugging the cable can be a little more difficult. 2) the lands (circuit board traces) to the female connector on the LOR circuit board can be a bit fragile. The boot around the male connector makes it a little difficult to hold the release tab down when unplugging the connector. In some cases this has been known to cause the female connector to break free from the board, ripping up the lands as it goes. I haven't had this happen, but others have. It is best to simply remove the boot from any Cat5 connectors with a utility knife. Check this link for proof positive: http://forums.lightorama.com/index.php?/topic/22216-broken-cat5-ports/
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